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Posted: 10/12/2009 3:47:47 PM EDT
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Anyone have problems resizing HXP brass I am trying but it feels like it wants to rip the press off the bench I am using the same resizing lube I use when I resize winchester brass and that is no problem and I shot it all from the same m-1 is HXP harder or have thicker walls anyone have a favorite resizing lube I have the spray on stuff
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What's your issue?
Is it while running the brass up into the die or while pulling it out over the expander? HXP is good brass and gives me 0 issues. If it's while running up, your brass is improperly lubed or dirty, or your dies are dirty/have galled brass on them. I f it's while retracting over the expander ball, you don't have enough lube on the neck and/or your expander ball is rough/oversize. -lube the inside of the necks -remove your expander ball and stem and chuck in a drill, polish with crocus cloth. |
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Oh, and I'm not a fan of one shot lube.
for serious sizing......imperial sizing wax from redding for normal stuff.......dillon or rcbs spray. (you can make your own from the old style lanolin for the roller pads and alcohol) i used up the rest of the one shot on LC 5.56 brass. it's a lessor chore but still I used more than the directions said to make it work my first use of one shot was with LC 7.62 machine gun brass. My first stuck cases!
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| I use Mobil -1 synthetic motor oil. First I tumble the shells to remove any dirt. Then I apply a light coating of mobil-1 to the exterior of the shell and use a q-tip to lightly lube the neck. I then full length size and re tumle to desired shine removing all oil. For 223/5.556 brass I purchased the dillon carbide die. It sizes the shells with almost no effort and very little lube required. |
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Quoted:
I use Mobil -1 synthetic motor oil. First I tumble the shells to remove any dirt. Then I apply a light coating of mobil-1 to the exterior of the shell and use a q-tip to lightly lube the neck. I then full length size and re tumle to desired shine removing all oil. For 223/5.556 brass I purchased the dillon carbide die. It sizes the shells with almost no effort and very little lube required. Please tell me your joking about the motor oil.... |
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I'm not sure about the motor oil lube as RCBS lube is cheap and lasts a long time. I am not impressed with the greek brass. I know a lot of people seem to like it but i seem to throw a bunch of out, even after only one firing. It shows signs of case head seperation. Now I know someone is going to say "your headspace is excessive and it's not the brass". I have 6 garands. It does it in all six and my friends garand also. I bought HXP brass from others on the net, same problems. I shoot LC or other surplus in my garands, no case head issues. Oh, and I do have headspace gages and the garands in question are in spec and won't close on the "no go" gage.
I'm not sure what is going on with the brass but I would rather have more korean brass and won't go out of my way to get the HXP brass. I will reload what I shoot. I have not had a problem sizing them with RCBS lube and a lube pad, using a FL RCBS die. I have some cases that are on the 3rd reload. The cases that don't show signs reload nicely. I just throw so many out on the first firing. |
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Quoted:
I use Mobil -1 synthetic motor oil. First I tumble the shells to remove any dirt. Then I apply a light coating of mobil-1 to the exterior of the shell and use a q-tip to lightly lube the neck. I then full length size and re tumle to desired shine removing all oil. For 223/5.556 brass I purchased the dillon carbide die. It sizes the shells with almost no effort and very little lube required. ? I was under the impression that lubricants such as motor oil were too thin, and inappropriate for this service. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I use Mobil -1 synthetic motor oil. First I tumble the shells to remove any dirt. Then I apply a light coating of mobil-1 to the exterior of the shell and use a q-tip to lightly lube the neck. I then full length size and re tumle to desired shine removing all oil. For 223/5.556 brass I purchased the dillon carbide die. It sizes the shells with almost no effort and very little lube required. ? I was under the impression that lubricants such as motor oil were too thin, and inappropriate for this service. oil kills primers
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