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Posted: 6/17/2010 3:01:47 PM EDT
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Handgun bullets.
Given all things equal, two or six hole mold? |
| I like 2 cavities simply because they are not as difficult to heat evenly and keep at consistent temps. That being said, lee 2 cavities are ok to learn on but fickle to make a nice pile quickly. I have a LOT of issues with keeping the mould aligned properly and spend more time adjusting the mould to be level than I do casting. Hell, I spend more time putting back the Lee art that I get from old drippy (20lb Lee pot) than I do casting with their 2 cavities come to think of it. Once I got past the learning curve for MiHec moulds I wouldn't consider another Lee product ever. |
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I'm just starting casting after reloading for over thirty years. I am at the reading-all-I-can and starting-to-collect-equipment stage. I will not melt any lead until probably this winter.
I have the Lee small, bottom pour furnace now and will be adding equipment as finances allow over the summer. |
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My question would be how many rounds do you shot ? only two holers I've used are on my Magma machine, never had a problem with my 6 hole Lee molds, I DO love the Star lube/sizer A few hundred a week. I load in the winter and shoot in the summer. Go with the six banger , if you've got the coin grab a star/magma sizer |
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I have little to add.
But just cast my first 500ish 200gr swc w/a lee Alum 6 banger. God that was fun, more fun then reloading less funny then shooting
After she got warned up, I did not want to put the mold down. BTW What kind of maintainence should I preform on the mold? My spruse plate seems to be rubbing a little on the steel bolt on the left side. I will post pics later. |
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BTW What kind of maintainence should I preform on the mold? Unless you damaged it or got lead stuck between the blocks, let it cool and put it away. High temperature Anti-seize compound makes a good sprue pivot and pin lubricant. Much, much better than any wax or bullet lube. A little wear at the contact points of the sprue plate and stop bolt is normal and unavoidable. You can put a little anti-seize there as well to minimize it, but it cannot be stopped. |
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BTW What kind of maintainence should I preform on the mold? Unless you damaged it or got lead stuck between the blocks, let it cool and put it away. High temperature Anti-seize compound makes a good sprue pivot and pin lubricant. Much, much better than any wax or bullet lube. A little wear at the contact points of the sprue plate and stop bolt is normal and unavoidable. You can put a little anti-seize there as well to minimize it, but it cannot be stopped. Best lube I've found for those molds: dry graphite. I dump some on the sprue plate of all of my Lee molds. It seems to work well. I suppose anti-seize that works up to 1200F or so would also work well. I really like my Lee 6 cavity molds. I can really run through the lead using them. Getting them consistently up to heat is the hardest part,but I've found that it's easiest to just get a good melt going,and start pouring, dumping all of the first 5-10 sets of bullets back into the pot. Pour quickly,and the mold will heat up very quickly. Keep up the pace,use a wet rag for periodic cooldowns every 10 casts or so,and you can keep a quick pace going. |
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Is a release agent usually used and how is it used if it is? From my experience and conversations with others both live and electronic, commercial release agents are rarely used. I had read about them, but never seen it applied in all the videos I've watched. |
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BTW What kind of maintainence should I preform on the mold? Unless you damaged it or got lead stuck between the blocks, let it cool and put it away. High temperature Anti-seize compound makes a good sprue pivot and pin lubricant. Much, much better than any wax or bullet lube. A little wear at the contact points of the sprue plate and stop bolt is normal and unavoidable. You can put a little anti-seize there as well to minimize it, but it cannot be stopped. Best lube I've found for those molds: dry graphite. I dump some on the sprue plate of all of my Lee molds. It seems to work well. I suppose anti-seize that works up to 1200F or so would also work well. I really like my Lee 6 cavity molds. I can really run through the lead using them. Getting them consistently up to heat is the hardest part,but I've found that it's easiest to just get a good melt going,and start pouring, dumping all of the first 5-10 sets of bullets back into the pot. Pour quickly,and the mold will heat up very quickly. Keep up the pace,use a wet rag for periodic cooldowns every 10 casts or so,and you can keep a quick pace going. I bought an 8 ounce brush bottle of this Permatex product 30ish years ago. I'll probably have half a bottle left for my daughter to throw out when I'm gone. http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/lubricants/specialty_lubricants/Permatex_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_a.htm I place the blocks on top of my pot when I plug it in. The first pour makes keepers. |
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BTW What kind of maintainence should I preform on the mold? Unless you damaged it or got lead stuck between the blocks, let it cool and put it away. High temperature Anti-seize compound makes a good sprue pivot and pin lubricant. Much, much better than any wax or bullet lube. A little wear at the contact points of the sprue plate and stop bolt is normal and unavoidable. You can put a little anti-seize there as well to minimize it, but it cannot be stopped. Best lube I've found for those molds: dry graphite. I dump some on the sprue plate of all of my Lee molds. It seems to work well. I suppose anti-seize that works up to 1200F or so would also work well. I really like my Lee 6 cavity molds. I can really run through the lead using them. Getting them consistently up to heat is the hardest part,but I've found that it's easiest to just get a good melt going,and start pouring, dumping all of the first 5-10 sets of bullets back into the pot. Pour quickly,and the mold will heat up very quickly. Keep up the pace,use a wet rag for periodic cooldowns every 10 casts or so,and you can keep a quick pace going. I bought an 8 ounce brush bottle of this Permatex product 30ish years ago. I'll probably have half a bottle left for my daughter to throw out when I'm gone. http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/lubricants/specialty_lubricants/Permatex_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_a.htm I place the blocks on top of my pot when I plug it in. The first pour makes keepers. I use a lot of that stuff working on the cars and motorcycles. The only problem with it is that as soon as you open the container people from three states away get it on everything around them. Thanks for the advise folks. I'm collecting equipment this summer for casting next winter. I'm going to be doing 158gr SWC 38/357, 200gr SWC and 230gr RN .45 ACP and 250gr RNFP .45 Colt to start. I'll probably branch out later for bullets to feed some of my C&R bolt guns. |
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Is a release agent usually used and how is it used if it is? I like using a release agent, always get away with just a flick to dump bullets, I also use Bullplate Sprue Lube What he said! Bullplate Sprue lube is incredible, it turns the Lee 6 cavity molds into bullet making monster. Casting with my Ballisticast mold & Bullshop lube I can cut the sprue by hand, once the mold is hot enough, and that really speeds things up. |
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I'll bite, where do you get this magic Bullplate Sprue Lube? http://bullshop.gunloads.com/tbs_lube.htm/ |
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