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7/4/2009 5:27:50 AM EDT
I just received my Redding Universal Flash Hole Deburring Tool.  The directions are less specific than I would like.
Should I Full Length Size, Trim and then Debur the Flashholes?  
Where in the reloading process does Flash Hole Deburring Occur and what processes need to proceed it?
I'd appreciate any help you can give.

Thanks.
7/4/2009 5:42:14 AM EDT
[#1]
It is a one time operation.  Does not really matter when you do it, as long as you do it in the same order every time.  Reason being you will set up the depth of the cut and you would not want to set it up on the pre-trim length, then do it after trimming.      

ETA, I am assuming you are talking about NIB brass, all same headstamp.
7/4/2009 5:44:50 AM EDT
[#2]
Flasholes should be deburred after trimming.

When cases are the same length, the stop on the deburrer will be more accurate.

Go easy, very easy to go too deep with flashole deburrer.

Seperate brass by headstamp, not all case webs are equal in thickness.
7/4/2009 7:26:44 AM EDT
[#3]
Speaking about the tool used from the inside.

IF you use a Dillon Swage (w/ military brass)........you might have a problem with the flash hole bur obstructing or partially obstructing the flash path if/when it gets crushed by the support rod.

Doing the uniforming process before or after?

I don't really believe that it matters.........as long as it get's done.  Though, Dryflash has a good recommendation since the tool (ones I've seen) is dependent on the case length.  Then again, some tools may not be dependent on the case length.

Aloha, Mark

PS.......you might find this interesting.......

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=96660#Post96660  


3. Chamfer the INSIDE flash hole. Unless you buy Lapua or some other brass which has drilled flash hole most flash holes are pressed into the brass. This can create a burr on the inside of the case. The effect is rather significant in terms of consistency if you leave it there. The drop in my velocity variations simply by removing this was significant. For this step I like the old RCBS Universal or the current Midway EJS Flash Hole Reamer. I specify these because they index on the web of the case as opposed to the mouth. This is important because you don’t have to trim all your brass to an exact length before hand to get the same depth of chamfer.


My blue added.

http://www.frfrogspad.com/miscellg.htm#accuracy

http://www.6mmbr.com/jgcaseprep.html



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