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Posted: 8/17/2011 3:25:31 PM EDT
| I'm working on my first AR-308 build, and I'll be picking up a can for it when I'm done. I'm pretty stingy when it comes to spending, so I want to do this as cheap as possible, within reason. What do the good people of AR15.com consider to be a can of reasonable quality that's a great deal as far as price goes? So far the YHM 7.62 seems good, but 600 something is still alot of money. |
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As above^
I was going to go the cheap route or just wait for used one to pop up. Then I got smart. Why spend $500 then wish you had spent $300 more for the best can. I picked up an AAC 762SDN-6 from Major Malfunction something like $250 below MSRP. GIVE HIM A CALL! Buy once cry once! |
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triple x warrior $375 Damn... That is cheap. Reviews say it's built like a brick shit house, and doesn't suppress nearly as well as a little more higher end cans. I think I'll probably cheap out less than I thought. I'll never be the kinda guy who would spring for Surefire. I just don't see the money being used wisely there. (Wait... lol I'm already buying a suppressor...) I'll go with something a little more high end but not on the extreme end. Probably AAC. I guess it's a bit better on the sound factor than the YHM? |
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I'll go with something a little more high end but not on the extreme end. Probably AAC. I guess it's a bit better on the sound factor than the YHM? Both AAC and Surefire are high end, their focus is just a little different. I would go with either in a heartbeat depending on what your needs are, and going with some like Major Malfunction will get you either at below MSRP. |
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I'll go with something a little more high end but not on the extreme end. Probably AAC. I guess it's a bit better on the sound factor than the YHM? Both AAC and Surefire are high end, their focus is just a little different. I would go with either in a heartbeat depending on what your needs are, and going with some like Major Malfunction will get you either at below MSRP. What is different about AAC and Surefire? And I'm not sure what Surefire stuff normally goes for, but I was looking on a local gun shops website and I saw some of them for like 1700... Count me out of that. It's gonna be painful enough to shell out 800 |
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Surefire's main focus is on minimum POI shift, repeatability, durability, and then suppression. They make a rock solid can. It may not be the quietest on the market, but it is a damn good shooter. In all fairness, their line is pretty damn quiet and innovative. AAC makes great cans too. Their designs are solid. I personally own an N6 and shoot it on several rifles, which to me says a lot; being an SOT gives me the pick of the litter. I run the N6 on two .300Blks and a .308bolt. It is going to go on my .308 Mega build as well. I have seen very minimum POI shift and it is consistent. All inconel construction makes it tough as hell. Personally, I like the short length of the can. That makes it perfect for those who want a .308 and a .223 can. It is just a smidge longer than the M4-2k. There are also a lot of less expensive (not cheap) solutions out there...The YHM Ti-Phantom in .308 is one of them. It'll take all things .30 cal down the hatch. It is long but extremely light. It sounds really good on a .308 as well. One thing that I have to say when buying a can is shop shop shop. You will find a dealer who will work with you (there are a few out there). Good news out of Texas is that Form 3s are taking about 10 days from fax mahine to mailbox. Thanks, Sara Jones! |
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Surefire's main focus is on minimum POI shift, repeatability, durability, and then suppression. They make a rock solid can. It may not be the quietest on the market, but it is a damn good shooter. In all fairness, their line is pretty damn quiet and innovative. AAC makes great cans too. Their designs are solid. I personally own an N6 and shoot it on several rifles, which to me says a lot; being an SOT gives me the pick of the litter. I run the N6 on two .300Blks and a .308bolt. It is going to go on my .308 Mega build as well. I have seen very minimum POI shift and it is consistent. All inconel construction makes it tough as hell. Personally, I like the short length of the can. That makes it perfect for those who want a .308 and a .223 can. It is just a smidge longer than the M4-2k. There are also a lot of less expensive (not cheap) solutions out there...The YHM Ti-Phantom in .308 is one of them. It'll take all things .30 cal down the hatch. It is long but extremely light. It sounds really good on a .308 as well. One thing that I have to say when buying a can is shop shop shop. You will find a dealer who will work with you (there are a few out there). Good news out of Texas is that Form 3s are taking about 10 days from fax mahine to mailbox. Thanks, Sara Jones! Wow I have alot to learn. Thanks for all the info. The site some of the others directed me to (Major Malfunction) has stupid cheap prices. I'll keep researching researching researching! Thanks for all the input everybody |
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The one caveat I offer about the YHM 762 (QD SS version) is the weight. As others have said, shop around and ask, ask, ask. Then make your determination for your own reasons. That's why you gotta go titanium! 
