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Posted: 12/2/2013 4:26:58 AM EDT
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Ok fellas ive done alot of research the past couple days on a new to me M1 super 90 with pistol grip. First let me say the gun runs extremely well with 00 Buck and slugs, pretty much anything high brass. It wont cycle 2 3/4 low brass bird shot and id like it to. It has the SureFire forend light, (I know I know lol)and a velcro side saddle along with a Nordic +2 extension ( weight issues on an inertia gun). As of now its a fine weapon and it sits in the squad with me as i right this (loaded with 00 Buck and Slugs in the Side Saddle all rounds extensively tested and run well).
Gun has been shot by previous owner but not sure how much, it was gummed up a bit and ive been shooting it incase the "break in" is the reason for the cycling Id love to be able to shoot birdshot also with all my stuff still on it. The gun is clean and lubed. I guess before i take off the surefire and i clean the recoil spring, i was looking at the 25% reducedrecoil spring from Wolff. My question is if i install the spring is it probable that itll cycle 2 3/4 low brass birdshot? And if it does and i keep it installed will running a mixture of the cheapo low brass bird shot and the high brass reg power buck shot and slugs ruin the gun in time bc of the reduced recoil spring + heavier loads ? An 870 is a fine weapon and has its place so please dont sugest that, id really love to get this gun to cycle all loads. Any personal experiences with the weapon system or knowledge of the reduced springs is greatly appreciated. Thanks |
| The M1S90 is a great shotgun but the inertia system is affected when you add extra weight to the gun ( Surefire foreend, sidesaddle, etc.) and will not operate reliably with lighter loads. I have the same setup as you and I replaced the recoil spring with the reduced power recoil spring and it shoots just about anything. I have not seen any damage from shooting buckshot and slug but I stay away from the very high power rounds. If you want it to reliably shoot low brass, go for thelighter spring, just keep that in mind when selecting other ammo. |
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"but I stay away from the very high power rounds" With that being said whats considered very high power? Im sure 3 inch magnum turkey rounds are out,but in your estimation would be the max velocity? Also do you have a lot of buck and slugs through her with the reduced set up? Just tryin to get a little idea!!!! |
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I had the same set up on my M1S90. Before you change out the springs, I would suggest the following:
1. Change the ammo on the low powered stuff. My M1S90 wouldn't cycle winchester, but it would cycle remington. 2. Can you decribe the malfunction? Is it a FTF, FTE? Since the Benelli is recoil operated, it could be "limp wristed" very similar to a pistol. |
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The first thing I would do is put on the original handguard and try and shoot the reduced loads (birdshot) and see if it is reliable with the factory spring. The weight of the surefire foreend makes a huge difference in reliability. If the gun doesn't have a fair amount of rounds through it, it might just take some breaking in with some heavy loads. Make sure to oil the tail / plunger and the lugs on the bolt, that always helps. If you can't get it to run the light loads with the surefire foreend, you will have to go to the reduced power spring.
When you swap the spring, the tube probably has lock tite on it and will probab;ly require a little heat to make it easier to unscrew. I don't have any set velocity recomendations, but definitely stay away from 3" shells and try an find lower power buck and slug. I have shot a lot of buck shot and slug ( mostly Winchester Ranger and Federal LE - both reduced and full power loads and have seen no signs of damage. The M1S90 is a blast to shoot light low brass loads with. Good luck and I hope you get it running. |
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You cannot have it both ways. There is no miracle spring for the M1 that will work well with everything. The various recoil spring rates reflect a willingness and discipline to use a particular type of ammo exclusively. The "Field" spring will allow you to shoot low-power loads reliably, but the gun will batter itself (and you) if you use full-power loads. Conversely, the "Tactical" spring gives you reliable performance with tactical loads without damaging the gun, but is too strong to handle field loads reliably.
If you are using the M1 for defensive/duty use, then stick with the tactical spring that came with the gun or replace it with a new tactical spring. As stated, it is also advisable to remove the surefire forend and the sidesaddle. There are better, lighter flashlights out there that do not add the weight of a whole forend assembly and better ways to carry extra ammo. One of the biggest contributors to unreliability in the M1 is a dirty recoil spring tube. And you don't have to shoot a lot to get it dirty enough to impede smooth operation. Storing a used M1 vertically will cause dirty oil to migrate down into the tube, carrying all the residue with it. It will gum up the tube and bind the spring. Clean the inside of the tube thoroughly, lightly oil it, then store it muzzle down if possible. Cleaning it alone will bring a smile to your face when you reassemble and work the action, it'll run noticeably smoother and easier. ETA: If you study the differences between the M1/M2 and the M4, you'll see where the M1/M2 is deficient. You can then configure accordingly. |
| Hit it on the head, the low brass was 2 3/4 no.7 Winchester bird shot. Ill clean the tube and spring remembering to keep it stored muzzle down at home, but it sits sideways in the rack. Maybe ill try some other brands of low brass. If its only winchester ill live, but if after a cleaning and still no cycling ill start taking things off. Maybe use a "butt cuff" for extra ammo and put the a stock forend on. I guess my last step will be to swap the spring intirely. Recoil i dont think will be too much of an issue bc of my armor. Hell i shot 3 inch turkey mag loads the full 7 shots consecutively and it wasnt the worst thing ever because of my body armor absorbing some impact. Keep you guys posted and thanks for the informative replies!! |
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Quoted:
Hit it on the head, the low brass was 2 3/4 no.7 Winchester bird shot. Ill clean the tube and spring remembering to keep it stored muzzle down at home, but it sits sideways in the rack. Maybe ill try some other brands of low brass. If its only winchester ill live, but if after a cleaning and still no cycling ill start taking things off. Maybe use a "butt cuff" for extra ammo and put the a stock forend on. I guess my last step will be to swap the spring intirely. Recoil i dont think will be too much of an issue bc of my armor. Hell i shot 3 inch turkey mag loads the full 7 shots consecutively and it wasnt the worst thing ever because of my body armor absorbing some impact. Keep you guys posted and thanks for the informative replies!! Let me guess….the Winchester "Universal" or promo load ammo with the silver metal rim and ribbed plastic hull? That stuff will not cycle in a single shot. If that’s it try some Winchester AA, Remington Nitor or even the Federal 100 round packs from Wal~Mart. Stick with loads at 1145 fps or faster and 1 1/8 oz. shot (or more) then report back to us. |
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I bought a cheap, beat M1 Super 90 and it has been 100% reliable with everything I have fed it with a Surefire light on it. But, as I said, it is a beat LE trade in. The 'Dura-coat' finish the previous owner claimed to have done is peeling off. I really want to get it refinished, but it runs so well and I would hate to mess with it.
As mentioned above, break it in properly by shooting it with loads that work and clean it well. Also try other brands of shells. Winchester promo loads are know for causing problems in semi-auto shotguns. I have a Saiga-20 that wouldn't cycle it at all. But it would run Estate field loads which wasn't much more money. |
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Believe it or not, my M1S90 runs WalMart target loads with the Wolf extra power spring. Mine has the "unreliable" pistol grip installed too. I would ditch the sidesaddle and the forend. Depending on the car mount, you might be better off with the BLAM1 mount and something like an X300. That's how mine is set up and it runs very well with even the cheap, light, bulk WalMart loads. |
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