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Posted: 1/30/2010 8:55:07 AM EDT
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Do you guys use bore sighters to get your scopes and optics lined up? I bought one awhile back that you were supposed to stick down the barrel and then line up the laser dot w/ the scope, but it was a POS. It wouldn't fit down the barrel of my AR far enough, so it sagged and the laser was so crappy I had to go out at night when it was pitch black to do it.
It seems like a good idea and a more accurate, faster and easier way to get on target. So what have you used and how did it work? I'm thinking about trying the ones that look like unfired rounds that actually go in the chamber. Anybody tried those? |
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Quoted:
Do you guys use bore sighters to get your scopes and optics lined up? I bought one awhile back that you were supposed to stick down the barrel and then line up the laser dot w/ the scope, but it was a POS. It wouldn't fit down the barrel of my AR far enough, so it sagged and the laser was so crappy I had to go out at night when it was pitch black to do it. It seems like a good idea and a more accurate, faster and easier way to get on target. So what have you used and how did it work? I'm thinking about trying the ones that look like unfired rounds that actually go in the chamber. Anybody tried those? Sitemark's... Got 'em in 20ga, 9mm, .223, .308 and .40 for my 10mm. I really like these lasers. They are a PITA to keep together as the batteries need to be removed every time and stored (they're small and get lost easily) but otherwise, if you remember not to let the action slam closed on them, these bore sights will get you very close to DEAD ON before you fire a shot. Do what I did: Buy just one in your favorite cal and try it out. You'll add more later 
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| I've never found any boresighting devices that were worth my time messing with them. If I'm using an action that allows it, I'll set the rifle, or upper assembly in a cradle or on sand bags with the bolt removed and point it so that I can look through the barrel at an aiming point 25 meters away, and adjust the scope until it is aimed at what I see looking through the barrel. Then, I assemble the rifle and zero for 25 meters. This should only take a few rounds. THen, I move the target out to 100m, and zero for about 2 inches hight with most rifle calibers. Then I move the target out to 200m and set my zero for dead-on. Unfortunately, I rarely get to go to a range with more than 200m capability. I wish my government would spend my tax money on opening up 600-1000m public rifle ranges across this nation instead of all of the other worthless crap they spend it on. |
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I use one of those Leupold magnetic mirror boresighter things......do not know how it works just stick on the muzzle with the thing reasonably straight and line up the vertical crosshair and click to it and shoot.It is always about two inches or less from point of aim at 50 yards.When I remove a scope to upgrade or whatever I put it on and take note of position in windage/elevation in the sighter and swap scope out and return to those settings and is usually within an inch each way.
I take to silhouette matches in my tool kit and the other older shooters use it and shake their head after it works for them |
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Do you guys use bore sighters to get your scopes and optics lined up? ......... .......... So what have you used and how did it work? I use a cardboard box, a paper target (with 1" squares on it) and a box of ammunition. I place the box (with target attached) 25 yards from my firing bench & fire one carefully aimed round at the bulls eye (center of the target). Then for every inch I need to adjust the impact of the round, I adjust the scope (or sights) the equivalent of 4" worth of movement (4 moa). Usually after 3 - 4 rounds, I am within an inch of the bulls eye. I then move the target out to 100 yards and finish zeroing the rifle with 3 shot groups. For big game hunting rifles, I like to be zeroed about 2&1/2" high at 100 yards. I like to zero ARs so they are dead on at 40 or 50 yards (an inch or two high at 100 yards?). I have done this on over a dozen rifles and it has never taken me more than a box of ammo (20 rounds) to sight in a rifle. If you use an 18"x18" paper target, the rounds should hit on the target at 25 yards (or your scope will probably not have enough adjustment to zero the rifle). If you do not hit paper at 25 yards, move the box (5 or 10 yards) closer and try again. I have never understood why people buy bore sighting tools? |
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I use one of those Leupold magnetic mirror boresighter things......do not know how it works just stick on the muzzle with the thing reasonably straight and line up the vertical crosshair and click to it and shoot.It is always about two inches or less from point of aim at 50 yards.When I remove a scope to upgrade or whatever I put it on and take note of position in windage/elevation in the sighter and swap scope out and return to those settings and is usually within an inch each way. I take to silhouette matches in my tool kit and the other older shooters use it and shake their head after it works for them I like this style of bore sighter instead of the laser versions. You don't have to be out on the range with a target set up to bore sight. You can do it at home before you leave. You also don't need multiple units for various cartridges. We use a Simmons kit with various arbors for each caliber. It places a sighting chart in front of the scope and you adjust to center. This almost always gets within 3 inches at 100 yards. You can also use it to adjust your zero at various ranges. |
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I have never understood why people buy bore sighting tools? Less time and ammo wasted to sight in. It takes you up to 20 rounds. Generally, it takes me about 3, maybe 5. Bore sight at home. Take gun to range. Fire 1 test shot, adjust as needed. Then fine tune with a couple more shots. We have people come in all the time asking us to bore sight a gun AFTER they've shot 2 boxes of ammo and can't get the gun zeroed.... 
