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Posted: 11/12/2010 7:59:52 PM EDT
I had been looking for some more 30-30 brass, found 4 bags of 100 RP once fired at the last funshow. I bargained and got the 4 bags for $40. 
Sorted through the bags of brass, picked out the bad cases, and added what I had. So I started with 520 cases. Goal is 500 loaded rounds. Cases are now sized and delubed, used plain corn cob for that. Paper card keeps track of what step this batch of brass is during case prep. Another past funshow find, 2 boxes of Sierra 150 gr FP, 3 boxes of Speer 150 gr FP, jug of BLC2 and my 30-30 dies. 
Time to clean primer pockets, 2 cases on the bottom right have cleaned PP's, other cases in loading block still dirty. 
Trimming, no 30-30 set up for my Giruad, had to go old school. I trimmed to 2.030. Very important to trim 30-30 to the same length. It will pay dividends during bullet seating and crimping. 
Priming time, 300 done and 200 left to prime. Time to reload the primer tube for my Rockchucker. I get good results priming on the Rockchucker, I tried hand primers, don't like them, it's just me and 30 + years of doing it that way. 
Priming done. Have 6 cases left of the original extra 20 that survived case prep. 
I charged 100 cases at a time. I look down every case to ensure all powder charges are the same. No uncharged cases either. Throwing BLC2 (ball powder) from my Redding measure, I checked the charge every 100 cases. My powder measure throws ball powder exact, and I've been doing it awhile. It's a habit of mine to check the powder charge every time I change or fill a primer tube. Progressive or single stage loading. 
Seating bullets, set my seating die to seat to the top of the cannelure, die adjusted up so it won't crimp. 
Time to crimp, I use a Lee FCD (factory crimp die), next to seated rounds. I modify the nut on the FCD to make it a lock nut. 
Top round has been crimped, bottom uncrimped. 
Looking down on FCD. Bullet doesn't look centered, I had to take picture off center to get some flash to light the die. Notice the 4 slots in the crimping collet, how wide they are with the die at rest. 
Again, pic off center, took 4 pics to get one to come out this good. Bullet being crimped, handle of press all the way down. Slots in crimp collet, almost all the way closed, but still not all the way closed. A firm crimp. 
Finished loads. 500 more rounds of SHTF, hunting, Zombie killing ammo. 
Notice the round counts on my loading data cards. Only had 197 Sierra bullets, had 3 extra Speer bullets. That's the way it goes when you get a bargain bullet deal. 
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Quoted:
I hate the nuts on the Lee Dies. What type of set screw did you use––-regular, soft point or ??? And I assume that you made those OAK trays? Well you can probably drill and tap it for a Allen head screw but I just use a regular old RCBS or Lyman locking ring on mine. As far as cast bullets for the 30-30 I like the Lee 150 or 170 gr.RNFP GC bullet design. For plinking and small game loads I leave the GC off one coat of Alox before and after sizing and loaded on top of 8 grs. of Alliant Red Dot pushes the cast bullet just over 1200 fps. Groups pretty well at 50 yds with iron sight in the old Sav. 30-30 pump gun. 
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dryflash3
Thanks for the informative post. Have you cast any bullets for the 30-30 yet? I bought a LEE 312-160-2R mold to cast bullets for my girlfriend's Marlin 336 but haven't had a chance to do anything more. I want to load some powder-puff loads for her to try out. jonblack |
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I hate the nuts on the Lee Dies. What type of set screw did you use––-regular, soft point or ??? And I assume that you made those OAK trays? How I modify the Lee nut, drill with #21 drill bit tap with 10/32 tap, don't forget tapping lube, we are working with thin aluminum. use 10x32x 38 hex set screw. Uses same Allen wrench as any other die lock ring. I flatten a #6 lead shot, that is inserted between die threads and set screw. Lead conforms to threads on die, no buggered die threads. I do that with all my die lock nuts that use that style of locking, Hornady dies use a better system of locking. I could buy a real lock nut and put on the Lee dies, but I have a shop full of tools. I prefer to make or modify things instead of buy new. I'm kind of old school that way. OK, I like to tinker. My other hobby is woodworking, yes I made the red oak tray. Mostly used as a bullet tray, but handy for all sorts of things. |
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Quoted:
dryflash3 Thanks for the informative post. Have you cast any bullets for the 30-30 yet? I bought a LEE 312-160-2R mold to cast bullets for my girlfriend's Marlin 336 but haven't had a chance to do anything more. I want to load some powder-puff loads for her to try out. jonblack Yes, back in the 70's. Didn't have much luck. But I think I now know all the things I did wrong. 
