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Posted: 9/4/2012 4:19:10 PM EDT
| I have been trying to shoot my cast 9mm loads, but am experiencing many jams. My loads are 4.3 grains of Bullseye and I also tried 4.0 grains of W231. My bullets are cast 124 grain 9mm Lee Tumble load cast from an alloy of pure lead and range pickup lead. I have been shooting them in my glock 19 and have a bunch of stovepipes and other chambering problems. All could be easily fixed but in a 15 round mag I may experience 5 stoppages. The gun shoots fine with fmj. What could the problem be? The loads feel plenty hot enough. |
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let me ask a question without getting flamed. Are you using an after market barrel? some say shooting lead from a glock barrel is not wise. i shoot lead out of mine but i use an aftermarket barrel. 100 bucks is worth my hand and face. i can make that price difference up quickly in savings.
what does the load data say for those powders? are you at the low end of the charge? are you limp wristing when you are shooting? whats your COL? Lead hardness? |
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Is the bullet that you're using the 124 2R bullet? If so I'm betting the rim of the expended round is catching the driving band of the round in the magazine during ejection. I have several Glocks that I can't shoot a SWC bullet or a bullet with an exposed driving band. Here you go, check out this thread. I have some pictures there that may help you understand what could be going on. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_5_13/128884_Glock_30_malfunctions_with_200_gr_swc.html From my experience, I've found that when shooting lead out of a Glock factory barrel a harder alloy is better. I use water quenched wheel weights. You'll have to experiment with the lube - I'm still messing around with the lube for my 9mm Glock - I'm just about there, but not quite yet. I've found that developing a lead load for the 9mm Glocks has been the hardest round I've reloaded(with the factory barrel). I pretty much have it down for the 45 and 40. Hope this helps! |
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I'm using the Missouri Bullets 124 gr "smallball" LRN, and in a Glock, it has to be seated way deep before the bullet will stop touching the barrel leade. Like 1.040" OAL.
Any longer than that, and the bullet will be forced back into the case by the rifling as the round chambers. |
| I knew the polygonal rifling and lead would come up; this is the factory barrel. I have shot a lot of lead through my other glocks (not 9mm's) and do not experience any unusual leading compared to octagonal rifling. I just make sure I clean my glock barrels after every range session and I don't have a problem. The mould that I have is a Lee round nose 124 grain tumble lube. I know that the swc's dont function because I have a 200 grain 45 swc mould I use for my 1911's but it won't function in my g30. The exact mixture of lead I was using was about 30% wheel weight, 30% pure lead, and 40% range pickup (mostly 12 gauge slugs). I didnt experience over leading with this alloy and dont really see how this would affect functioning anyway. (This mix works great in my 1911 .45 swc bullets) I don't know the cartridge overall off the top of my head but I could check later. Thanks for the help so far |
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Quoted:
I knew the polygonal rifling and lead would come up; this is the factory barrel. I have shot a lot of lead through my other glocks (not 9mm's) and do not experience any unusual leading compared to octagonal rifling. I just make sure I clean my glock barrels after every range session and I don't have a problem. The mould that I have is a Lee round nose 124 grain tumble lube. I know that the swc's dont function because I have a 200 grain 45 swc mould I use for my 1911's but it won't function in my g30. The exact mixture of lead I was using was about 30% wheel weight, 30% pure lead, and 40% range pickup (mostly 12 gauge slugs). I didnt experience over leading with this alloy and dont really see how this would affect functioning anyway. (This mix works great in my 1911 .45 swc bullets) I don't know the cartridge overall off the top of my head but I could check later. Thanks for the help so far Still need your OAL to help out. Have you tried removing your barrel and dropping the rounds in? They should drop in and fall out. |
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Quoted: I'm betting that's your problem that's the 124 2R. I've been using the 120 TC with fairly good results, as said above I'm still working with which lube I like the best.I knew the polygonal rifling and lead would come up; this is the factory barrel. I have shot a lot of lead through my other glocks (not 9mm's) and do not experience any unusual leading compared to octagonal rifling. I just make sure I clean my glock barrels after every range session and I don't have a problem. The mould that I have is a Lee round nose 124 grain tumble lube. I know that the swc's dont function because I have a 200 grain 45 swc mould I use for my 1911's but it won't function in my g30. The exact mixture of lead I was using was about 30% wheel weight, 30% pure lead, and 40% range pickup (mostly 12 gauge slugs). I didnt experience over leading with this alloy and dont really see how this would affect functioning anyway. (This mix works great in my 1911 .45 swc bullets) I don't know the cartridge overall off the top of my head but I could check later. Thanks for the help so far I just threw in the lead hardness stuff in case this was your first go around with lead and Glocks.  It doesn't sound like it is! |
I could get the OAL tomorrow but the rounds do drop free in and out of the barrel. They also chamber and eject perfectly if I rack the slide manually. I hope this isn't the problem with the type of mould I have because I bought this mould specifically for my G19. Thanks for all the info so far 
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Quoted:
I could get the OAL tomorrow but the rounds do drop free in and out of the barrel. They also chamber and eject perfectly if I rack the slide manually. I hope this isn't the problem with the type of mould I have because I bought this mould specifically for my G19. Thanks for all the info so far OK, but is the case rim sticking out above the barrel hood? The rounds can drop in and out freely and still be too long. |
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Your rounds aren't hot enough. I had a 19 with a really tight chamber. I had to gauge all of my reloads until I changed to the Lee FCD. I see that 4.0 is max load for 231 with a lead bullet, 1035fps, 32900psi. My 17 functioned fine with them. I probably changed to plated when I got my 19. If you aren't using a stock recoil spring, put one in and try it again. |
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The 45 and 9 are too very different animals. The 45 will tolerate much softer alloy and work great without lead fouling. But to the point:
I agree with Henny. I had some stove piping with my 1911 and it was because the OAL was too short. The ejecting case rim was catching the case mouth of the round in the mag and basically stripping it from the extractor before it had a chance to hit the ejector. With the OAL a little longer the ejecting case rim bumps over the bullet and does not contact the case mouth. No more stove piping. This may or may not be your problem but is something to look for. |
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