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Posted: 11/1/2005 11:32:34 AM EDT
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I have one of the DSA carbines they build from parts kits. I bought it during the ban. It has a muzzle brake soldered on, I assume. I don't see any evidence of a blind pin. There are threads under there correct? Is there a way to cut it off so I can put a FH on? I don't have access to a torch to heat it up, but I am a whiz with a dremmel. Can I just cut it in half? Will the threads be salvageable? I don’t want to start cutting unless I know there is light at the end of the tunnel. Thanks. ETA: I just tried to order a FH from DSA, in the event that I am successful removing the brake mentioned above, and it was $19.95. When I tried to place my order, which came to $27.95 with the $8.00 shipping charge, it said the order could not be filled because my total, without shipping, was not $20.00 or more, which is their minimum order total. Are you fucking kidding me? Anyone have a LH threaded FAL FH for sale? |
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Ask here. www.falfiles.com/forums/index.php?s= Not knowing what kind of brake you've got, it's hard to tell you how to remove it. Do a search, just about every brake has well documented removal instructions somewhere on the site. does it look like this one? www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=148851&highlight=dsa+muzzle Or it it like one of these abortions? |
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I removed a DSA muzzle brake on, um, Sunday, I think. Maybe Saturday. Silver soldered No blind pin. Heat up with MAPP gas torch and spin right off. Had reverse thread (metric style). It was the type with three large holes at 3 o'clock and 3 at 9 o'clock. ETA: If you want, I have a Belgian short FH you can have. PM me where in TX. I'll mail the thing to you. It's missing the o ring for launching grenades, but other than that, it's in fine condition. The finish is charcoal grey, not as black as the DSA stuff. |
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If you call DSA, they can probably tell you if they soldered or pinned. My brake was soldered only, no pin. I imagine they do it the same with all of them. Offer still stands for the Belgian short if you want - I'm not using it. I was playing with it a little over the weekend. I can even throw in my old brake if you want some more ballast! 
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kk7 is right. Heat it with MAPP gas an it should spin right off. There's an excellent post on the FALFiles, that I can't find right now, about how to do this. It has great pictures. If I remember right only the back of the muzzle brake has any solder so you don't need to heat the whole thing. The guy who posted the pics removed a full length STOLL brake and the barrel under the brake was unfinished, so be prepared to clean that up too. It's not so much that you'll have to refinish from the heat, although you may, as the likelyhood that what's under the brake you have now isn't finished. |
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Would there be an overall length issue with the DSA carbine? I don't have the rifle with me at the moment, but does anyone know how long the bbls are without a muzzle attachment? I'll dig around on the net. DSA does not list the exact bbl length. Hopefully the bbl itself is 16" so I don't have to pin the FH. It's the DSA STG58 carbine DSA sold during the ban if anyone has one or knows offhand. |
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Hey, all, I measured a DS Arms 18" barrel to 18.25", but there's only one way of knowing how long it really is. If you need to permanently attach a FH to it, I recommend Brownell's Fusion silver solder. Stuff works like a champ and flows really well. It's in a paste form, premixed with flux, and you can do the following: Degrease everything really good Pack some Fusion just behind and in among the threads Screw on your new FH Pack some more fusion around the back of the FH Heat it with a MAPP gas torch until the FH glows and the solder flows Here's the barrel I did on Sunday - note the silver ring on the barrel is where the solder was on the brake. The brake is in the pic as well as your new FH, Z. This particular barrel is parked to the muzzle, but you never can tell what you'll get until you get the old FH off. Good luck! 
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I'm fairly sure my bbl is 16 1/4" so no issues with pinning or soldering I'm gonna check with a smith here to see about getting the brake off, then use the Belgian as it is, no pinning or soldering. The finish on the rifle is still perfect from DSA. Can I just refinish the end of the bbl? I don't care if the finish does not match exactly. Thanks again. That really is so cool of you. ETA: How far does the Belgian extend (sleve) over the bbl? |
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Basic question here. What is the functional difference between the flash hider and the brake in the pic above? I assume the flash hider angles the blast out and forward, because the holes are angled, and the brake holes have no angle to them, so the blast is directed out and to the side/back? I guess I have only seen FHs with large slots (A2 birdcage, Phantom) or with tines like a Vortex. I always associate holes with brakes. Is it the angle the holes are cut at? How effective is the Belgian FH? |
You can, or you can just spray it down with something, if you want. It's all good. 
