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Posted: 3/30/2014 9:23:03 AM EDT
| Hey guys I have done a lot research and I really cant get a strait answer. I am waiting for my RCBS Rock Chucker supreme master delux kit, case trimmer, lee fcd, and RCBS 223 standard die set. I really would like to know how to set up my sizing die and bullet seat die properly. I also have a digital caliper. |
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Quoted:
Hey guys I have done a lot research and I really cant get a strait answer. I am waiting for my RCBS Rock Chucker supreme master delux kit, case trimmer, lee fcd, and RCBS 223 standard die set. I really would like to know how to set up my sizing die and bullet seat die properly. I also have a digital caliper. The die instructions are a good place to start. The case gauge will ensure that you have them sized to the correct specification, i.e. the sizer die is set up correctly. Otherwise get a good manual to use as reference. |
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I do not have a headspace gauge for the shells but i do have an experienced friend who is gonna break it down for me and show me what not to do. Then you'll want to ask him to bring a case gage or headspace gauge with him, and get dies sorted so that you never need to reset them. The only option I'm aware of for that would be to add LnL bushings + insert for your press, plus some good (Hornady lock rings are the best, IMO) lock rings. Or...buy a case and/or headspace gauge, as every time you change dies, your settings are lost. |
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Put the shellholder in the press, raise the ram all the way up.
Screw the die down till it touches the holder, lower ram, screw die down 1/8th turn more. Lube and size a case. If for an AR-15: Remove rear take-down pin, break open firearm, pull charging handle back then push it back in to locked position. The BCG should be back exposing the chamber. Insert case in chamber and push with thumb on rear of BCG. If bolt locks without too much pressure it's GTG. Most likely it won't. Screw die down another 1/8th turn, resize and repeat chambering. When you get to where the bolt locks and the shell extracts easily you're good. To maximize case life you only want to size JUST ENOUGH to chamber and extract. If for a bolt gun: Lube and size a case, insert it in the chamber and try to close the bolt. If it won't close easily, screw the die down 1/8th turn, resize, chamber and extract. Repeat till it closes and extracts easily. That's it, pretty simple. If you think you've sized too much, back the die out till the bolt won't close, then repeat the above steps with a different case. |
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Easiest thing to do without a headspace gauge is color the shoulder of a piece of brass
with a black magic marker/sharpie. Raise the ram on the press and screw the die down until it touches. Lower the ram, turn the die in another 1/8th turn and lock down. Lube and size your case. If there is not a ring in the ink on the shoulder, slowly adjust the die down until there is. Then verify it will chamber in your rifle. |
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Ok I dont understand. The instuctions and you guys say screw the sizing die down till it touches the ram and shell holder and then screw DOWN another 1/8th turn but this video says the opposite.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LttBArZcQ9g Scroll to about 5 min and 50 sec |
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Quoted:
Ok I dont understand. The instuctions and you guys say screw the sizing die down till it touches the ram and shell holder and then screw DOWN another 1/8th turn but this video says the opposite. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LttBArZcQ9g Scroll to about 5 min and 50 sec Sizing die setup is going to require you to thread the die in beyond contact. Not the case with flaring or seating dies. |
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Ok I dont understand. The instuctions and you guys say screw the sizing die down till it touches the ram and shell holder and then screw DOWN another 1/8th turn but this video says the opposite. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LttBArZcQ9g Scroll to about 5 min and 50 sec Link made hot. I'm not going to look at the video right now, but die set up is dependent on the press design and the type of dies used. For example, cranking a pistol sizer die down with a carbide ring down hard can crack the ring, ruining the die. We can get you sorted out, if you will slow down and listen to the advice here. Limit the background noise until you get your press and other stuff, get them set up, and then start working through the set ups with the equipment. A gage of some type can cut down on redo's and confusion. I recommend the type that measures the distance between a shoulder datum and the case head because it allows better control of the sizing. Drop in gages work, but they cause the sizer to be set up to dimension determined by the gage maker. Lots of ammunition has been loaded without either. The best way to do that is by using the firearm as the gage. AeroE |
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This is the way I've done it for over 30 years. I've never owned a comparator or a head space gauge and have never had a problem. For bolt guns I just neck size only until the brass starts to get tight when closing. Then it's time to full length size and I just use the instructions that came with the dies. I feel that I'm not anywhere near being a professional shooter/loader but if I can put 5 shots on steel at 5" apart at 500 yards with just some plinking ammo then I'm doing something somewhat right............
