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Posted: 10/2/2013 7:26:43 PM EDT
How I never knew about the case kicker I don't know, but after seeing one I thought I might want one. Of course I can't get one from RCBS, and I don't want to pay way to much for a used one, so I made one. The only material needed was some industrial strapping. I also wanted to make it work with the OEM primer catcher. It turned out well and it works wonderfully. I hope to be able to be loading on a progressive by the end of the year, until then the Rock Chucker will have to get the job done.
Case Kicker by zweitakt250, on Flickr 
Case Kicker by zweitakt250, on Flickr 
Case Kicker by zweitakt250, on Flickr 
Case Kicker by zweitakt250, on Flickr 
Case Kicker by zweitakt250, on Flickr |
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Case kicker kicks azz! Used it for years, and definitely speeds up the process.
RCBS is a bit negligent in not sufficiently describing some of their cheap, but VERY useful accessories. Same would apply to the powder baffle for their Uniflow powder dispenser. Accurizes the thing very well, and IMHO should be included as standard equipment. |
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| Nice! I also came up with a case kicker (little more complicated) but only had to trim part of the primer catcher. When I rebuild my reloading bench I'll probably go to something more simple like this. I'm also going to put some kind of hose through the bottom of the primer catcher to feed into a trash can or bottle. |
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Originally Posted By raf:
Case kicker kicks azz! Used it for years, and definitely speeds up the process. RCBS is a bit negligent in not sufficiently describing some of their cheap, but VERY useful accessories. Same would apply to the powder baffle for their Uniflow powder dispenser. Accurizes the thing very well, and IMHO should be included as standard equipment. I agree. My UPM is much more consistent after adding the baffle. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Cool solution. I never considered that I would need such a case kicker on a single stage press.
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Very well done !!
I have an OEM case kicker, and yours appears to be the equal. It has been attached to my RCBS single for a long time.... The only suggestion I have is swap the clamp to a screwed connection ( on the case kicker ) , that way if you want to not use it briefly, you can easily push it aside. |
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Originally Posted By bfoosh06:
Very well done !! I have an OEM case kicker, and yours appears to be the equal. It has been attached to my RCBS single for a long time.... The only suggestion I have is swap the clamp to a screwed connection ( on the case kicker ) , that way if you want to not use it briefly, you can easily push it aside. The screwed fastener is in process. The clamp was for the prototyping stage. I appreciate the positive comments! The bends were made using a bench vise, needle nose pliers, and .375 diameter steel rod. Took a couple of tries for each part but it worked in the end. |
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TZ250 CASE KICKER
That's the simplest solution I've seen yet! In my way of thinking the simpler the better. Great job! I think that your kicker and my Spent Primer Control would be awesome used together. I would really like to see this toggled to keep it out of the archives, and see you put a link to it on the "Read Me First" tacked thread. I would then also add at link to it on the RCBS Section. If I were to copy it for my bench, I would make the bench connection with some 1/4" or 10/24 flush threaded inserts for wood and Thumb screws to make it easily removed for operations not needing it. Like the following:  
While in your case your steel plate just has to be drilled and tapped, mine isn't mounted on a steel plate...... 
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Originally Posted By GWhis:
TZ250 CASE KICKER That's the simplest solution I've seen yet! In my way of thinking the simpler the better. Great job! I think that your kicker and my Spent Primer Control would be awesome used together. I would really like to see this toggled to keep it out of the archives, and see you put a link to it on the "Read Me First" tacked thread. I would then also add at link to it on the RCBS Section. If I were to copy it for my bench, I would make the bench connection with some 1/4" or 10/24 flush threaded inserts for wood and Thumb screws to make it easily removed for operations not needing it. Like the following: http://cloudfront.zorotools.com/product/thum/5PY57_AS01.JPGhttp://cloudfront.zorotools.com/product/thum/4ZU54_AS01.JPG While in your case your steel plate just has to be drilled and tapped, mine isn't mounted on a steel plate...... I like your primer control solution, I even have some epoxy putty i can put to use! I mounted the steel plate a along time ago and it helped with the rigidity of the setup, but at only 1/4" it still flexes somewhat. I will most likely upgrade the plate to a 3/4" thick 24"x12" plate for even more stiffness and more mounting options. After expanding about 400 .40S&W cases the other day the case kicker really proved itself. If the interest is there I could put together a "how-to" so others could benefit from my R&D. |
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Originally Posted By TZ250:
I like your primer control solution, I even have some epoxy putty i can put to use! I mounted the steel plate a along time ago and it helped with the rigidity of the setup, but at only 1/4" it still flexes somewhat. I will most likely upgrade the plate to a 3/4" thick 24"x12" plate for even more stiffness and more mounting options. After expanding about 400 .40S&W cases the other day the case kicker really proved itself. If the interest is there I could put together a "how-to" so others could benefit from my R&D. Originally Posted By TZ250:
Originally Posted By GWhis:
TZ250 CASE KICKER That's the simplest solution I've seen yet! In my way of thinking the simpler the better. Great job! I think that your kicker and my Spent Primer Control would be awesome used together. I would really like to see this toggled to keep it out of the archives, and see you put a link to it on the "Read Me First" tacked thread. I would then also add at link to it on the RCBS Section. If I were to copy it for my bench, I would make the bench connection with some 1/4" or 10/24 flush threaded inserts for wood and Thumb screws to make it easily removed for operations not needing it. Like the following: http://cloudfront.zorotools.com/product/thum/5PY57_AS01.JPGhttp://cloudfront.zorotools.com/product/thum/4ZU54_AS01.JPG While in your case your steel plate just has to be drilled and tapped, mine isn't mounted on a steel plate...... I like your primer control solution, I even have some epoxy putty i can put to use! I mounted the steel plate a along time ago and it helped with the rigidity of the setup, but at only 1/4" it still flexes somewhat. I will most likely upgrade the plate to a 3/4" thick 24"x12" plate for even more stiffness and more mounting options. After expanding about 400 .40S&W cases the other day the case kicker really proved itself. If the interest is there I could put together a "how-to" so others could benefit from my R&D. You've got my vote on the "how-to." A short video would be the icing on the cake. 