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A friend has a Coastal LRT .308. Price was $380.00.and it comes apart. You mean you can dis-assemble it for cleaning? Hm... |
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That's another thing I'm unsure about. Do I really need a can that comes apart for cleaning? What are the downsides to it being dirty? Does it decrease the effectiveness of sound suppression? Dirty cans are really only a nuisance to the Felix Ungers amongst us. You know who you are. Cleaning a can is a personal issue. It's not required, but, why not. |
| The Ti is also nearly 2X the price as the SS unit, which IMHO takes it out of the "budget cans" category. If I had the cash, I'd have the Ti, but my SS was a budgeting consideration. I was very impressed with the weight at the AAC silencer shoot in Memphis this year when Nate was showing it to me. |
| Ok. I've narrowed it down a bit. AAC Cyclone, AAC 762 SD, and YHM SS Phantom. It sounds like the Cyclone is going to be the quietest out of all of these. At 22 oz it's relatively light, and it has the highest db reduction. It's screw on, which is fine with me, I'm not sure if I'll have to buy the AAC flash hider seperately or if it will come with it, but it's quick enough detatch for my intents and purposes. One thing I am confused on. The cyclone is quieter than the 762, but they have exactly the same msrp. Is that because the 762 is slightly lighter and smaller? |
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Ok. I've narrowed it down a bit. AAC Cyclone, AAC 762 SD, and YHM SS Phantom. It sounds like the Cyclone is going to be the quietest out of all of these. At 22 oz it's relatively light, and it has the highest db reduction. It's screw on, which is fine with me, I'm not sure if I'll have to buy the AAC flash hider seperately or if it will come with it, but it's quick enough detatch for my intents and purposes. One thing I am confused on. The cyclone is quieter than the 762, but they have exactly the same msrp. Is that because the 762 is slightly lighter and smaller? The Cyclone is a thread-on can, which I wouldn't use on a semi-auto. If you're not concerned about weight and length as much, get the 762-SD. If you might use it on an AR-15 SBR later on (do it), get the 762-SDN-6. It's more durable, lighter, and shorter. I went with the SDN-6, and I don't regret that decision a bit. |
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Ok. I've narrowed it down a bit. AAC Cyclone, AAC 762 SD, and YHM SS Phantom. It sounds like the Cyclone is going to be the quietest out of all of these. At 22 oz it's relatively light, and it has the highest db reduction. It's screw on, which is fine with me, I'm not sure if I'll have to buy the AAC flash hider seperately or if it will come with it, but it's quick enough detatch for my intents and purposes. One thing I am confused on. The cyclone is quieter than the 762, but they have exactly the same msrp. Is that because the 762 is slightly lighter and smaller? The Cyclone is a thread-on can, which I wouldn't use on a semi-auto. If you're not concerned about weight and length as much, get the 762-SD. If you might use it on an AR-15 SBR later on (do it), get the 762-SDN-6. It's more durable, lighter, and shorter. I went with the SDN-6, and I don't regret that decision a bit. I use ACC cyclone-k can on my ar10 and my .308 bolt gun. The nice thing about thread on can is you can thread any bolt gun that you would like to use it on. |
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Ok. I've narrowed it down a bit. AAC Cyclone, AAC 762 SD, and YHM SS Phantom. It sounds like the Cyclone is going to be the quietest out of all of these. At 22 oz it's relatively light, and it has the highest db reduction. It's screw on, which is fine with me, I'm not sure if I'll have to buy the AAC flash hider seperately or if it will come with it, but it's quick enough detatch for my intents and purposes. One thing I am confused on. The cyclone is quieter than the 762, but they have exactly the same msrp. Is that because the 762 is slightly lighter and smaller? The Cyclone is a thread-on can, which I wouldn't use on a semi-auto. If you're not concerned about weight and length as much, get the 762-SD. If you might use it on an AR-15 SBR later on (do it), get the 762-SDN-6. It's more durable, lighter, and shorter. I went with the SDN-6, and I don't regret that decision a bit. Why shouldn't I use it on a semi auto? And doesn't it just thread right on to the FH that AAC makes?? |