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Put the shellholder in the press, raise the ram all the way up. Screw the die down till it touches the holder, lower ram, screw die down 1/8th turn more. Lube and size a case. If for an AR-15: Remove rear take-down pin, break open firearm, pull charging handle back then push it back in to locked position. The BCG should be back exposing the chamber. Insert case in chamber and push with thumb on rear of BCG. If bolt locks without too much pressure it's GTG. Most likely it won't. Screw die down another 1/8th turn, resize and repeat chambering. When you get to where the bolt locks and the shell extracts easily you're good. To maximize case life you only want to size JUST ENOUGH to chamber and extract. If for a bolt gun: Lube and size a case, insert it in the chamber and try to close the bolt. If it won't close easily, screw the die down 1/8th turn, resize, chamber and extract. Repeat till it closes and extracts easily. That's it, pretty simple. If you think you've sized too much, back the die out till the bolt won't close, then repeat the above steps with a different case. |
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Well why does this guy in the video screw the die out a 1/4 to half turn and others are saying screw die down 1/8 to quarter turn. Man I just dont get it. The question of proper sizing die adjustment comes up very frequently and the answer is always to turn the die down more after it contacts the shell holder. The die manufacturers may not be taking into consideration slop or flex in the press when they specify screwing the die down to the shell holder. If you do not screw it down the additional 1/8 to whatever amount needed, the die will not bump the shoulder on the case back sufficiently. This will keep the case from chambering in the rifle. You can use the headspce gauge Dryflash has pictured above, one of the many case gauges available on the market, or you can use the chamber in your firearm to determine if you have sized the case sufficiently. In the video he is only addressing the case tension required to hold the bullet. It's possible he is not using a Full Length sizing die. or he may be using the Full Length sizing die as a Neck sizing die by backing it out. |
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Quoted:
The question of proper sizing die adjustment comes up very frequently and the answer is always to turn the die down more after it contacts the shell holder. The die manufacturers may not be taking into consideration slop or flex in the press when they specify screwing the die down to the shell holder. If you do not screw it down the additional 1/8 to whatever amount needed, the die will not bump the shoulder on the case back sufficiently. This will keep the case from chambering in the rifle. You can use the headspce gauge Dryflash has pictured above, one of the many case gauges available on the market, or you can use the chamber in your firearm to determine if you have sized the case sufficiently. In the video he is only addressing the case tension required to hold the bullet. It's possible he is not using a Full Length sizing die. or he may be using the Full Length sizing die as a Neck sizing die by backing it out. Quoted:
Quoted:
Well why does this guy in the video screw the die out a 1/4 to half turn and others are saying screw die down 1/8 to quarter turn. Man I just dont get it. The question of proper sizing die adjustment comes up very frequently and the answer is always to turn the die down more after it contacts the shell holder. The die manufacturers may not be taking into consideration slop or flex in the press when they specify screwing the die down to the shell holder. If you do not screw it down the additional 1/8 to whatever amount needed, the die will not bump the shoulder on the case back sufficiently. This will keep the case from chambering in the rifle. You can use the headspce gauge Dryflash has pictured above, one of the many case gauges available on the market, or you can use the chamber in your firearm to determine if you have sized the case sufficiently. In the video he is only addressing the case tension required to hold the bullet. It's possible he is not using a Full Length sizing die. or he may be using the Full Length sizing die as a Neck sizing die by backing it out. my guess - can't watch the video right now though |
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If you are basing your equipment list on the video you referenced, there are a few other things you may also need to get.
