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Posted: 12/23/2009 6:16:43 PM EDT
| I picked up one of these and read the short instruction on setting it up but it said to leave a .010 gap between the mouth of the case and the stop, I know what they want but am not sure how to gage the space as I don't have pin gages so what would be the best way, I need to prep some Lapua Brass I got early for Christmas (I got the best wife) |
| It is not rocket science. You will very quickly decide how deep is deep enough, as you can feel when it is cutting a burr (it feels bumpy) and when it is cutting uniform metal (a smooth cut all the way around). As usual, consistency is the key. Pick a depth such that the burr is completely removed and lock it at that depth. |
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Quoted:
I picked up one of these and read the short instruction on setting it up but it said to leave a .010 gap between the mouth of the case and the stop, I know what they want but am not sure how to gage the space as I don't have pin gages so what would be the best way, I need to prep some Lapua Brass I got early for Christmas (I got the best wife) You just want to barely remove the burr. A .010 gap sounds like too much to me. Practice on LC, Win cases first. You wouldn't want to ruin that Lapua brass. |
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Quoted:
Don't use that tool in Lapua brass, it won't need to be deburred. There are two ways to set the pilot. Either by eye, or by using a feeler gage. Put the edge of the feeler gage against the stem, run the pilot down to trap the gage, and tighten the pilot. I know it's not tough to do but I thought about putting the brass down on the tip and pushing the pilot up into the mouth until snug then using mics to measure the distance from the flat bottom of the pilot to the top of the handle and then subtract about .005-.007, you said not toy use on these cases but some of them look alittle rough inside |
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The Redding tool is beat for flash hole deburring since it has a built in stop on the cutter that deburr's and chamfers every flash hole the same no matter what the trim length is, and the pilot(caliber specific) is used just to center the tool and not set to bottom out on the case mouth as a length guide.
I have the Lyman, RCBS, & Redding flash hole tools and the Redding is by far the best of the bunch(the Sinclair tool also looks nice and has the stop on the cutter to prevent over cutting), even if the Lapua brass doesn't have any burrs to remove I like the chamfer the tools put on the inside flash hole to help disperse the flash/burn out in a wider pattern instead of a concentrated narrow straight flash from a factory flash hole(just seems like it would give a more complete burn on every round). I do every case match, plinking, & range pick-ups all for consistency if nothing else. |
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