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Ok. I've narrowed it down a bit. AAC Cyclone, AAC 762 SD, and YHM SS Phantom. It sounds like the Cyclone is going to be the quietest out of all of these. At 22 oz it's relatively light, and it has the highest db reduction. It's screw on, which is fine with me, I'm not sure if I'll have to buy the AAC flash hider seperately or if it will come with it, but it's quick enough detatch for my intents and purposes. One thing I am confused on. The cyclone is quieter than the 762, but they have exactly the same msrp. Is that because the 762 is slightly lighter and smaller? The Cyclone is a thread-on can, which I wouldn't use on a semi-auto. If you're not concerned about weight and length as much, get the 762-SD. If you might use it on an AR-15 SBR later on (do it), get the 762-SDN-6. It's more durable, lighter, and shorter. I went with the SDN-6, and I don't regret that decision a bit. I use ACC cyclone-k can on my ar10 and my .308 bolt gun. The nice thing about thread on can is you can thread any bolt gun that you would like to use it on. My bolt action is threaded for my SDN-6. I don't see how it's any different. When I take my can off, I have either a flash hider or a brake on my gun, not exposed threads that need a thread protector. Quoted:
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Ok. I've narrowed it down a bit. AAC Cyclone, AAC 762 SD, and YHM SS Phantom. It sounds like the Cyclone is going to be the quietest out of all of these. At 22 oz it's relatively light, and it has the highest db reduction. It's screw on, which is fine with me, I'm not sure if I'll have to buy the AAC flash hider seperately or if it will come with it, but it's quick enough detatch for my intents and purposes. One thing I am confused on. The cyclone is quieter than the 762, but they have exactly the same msrp. Is that because the 762 is slightly lighter and smaller? The Cyclone is a thread-on can, which I wouldn't use on a semi-auto. If you're not concerned about weight and length as much, get the 762-SD. If you might use it on an AR-15 SBR later on (do it), get the 762-SDN-6. It's more durable, lighter, and shorter. I went with the SDN-6, and I don't regret that decision a bit. Why shouldn't I use it on a semi auto? And doesn't it just thread right on to the FH that AAC makes?? Semi-autos have the bolt carrier slamming back and forth, shaking the can loose from the threads. That's why a QD mount is better than a threadmount for semi-autos. No, it threads onto barrel threads. The 762-SD and the 762-SDN-6 thread onto the flash hider / brake that AAC makes. |
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Ok. I've narrowed it down a bit. AAC Cyclone, AAC 762 SD, and YHM SS Phantom. It sounds like the Cyclone is going to be the quietest out of all of these. At 22 oz it's relatively light, and it has the highest db reduction. It's screw on, which is fine with me, I'm not sure if I'll have to buy the AAC flash hider seperately or if it will come with it, but it's quick enough detatch for my intents and purposes. One thing I am confused on. The cyclone is quieter than the 762, but they have exactly the same msrp. Is that because the 762 is slightly lighter and smaller? The Cyclone is a thread-on can, which I wouldn't use on a semi-auto. If you're not concerned about weight and length as much, get the 762-SD. If you might use it on an AR-15 SBR later on (do it), get the 762-SDN-6. It's more durable, lighter, and shorter. I went with the SDN-6, and I don't regret that decision a bit. I use ACC cyclone-k can on my ar10 and my .308 bolt gun. The nice thing about thread on can is you can thread any bolt gun that you would like to use it on. My bolt action is threaded for my SDN-6. I don't see how it's any different. When I take my can off, I have either a flash hider or a brake on my gun, not exposed threads that need a thread protector. Quoted:
