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Posted: 4/16/2014 12:50:10 PM EDT
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So I have been developing a 223 load utilizing Nosler's 64 grain BSB for my AR. I have been using my RCBS full length die set to do so and seating the bullet to 2.175" as per Nosler's load data which is on the cannelure of the bullet. I have not been roll crimping with the die during this process.
Now my question. Has anybody here ever removed the seating plug from the RCBS die and went back after the fact and used this die to apply a little bit of crimp? I have decent neck tension already so I don't believe it's an absolute necessity to crimp, but regardless thought it might be nice to try and do so to reduce the possibility of set back in the AR. I don't have the Lee FCD and don't plan on ordering one until later down the line until I have enough items on my shopping list to justify the shipping of such order. My cases are trimmed uniformly so I would think it should work. I only ask because I never read anywhere of anyone doing this. |
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Quoted: So I have been developing a 223 load utilizing Nosler's 64 grain BSB for my AR. I have been using my RCBS full length die set to do so and seating the bullet to 2.175" as per Nosler's load data which is on the cannelure of the bullet. I have not been roll crimping with the die during this process. Now my question. Has anybody here ever removed the seating plug from the RCBS die and went back after the fact and used this die to apply a little bit of crimp? I have decent neck tension already so I don't believe it's an absolute necessity to crimp, but regardless thought it might be nice to try and do so to reduce the possibility of set back in the AR. I don't have the Lee FCD and don't plan on ordering one until later down the line until I have enough items on my shopping list to justify the shipping of such order. My cases are trimmed uniformly so I would think it should work. I only ask because I never read anywhere of anyone doing this. You could do that. Some will seat and crimp at the same time. Myself, I seat bullets with one die and if I'm going to crimp, use a separate crimp die. In 223, I only crimp FMJ bullets with a cannelure. |
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I agree with dryflash.
Having your cases trimmed to a uniform length is the key to consistent roll crimping. I have not had the opportunity to closely examine a .223 taper crimp die so really can't comment on it. The way reloading tools are named these days its better not to. If it truly is a taper like a 9mm pistol taper crimp die I can't see how it could move enough case metal into the canalure to form a effective crimp. But it may not be like that at all. The Lee FCD would be my 1st choice. JM2c |
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Quoted: Why do you say this? I was under the impression that a roll crimp was acceptable with cannelured bullets. Quoted: Quoted: Don't roll crimp though, taper crimp Why do you say this? I was under the impression that a roll crimp was acceptable with cannelured bullets. With a roll crimp case length is very important. Rifle or pistol rounds. Short case = less crimp. Cannelure will be above crimp. Long case = too much crimp and maybe a buckled shoulder and round will not chamber. Might not see cannelure because it's in the neck. Then there will be the "little short or little long" cases where the crimp will vary and cannelure not be centered on the case mouth. A Lee FCD crimps with a collet and case length is not nearly as critical. Within reason. The Dillon taper crimp die is a very nice piece of equipment. Same results as a Lee FCD, but you don't see any crimp mark on case. |
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