Not a must, but if you are reloading a lot either a wet or dry tumbler to clean your brass before you size it and after to remove the lube. Depending on the brass you use, you may need to remove the primer crimp on mil spec brass before you can prime it. Either a reamer or swaging tool will work. Take a good look at the tacked information at the top of the Reloading Forum for good insight on procedures and equipment. |
| Well thanks a lot guys. I will do what you guys say. I didn't take in consideration that the ram will cam over so I will start with 1/8th of a turn down after it touches the shell holder. I think I am ready to start now. Have been watching youtube videos all day. |
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Here's a good video that helps understanding: http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/GunTech/default.aspx
Scroll down the menu on the right until you see "Sinclair-Case sizing, Part 1" |
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Quoted: Well thanks a lot guys. I will do what you guys say. I didn't take in consideration that the ram will cam over so I will start with 1/8th of a turn down after it touches the shell holder. I think I am ready to start now. Have been watching youtube videos all day. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/479704/hornady-lock-n-load-headspace-gage-5-bushing-set-with-comparator this is the tool attacked to the caliper in my first post. It does all calibers. A case gauge (silver thing in my pic) only does 1 caliber. You measure a few cases fired in your AR. This is what my chamber measures. Then you adjust sizing die to set shoulder back .003. This way you don't over size your cases like the die instructions have you do.
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Quoted: Worse case scenerio if the case is over sized is stuck case right? Not gonna blow me up? A ka boom is caused by an improper powder charge. Over sized cases stretch and separate in just a couple loadings. But size case correctly, and with normal/moderate loads case will last for 6-8 loadings. |
| Cool. I plan on loading with Armscore 55 gr fmj, pmc bronze 223 casings (thats the bulk of my brass) and win 748 or varget. I have some H4198 but have been seeing bad reviews for its burn rate is pretty fast. Any suggestions on a light load with the Armscore 55 gr and win 748 or varget? |
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Cool. I plan on loading with Armscore 55 gr fmj, pmc bronze 223 casings (thats the bulk of my brass) and win 748 or varget. I have some H4198 but have been seeing bad reviews for its burn rate is pretty fast. Any suggestions on a light load with the Armscore 55 gr and win 748 or varget? I have had great success with about 25.5gr of Win748 pushing my 55gr bullets. I got decent results with about 24.4gr of Varget over my 55's, but have stopped using Varget because other powders measure better. Lots of guys use Varget, so I won't say it sucks or that it meters poorly.....just not as good as TAC or Win748 or 8208XBR (or any ball or smaller stick powder). |
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Cool. I plan on loading with Armscore 55 gr fmj, pmc bronze 223 casings (thats the bulk of my brass) and win 748 or varget. I have some H4198 but have been seeing bad reviews for its burn rate is pretty fast. Any suggestions on a light load with the Armscore 55 gr and win 748 or varget? Your answers to some of theca moments make me have to ask this: Do you have ANY reloading books? Load data books? If not, for your own safety, please go get one, preferably more than one. Most will recommend the ABCs of Reloading and Lymans 49th edition. For purely load data (which you only need AFTER you actually know how/why to reload from the preceding books), Lyman's 49th has some, you can get free load data annuals (magazines) from Powder Valley with any order (go into each powder mfgr and 'add one to cart,' it's not automatic), you can get a 'Loakbooks USA" inexpensively for each caliber you plan to reload...and/or buy reloading books from the bullet mfgrs, e.g. Hornady, Nosler, Speer, Sierra ... Some powder mfgrs/distributors also have online or downloadable load data, e.g. Hodgdon Reloading Data I highly suggest getting an actual reloading book to give you an actual understanding of what to ask for clarifications on vs trolling for random load data and ignoring statements telling you that you need a case gage of some kind, etc. |
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Worse case scenerio if the case is over sized is stuck case right? Not gonna blow me up? No, worst case for an over-sized case is reduced case life, not a stuck case. Cases get stuck because they are not properly lubricated. The instructions/process given by Forty5Cal, above, using your rifle's chamber as a gage, are decent but brief instructions. If you don't want to buy the real gage, you should use that process. The video is total crap with respect to sizing die set up. It's pretty, but crap. The instructions that come with dies are rudimentary at best and have caused as many problems as they have solved. |
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