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Posted: 3/12/2015 8:37:49 PM EDT
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ETA, I will only be doing .223. My .300 will be chopped and run through the WFT.
Just Got My 1200 delivered, wanted to double check My set up plan. I was going to run the cases through the de-capping tool head first. Then wet tumble, inspect. Then set up My trimming tool head with the sizing die in station 1, set to about 75% sizing, then the trimmer in station 3. Finish sizing and trim there. I use a Mr. Bulletfeeder, so My loading head is a Lyman M die in station 1, prime/charge in 2, drop bullet in 3, seat in 4, light crimp in 5. I've read of some People using a de-capping die in station1, size/trim in 3, then Lyman M die in 5. This way You are able to run a de-capping die in station1 to clear the flash hole on the loading tool head, after tumbling to remove lube. Any input greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dave. |
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I've read of some People using a de-capping die in station1, size/trim in 3, then Lyman M die in 5. This way You are able to run a de-capping die in station1 to clear the flash hole on the loading tool head, after tumbling to remove lube. Basically the way I do it , decap station 2, size/trim station 6 and M-die station 8. I do my 300blk the same way |
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Quoted: I've read of some People using a de-capping die in station1, size/trim in 3, then Lyman M die in 5. This way You are able to run a de-capping die in station1 to clear the flash hole on the loading tool head, after tumbling to remove lube. The Dillon size die sizes the neck much smaller than needed, so the expander or M die is required. |
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I've just setup my RT1200 in a 550B: Lee decapping in 1, trim in 3. Then swage primer pockets in single stage press. PROBLEMS encountered: I had to taper the rod that the Lee decappng pin is attached to (actually it appears to be part of the rod) because the rod was hitting the edge of the neck. ALSO the RCBS swage rod that enters the case mouth for swaging is .219" diameter and was too large to fit into case mouth (neck diameter had been reduced by trim die - so I had to grind down the swage rod to about .214" diameter. Ain't reloading fun!!! |
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This has been working great for me.
.223 setup on xl650 My set-up is as follows. . . New and improved method requires only one wet cleaning session and two processes. No more depriming stage to wet tumble first. LUBE Brass with shine version of DCL Stage 1 Brass prep tool head Station 1 - Dillon .223 Carbide Sizing/Decapping Die sized to 85% Station 2 - Empty naked to the wind Station 3 - Dillon 1200b Trimmer with custom insert pin and attach vacuum. Trim die set to size the other 15% which makes sure the case does not spin. Station 4 - Empty naked to the wind Station 5 - Lyman M Die -set to knock of any inside burr and put a extreme very slight flare in less than .002 Wet Tumble Cleans off any lube out side and more importantly gets ride of all lube from the inside of the case necks, also pretty much guarantees any burrs left will be gone and makes the cases look brand new. Hornady pocket ream primer pockets if necessary. Stage 2 Loading tool head Station 1 - Lee Universal Decapping Die to clear flash hole of any debri as added insurance. Station 2 - Seat primer, drop powder Station 3 - Dillon Powder Check Station 4 - Redding Competition Pro Seating Die Station 4 - Lee Factory Crimp Die to take out the slight flare from the M die and employ a slight crimp. |
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while a decapping die instation 1 seems like the cheapest option, a better die to use is a cheap neck or full length sizing die to decap. Set it to neck size and decap only. Why????
Well, some loads will dent the crap out of the case mouth. If you dont un-dent the mouth before going into the trim die, you will ruin the brass. I have collected enough duplicate die sets at this point to not be a big deal for me. You will find this method really nice if you buy cases of lake city once fired. Good luck! |
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A Dillon de-capping die will undent the case mouths, seems to be just the right diameter.
I ended up reconfiguring it to be Dillon decap die in 1, trimmer in 4. can't get the locater pin in with it in 3, and the vacuum attachment won't fit with the trimmer in 4 and the Lyman die in 5. |
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Nevermind the above post. I read some more, and went out and modified the vacuum shroud for the pin, and modded the pin, and moved it back to station 3, reinstalled the Lyman M die in 5. Man, that's a bugger trying to adjust the sizing trimming and expanding all at the same time.
I do notice that the trimmer sizing die works a lot better then the plain sizing die. I was able to adjust it so that the case fell perfectly between the steps of the case gauge, and headspaced right where I wanted it. I can't get the regular sizing die to do that on My 650. Anyhow, maybe tomorrow I can make a run.
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I do notice that the trimmer sizing die works a lot better then the plain sizing die. I was able to adjust it so that the case fell perfectly between the steps of the case gauge, and headspaced right where I wanted it. I can't get the regular sizing die to do that on My 650. my carbide sizing die pretty much never leaves the box anymore as it's faster to prep brass with the full trim cycle then to check lengths |
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Quoted:
A Dillon de-capping die will undent the case mouths, seems to be just the right diameter. I ended up reconfiguring it to be Dillon decap die in 1, trimmer in 4. can't get the locater pin in with it in 3, and the vacuum attachment won't fit with the trimmer in 4 and the Lyman die in 5. I thought the same about the lee decapper but it still didnt un-dent the 223 brass enough. I have not used the dillon decap die but no way it will work on 30cal. My 300bo brass comes out dented every time... |
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Quoted:
Nevermind the above post. I read some more, and went out and modified the vacuum shroud for the pin, and modded the pin, and moved it back to station 3, reinstalled the Lyman M die in 5. Man, that's a bugger trying to adjust the sizing trimming and expanding all at the same time.
I do notice that the trimmer sizing die works a lot better then the plain sizing die. I was able to adjust it so that the case fell perfectly between the steps of the case gauge, and headspaced right where I wanted it. I can't get the regular sizing die to do that on My 650. Anyhow, maybe tomorrow I can make a run. ![]() I've been around this block many times and found the best setup for me was what I posted above. Using a full length sizing/decapping die with the expander ball will iron any case mouth dents out. I set it to just be able to pop the primer and squezze the neck just before the shoulder gets hit. When the ball goes through the mouth on the down stroke it flattens out any dents. This is the primary reason I use it. Full size and shoulder set back is the trim dies job. The draw back is that the necks are getting hit twice, but this is ok with me as I now anneal and the necks seem ok with it, also in my opinion, even without annealing the necks I wouldn't see any real appreciable shortentnd case life with all things being equal. I used a common roofing nail with the head clipped on one side and the length shortened for a pin. I slide the prep tool head on the press then install the nail/pin then the vacuum shroud. No need to modify the shroud. These are some of my findings and have been working out nicely for me with minimum effort. |
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