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Posted: 1/11/2013 5:12:03 PM EDT
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So I'm about to build a bench I have a design in mind. My question is about finishing the bench top. I want to stain the top. I was looking at polyacrilic finish. Will that be a suitable barrier to oils and solvents? Is there a better option for finishing the top. Oh yeah I have decided on plywood for my top.
Thanks for the help |
| I used the minwax stuff that is a stain and poly in one. I had it left over from another project i did, and I liked it so well i used it on my bench top. Sand really good, apply first coat, let dry, sand with 0000 steel wool, apply second coat, let dry. Makes a nice glossy finish that is impervious to anything I've put on it. |
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Check out Kraftkote bar and table top resin. Its a 2 part system (resin & hardener) thats pretty easy to work with and dries hard as a rock & smooth as glass. If you decide to go this route make sure you order enough as you only get 1 shot at the pour. Also, they sell a spray that you can mist onto the resin as it is hardening to elminate air bubbles that leak up from the porous wood............don't waste your money on that crap. It dimples the finish. Instead, everytime you see a bubble...gently exhale your breath onto it. The carbon dioxide in your breath somehow pops the bubble and leaves the finish smooth. If you decide to go that route feel free to message me and I can give you a bunch of pointers. I did my bar and it came out amazing.
http://www.klockit.com/products/dept-94__sku-GGGHH.html |
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After stain is dry, I use Polyurethane. When first coat dries, lightly sand with 220 grit to knock off "whiskers". Wipe off dust, and second coat of polyurethane. When second coat dries, lightly sand with 220 grit to knock off the rest of the "whiskers". Wipe off dust, and third and last coat of polyurethane.  How I finished the shelf my scale sits on.
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The kraftkote looks pretty cool. But since I have a couple of responses that polyurethane is suitable I think I'm going to go the cheaper route on my first attempt.
I'm going to go practical and essentially disposable for my temporary living situation. I got a lot of great ideas from the bench thread here. Some of the guys here have some serious carpentry skills and others are just ingenious. Thanks for the input guys. |
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Quoted:
After stain is dry, I use Polyurethane. When first coat dries, lightly sand with 220 grit to knock off "whiskers". Wipe off dust, and second coat of polyurethane. When second coat dries, lightly sand with 220 grit to knock off the rest of the "whiskers". Wipe off dust, and third and last coat of polyurethane. How I finished the shelf my scale sits on. BTW.... if you use the "paper" side of the sandpaper to "knock down the whiskers" ( on the final / finish coat ) you will find it works better than the "grit" side. The paper side will burnish off the "whiskers" without scratching finish.... so no need for another coat to hide sanding scratches. And to the OP , steer clear of waterbourne finishes for your bench top, even a "sweating".glass with iced water can easily leave a water ring.... at the very least, use a polyurthane, the "bartop finish" mentioned is very good stuff. Its a little bit more of a pita, but .... think of all the bartops you have seen... hardly a mark on them. |
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My bench's are always topped with Melamine. You can get it at Home Depot of Lowes. Its MDF that has the same two part resin that is used for making Formica counter tops, but is applied directly to the MDF board. Completely impervious to damn near anything you can spill on it. The best part for me it, once its all scratched up, you can just replace the top or flip it over (both sides are coated).
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