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Ok. I've narrowed it down a bit. AAC Cyclone, AAC 762 SD, and YHM SS Phantom. It sounds like the Cyclone is going to be the quietest out of all of these. At 22 oz it's relatively light, and it has the highest db reduction. It's screw on, which is fine with me, I'm not sure if I'll have to buy the AAC flash hider seperately or if it will come with it, but it's quick enough detatch for my intents and purposes. One thing I am confused on. The cyclone is quieter than the 762, but they have exactly the same msrp. Is that because the 762 is slightly lighter and smaller? The Cyclone is a thread-on can, which I wouldn't use on a semi-auto. If you're not concerned about weight and length as much, get the 762-SD. If you might use it on an AR-15 SBR later on (do it), get the 762-SDN-6. It's more durable, lighter, and shorter. I went with the SDN-6, and I don't regret that decision a bit. Why shouldn't I use it on a semi auto? And doesn't it just thread right on to the FH that AAC makes?? Semi-autos have the bolt carrier slamming back and forth, shaking the can loose from the threads. That's why a QD mount is better than a threadmount for semi-autos. No, it threads onto barrel threads. The 762-SD and the 762-SDN-6 thread onto the flash hider / brake that AAC makes. Wow. Thanks for the input. You saved me from ordering the complete wrong thing. |
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There isn't a damn thing wrong with a threaded can on a semi or full auto gun. In fact, a threaded can WILL be more accurate and repeatable than a quick-detach can.
Threaded cans coming loose because the bolt carrier slams back and forth ?  That's 'gotta be one of the dumbest things I've ever heard. They come loose when dipshits don't screw them on tight enough or forget to check them periodically.
I've had an AAC Ranger (thread-on) for damn near 10 years now... and have screwed it on several different SBR's, AR15's, M16's etc... beating the snot out of it every time.... and NOT ONCE has it come loose. In fact, it actually seems to be MORE difficult to take off after hard use. If you want a rugged, ACCURATE and reliable no frills affordable can for your .308, the 5/8-24 threaded AAC Cyclone is hard to beat. It will also screw right on any other 5/8-24 threaded rifle without the need for an overpriced proprietary muzzlebrake. 
There have also been cases of quick-detach cans coming loose and being damaged by baffle strikes when the ratchet mechanism doesn't stay tight. Quoted:
triple x warrior $375 Excellent advise. I have one of these and it's built plenty rugged. Mine started life with 1/2-28 threads... I just recently put it in the lathe and made it a 5/8-24 can. It works GREAT on my .308 stuff now.
Another name often overlooked is Elite Iron. Dale is a great guy to deal with... and he builds very high quality, affordable cans. http://www.eliteiron.net/ |
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There isn't a damn thing wrong with a threaded can on a semi or full auto gun. In fact, a threaded can WILL be more accurate and repeatable than a quick-detach can. Threaded cans coming loose because the bolt carrier slams back and forth ? That's 'gotta be one of the dumbest things I've ever heard. They come loose when dipshits don't screw them on tight enough or forget to check them periodically.
BCG smashing back and forth = vibrations = can loosens. Thanks for calling me a dipshit though, that's pretty damn uncalled for when I'm offering technical advice. |
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There isn't a damn thing wrong with a threaded can on a semi or full auto gun. In fact, a threaded can WILL be more accurate and repeatable than a quick-detach can. Threaded cans coming loose because the bolt carrier slams back and forth ? That's 'gotta be one of the dumbest things I've ever heard. They come loose when dipshits don't screw them on tight enough or forget to check them periodically.
BCG smashing back and forth = vibrations = can loosens. Thanks for calling me a dipshit though, that's pretty damn uncalled for when I'm offering technical advice. Sorry but there was nothing "technical" about your advice. It's wrong. Period. Do you seriously believe the expansion, contraction, heat, pressure, blast, barrel harmonics, etc... are overshadowed by "bolt carrier virbrations" ?
