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Posted: 11/20/2006 7:48:16 PM EDT
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I have a Springfield (Hellenic Arms) SAR 8 rifle that I want to do the 922r conversion to (so I can replace the thumbhole stock config). While I am at it I would like to replace the fake, recessed flash hider with the real thing. But I need to know what I'm getting into. It looks like the fake flash is pinned and welded. My questions are: 1. Is the barrel finished underneath the fake flash? Am I gonna have to refinish the rifle when I remove it? 2. Is there a hole drilled in the barrel for the fake flash pin? If so how big is it? It doesn't look like a standard flash would come back far enough to cover it should it be there. Basically I need to know if (after installing enough US made parts) I can simply mill or cut the pin area of the fake flash, remove it and install a replacement flash hider. |
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I have done this desporterizing on my SAR8. Yes, all you have to do is file or grind down the pin weld areas and knock the pin out with a punch. The pin slot goes across the treads but this does not prevent installing the new device. Aside from the pin slot the dimensions, threads, etc.. are per HK-91 drawings. Why remove the Fajen butthole stock? It is much more PC and sexy too. KKAHN |
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These are interesting rifles, I have one that was sold as a sporter but that was fitted with an "accurizing kit" sold by Springfield Armory. This consisted of a new stock, pistol grip and flashider! There apparently was a gap between the time that import of the rifles was allowed only in the "sporter" configuration and when 922r came into being. During that time people were importing thumbhole rifles and legally converting them with no US parts. I would suspect this was done on some AK's and other rifles as well but at the time Springfield actually sold a "kit" to do it. I own one of those rifles. I probably should have it made 922r compliant just to be on the safe side but I bought it converted as is from a very well established gunshop, with knowledgeable staff and feel pretty good about my legal position. In the past I have seen a letter from ATF regarding these rifles and I wish I had a copy for my own records. |
Second one. |
I think you are talking about the later SAR8 (non Greek). |
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If it is the one in the second pic then there are no threads under the fake hider. They hacked the barrel off behind the threads and welded the hider directly to the barrel. If I remember right the area under the hider is slightly under 15mm due to the taper of the barrel so it has to be shortened slightly to thread it. I cut mine back and just turned it straight (was too lazy to thread it) and pressed a phantom hider on then welded to the barrel. Also the area under the hider on mine was parked but not painted like the rest of the rifle. If you want the orginial legnth G3 barrel with threads you will have to have to have it replaced thanks to the stupid import laws.
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Yeah, I think I'm gonna do a G3K style. |
It is the easiest way, Mine has been pretty reliable but tends to get a little slugish when really dirty (dirty as in I am lazy and go 500 to 1000 rounds with no cleaning) and no longer tosses brass into the next county. If ya can get a G3K locking piece it will be back to it's brass throwing ways. I need to either grind one to G3K specs or buy one so I can get it back to being percent 100% reliable while being filthy. |
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I turned it by using a fixture I made to hold the receiver end in a 4 jaw chuck and held the barrel in the steady rest. The fixture indexed off the chamber and locked against the receiver through the trigger group retaining pin hole. Pain in the butt just to do one rifle but it was easier than taking the sight assembly off then pressing the barrel out. You got lucky with your barrel threads. Some made it in with just a fake hider screwed on. Some had one pinned and welded and then there is mine with the shortened no threads barrel. |
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I had two of the SAR8s purchased in the mid 90's. Both were Greek and there were no threads under the Flash Hider. They were pressed on and pinned. I removed them by grinding with a Dremel over the pin and then drawing the pin out with a Magnet. I used a pipe wrench to twist off the fake Flash Hider. I cleaned it up good and had a Gunsmith tread it for 1/2 X 28 TPI with a Lathe and put on M16A1 Birdcage Flash Hiders that were overbored to allow the 7.62 projectile to pass. We figured it would be too difficult to find G3 flash hiders at that time, now they seem to be available easily. |
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