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Posted: 1/15/2013 2:19:20 PM EDT
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http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_9/662980_I_m_haven_hell_keeping_knives_sharp.html
Thanks. |
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Like was mentioned in the other thread, the dirt is what's killing your edge. Either go really hard or really cheap. I've never seen a knife made from a high end steel with a gut hook. You'd probably have to go custom for that. If you're processing lots of hogs I'd go cheap.
get this and use it religiously: link and you can buy a case of these for the price of a nice custom: link |
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I know you don't want to use one but a razor gut hook is the only thing worth a flip without going high end as in semi custom etc.
If you can find something in a good tool steel cpm-d2 cpm-m4 a2 cpm-3v 1095 etc it will be way better. S30v would be the bare min steel IMO but I wouldn't go stainless personally the good stuff is still somewhat brittle and may chip on bone If your open to something other than a gut hook which if your using good steel you may learn to like it. Look into a Bark River knife I think one of there knives in cpm-3v would be a good choice If those have to much sticker shock a ESEE 3 or 4 in 1095 makes a good skinner IMO Lastly get a set of DMT folding stones and make a leather strop . Forget using a "system" freehand is easy if you take the time to learn on a few kitchen knives. The systems do no good in the field where as the folding DMT stones are compact and cut quick vs Arkansas stones |
This is the knife you want.
Benchmade Bone Collector 15010 in D2 steel. $83.75 at gpknives.com https://www.gpknives.com/benchmadebonecollector15010fixedbladeguthookwalnut.html ETA: They also offer it with synthetic scales. |
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I have the ability to put a edge on a blade. the problem lies while field dressing a nasty hog and the knife, knifes get dull. am I going to pack a sharpener, take off the gloves get the sharpener set up or even have it set up from the start. wash the knife then take off the gloves then sharpen the knife, put gloves back on then finish skinning.
I have went out 3, 4, 5 nites in a row and sharpening is not a thing that I have the time for, nor do I want to carrie 10 knives. the razer type knives are cool but when I'd use one it will snap. When a hog is killed it is because it was out moving and when one is out there are others out on the other side of the property. I don't want to take no more time than just a few minutes cutting the hams n straps off then resume hunting, try for more kills. I have a blade maker working on a project for me to try and all ready talking about making them available to others. This thread may pay off and solve my problem, the dehogskinner is on the table. 
It just normal to want to bring the kitchen sink and suprising how fast a storage box fills up. I try to travel as light as possible as sometimes I have over 1,ooo lbs of pay load and the last thing I want to do is bogg down in the river bottom. |
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I don't know how a big buck compares to a hog for dulling a knife blade.
I do know that some knives hold an edge much better/longer than others. I don't want to get into a pissing contest over brands but if you two or three different brands you'll find one that keeps an edge longer, or maybe one that doesn't keep its edge as long as the other two. My old Schrade LB7's will slit, nut, gut, skin and quarter a big buck and I can tell its getting dull near the end of quartering them. I've hand another similar looking knife of a popular brand that won't make it through skinning the deer before it needs sharpening again. I use a lansky kit to sharpen knives and I've also seen that some knives take longer to restore the edge on than other brands. The worst combination is a knife that is hard to shapen that looses its edge fast. |
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Quoted:
What brand knife or knives are you using lets see if this is a materal issue I have a pume white hunter 2 that don't stop but it has a 5 3/4" blade and I am the one that gives out. So I'm using a KEY knife with a 4" blade with a gut hook, rockwall 58-61. Mr. Key just made the handle I think the blade is on ebay. This one hangs tough but its heavy being 3/16 thick. I resort to a outdoor edge whitetail skinner/gut hook that I bought in 1992 and the blade is seki |
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Well there is a piece of the puzzle the puma is made from 1.4116 steel. It is a service grade steel known for high corrosion resistance not edge holding.
