Armory Sponsor
Posted: 3/1/2012 4:53:05 AM EDT
|
I picked-up this Daewoo DR200 yesterday for $575.00 OTD. Not a screaming deal but not bad I guess. It was imported by Kimber. The owner claimed he only took it out a couple times and by the look of the wear on the internals that looks to be the case.
The former owner put a fixed Ace 922r compliance stock/fire control group kit on it some years ago. It came with it's box (surprised it lasted this long) and the butthole stock, scope mount. Korean marked M14-type black cotton sling, and manual. I added a bayonet lug so I could use a TDI accessory block on the lug for a bi-pod if I scope it later. A M-7 bayonet fits on it fine but I don't think I want to poke anyone with it much though. 
I had a K2 back in the day when they were first imported (paid under $400.00 for it) and always regreted selling it as it was a great weapon. Meh... $1400 bucks looked good back in the early 90s. Lord only knows how many rounds I but through it with 0 issues. It even liked SP ammo and I hope this one does too as I have a case of Win. 55gr. SP. I might get a low scope mount for it and perhaps a 90 degree selector from Stormwerks. I'm not bothered about a folder as I like the fixed stock. I don't plan on removing the soldered-on fake flash-hider as I kind of like the look. I've seen much worse looking ban-era fake flash hiders. Add to that as it is coned on the inside (like a Brit jungle carbine) so it should do a passable job at flash-hiding anyway. Parts don't worry me much as about the only thing I've ever heard of breaking was the firing pin and they are available now. BTW.....If someone can get me a pic of the bottom of a K2's bayonet lug or just tell me if there is a vent hole going through it and into the bottom of the front sight base I would appreciate it. There was a hole in the bottom of the DR200's base that I threaded to mount the lug and I want to make sure it was not there for a reason like weeping away heat or something. A AR's lug is solid so at the time I did not consider it. The lug I put on it can be easily removed with no harm to the weapon. 
|
| I would actually prefer that to a K2, I had a K2 and the stock dimensions didn't work right for me. If I could put a shorter ACE stock on a DR-200 it would probably work better for me. I liked the design of the gun it just didn't fit me right. Good deal, I'd have bought it. |
|
For giggles I put the supplied scope mount on it and found the only scope I could put on it that was low enough for a good cheek weld and at the same time clear the rear sight and not show a ghost of the front sight tower was a old leupold M8 X 3 I had laying around. This scope/mount/med ring combination worked fine. I would use higher quality rings if I decided to scope it.
I just sort of mocked it up to see as I remembered the K2 I had with a B-square mount would not do well with a 4X32 due to the front sight post. A 4X32 K4 weaver I put on it did the same. I think I may get a low mount from Stormwerks as they are set a bit forward to allow a pistol-type red-dot to co-witness with the irons. BTW....P-Mags work fine in it. 
|
|
I went down to my range and ran some M193 and 55gr Win. Super-X SP through it. I was right tickled with the Win. given my old eyes. The guy that had it before me did a good job sighting it in. It could go up a hair but I figured I'd leave well enough alone. The M193's groups were not as impressive at near 3" excluding a flyer but I sort of expected that. The Win. was always very accurate out of a 24" barreled BM Varminteer I used to have. I only ran 40 rounds total. No issues at all. Not that it matters with a semi 5.56 but recoil is a bit stronger than a 20" AR due to it's lighter weight and gas system and is on par with my A-2 CAR. The only thing on the DR200 I don't care for when I think back and compare it to my old K2 is that darn take-down latch lock. The K2 did not have one and my Maglite sized fingers fumble for it. I have not looked it over but I would not mind removing it. LOL....I forgot how far it will send the empties and how easy the Daewoo is to clean. It's a keeper. |
|
Quoted:
The only thing on the DR200 I don't care for when I think back and compare it to my old K2 is that darn take-down latch lock. The K2 did not have one and my Maglite sized fingers fumble for it. I have not looked it over but I would not mind removing it. http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/download/file.php?id=60241&t=1 what's the difference between the DR200 versus the K2? I thought they were the same rifle, just imported by different companies. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
The only thing on the DR200 I don't care for when I think back and compare it to my old K2 is that darn take-down latch lock. The K2 did not have one and my Maglite sized fingers fumble for it. I have not looked it over but I would not mind removing it. http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/download/file.php?id=60241&t=1 what's the difference between the DR200 versus the K2? I thought they were the same rifle, just imported by different companies. The short story is the K2 had "evil" features like folding stock, removable muzzle device, bayonet lug, and of course the thing that hangs down and the DR200 did not. Pre ban and post ban. Importation stopped at about the same time the Chi-Coms did. |
|
Quoted:
The "muzzle attachment" is silver soldered on. Take a propane torch and heat it up and it will come off to be replaced by an A2 or A1 flash hider. You will need at least 2 or 3 washers to fill in the gap. You need MAP gas to properly melt the 1200 degree high temp solder the device is held on with. I like it as is. The Koreans sorta stole a march on the ban as the inside of the devise is coned and not flat sided thus still making it a effective flash hider. Think Brit jungle carbine flash hider. I see nothing to be gained by removing it. If I was to go through the trouble I'd have the barrel shortened to 16.2". recrowned,threaded, then install a muzzle device. |
|
Congrats on the find, but note that the DR200 was built using barrels with a twist rate of 1:12, so 55 gr ammo will be the most accurate. I had a DR200 that would shoot 3" or 4" groups of 632 gr ammo at 100 yds, but would keyhole at 200 yds. The 55 gr stuff was about 1.25 MOA all the way.
