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Posted: 5/2/2011 7:54:36 AM EDT
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Background. I got several bunches of cases from Dick Cheney surplus for me and friends. They are very dirty, with actual dirt, some type of lube(nasty) that collects grit, and smoked necks that the lube tends to mix with. No way I would run these through a size die. They will not tumble clean, and I didn't want the primer in the case when I started to liquid clean the cases. I already had the crimp die, since the only 50bmg rifles I have are mag-fed and I control neck tension with specific diameter expander plug and a crimp. I make no apologies for technique, it works for me.
The decapping pin is 7/16" drill rod with the decapping end turned for size to the flash hole, 1/8" IIRC. This set-up has gone over 1000 cases so-far. I originally thought that when the decapping pin broke I would drill it out and use a 1/8" roll pin, but so-far no break or bend. The body to hold the drill rod with a roll pin is designed to shoulder on the ramp that closes the crimp die and so far shows no wear on the holding body or the shoulder. The internal shoulder is step tapered and I used the step as a mechanical stop for the holding body. If you wanted to try using the bolt to hold the decapper, that is a way to go too. Threading the holding fixture and using the lee decapping pin is also doable. The 1/4"-20thd bolt simply keeps this rig from falling out of the die and allows rotation, which it does when working. OBTW, if there is primer hole flash in the case, the taper in the decapping pin, will lay it over, and in my mind at least keeps from having to de-burr the hole. You can set the die appropriately to lay over the flash and not damage the case. The actual part that forms the crimp is held in the die by spring pressure on the forming fingers, an an appropriate sized socket and mallet will tap it right out of the die body. Published second (FCSA 1st) here - go for it Lee Precision, public domain now. http://s1083.photobucket.com/albums/j397/lghjr/?start=all |
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