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Posted: 5/1/2017 7:55:42 PM EDT
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So my dad had an old RCBS Rock Chucker that I decided to dig out of storage. It hasn't been used in probably 30 years so it needs some TLC. I'm planning to get dies for .223 and 6.5 creedmoor to start.
Being an older press or there anything specific I should look for in the dies or will any modern die work. I don't know enough to know if there were any changes. Also, any tips on reading material to get started? I probably know enough to be dangerous but I don't know what I don't know at this point. Thanks |
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First off, you may call RCBS. Â They may be willing to spruce it up and ensure everything is in working order for you...swap parts where needed. Â Worth the call IMO given how good their CS is.
Reading - ABCs of Reloading would be a good start. Â Also look at Lyman's book...they are on version 50 which I believe includes support for 6.5 CM. Off the shelf dies should work, but again RCBS would be able to tell you if your model has different threading than what's offered on today's dies. Â I've had good luck with RCBS dies and don't see a need to change. Read up on this site...there are some knowledgeable people here. Â Look at the stickies. Â If you're loading 6.5 CM, you should also jump over to the Precision Rifle subforum and look at the other reloading section there. Â More good info and great people to learn from. Good luck |
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Skip the 223 and go for 6.5. 223 has gotten so cheap, not worth reloading. Lyman has a great book to start with. Make damn sure you have a good modern case lube, dont skip any step and have fun! I would completely disassemble the press and clean, lube and even paint if needed. Unless there is rust all over it you'll be fine. Do not use abrasives on the ram. You don't want to reduce it's diameter at all. |
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Get the conversion kit that allows you to use Hornady Lock-n-load collets on your Rock Chucker. Makes swapping dies much easier/faster.
Lock-n-load conversion |
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This is only true if you plan to shoot 55 grain FMJ bullets. If you want to load any varmint or match grade bullets you still save a bundle loading .223 at home. I would completely disassemble the press and clean, lube and even paint if needed. Unless there is rust all over it you'll be fine. Do not use abrasives on the ram. You don't want to reduce it's diameter at all. |
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True about the 55 FMJ. You can make them more accurate with your rifle by loading as well. |
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Quoted:
Get the conversion kit that allows you to use Hornady Lock-n-load collets on your Rock Chucker. Makes swapping dies much easier/faster. Lock-n-load conversion |
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Quoted:
So my dad had an old RCBS Rock Chucker that I decided to dig out of storage. It hasn't been used in probably 30 years so it needs some TLC. I'm planning to get dies for .223 and 6.5 creedmoor to start. Being an older press or there anything specific I should look for in the dies or will any modern die work. I don't know enough to know if there were any changes. Also, any tips on reading material to get started? I probably know enough to be dangerous but I don't know what I don't know at this point. Thanks Be sure to match the shellholder and dies with the same brand. To keep from having tolerance issues. 223 is fine to load, I never shoot factory ammo as I'm a reloader. Get a copy of Lyman 50, has a how to reload section as well as cast and jacketed reloading data for rifle and pistol. Welcome to our hobby. 
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Sure seems to me that it avoids a lot of tweeking of settings. I have an old Rock Chucker (circa 1980) and things go a lot faster if you do not need to readjust the sizer, seater and crimp dies every session. What I used to do was size about 400 rounds, switch dies to the seater die adjust it and seat 400 rounds then switch to the crimp die and adjust ... it adds up. With the L-N-L bushings, you set the die once and switch them out quickly. This allows me to do 60 rounds the night before I head to the range and not worry about loading a bunch of rounds because ' .. the seating die is set perfectly, lets get as much done before I have to take it out so I can seat the bullets ..' Sounds weird but that is what I was thinking every time I loaded rounds up |
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The old, original Rock Chucker will be a great press to learn on. Mine is dated 1979, and it's still a great press.
Do tear it down and service it the way Assault Rifler describes. It's not hard to do, and after you have cleaned it up it'll be a dream to use. I like Hornady's LnL bushing system. It speeds die changes, lets you keep your dies adjusted the way you want, and it's pretty goof proof. It's also addictive...I am always finding that I need a few more bushings because I added a new seating die or something like that. |
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OP, you mentioned the press but what other reloading tools do you have? Trimmer, calipers, tumbler?
Home made Lanolin lube |
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OP, you mentioned the press but what other reloading tools do you have? Trimmer, calipers, tumbler? Home made Lanolin lube |
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I started with a Frankford Arsenal tumbler, it was loud and the wires to the motor snapped in about two years. I bought a Lyman 2200 to replace it and it works much quieter and still going strong.
If I was buying a tumbler today, I would get a wet tumbler like this one. |
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RCBS presses are as complex as a rock. My mid '60s A2 still works like a champ. Good advice to disassemble it and clean it up and lube it. No need to adjust your dies each time you use them. Set them up properly, run the lock ring down
and lock it to the die. Completely repeatable. When you run the lock ring down the first time don't snug it down before locking it to the die. Makes it really tough to remove the die. |
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.............. It hasn't been used in probably 30 years so it needs some TLC. .. Thanks I got a Rock Chucker back in the late 70s, or maybe earlier, don't remember for sure. I still use it a lot, it will out last me and my grandkids. Lube it up real good with something like Breakfree CLP or M-Pro 7 or something like that. That's probably all you will need to do. Get what every dies you want and load what ever you want. |
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My Rock Chucker is circa 1985. You don't need to take it apart the damn things last forever.
Get the dies for your loads and go for it, follow the books and don't skip the steps. Sometimes reloading is not about saving money or super accuracy loads; I load for the fun of it. (Though I chase accuracy in rifles other than my AR15) I like RCBS dies just fine and a 505 scale can't be beat unless you spend $$$. If you don't have a powder drop, that is a given for speeding things up. I weigh every 8 rounds (my block size) if I am chase small groups or at the beginning and end of the batch for blasting ammo for safety. Unless that press is rusted to hell you just need to put it to work after you wipe it down and lube the ram and linkage. |
| My method of press cleaning/maintenance has been clean up the press and do the ram/main piston last. I usually oil up the ram and use it a bit and then sacrifice a rag to wipe the fresh dirty oil off and then oil again. That's been bringing my 550B press back to like new for over a decade. I also lube all the pivots that have an oil hole with a pen style needle oiler. |
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My Rock Chucker is circa 1985. You don't need to take it apart the damn things last forever. Get the dies for your loads and go for it, follow the books and don't skip the steps. Sometimes reloading is not about saving money or super accuracy loads; I load for the fun of it. (Though I chase accuracy in rifles other than my AR15) I like RCBS dies just fine and a 505 scale can't be beat unless you spend $$. If you don't have a powder drop, that is a given for speeding things up. I weigh every 8 rounds (my block size) if I am chase small groups or at the beginning and end of the batch for blasting ammo for safety. Unless that press is rusted to hell you just need to put it to work after you wipe it down and lube the ram and linkage. I could have written this word for word. Mine has the original RCBS "Case Kicker Kit" on it too. For the few lucky people out there that have case kickers. Long ago I realized that the kicker spring that came with the kit was too long for rifle length casings. You can make a shorter one out of banding material. I probably made my first one around 1987 and have been using it ever since. The nice thing is you simply leave both bolted on all the time and just swing the one you want to use into position. 
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