I'll repeat what I posted before. That's the dumbest thing I've ever heard. I wasn't calling you a dipshit directly. ANYONE who sends a bullet through the side of their $850 suppressor IS a dipshit for not paying attention to details and for not screwing a can on tight enough. What IS uncalled for though... is your inaccurate "technical advice". This is the kind of stupid stuff I hear every day across my gun counter. |
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There isn't a damn thing wrong with a threaded can on a semi or full auto gun. In fact, a threaded can WILL be more accurate and repeatable than a quick-detach can. Threaded cans coming loose because the bolt carrier slams back and forth ? That's 'gotta be one of the dumbest things I've ever heard. They come loose when dipshits don't screw them on tight enough or forget to check them periodically.
I've had an AAC Ranger (thread-on) for damn near 10 years now... and have screwed it on several different SBR's, AR15's, M16's etc... beating the snot out of it every time.... and NOT ONCE has it come loose. In fact, it actually seems to be MORE difficult to take off after hard use. If you want a rugged, ACCURATE and reliable no frills affordable can for your .308, the 5/8-24 threaded AAC Cyclone is hard to beat. It will also screw right on any other 5/8-24 threaded rifle without the need for an overpriced proprietary muzzlebrake.
There have also been cases of quick-detach cans coming loose and being damaged by baffle strikes when the ratchet mechanism doesn't stay tight. Quoted:
triple x warrior $375 Excellent advise. I have one of these and it's built plenty rugged. Mine started life with 1/2-28 threads... I just recently put it in the lathe and made it a 5/8-24 can. It works GREAT on my .308 stuff now.
Another name often overlooked is Elite Iron. Dale is a great guy to deal with... and he builds very high quality, affordable cans. http://www.eliteiron.net/ my 10.5" triple x sounds very good even when compared to my AAC cyclone. it is slightly louder but still very hearing safe> if I shot them both and didnt tell you wich was which I dont think you could tell. |
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There isn't a damn thing wrong with a threaded can on a semi or full auto gun. In fact, a threaded can WILL be more accurate and repeatable than a quick-detach can. Threaded cans coming loose because the bolt carrier slams back and forth ? That's 'gotta be one of the dumbest things I've ever heard. They come loose when dipshits don't screw them on tight enough or forget to check them periodically.
BCG smashing back and forth = vibrations = can loosens. Thanks for calling me a dipshit though, that's pretty damn uncalled for when I'm offering technical advice. Sorry but there was nothing "technical" about your advice. It's wrong. Period. Do you seriously believe the expansion, contraction, heat, pressure, blast, barrel harmonics, etc... are overshadowed by "bolt carrier virbrations" ?
I'll repeat what I posted before. That's the dumbest thing I've ever heard. I wasn't calling you a dipshit directly. ANYONE who sends a bullet through the side of their $850 suppressor IS a dipshit for not paying attention to details and for not screwing a can on tight enough. What IS uncalled for though... is your inaccurate "technical advice". This is the kind of stupid stuff I hear every day across my gun counter. Ok, how about this? Use a threaded can if you enjoy checking it constantly, or use a QD can if you enjoy shooting. The simple fact is that threaded cans need to be checked for loosening, while good QD cans should have no issue. If you want to nitpick, fine, but I've been helping the guy out before you jumped jumped on that. I have to assume your time is better spent answering the OP's question. |
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There isn't a damn thing wrong with a threaded can on a semi or full auto gun. In fact, a threaded can WILL be more accurate and repeatable than a quick-detach can. Threaded cans coming loose because the bolt carrier slams back and forth ? That's 'gotta be one of the dumbest things I've ever heard. They come loose when dipshits don't screw them on tight enough or forget to check them periodically.
BCG smashing back and forth = vibrations = can loosens. Thanks for calling me a dipshit though, that's pretty damn uncalled for when I'm offering technical advice. Sorry but there was nothing "technical" about your advice. It's wrong. Period. Do you seriously believe the expansion, contraction, heat, pressure, blast, barrel harmonics, etc... are overshadowed by "bolt carrier virbrations" ?
