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Posted: 6/9/2010 5:19:22 PM EDT
| Hey folks a quick question. In setting up my dies I sized my cases to what I thought was a correct headspace only to find out they were incorrect. Upon using a case guage they protruded out. Meaning they were above the case guage. I reset the die and then have it correctly set to be in between the uper and lower set points. My question is can I just resize with the new settings on the 400 rounds of lake city brass that I have already sized, tumbled and clean already. I know I have to relube and clean the lube again. Thanks Benjamin |
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Quoted:
Which gage are you using? The Lyman gages are cut too small for a maximum diameter case rim; the case can be sized fine, but the rim holds the case out. That's why I use two case gauges for .223. I use the super-alloy aluminum JP Enterprises gauge for semi-auto ARs because it measures tighter and won't allow over sized rims, etc. It is really picky. But if it fits in the JP gauge, it will fit in an AR. For my bolt gun, I use a stainless steel Dillon gauge. It's easier to read and a tad more forgiving, just like a bolt gun. Also, I tend to size all my cases right at or just a little below the minimum mark. I've had bad experiences in the past (not going into battery and getting stuck) with allowing cases to protrude above the flush mark. Works better, too, when doing a lot of cases in a hurry. |
This is how I size cases. Dillon gauge used. No chambering issues in 3 AR's. I gauge every case, so I know they will chamber. OP, go ahead lube and resize your cases. If you do get a "high" case, turn around the case and wiggle it in backwards. This will swage the burr off the rim, and the case will then "gauge" normally. 
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| I have the drop-in gauges and the Hornady head space gauge set and I still just size my brass to where it will chamber and extract without any effort which according to the Hornady gauge is .003" which also sits flush with the top of my drop-in gauge(nothing below the cut and nothing above the cut) so I guess that would be max length for my head space but it keeps my brass from growing so fast and helps keep run-out to a min. |
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I have reloaded for a variety of semi-auto weapons beginning in the late 1970's, loaded extensively in the late 1980's through mid 1990's for NM practice ammo in an M1A and loaded extensively for both match and practice ammo for NM shooting with an AR-15 from the mid 1990's for a few more years. I have continued to load for a variety AR-15's as well as numerous other AR's (FAL, SKS, HK-91, etc) since then. I have at times went to some extreme lengths in brass preparation but I have yet to use a headspace gauge for reloaded ammo.
.30 cal AR's have enough spring pressure on normal bolt closing to se the shoulder back on any case that may have the shoulder slightly too far forward, so it is just wasted effort. The same is true for most .223 caliber AR's. All other things being equal you will be reloading with a normal .223 die or potentially a small base .223 die and in either case it will normally work in just about any .223 chambered AR. In comparision, chambering in a 5.56mm chamber is a piece of cake. So again in the big picture, a head space gauge is a waste of time at that stage of the process. If for some reason you have a tightly chambered AR, are loading for numerous ARs or are loading match ammunition that may be used in various ARs, just use small base dies and call it good. What is important to check is the OAL of the loaded round and to ensure loaded round can be expected to chamber without being forced. If the OAL is righ and a visual inspection of the case reveals no burs. bumps, nicks or other marks or flaws that may stand out, chambering is virtually assured and any further gauging is just gravy. |
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