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I got a laser boresighter at Cabelas. It was the type you stick in the end of the barrel. The "sag" problem is remedied by tiny caliber-specific spacer rings that fit around the rear "stem", so it holds it secure and centered in the bore. It works on everything from .22 to .50BMG, so it saves me money getting the big .50 on paper (~$4.00/rd). If you have a big enough house or apartment, they include directions for short distance sighting-in. If you get your rifle well secured, you can easily lie behind your gun and dial your scope or red dot in so that it only takes a few rounds to get it on target when you finally do get to the range. I have four ARs, a .50BMG, and a 10-22, all with different optics, so it's a big help for me, cost-wise. If you have only one optic-equipped gun, you might be better off doing it with live fire. |
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Quoted: I have never understood why people buy bore sighting tools? Sometimes you have a grass backstop, and you can't see where your rounds go if they're not on paper. It just gives you a good starting point to work from, and wastes less ammo. If you have one that you use over a dozen rifles, think of all the ammo you've saved, especially if you shoot a box per gun like you mentioned. |
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I have never understood why people buy bore sighting tools? Sometimes you have a grass backstop, and you can't see where your rounds go if they're not on paper. It just gives you a good starting point to work from, and wastes less ammo. If you have one that you use over a dozen rifles, think of all the ammo you've saved, especially if you shoot a box per gun like you mentioned. Ok, I guess I live in a different world than the rest of you do. I move the target in to 25 yards so that the first round is on the paper. It usually takes me 3 to 4 rounds to adjust the scope so I am hitting the bull’s eye (closer than a bore sight will get you). Then I move the target out to 100 yards for fine adjustment with 3 or 5 shot groups (and finish shooting the box of ammo). There has only been one time that the first round was not on the paper, so I moved the box in to 15 yards to get it on paper. The one time the first round was not on paper at 25 yards, there was not enough adjustment in the scope to allow the rifle to be zeroed. Prior to every hunting season (or class), I take my rifle out and fire at least one box of ammo off a bench to make sure it is still zeroed. The idea that somebody would spent money on a bore sight so they would only have to shoot a couple of rounds out of their new toy never entered my mind. |
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I have never understood why people buy bore sighting tools? Less time and ammo wasted to sight in. It takes you up to 20 rounds. Generally, it takes me about 3, maybe 5. Bore sight at home. Take gun to range. Fire 1 test shot, adjust as needed. Then fine tune with a couple more shots. We have people come in all the time asking us to bore sight a gun AFTER they've shot 2 boxes of ammo and can't get the gun zeroed.... I’ve seen this at the range also. If I need the bay they are in or am in a kind/giving mood, I’ll say: “Do you want some help?” If they want my help, I move the target in to 25 yards and have them fire one round and adjust their rifle from there. I have always been able to get them on the bull’s eye (equivalent of bore sighted) within 3 or 4 rounds, provide they still had 3 or 4 rounds left when I offered to help. |