I'll repeat what I posted before. That's the dumbest thing I've ever heard. I wasn't calling you a dipshit directly. ANYONE who sends a bullet through the side of their $850 suppressor IS a dipshit for not paying attention to details and for not screwing a can on tight enough. What IS uncalled for though... is your inaccurate "technical advice". This is the kind of stupid stuff I hear every day across my gun counter. Ok, how about this? Use a threaded can if you enjoy checking it constantly, or use a QD can if you enjoy shooting. The simple fact is that threaded cans need to be checked for loosening, while good QD cans should have no issue. If you want to nitpick, fine, but I've been helping the guy out before you jumped jumped on that. I have to assume your time is better spent answering the OP's question. the guys looking for a cheap 308 can. first thing that does is nix a quick detach. I threaded can is fine. screw it on, shoot a few rounds cinch it down again, keep shooting and check it every 20 rounds or so. A properly threaded barrel that has a tight thread will have less loosening Ever try a MAC can with course threads? |
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There isn't a damn thing wrong with a threaded can on a semi or full auto gun. In fact, a threaded can WILL be more accurate and repeatable than a quick-detach can. Threaded cans coming loose because the bolt carrier slams back and forth ? That's 'gotta be one of the dumbest things I've ever heard. They come loose when dipshits don't screw them on tight enough or forget to check them periodically.
BCG smashing back and forth = vibrations = can loosens. Thanks for calling me a dipshit though, that's pretty damn uncalled for when I'm offering technical advice. Sorry but there was nothing "technical" about your advice. It's wrong. Period. Do you seriously believe the expansion, contraction, heat, pressure, blast, barrel harmonics, etc... are overshadowed by "bolt carrier virbrations" ?
I'll repeat what I posted before. That's the dumbest thing I've ever heard. I wasn't calling you a dipshit directly. ANYONE who sends a bullet through the side of their $850 suppressor IS a dipshit for not paying attention to details and for not screwing a can on tight enough. What IS uncalled for though... is your inaccurate "technical advice". This is the kind of stupid stuff I hear every day across my gun counter. Ok, how about this? Use a threaded can if you enjoy checking it constantly, or use a QD can if you enjoy shooting. The simple fact is that threaded cans need to be checked for loosening, while good QD cans should have no issue. If you want to nitpick, fine, but I've been helping the guy out before you jumped jumped on that. I have to assume your time is better spent answering the OP's question. the guys looking for a cheap 308 can. first thing that does is nix a quick detach. I threaded can is fine. screw it on, shoot a few rounds cinch it down again, keep shooting and check it every 20 rounds or so. A properly threaded barrel that has a tight thread will have less loosening Ever try a MAC can with course threads? Did you read the whole thread? A page back, the OP said he's looking between the Cyclone, the 762-SD, and the YHM Phantom. There's a QD can listed in that, and it costs the same as the Cyclone. Add $75-$100 for a Blackout. At an extra $75, and the fact that the OP has specifically stated interest in that can, I don't think that nixes a quick detach. 
I haven't shot a MAC can with coarse threads, but I imagine they could get loose fast. |
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Will a .30 cal thread on can work on a 5.56? hell yes. just remeber that most 308 are 5/8x24 and most 223 are 1/2x28 Solution:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_7_118/888128_1_2_28_to_5_8_24_Thread_Adapters.html |
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My AAC SD has never disapointed me, even when shooting around other mfg cans It also has min shift, which I attribute to good barrel threading (as with all cans) I have the AAC HD as well but I think i will give the sd6 a try, I will probably get a coupleof them and use them as My go to gen purpose can form now on. |
| I'm thinking the SD now. I do understand the benefit of QD, but... Idk. It's a fair amount more money. I need to think on it. I'll almost never shoot my 308 rapid semi auto, though I do that with my piston AR all the time, and that will definitely get a chance to wear the can |
| It is funny how fast threads get sideways and internet fist fights break out. I guess the term, "I respectfully disagree" does not have much traction anymore. Thread on cans DO come loose during shooting, especially during rapid fire strings. Dragracer_Art, I too am a 72, and I respectfully disagree. At 6'2" and 220, I have a fairly descent gorilla grip and thread the cans on extremely tight. I still have to reach up and check them and give them a little torque. I also find no truth in the statement that thread-on cans are more accurate than QD cans. Bottom line is everyone has opinions that are subjective. My statements reflect my time behind a rifle with a thread on can attached. |
