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6/11/2008 9:59:31 AM EDT
I recently started reloading all of the brass I've saved up over the past few years.  Have never reloaded for an AR before.  Most of the brass is LC or Win headstamped, and it appears as though the primer pockets are crimped.  However, I have a ton of #41 primers that I bought years ago made by Blount Industries.  These primers work in my Lee hand priming tool without any problems whatsoever as far as priming the crimped brass.  I haven't tried any other brands of primers, but I'm wondering  if perhaps primers designed for 5.56/#41 are a little smaller than regular .223 srp?  I was surprised that the primer pockets didn't have to be reamed.  Any one had this experience?  BTW I'm not even sure if this brand of primer can be obtained anymore.  Thanks.
6/11/2008 7:04:19 AM EDT
[#1]
ar15.com/forums/forum.html?b=6&f=42

good luck
6/11/2008 8:55:24 AM EDT
[#2]
A lot of times LC 5.56 brass that is crimped will reprime without reaming or swaging and I use WSR primers.
6/11/2008 9:05:34 AM EDT
[#3]
yeah, LC for the most part does not need to be reamed but that FC can be a bitch.
6/11/2008 10:21:02 AM EDT
[#4]
As far as I know..........Boxer primers are made to a "size spec." usually,  large or small (rifle or pistol).    That way, it's just easier to deal with.  Yes, there can be some tiny variation and lot to lot variations.  
___________________  

But, that being said, I doubt that your CCI #41s were made to a different "size spec." within the brand.
___________________

Side by Side/ Brand against Brand……Comparison of Measurements

www.jamescalhoon.com/primers_and_pressure.php

___________________

More Primer Measurements

www.radomski.us/njhp/cart_tech.htm

___________________

Anyway......I've "felt differences" while seating different brands of primers with my LEE auto prime (hand tool).  You want your primers to be tight in their primer pocket........that's "good enough."  

You want to go a step further.......perhaps someone will invent/market a reasonably priced strain gauge attachment to a primer seater tool?  But, once it's in there.......you got two choices.   Continue or not.

ME.......I'll accept that my primer was seated with enough force.  And, that's "good enough" for me.

____________________

For me........military primer pocket crimps, needs to be "correctly" reamed or swaged.  Yes, on some cases, when I've used a reamer, I have cut off more brass (and some less).  Sometimes, the amouint of crimp, varies.  Though, once done, it doesn't need to be done again.  

Commercial cases (for the most part) need no special primer pocket treatment.

Aloha, Mark






6/11/2008 11:25:00 AM EDT
[#5]
height=8
Quoted:
As far as I know..........Boxer primers are made to a "size spec." usually,  large or small (rifle or pistol).    That way, it's just easier to deal with.  Yes, there can be some tiny variation and lot to lot variations.  
___________________  

But, that being said, I doubt that your CCI #41s were made to a different "size spec." within the brand.
___________________

Side by Side/ Brand against Brand……Comparison of Measurements

www.jamescalhoon.com/primers_and_pressure.php

___________________

More Primer Measurements

www.radomski.us/njhp/cart_tech.htm

___________________

Anyway......I've "felt differences" while seating different brands of primers with my LEE auto prime (hand tool).  You want your primers to be tight in their primer pocket........that's "good enough."  

You want to go a step further.......perhaps someone will invent/market a reasonably priced strain gauge attachment to a primer seater tool?  But, once it's in there.......you got two choices.   Continue or not.

ME.......I'll accept that my primer was seated with enough force.  And, that's "good enough" for me.

____________________

For me........military primer pocket crimps, needs to be "correctly" reamed or swaged.  Yes, on some cases, when I've used a reamer, I have cut off more brass (and some less).  Sometimes, the amouint of crimp, varies.  Though, once done, it doesn't need to be done again.  

Commercial cases (for the most part) need no special primer pocket treatment.

Aloha, Mark






Thanks for the help. My #41's are by Blount Industries.  I'd love to get more but I'm not even sure they are still in business.
6/11/2008 11:44:29 AM EDT
[#6]

Quoted:

Quoted:
As far as I know..........Boxer primers are made to a "size spec." usually,  large or small (rifle or pistol).    That way, it's just easier to deal with.  Yes, there can be some tiny variation and lot to lot variations.  
___________________  

But, that being said, I doubt that your CCI #41s were made to a different "size spec." within the brand.
___________________

Side by Side/ Brand against Brand……Comparison of Measurements

www.jamescalhoon.com/primers_and_pressure.php

___________________

More Primer Measurements

www.radomski.us/njhp/cart_tech.htm

___________________

Anyway......I've "felt differences" while seating different brands of primers with my LEE auto prime (hand tool).  You want your primers to be tight in their primer pocket........that's "good enough."  

You want to go a step further.......perhaps someone will invent/market a reasonably priced strain gauge attachment to a primer seater tool?  But, once it's in there.......you got two choices.   Continue or not.

ME.......I'll accept that my primer was seated with enough force.  And, that's "good enough" for me.

____________________

For me........military primer pocket crimps, needs to be "correctly" reamed or swaged.  Yes, on some cases, when I've used a reamer, I have cut off more brass (and some less).  Sometimes, the amouint of crimp, varies.  Though, once done, it doesn't need to be done again.  

Commercial cases (for the most part) need no special primer pocket treatment.

Aloha, Mark






Thanks for the help. My #41's are by Blount Industries.  I'd love to get more but I'm not even sure they are still in business.


You are looking for CCI primers.
6/13/2008 2:27:06 AM EDT
[#7]
Yes, Military casings are crimped to prevent primers from backing out and tying a weapon up when fired.  Dillon Precision makes a easy to use tool to remove the crimp.  Here's a link:  http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/25263/catid/8/Super_Swage_600
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