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Posted: 1/6/2009 3:48:24 PM EDT
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I have a new-to-me Garand that I discovered through a function test does not cock when cycling the action while the trigger is held to the rear. Many times replacing the trigger-sear assembly and possibly the hammer will fix this. I had nearly ordered them when I found that sometimes a new stock can cause this as well.
The inletting near the rear end of the trigger housing assembly sometimes requires additional fitting. If the inletting is not deep enough it will tilt the trigger housing assembly enough that the bolt does not push the hammer down far enough to engage the sear, and the hammer will follow the bolt forward, possibly causing the rifle to fire. To make sure this is the problem, remove the stock and replace the trigger housing assembly in the receiver. You will notice some fore-aft play. Hold the rear of the guard so it is closer to the receiver and perform the function test. If the hammer catches on the sear you have likely found that the problem is the inletting. 
This photo shows the trigger housing assembly attached to the receiver for the test. 
Here we see the pen pointing at the sear, which catches the hammer when it comes back and the trigger is depressed during normal firing. Notice the hammer is engaged with the trigger lugs. During normal operation you can feel and hear the "click" when the sear releases and the the hammer catches on the trigger lugs as you let the trigger back out after firing a round. 
The unfinished portion of the stock is where I removed material. Go slowly and test the fit and function often. I did not have to take much off to get my rifle to function. I don't have a tool with enough precision to measure it, but I'd feel pretty safe in saying that it was less than a mm, probably closer to half that. The trigger housing assembly still fits in tight. Again, remove a little and test often. Also, from what I've read, sometimes the angled cuts on the interior of the stock will need some adjustment. My rifle did not require this. I have not fired it since this fix, but by manually cycling the action over 50 times it has not failed yet. I will try to shoot it tomorrow and update this post. Once proper function is confirmed I'll put some BLO on the exposed wood. If you have a new stock on a Garand and the hammer is following the bolt this might save you some time, money and frustration. |
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Good call.
I have a pic I made from a post on Jouster by Gus Fisher on inletting stocks, especially Boyds. 
"The dicey areas are 6, 2, possibly 5, possibly 8. Put your barreled action in the stock, use your hand to hold it in place while you check op rod function for any binding or rubbing against the wood. Relieve inside the stock as necessary. You want a snug fit in the stock that'll create mild downward pressure at the bbl band-stock ferrule when you install the trigger group & lock the trigger guard into place. Close the trigger guard slowly but firmly in checking this. If it just refuses to close, you may need to carefully plane at 6. This is tricky because you need to preserve the angles. If the trigger guard will close, work the op rod & dry fire a bunch to check trigger function - snap, recycle, slight let-up, audible click (hammer & sear), snap. If the hammer rides the bolt home upon re-cocking and you know your trigger's parts are ship shape, you'll probably need to relieve a little wood at 2 - just a thin sliver. That usually does the trick. 5 and 8 are just a matter of having very slight clearance from the seated floorplate. They may be OK as is. Good luck." |
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