Armory Sponsor
Posted: 2/3/2012 9:05:22 PM EDT
|
To clean or not to clean. The manual says pick one or another at the beginning of ownership I believe. I think you have to clean it every 150 rounds, if not, you wont get it open. Anybody have one and can chime in?
|
| The point of a take apart can is so that you CAN clean it. Isn't it? I have a Outback II and when it gets heavy enough, it's going in for the conversion. I am planning on cleaning it. 150rds doesn't seem like that much though. I would probably take it down everytime I get back from the range. Just treat it like a gun that you clean. It you plan on buying a take apart can and never plan on taking it apart, you could just look around for an older, cheaper, Outback II. |
| I have an older Outback 2 that I made into a take apart can long before Gemtech started to offer their own version. Same basic idea, mine is just a DIY job. That said, 150 rounds through mine and it is still very easy to take apart and clean. 500 rounds and it takes some elbow grease. Also keep in mind that some 22lr ammunition will be dirtier than others. My suggestion is to shoot 150 rounds and take it apart. If not that dirty then wait till 250 rounds next time, etc. etc. until you find the sweet spot for cleaning your can with your host and your ammo. |
| I just got my converted outback II back last week, so I'm interested in this as well. The bigger question for me is not when to clean it, but how? I don't own any fancy ultrasonic or soda blaster cleaners, and I understand a lot of solvents can damage the aluminum. |
|
I wrote the manual. The bottom line is that the longer you go between disassembly and cleaning, the harder it will be to take it apart. The suggested 150 rounds is really conservative and makes both disassembly and cleaning a breeze. At 500 rounds, it takes a little more work. A point comes when nothing works other than chucking it in the lathe and cutting out the stack.
In the manual, we do suggest one particular solvent, with which we have had considerable experience. It is water based, but I do not have an issue with using water based solvents when the suppressor is disassembled and parts can be thoroughly rinsed a dried before re-assembly. This solvent, from LRM Technologies (352-317-5868), will not damage the surface finish, unlike Simple Green which is so alkaline it strips anodizing. With the LRM, drop the parts in a bottle of the solution diluted 50% with water, soak overnight, and scrub off the softened carbon with an old toothbrush. Then rinse, dry, reassemble. |
|
Quoted:
I wrote the manual. The bottom line is that the longer you go between disassembly and cleaning, the harder it will be to take it apart. The suggested 150 rounds is really conservative and makes both disassembly and cleaning a breeze. At 500 rounds, it takes a little more work. A point comes when nothing works other than chucking it in the lathe and cutting out the stack. In the manual, we do suggest one particular solvent, with which we have had considerable experience. It is water based, but I do not have an issue with using water based solvents when the suppressor is disassembled and parts can be thoroughly rinsed a dried before re-assembly. This solvent, from LRM Technologies (352-317-5868), will not damage the surface finish, unlike Simple Green which is so alkaline it strips anodizing. With the LRM, drop the parts in a bottle of the solution diluted 50% with water, soak overnight, and scrub off the softened carbon with an old toothbrush. Then rinse, dry, reassemble. Carbon is one thing.....what about lead. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
I wrote the manual. The bottom line is that the longer you go between disassembly and cleaning, the harder it will be to take it apart. The suggested 150 rounds is really conservative and makes both disassembly and cleaning a breeze. At 500 rounds, it takes a little more work. A point comes when nothing works other than chucking it in the lathe and cutting out the stack. In the manual, we do suggest one particular solvent, with which we have had considerable experience. It is water based, but I do not have an issue with using water based solvents when the suppressor is disassembled and parts can be thoroughly rinsed a dried before re-assembly. This solvent, from LRM Technologies (352-317-5868), will not damage the surface finish, unlike Simple Green which is so alkaline it strips anodizing. With the LRM, drop the parts in a bottle of the solution diluted 50% with water, soak overnight, and scrub off the softened carbon with an old toothbrush. Then rinse, dry, reassemble. Carbon is one thing.....what about lead. I was not clear, but this was my question. |
| As I understand it, lead must be removed mechanically from aluminum. There is no lead solvent that won't destroy aluminum. Still, loosening the carbon ought to make the lead removal easier. I guess I'll find out when I fill up my OB II and send it in for conversion. |
| I'm sending mine back to be converted and I want to replace the Aluminum baffles with Stainless Steel ones and a Titanium blast baffle and maybe even the second and third. I have an YHM one piece and I fill it with Kroil and let it stand overnight. Then flush it out with hot water and then blow it out with air. Really cleans it out and I've been doing this for years. I do the Kroil thing on my old Sonics MAC 10 suppressor and it makes disassembly a breeze. |
|
Quoted:
As I understand it, lead must be removed mechanically from aluminum. There is no lead solvent that won't destroy aluminum. Still, loosening the carbon ought to make the lead removal easier. I guess I'll find out when I fill up my OB II and send it in for conversion. I use a soda blaster......but a proven, marketable, chemical dip would be nice. |
Armory Sponsor