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Quoted: It's not about being right or wrong, it's just a different method. It's worth it to some people to have a quick and easy method of zeroing. Perhaps they have limited ammo or time, perhaps they have several guns to do, or maybe their rounds are expensive and they don't want to shoot more than they have to. There are tons of reasons to use one. If you don't, that's fine, but there's no need to be condescending to those who do. Quoted: Quoted: I have never understood why people buy bore sighting tools? Sometimes you have a grass backstop, and you can't see where your rounds go if they're not on paper. It just gives you a good starting point to work from, and wastes less ammo. If you have one that you use over a dozen rifles, think of all the ammo you've saved, especially if you shoot a box per gun like you mentioned. Ok, I guess I live in a different world than the rest of you do. I move the target in to 25 yards so that the first round is on the paper. It usually takes me 3 to 4 rounds to adjust the scope so I am hitting the bull’s eye (closer than a bore sight will get you). Then I move the target out to 100 yards for fine adjustment with 3 or 5 shot groups (and finish shooting the box of ammo). There has only been one time that the first round was not on the paper, so I moved the box in to 15 yards to get it on paper. The one time the first round was not on paper at 25 yards, there was not enough adjustment in the scope to allow the rifle to be zeroed. Prior to every hunting season (or class), I take my rifle out and fire at least one box of ammo off a bench to make sure it is still zeroed. The idea that somebody would spent money on a bore sight so they would only have to shoot a couple of rounds out of their new toy never entered my mind. |
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The idea that somebody would spent money on a bore sight so they would only have to shoot a couple of rounds out of their new toy never entered my mind. It's not so much that you only have to shoot a couple rounds before you go home. It's that you only shoot a couple rounds to get zeroed. You're not wasting as many rounds on shots that are several inches off before you get them centered. There's no sense using 10-15 rounds to zero a gun when you can bore sight first, and save the ammo for actual target shooting or hunting. A bore sighting kit will pay for itself in 4-5 uses, even less on some of the bigger calibers. |
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Quoted: I've never found any boresighting devices that were worth my time messing with them. If I'm using an action that allows it, I'll set the rifle, or upper assembly in a cradle or on sand bags with the bolt removed and point it so that I can look through the barrel at an aiming point 25 meters away, and adjust the scope until it is aimed at what I see looking through the barrel. Then, I assemble the rifle and zero for 25 meters. This should only take a few rounds. THen, I move the target out to 100m, and zero for about 2 inches hight with most rifle calibers. Then I move the target out to 200m and set my zero for dead-on. Unfortunately, I rarely get to go to a range with more than 200m capability. I wish my government would spend my tax money on opening up 600-1000m public rifle ranges across this nation instead of all of the other worthless crap they spend it on. I do something similar to the procedure above. I make up some lame excuse for "Her Majesty" and head off to the range.  Staple a 3'x3' piece of butcher paper up on a 50 yard stand(no 25yd line) Staple a standard target in the middle of the butcher paper. Put my gun in my shooting cradle(for lack of a better term). Look down the bore at the target, adjust the scope to match. Walk the holes to the target. Usually takes five or six shots to get it where I want it. Then sight in at the 100 and 200 yard lines to get a happy medium. I had to use this method when I was poverty stricken. It still works for me quite well. ZM |
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I like chambered laser bore sighters. I have them in 9mm, .223, and .308.
I swap optics around, and these get me on paper at 50 yards immediately and sometimes within 3 inches of bullseye which isn't bad. I don't like to waste ammo, especially expensive ammo. If you shop you can find them at $25 apiece, and saves me a lot of aggravation. ETA: I don't like having guns in the house that are not close to on target so that they could be used immediately with a reasonable chance of hitting the target. Sometimes I don't get to go to the range for a few days after mounting an optic. |
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