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It is funny how fast threads get sideways and internet fist fights break out. I guess the term, "I respectfully disagree" does not have much traction anymore. Thread on cans DO come loose during shooting, especially during rapid fire strings. Dragracer_Art, I too am a 72, and I respectfully disagree. At 6'2" and 220, I have a fairly descent gorilla grip and thread the cans on extremely tight. I still have to reach up and check them and give them a little torque. I also find no truth in the statement that thread-on cans are more accurate than QD cans. Bottom line is everyone has opinions that are subjective. My statements reflect my time behind a rifle with a thread on can attached. I shoot 3 gun with my thread on can all the time. I also run around pig hunting all over the ranch in back of jeep. I have never had my thread on can come loose. I take my can off to clean the threads about every 500 rounds.. Alot times there carbon built up on threads from shooting bunch and it really hard to get off. This is just from my personal experience. |
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It is funny how fast threads get sideways and internet fist fights break out. I guess the term, "I respectfully disagree" does not have much traction anymore. Thread on cans DO come loose during shooting, especially during rapid fire strings. Dragracer_Art, I too am a 72, and I respectfully disagree. At 6'2" and 220, I have a fairly descent gorilla grip and thread the cans on extremely tight. I still have to reach up and check them and give them a little torque. I also find no truth in the statement that thread-on cans are more accurate than QD cans. Bottom line is everyone has opinions that are subjective. My statements reflect my time behind a rifle with a thread on can attached. Understood... and I didn't come here to crank anyone's nipples. We can all agree to disagree. 
My biggest gripe was the claim that "bolt vibrations" will cause a can to come loose. That couldn't be further from the truth... It's complete hogwash and my argument 'kinda went off track from there anyway. 
I don't have the time, nor the interest in digging up old threads or links on the subject... and quite frankly I just don't care.
I've had thread-on cans turn loose on me just like anyone else... but I'm also aware of numerous cases where QD cans come loose too. As far as accuracy concerns... I figured it was fairly common knowledge that a thread-on can will be inherently more accurate than a QD can for a number of reasons, especially on a precision bolt gun, which really doesn't apply in this case anyway so it's a moot point. Again, I don't really care enough about the subject to dig up old thread and links about it.
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| I'm calling BS. Absent proof, the claim that a QD can is less accurate than an analagous thread-on can is bunk. There is only one possible variable that comes to mind that could be claimed to be causative, but it could be alleviated if it were found to be a problem. |
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I'm working on my first AR-308 build, and I'll be picking up a can for it when I'm done. I'm pretty stingy when it comes to spending, so I want to do this as cheap as possible, within reason. What do the good people of AR15.com consider to be a can of reasonable quality that's a great deal as far as price goes? So far the YHM 7.62 seems good, but 600 something is still alot of money. If weight is not a significant concern...then this is a great choice. I use the YHM 762 Phantom on many host weapons of different calibers up to and including a 300WM. The QDs are made for any number of thread pitch options and work on many platforms. The rachet system on the QD works great. You'll need a glove after 10+ rounds of 5.56 or 7.62 to check the can for fit due to heat. It's heavy...but that has a plus with regard to durability. |
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I'm working on my first AR-308 build, and I'll be picking up a can for it when I'm done. I'm pretty stingy when it comes to spending, so I want to do this as cheap as possible, within reason. What do the good people of AR15.com consider to be a can of reasonable quality that's a great deal as far as price goes? So far the YHM 7.62 seems good, but 600 something is still alot of money. ***SORRY...DOUBLE TAP***If weight is not a significant concern...then this is a great choice. I use the YHM 762 Phantom on many host weapons of different calibers up to and including a 300WM. The QDs are made for any number of thread pitch options and work on many platforms. The rachet system on the QD works great. You'll need a glove after 10+ rounds of 5.56 or 7.62 to check the can for fit due to heat. It's heavy...but that has a plus with regard to durability. |
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