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Posted: 8/1/2009 3:13:29 PM EDT
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Purchased a rack grade Garand about 5 years ago from CMP and finally have it running just about the way I'd like.
Initially it would pre-maturely eject partially full clips; replaced the latch clip pin and put a new heavier latch clip sping on it. Also put it in a new stock. Solved Currently the bolt does not go home on its own when a full clip is inserted and or the charging handle is pulled to the rear and let go. I also had an instance of the op rod disengaging from the rail with the bolt home all the way forward but the section of the op rod with the charging handle outside the rail jammed. Could a weak or worn main spring be causing my problems? |
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Also, check the op rod tab.
Some old posts to give you an idea........ M1 Operating Rod and Spring Specifications Piston Diameter: .5260 to .5253 (under .5250 calls for rejection) Piston Thickness: .190 to .155 Tab/Lug Height: .320 to .317 (under .310 calls for rejection) Tab/Lug Thickness: .100 to .095 Tab/Lug Width: .265 to .235 Spring Length: 19 to 20.25 inches * Operating rod spring must be right-hand wound and free of kinks or flat spots Island hopper (CMP forum) ________________ For the op rod, I highly recommend Mr. Swartz (below taken from GCA website) SERVICE: M1 operating rod inspection and repair using an actual working operating rod gage - just like the gages used by armorers when operating rods were originally manufactured for the military. Operating rods reformed as needed, $15; pistons replaced with custom machined corrosion resistant (stainless) parts to fit your op rod, $25; custom oversized pistons made upon request; operating rod lugs rebuilt, $30. Contact Jim Swartz, Pickerington, Oh. Tel (614) 834-4895 or email: JSwartz280@ aol.com (OH). Also check out GCA Marketplace. They have a few restorers listed there. Posted by myfakename (AR15 Forum) I haven't used the gunsmith mentioned. Aloha, Mark PS........FYI, keep this in your "Favorites." http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/garand/tm9-1275.htm |
| I install a new stainless steel op rod spring from Orion 7 in every M1 that I shoot. It's normal to have to tap the op rod handle with the heel of your right hand to get the bolt to strip the top round off of the clip and close. There's no need to pull it back. On some M1s the bolt will close as soon as the clip hits bottom; this too is acceptable. |
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I have found that whether I have to tap the OP ROD forward on the 1st round is dependent on the En Bloc I am using at the time
New Greek clips rough and unworn I have to slap the op rod Old Sa and AEC clips worn very smooth push them down and watch out for M1 Thumb |
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Most M1 Garands have to be tapped to get the op-rod to chamber the first round, normal. The op-rod popping out is probably going to be the tab on the op-rod being worn.
If you have a micrometer here is a pic with specs for the tab. 
OP-rod Guru. If your oprod needs to be rebuilt such as the piston, tab, or needs to be rebent, email Jim Swartz at [email protected]. He rebuilds a lot of the oprods for some of the big name smiths. |
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