That FH didn't cost me anything - And we need to get your FAL right. It's just not right having a not right FAL. 
About 1 7/8 inch. It extends almost to the point where the muzzle is to where the ports are.
Well, the FH doesn't annoy the people shooting next to me as much! The brake puts muzzle blast all over the people to either side of me. 
Precisely!
Well, the Belgian short FH does a lot of things. It acts as a grenade launcher, has a spot for a blank firing adapter, and mounts your zombie sticker. Just by being a FH with all this, it's four evil features in one. That's neat in and of itself. I figure the shortie Austrian style FH probably works better, but I really like the originals. I'm not reducing this photo, and my photography stinks and my workbench is messy right now, but here you go: From left to right: Belgian short FH with Zombie Sticker attached G1 FH FSE fake Belgian Short but a Muzzle Brake Your new FH (note, you can see the bayo notch in the back of the FH in this view) DSA brake  |
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Success! I took the upper to a local welder, and we got the brake off. That torch really heats things up fast I must say. I was surprised. Now the inevitable questions for those who have done this before. The last inch of the bbl was glowing orange when we took the brake off, now I realize that this is not a precision weapon, but will/did this have any effect on the bbl alignment or the atomic structure of the bbl? I let the bbl air cool. No water was used to cool it. Everything looks fine, but I am curious if anyone has noticed an accuracy decline with a bbl that has been heated up to this degree around the muzzle. I really have no clue about these things, so it's mainly basic curiosity. ETA: I know, I know...Get off your ass and go shoot the thing, then you can tell us! |
Shouldn't. I've gotten the barrels on some M16s and M60s glowing before and they kept on trucking. Basically, if it's just a dull orange glow, it's no big deal. If it's a real bright glow, that could be a bit much. ETA - I just got the shipment from DSA and got off my con calls - I'll make the post office tomorrow so expect a package whenever the postal service shows up. Rate they've been going lately, maybe a month or so... 
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Well, now i'm curious. What would be the nature of the damage of externally heating a bbl? Up to the point where the bbl begins to actually deform and melt, what damage would be caused? Obviously it would expand from the heat, and if you cooled it suddenly with water, I believe it would crystalize and become fragile. But if you got it say white hot, and then let it air cool, it would simply cool naturally and return to its previous state correct? Just heating it, then not suddenly cooling it or striking it with a hammer, but just letting it air cool, I don't see how it would be damaged. I am assuming it is a non-chrome lined bbl. I would imagine the chrome could be damaged from heat. Any ideas? |
I index my bayo notch at the 6 o'clock position. That also puts the flaming gas ports offset from the front sight, which is probably a good thing. As far as the previous barrel heating question, wow, I don't know enough about metallurgy to answer it.  Glad it made it ok! I'm surprised it arrived so fast. I only mailed on Thursday afternoon! I took my new para build out this afternoon and shot it at a range just east of Austin. I'm very pleased with this build.
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Z, The one you have is the same as the 002D Belgian Type Short Flash Hider I think you may be looking at the 002DOSW, which is the Belgian Type OSW Flash Hider. I think OSW stands for Obscenely Short Weapon. You can see a photo of the OSW under their Tactical Series for rifles. The one I sent you, if I remember correctly, is a pull from an Imbel kit, well, I figure that's about all it can be, since I know about when I got it and the only kits at that time that had Belgian type FHs on them were Imbels. |
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That's cool. The pic of the 002D on DSA's site looks different than the FH you sent me. The more I look at it though, I think it is just the location of the wrench flats that is different. The flats are farther forward on the FH in the pic on DSA's site. They are up closer to where the threads are, where as yours has the flats farther back. No issue really, I was just curious. The FH looks great by the way. Thanks again. |
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