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Posted: 9/18/2008 4:31:35 PM EDT
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So, my next project gun is going to be a M1A. What is my best bet, cost wise, for building one? 1. A parts kit and then finding a receiver. 2. Bit by bit. 3. Finding a relatively inexpensive gun and just modifying it to my liking. Thanks for the help. ETA: I already have a GI fiberglass stock. 
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Why fuck up a perfectly good rifle?
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All are very good suggestions, and I have bought parts and built them up, bought safe queens and I am still aquiring, or trying to. What exactly do you want or interests you, that will really dictate what the best way to purchase is.... Standard or NM 22", Bush/ Scout 18.5" or maybe even a 16" Socom....? |
The Norinco and Poly Tech are your best value as is and they are excellent to build up on. I have two 22.0" builds on Poly Tech receivers. two 18.0" builds on Norinco receivers and I'm working on a 16.25" build on a Norinco receiver. |
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Alright, I've worked on a lot of ARs and had barrels modified (cut to length) many times--it is feasible and safe to do this with a M1A? Or is it required that I find a 18.5 inch barrel? If I can just cut down (properly, don't worry) a standard length barrel, what twist is best? |
if "next project gun is going to be an M1A" means it's your first M1A, I would recommend getting the inexpensive rifle, shooting it, and determining what you like/don't like about it. instead of maybe getting a parts kit or building gradually what you *think* you'll like and finding out you'd rather have a different barrel length, etc. it's how I built mine (which was also my first). |
it isn't bad, it's like doing an AR in that if you have the proper tools, and someone show you, then do it a time or 2, there's not much to it (as long as your barrel times out to the receiver properly, and you don't have to do anything to the barrel shoulder). I have a Fed Ord rifle that I put a TRW barrel on, and it timed out perfectly, and the sight alignment is good, it wasn't too bad of a job. the first time, a guy helped me, I did it by myself the 2nd time (I blasted and refinished the receiver, yes I should have done it before installing the barrel to begin with, but stuff came up). I put in a TRW bolt and it headspaced properly. |
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Find an excellent stock. Find the best trigger group possible. Buy an assembled upper exactly how you want it built, receiver/barrel and all USGI parts.  Mine upper came from Jon Wolfe: LRB M-14S/ Smith Enterprises Standard Contour Barrel, HR/USGI Parts and an old HR trigger he "tuned" to perfection. FH with Bayo Lug, and Hawk's dummy selector button and it's my "Retro M-14" look-alike. Not Cheap...but well worth the expense which was spread over several months. |
| 103, do what I did with my AR. Shoot a lot of other people's stuff, develop a wide experience curve with the system, then buy the highest quality parts your budget can stand and only buy once. Only the rich can afford to buy twice or three times. I own one completed AR so far. It is perfectly tuned to my preferences and prejudices. My M14 will be the same. |
Thanks. I agree with you. Problem is that I don't have any friends with M1As! I'm going to ask around, though. |
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I may as well ask this in this thread. I had to very lightly sand the GI stock (someone had started painting it, apparently, and it had some random bad spots) and I would like to bring it back to its original color. What color is closest to the original? ETA: I know I stated as much in my first post, but I'm talking about the fiberglass stock. |
The color is molded into the fiberglass, give it a rub with a rag with some light oil on it, you should see the original color. I would beadblast it if you could, that would give a nice uniform finish. |
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Thanks for the help, guys. I'm likely going to go with the buy-a-rifle option, learn it well, shoot it a lot (money permitting, heh), and modify it as needed. Probably going to suck it up and use some good money and buy a LRB. For my fiberglass stock, though, I'd like to install one of the rubber butt plate/pads. Where can I get these? And does it matter that I have no butt plate mounting hardware? ETA: Still considering SAI for the simple fact that it's really hard for me to justify spending the extra $1000 on a LRB even though I understand the difference in quality. |
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Well, I decided to go SAI and got a scout. I like it and everything looks great inside and out. I took the rail off the barrel for the time being (until I can afford a scout scope) and put a GI hand guard on. I also put a surplus butt plate on and replaced the SAI flash hider with a GI-type minus the bayo lug. Also, the trigger/hammer assy is marked TRW, so I guess it's GI?  ETA: Dang, nevermind. The housing is stamped TRW, but the hammer (at least) is stamped SA. |
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103, there was word that SAI was faking USGI manufacture marks on parts like bolts and operating rods. My source was pretty solid for that, but you might want to have your GI parts looked over by someone competent to know what you've really got. Did you go new or used? Good luck with it! |
Faking parts or marking parts in a manner that confuses the average gun guy? From what I've seen, SAI does mark their parts in a manner similar to that of the original government SA, but is sufficiently different in that a well informed person can tell the difference. 103, Having a mix of USGI parts in a trigger group is not unexpected. In fact, from the commercial trigger groups I've seen, the hammers are not marked at all, so I suspect the hammer is USGI. If you want to collect markings and start a new thread, people can tell you what they are. |
 I went with the inexpensive rifle then upgrade as you go route. Got a good deal on the rifle from a member here, and shot the heck out of it while I researched and figured out what I wanted. Then I collected the parts and sent it off to be re barreled and bedded into a McMillan stock. And yes, it does shoot so log as I do my part.   Thats prone with a sling, none of that bench shit for me.  The flyer up top was me. Called it high as soon as I broke it.
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