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Originally Posted By GWhis: TZ250 CASE KICKER That's the simplest solution I've seen yet! In my way of thinking the simpler the better. Great job! I think that your kicker and my Spent Primer Control would be awesome used together. I would really like to see this toggled to keep it out of the archives, and see you put a link to it on the "Read Me First" tacked thread. I would then also add at link to it on the RCBS Section. If I were to copy it for my bench, I would make the bench connection with some 1/4" or 10/24 flush threaded inserts for wood and Thumb screws to make it easily removed for operations not needing it. Like the following: http://cloudfront.zorotools.com/product/thum/5PY57_AS01.JPGhttp://cloudfront.zorotools.com/product/thum/4ZU54_AS01.JPG While in your case your steel plate just has to be drilled and tapped, mine isn't mounted on a steel plate...... |
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Originally Posted By ycastane:
Is this something you can only DIY or you can actually buy it from RCBS or whomever?? Im interested in this wether i need to make it or buy it. RCBS sold them years ago, but the item is no longer in production. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
| Im going to need some recommendations as to where to find this strapping or where to purchase a piece online. Cant find it in homedepot, bjs wholase, costco, they dont sell it or use it. Thought about using some cheap BBQ tongs but i think its like an 1" wide so its to much i think. Need help!!! |
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Originally Posted By ycastane:
Tried without luck, most places now use plastic straps. Got a piece of a roadway sign (aluminum) going to give it a try to see if it works. Still on the search for it though, hopefully i find some. Aluminum will not work for the kicker. It must be a spring steel. A machine shop or other business that ships heavy items on pallets should have banding in stock. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Probably more than most would want to spend, but I made some out of this a couple years ago. It works well.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#2416k95/=ou7ram |
As a building contractor I still see (and throw away) strapping all the time. Steel Strapping has been replaced by plastic strapping for the most part, but heavier items, like fireplace packaging, or pallets of masonry still use the steel. You could try a masonry supply, or fireplace dealer, or a home building site. A lumber yard may have it in their trash bins.....if your are in the mood for dumpster diving.... .
I used to have rolls of the stuff and the tools to tighten and crimp it......I'll look around......if I find a roll, maybe I can figure out a way to send some out to people say in long business sized envelope if 8.5" is long enough????? if not a manilla envelope (more expensive) ......for the cost of the envelope & postage. I'll see. |
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Originally Posted By GWhis:
As a building contractor I still see (and throw away) strapping all the time. Steel Strapping has been replaced by plastic strapping for the most part, but heavier items, like fireplace packaging, or pallets of masonry still use the steel. You could try a masonry supply, or fireplace dealer, or a home building site. A lumber yard may have it in their trash bins.....if your are in the mood for dumpster diving.... .
I used to have rolls of the stuff and the tools to tighten and crimp it......I'll look around......if I find a roll, maybe I can figure out a way to send some out to people say in long business sized envelope if 8.5" is long enough????? if not a manilla envelope (more expensive) ......for the cost of the envelope & postage. I'll see. If you find some i wouldnt mind paying for shipping and envelope and everything involved, least i can do. Appreciate the offer!! |
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Originally Posted By MPD444:
I used a hose clamp that I cut apart then shaped the ens with a propane torch and a needle nose pliers. here it is on my old bench.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLFzTrJ_wVoHose clamp?? Searched it. Got it. Will look it up in home depot right now!! Thanks |
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Originally Posted By TZ250:
The banding material I used for the kicker is .026x.75". The ramp is made from .031x1.25" material. The most common banding stock is .020x.5". The .020 may work for the kicker, but I'm not sure. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Im guessing the .26 and the rest is the thickness? and the inches is the length it comes in or something? EDIT: What length will i need for the case kicker? 12" enough? |
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Originally Posted By ycastane:
Im guessing the .26 and the rest is the thickness? and the inches is the length it comes in or something? EDIT: What length will i need for the case kicker? 12" enough? Originally Posted By ycastane:
Originally Posted By TZ250:
The banding material I used for the kicker is .026x.75". The ramp is made from .031x1.25" material. The most common banding stock is .020x.5". The .020 may work for the kicker, but I'm not sure. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Im guessing the .26 and the rest is the thickness? and the inches is the length it comes in or something? EDIT: What length will i need for the case kicker? 12" enough? .026" inches is the thickness of the material. .75" is the width of the material. 12" length is more than enough. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Originally Posted By TZ250:
.026" inches is the thickness of the material. .75" is the width of the material. 12" length is more than enough. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Originally Posted By TZ250:
Originally Posted By ycastane:
Originally Posted By TZ250:
The banding material I used for the kicker is .026x.75". The ramp is made from .031x1.25" material. The most common banding stock is .020x.5". The .020 may work for the kicker, but I'm not sure. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Im guessing the .26 and the rest is the thickness? and the inches is the length it comes in or something? EDIT: What length will i need for the case kicker? 12" enough? .026" inches is the thickness of the material. .75" is the width of the material. 12" length is more than enough. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Thanks bud! Appreciate the help. Remembered yesterday that i have a friend who works at a metal fab shop and he is going to get me some. ;) |
| A short video showing operation. Case Kicker |
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What is that piece of steel for? That is mounted in the slot meant for the auto prime? Your 'kicker works well.
