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Posted: 1/19/2008 9:26:18 AM EDT
I picked up a Springfield M1 a few days back and need a little info about these rifles. I don't know when it was made but the barrel has 2-55 stamped under the slide. It's in pretty good condition but well worn wood in good condition (no cracks). I got three...clips ?----filled with what appears to be surplus ammo with several different head stamps. An LEO looked at and said it had an H&R trigger and that the barrel condition was good. I want to fire it this weekend and I need to know if these rifles are strong enough for current 30-06 ammo. What are your opinions on the H&R trigger? It is a lot lighter and smoother than some of the triggers that are standard on my ARs. Is there a tutorial ( word) on taking the action out of the stock? I don't plan to refinish the stock but I would like to remove some of the oil stain. Does the marking on the barrel indicate the date it was made? Enough questions for today. Thanks for any info!
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The Garand was designed to shoot a 150gr bullet at a specific pressure curve. Most factory ammo does not have the same pressure curve and some has been known to munch the op-rod from excessive force. It is best to stick to M2 surplus ball with a Garand or to roll your own using the proper powder and bullet. One other thing you can do is use a Schuster adjustable gas plug to "tune" your gas system to a particular round. Schuster at Midway The date on the barrel is when the barrel was made. I would say that the odds are good that it is original if your serial number is in the 5.4-5.8 mil range. |
| You break down the Garand by pulling out the rear of the trigger housing which is like a hinge, then the upper half of the rifle separates from the rest. From there on it is pretty easy to figure out, but I'm sure you can do a search online for better instructions. True, the Garand is made for 150 grain mil-spec ball ammo, but I have fired alot of commercial hunting ammo through mine with no ill effect for 20 years. Having said that, I stayed away from the heavy and light hi-vel stuff, and tried to stay around the 150-168 grain loads anyway. Your rifle is newer than mine and should be quite sturdy...Garands are pretty tough hombres, enjoy yours. |
| Thanks to you for the info. Several of old guys gather at one of the local gun stores and there are always some who have a wealth of knowledge. One showed how to pull the trigger out and remove the stock from the action. So simple even a caveman could do it. Some of the surplus ammo I got with the rifle is corrossive and I don't know if I want to use it or not. Thanks again |
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www.odcmp.com Start reading. Just about everything you need to know is either on this site, or there is a link to another site that has the information. |
The front wood is in excellent condition and the receiver looks almost as good. The condition of the stock makes me think someone switched stocks. The only markings I can see is a P inside a circle and a small square with markings that I can't make out. |
DON70, Here's a link to help you identify the stock cartouche on your Garand. Cheers, Sakic #19  |
Sounds like your rifle sits in a GI stock The P is a proof mark the square mark should contain a Eagle holding three sprears in it's talons. This is the acceptance Stamp or DAS. Good advice above, about using M2 ball ammunition. Ceck the CMP's website. They have Greek HXP ( good stuff!) for a very reasonable price including shipping. You can get it pre loaded, on those enbloc clips. You will need more of em' anyway. I would not sand or put your wood in the DW, unless you don't care about those markings. You can find out when your rifle was built with the Heel #'s I have a Garand as well, and get a kick out of shooting it!  Have fun! |
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