While a beautiful forged knife it shows a Rockwell at 55-57 so basically you have a mid grade kitchen knife with a high degree of fit and finish. If it tests at 55rc with that steel I doubt you get more than a few slices before your edge is toast. I'd say it would get schooled by a old $15 carbon steel Schrade from back in the day. I would take a long hard look at the Spyderco Phil Willison south fork in S90v or one of the Bark River knives if you want something that will go the distance on hogs. Back in the day before stainless steels flooded the market the old Knives were all basic Carbon steels and they were good performers yet required care. Once stainless came into play most knives went to shit and most have stayed that way. If you want something in stainless that holds an edge your going to have to go with a "super steel" like cpm-s90v m390 cts204p etc etc None are cheap. If you don't mind some mantance then a good tool steel like my favorite cpm-m4 will run circles around almost all of them and its fairly easy to sharpen. Watch this video most all competition knives are m4 and they are not sharpened with big obtuse edges this is bad ass steel Knife competition |
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Back in the day before stainless steels flooded the market the old Knives were all basic Carbon steels and they were good performers yet required care. Once stainless came into play most knives went to shit and most have stayed that way. I thought I was the only one.  I do like the stainless steel knives I own but in a lot of cases it's a solution in search of a problem.
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I was just told by a tech at a knife factory that gut hooks are useless...a good knife will cut thru any hide out there.
The traditional skinning knife is being in need of redesign if you ask me, because look what is now roaming across the country. A smiple gut hook put to use on this dirt encrusted critter would save headaches cutting this hide. Ha.... go pay hunderds of dollars for a knife and stab it in the dirt and saw your way 4 to 7 foot and see what you got, time after time. 
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Look if you're cutting up hides that are that dirty you might as well just cut sod and stones with your blade. That's some horrible nasty shit there and I wouldn't expect any blade to be able to hold up to skinning a dirt ball like that even the newest cpm-omgwtflol123x super alloys.
There's utility knife blades that are like guthooks but they are dirt cheap and you just replace them as they dull up. 
here |
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Quoted:
I was just told by a tech at a knife factory that gut hooks are useless...a good knife will cut thru any hide out there. Useless? Obviously not. Even when it starts going dull you just yank harder. Most any shitty knife will cut through any hide if you stop to sharpen it enough times. But that's exactly what you're trying to avoid.
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Quoted:
Well there is a piece of the puzzle the puma is made from 1.4116 steel. It is a service grade steel known for high corrosion resistance not edge holding. While a beautiful forged knife it shows a Rockwell at 55-57 so basically you have a mid grade kitchen knife with a high degree of fit and finish. If it tests at 55rc with that steel I doubt you get more than a few slices before your edge is toast. I'd say it would get schooled by a old $15 carbon steel Schrade from back in the day. I would take a long hard look at the Spyderco Phil Willison south fork in S90v or one of the Bark River knives if you want something that will go the distance on hogs. Back in the day before stainless steels flooded the market the old Knives were all basic Carbon steels and they were good performers yet required care. Once stainless came into play most knives went to shit and most have stayed that way. If you want something in stainless that holds an edge your going to have to go with a "super steel" like cpm-s90v m390 cts204p etc etc None are cheap. If you don't mind some mantance then a good tool steel like my favorite cpm-m4 will run circles around almost all of them and its fairly easy to sharpen. Watch this video most all competition knives are m4 and they are not sharpened with big obtuse edges this is bad ass steel Knife competition What type of knives are those that they are using??? Those are some badass knives for sure. Who makes em??? L2 |
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The compitition knives are all custom 95% are made from cpm-m4 which is m4 tool steel that uses Crucible"s powder tech.
The Spyderco Gayle Bradly knife is made from M4 really cool steel holds an edge forever and it can be sharpened with a very acute edge without chipping Still like everything else if its not heat treated and tempered properly then it could still be junk. I think the 1095 carbon steel knives from ESEE or the Sr101 (52100 steel) knives from Swamp Rat are some of the best fixed blade knife deals going. For hunting I carry a ESEE3 along with the Gayle Bradly |
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Quoted:
Look if you're cutting up hides that are that dirty you might as well just cut sod and stones with your blade. That's some horrible nasty shit there and I wouldn't expect any blade to be able to hold up to skinning a dirt ball like that even the newest cpm-omgwtflol123x super alloys. There's utility knife blades that are like guthooks but they are dirt cheap and you just replace them as they dull up. http://sheffieldhardware.com/upload/products_images/12852.jpg here I agree...Get the hook knife blades at home depot or lowes or menards...You use one for every gut job... Buy the really cheap fixed blade utility knife type body that is not folding or retractable... Cleanup is easiest on the fixed blade type of carpet/utility knife... One screw and throw the body in the sink...Throw out the blade...they are just two aluminum body pieces.. I've used these many times for gutting out many of a tasty dinner... Disposable is the best bet for items like this... Bret |
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