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Posted: 11/2/2012 6:14:51 AM EDT
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So I've inherited this 50 cal thompson center muzzle loader. Google seems to think it is a "hawkin" model. I know the basics, but as far as what type of powder, loading, and bullet type I don't know where to start, and I'm really wanting to get it sighted in and hunt with this thing this weekend.
How much powder, what type, and what bullet type should I pick up for taking white tail. In the past I've just fire a few round balls with being told what powder amounts to put in and it was years ago. Thanks in advance |
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I use the pre-measured and formed powder charges, like triple 7's. They are usually in 50gr increments...use 2 for most applications. They can also be found in 30gr and 60gr sizes.
They make for faster reloading too... I've had really good luck with Hornady's XTP and FTX sabots. Hodgdon Muzzle loading Manual |
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You will be better off using regular black powder in a sidelock than the pellets. The BP substitutes do not ignite as reliably in a caplock or flintlock. They are designed with inlines in mind as well as BP pistols. A .50 can use either FFg or FFFg powder. Don't start with a max load. That will probably shoot very well with 70gr, and remember BP is measured by volume, not weight. That rifle probably has a 1 in 48" twist rate. It will shoot roundballs or something like the TC ballet. The roundballs require a patch and a lube for use in a BP muzzleloader. Do not use petroleum based oils or lubes in the muzzleloader. It combines with the fouling and makes a sludgy mess. Stick with traditional lubes. Even a spit patch is good, but there are good commercial lubes and even better ones you make yourself. You just remove the tenons and pull the barrel and clean it with water. There is a technique where you put the breech end in a bucket of water. Then using the cleaning rod push a patch down the bore. When you pull the patch back it pumps water up through the bore. Repeat and change to clean water until the patch comes out clean. Lube the bore with a BP lube. Please do a lot of reading before taking it out to shoot. |
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Quoted:
You will be better off using regular black powder in a sidelock than the pellets. The BP substitutes do not ignite as reliably in a caplock or flintlock. They are designed with inlines in mind as well as BP pistols. A .50 can use either FFg or FFFg powder. Don't start with a max load. That will probably shoot very well with 70gr, and remember BP is measured by volume, not weight. That rifle probably has a 1 in 48" twist rate. It will shoot roundballs or something like the TC ballet. The roundballs require a patch and a lube for use in a BP muzzleloader. Do not use petroleum based oils or lubes in the muzzleloader. It combines with the fouling and makes a sludgy mess. Stick with traditional lubes. Even a spit patch is good, but there are good commercial lubes and even better ones you make yourself. You just remove the tenons and pull the barrel and clean it with water. There is a technique where you put the breech end in a bucket of water. Then using the cleaning rod push a patch down the bore. When you pull the patch back it pumps water up through the bore. Repeat and change to clean water until the patch comes out clean. Lube the bore with a BP lube. Please do a lot of reading before taking it out to shoot. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Perfect. I have a TC Hawken in 1-48, I use a .490 RB and a .015 patch. 60-70grs of black powder is a good starting load and you can work up to your most accurate load, it should be 80-100grs+/-. Get a powder measure. 
A short "starter stick". You need a "possibles bag" to carry all the shit needed. 
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| In the Hodgdons manual I have, Layne Simpson states that 777 pellets need a 209primer instead of #11 cap. He also points out that 777 is less dense than BP. Hodgdon recommends reducing charges 15 %. Speer 490-gr RB/ .020 Ox-yoke patch 70 grs. by volume of FFG 777 powder 1744 fps- same load w/100 grs gets1988. |
| My Hawken with 1in48" twist works great with 50gr fffg Pyrodex .490 ball and .018 patch. Although, as i said in another thread, after a couple of shots it gets difficult to seat the ball. I'm no expert as i'm new to it as well, but my rifle really liked that load. With ffg powder, i was told to go up to 60gr to start. |
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MAKE SURE THAT INHERITED MUZZLELOADING RIFLE IS UNLOADED BEFORE YOU FIRE IT!
You'd be surprised at how many used muzzleloaders still contain a charge. They're not easily unloaded, so for centuries up to the present day people have tended to leave them loaded. Put the ramrod down the barrel, Mark where it stops with a piece of tape. Remove the ramrod from the bore and lay it aside the barrel. If there is a large gap between the end of the rod and the back of the barrel, it's likely loaded. If loaded, you can try to fire out the load or have a gunsmith remove it. |
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