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Originally Posted By dryflash3:
What is that piece of steel for? That is mounted in the slot meant for the auto prime? Your 'kicker works well. Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Your 'kicker works well. That is a bar I made to mount my Lyman 55 powder measure. Thanks! |
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Originally Posted By TZ250: That is a bar I made to mount my Lyman 55 powder measure. Thanks! Originally Posted By TZ250: Originally Posted By dryflash3: Your 'kicker works well. That is a bar I made to mount my Lyman 55 powder measure. Thanks!  |
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My wife was out of town this weekend and my dad's care precludes starting on one of the two long projects I want to do, so I decided to put the finishing touches to my Rockchucker project.....this part totally inspired by the TZ250 Case Kicker!
I mentioned that I thought your Case Kicker idea would be a perfect companion to my Spent Primer Control Mod. I was right! Here's what I came up with today: 
I couldn't find any strapping, so I resurrected a very large hose clamp. It worked perfect. Only the non-perforated parts will work. (Thanks to MPD444 for that idea!) I used a little less than 6". I decided to fasten the system to the Rock Chucker's mounting bolt rather than drill more holes in my top, using 1 1/4" steel tubing cut to fit, and drilled the holes in it. Getting the contraption raised 1 1/4" also made it easier to mount it over the existing primer catcher (also used for my spent primer tube drop) with less cutout. 
Rather than mount a piece of steel like you did, since I no longer use that part of the primer catcher for primers, I just used some epoxy putty to make a ramp. It's such a bright white you can't see the shape very well.....I ended up painting it all black anyway. I'm happy to say that works as good as yours, and that's saying something. I cut a square slot in the primer catcher and intended to use the other half of the steel tubing for a ramp......didn't work so good.....and the square cut didn't either.....you can see where the epoxy filled in the back of the slot, and that forced the "kicked" brass in the bin better. For the purists: I took this picture before I realized I hadn't tightened the kicker and it wandered off center. The shellholder is turned too. Nuts! I always do that.....get excited and take the pictures without "combing my hair first."
I fastened the kicker spring to the steel tubing with two holes & two 10-24 bolts. One's a thumb screw into a whole I opened to a slot so I just loosen and swing at the times when I want to swing the kicker back to the frame, out of the way, for operations not needing the kicker's services.
I drilled the holes with a #25 drill and tapped them with a 10-24 tap. 
Here's what's left of the material I used. I'm a pack rat....never throw raw material away, so I didn't have to pay for anything.....today that is. Being a building contractor, I collect more left over material than most people. I feel sorry for my kids when I die.
THANKS TZ250!! You helped make my very old Rock Chucker state of the art!!!! I really need to buy a ball end for the handle though.
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Originally Posted By TZ250:
Excellent!! I like the epoxy chute! I have about 500 rounds to process tomorrow so I'm looking forward to using the kicker. My handle ball came from Hobby Lobby. I like the warm feel the wood gives. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile I have the new supreme and i kind of dont like the ball after quite a few rounds processed. EDIT: I am building my kicker this afternoon after work. Cannot wait!!! |
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I have one of the original RCBS case kickers. I added a second shorter band for doing rifle length cases. I use banding strap to make mine. I actually use it double by folding it back on itself. I have plenty of extra banding to make replacements but doubt I'll ever need it. I have made a couple for friends. I'm speaking of the kicker itself.
I use the primer deflector that came with the kicker but it's far from perfect. I guess that's what shop vacs are made for. Motor |
Don't over complicate things. Cover the basics and you'll be ok.
I didnt put this on a green press, but the open front Lee press is great for depriming on because I can run the lever left handed, feed cases right handed. My kicker is made from a piece of strap banding, the chute from a piece of 20g sheetmetal I had kicking around the garage. I put the tube on the edge of the chute because you know, Murphy and stuff.
Works like a champ for decapping anything I dont want to run thru my LnL. |
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