I do want to retry cast bullets in 30-30 in the future. |
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Many years ago I came to the realization that I seem to always be finding 30-30 brass on the range. I started picking them up and putting them in a #10 coffee can. Told myself that as soon I filled the can that I would go out and buy a 30-30. Long story short I bought one last year, dies, as well as a Lee mold and Lee gas check setup.
Great thread. I have a desire to start shopping for 30-30 at the next fun show. |
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I prefer to roll crimp into any canalure. I believe it resists the bullet pulling from the case neck better than other crimping methods, which is a concern when using tubular magazines. Too heavy a crimp with the LFC die can actually swag down/ reduce the diameter of the bullet, with the result being a reduction in velocity and accuracy. Used within reason I'm sure its alright! JMOFWIW
You sure got those cases clean too! |
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I did crimp into the cannelure, at the top of the cannelure.
I have used roll crimp dies, taper crimp, and the Lee FCD. Not much difference in a roll crimp and the Lee FCD. I refuse to seat and crimp in the same die, so the roll crimp function in my Hornady seating die will remain unused. |
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The Lee 170gr RNFP-GC is super easy to group well from most any lever action. That far forward ogive helps it engage the rifling (or be crammed right into it).
My Win 94 just stacks them up like a nice bolt action group at 100yds. I have some sitting in my deer rifle waiting for my next morning in the stand. |
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dryflash, I too prefer the priming tubes that came with my Rockchucker. Nice Pictorial!
For those that load mixed headstamped cases for the 30-30, be watchful, as there is a wide discrepancy between the weight of different make of brass . Most of my R-P after trimming weigh around 130 -133 grains, same with some of the older WW Super headstamped cases. Some of the newer WW and Federals are in the 140 -145 grain range.So if the outside is sized to the same dimensions ,then the interior space is different. ie some brass has thicker sidewalls and pressures could be very different. I found this out checking velocity with my chronograph. Luckily I didn't damage a real nice lever action I've been carrying on in the family. I traded away all my Federals for this reason and just keep the R-P's and lighter WW's for now. This is important if you are up near the top of the loading densities. Sometimes I've weighed loaded rounds to make sure this is not a factor. |
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Quoted:
Nice writeup and pics! Reminds me of my early years when all I had was single stage equipment. Any reason not to load them up on your 550? Don't have the 550 conversion for 30-30. I normally don't load more than 50 to 100 at a time. Not a cartridge I shoot much anymore. Just fell into a good deal on the bullets and brass and went old school with the loading. |
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Dryflash,
I used to work home construction, and the trim carpenters used to leave a bunch of oak scrap, that was the size of a loading block laying around. Cut off pieces when they installed handrails on stairs. I collected them, and made loading blocks that look just like yours. I drilled them out about the right depth, but the bit I had wasn't flat, so I just punched it all the way through, and glued on a scrap piece of 1/4 in plywood. I made several for the different calibers I load. I too, prefer to make something with what I have, than buy it. Guess I'm just a cheapskate. Hey, it leaves more money to buy powder and bullets, so it can't be that bad. |
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Quoted:
Dryflash, I used to work home construction, and the trim carpenters used to leave a bunch of oak scrap, that was the size of a loading block laying around. Cut off pieces when they installed handrails on stairs. I collected them, and made loading blocks that look just like yours. I drilled them out about the right depth, but the bit I had wasn't flat, so I just punched it all the way through, and glued on a scrap piece of 1/4 in plywood. I made several for the different calibers I load. I too, prefer to make something with what I have, than buy it. Guess I'm just a cheapskate. Hey, it leaves more money to buy powder and bullets, so it can't be that bad. And you have something that very few have, and it's not made of plastic. |
It's been several years, but when we bought our Win. 94s I contacted "brassmanbrass.com" and was able to get 1000 once-fired all Winchester brass for <$100. The lady I talked to was VERY helpful, and the brass was beautiful stuff. 
Dryflash, your loads look GREAT! Tremendous thread. 
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Great thread dryflash3. I've had a hankerin for a lever gun lately and I'm leaning towards a 30-30. My girl (9) has been bugging me for something to shoot a deer with and a 30-30 would be a decent place to start.
Quoted:
Well you can probably drill and tap it for a Allen head screw but I just use a regular old RCBS or Lyman locking ring on mine. As far as cast bullets for the 30-30 I like the Lee 150 or 170 gr.RNFP GC bullet design. For plinking and small game loads I leave the GC off one coat of Alox before and after sizing and loaded on top of 8 grs. of Alliant Red Dot pushes the cast bullet just over 1200 fps. Groups pretty well at 50 yds with iron sight in the old Sav. 30-30 pump gun. http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j1/rhsikes/scan0001-1-1.jpg Thanks for this info. I'm saving it for the future when I do finally get my girl off the bb gun and 22. |
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