The K2 / AR100 version had a 1:7+ twist, almost 1:8. Enjoy, Noah |
|
Quoted:
Where did you get the add-on bayonet lug? I made it up from a lug from a one of those bolt-on pencil barrel baynoet lugs I got in a lot of parts years ago. I just cut the lug off, drilled a hole up through it then threaded the hole on the Woo's lug area between the pins and used a screw I placed there as a stud to mount the lug on, applied JB Weld and clamped it till cured. I used a wire wheel on a dremel to tidy-up the JB weld. Looks seamless. The color was way off between the JB/lug and sight tower so I mixed some flat white/black Rustolem till I got the color I wanted to match the tower and just painted the lug and the JB with a small modeler's brush. So far so good after 40 rounds. If it cracks the JB I'll just remove it. No harm done. |
|
I had a guy give me a YHM flash hider so I decided to replace the fake one. I called my Smith and he told me he would take it off (with my help) for $10.00.
We ended-up useing Acetylene instead of MAP and it came right off with minimal discoloration because we wrapped the barrel in a wet cloth. He then took the fake hider and milled the rear off to make a jamb-nut. The close-up looks much worse than in-hand. I think it turned-out real nice and the milling really helped. The price was sure right. 
|
|
Quoted:
I enhanced the Daewoo further by adding a Stormwerks low mount. I put a extra Bushnell Trophy red-dot on it till I find something else. I have a 90 degree selector on the way. I'm still torn on if I want to put a folder on it or not. http://oi41.tinypic.com/w9bdzq.jpg I would. |
|
Quoted:
What is a fair price for these rfles in their pre-ban guise? A local shop has had one sitting on the shelf for about a month for $600. I don't really need one but seeing the upgrades yup guys have added to yours has got me thinking. I sold a K2 last year for around $1100. For a DR200 I would guess $600-700 in original shape and around $800 converted. Maybe higher or lower regionally. $600 sounds like a good price for any of them unless it's real beat. |
|
I ordered the folding mechanism for the Woo from Stormwerks and it arrived today. Easy installation on my existing ACE fixed stock block.
It did add 3/4" to to the over-all stock length but it's fine. If it proves to be a issue it's easy enough to shorten the ACE stock. As to the mechanism itself it is rock solid, locks in both open and folded postion and can be moved to the right or left side. Very well made and finished. I opted for the stock to fold to the left as the stock would have interfered with the ejection port. When folded it does not hit against the side of the weapon. It locks about 1/16" away from the side of the weapon at the closest point near the chamber area. It does not interfere with the selector. Another nice thing is there is a .25" adjustment where you can adjust the ACE stock higher for a better cheek weld for scope use. 
|
|
I sold a K2 last year for around $1100. For a DR200 I would guess $600-700 in original shape and around $800 converted. Maybe higher or lower regionally. $600 sounds like a good price for any of them unless it's real beat.
I was wrong. They have it listed for $799. It's in nice shape but definitely not mint. No thanks. |
| I bought a DR200 for $700 that was fully converted a few months ago. Unfortunely, the person who did the conversion hit the threads with a Dremal cut off wheel. The muzzle was still good and the threads still worked, but I wanted to have it rethreaded. I got a quote for $200 for it to be chopped back to 16" and threaded for a suppressor. But before I had it sent off for the thread/chop work, I found a K2 barrled upper for $400. So I bought it and sold off the original for $200 or so. Now I have a fully converted DR-200 lower with a K-2 upper (1/7 twist & bayonet lug) for $900. |
Armory Sponsor