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AR15.COM
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8/10/2008 7:57:36 AM EDT
Hey All,

Hopefully I posted this in the right forum; I couldn't find any specific place to post about reloading.

With my recent purchase of a S&W M&P15T, and the high cost of .223/5.56 Ammo, I began looking into reloading; I talked to a few people, watch many online videos, and ordered a reloading book.  Meanwhile, I have put together what I *think* is everything I need press wise for reloading.

Here's what I got:

Lyman "49th Edition Reloading Handbook" Reloading Manual

Lee Classic 4 Hole Turret Press (Cast Iron)
Lee Pro Auto Disk Powder Measure
Lee Double Disk Kit
Lee Auto Disk Powder Measure Riser
Lee Safety Prime Small and Large Primer Feeder for 2006, Later Reloading Press
Lee Pacesetter 3-Die Set 223 Remington
Lee Auto-Disk Rifle Powder Charging Die 22 to 30 Calibers

Lee Case Length Gage and Shell holder 223 Remington
Lee Primer Pocket Cleaner
Lee Case Trimmer Cutter and Lock Stud
Hornady Chamfer and Deburring Tool


Before anyone steps in and says "Don't Buy Lee, Buy Dillon, Buy RCBS, etc” Please don’t!   I have talked to many people, and read 100's of reviews and the Lee Classic Turret Press is rated top notch.   I don't have any need to spend $500+ on a Dillon Progressive press, and after looking at what's available, The Lee Classic Turret press was the best of the middle of the road, which is where I'm looking to get in at.

Moving on, I know I still need a tumbler, separator, and a Swage tool, what else will I need?  Are all tumblers and separators equal, or is there any specific one I should get?  What's a good Swage tool to pick up?

I will be using Lake City brass from once fired Federal XM193 ammo; I have 1,000 rounds I purchased, and will probably purchase another 1k rounds, and use this brass.

My basic/quick calculations put me at about $0.20/Round for powder/primer/bullet, which saves me $0.15/Round from the $0.35/Round I am paying for XM193 and $0.10/Round over Silver Bear that I am getting for $0.30/Round.

Thanks in advance for the help.

-ThaChad
8/10/2008 3:49:12 AM EDT
[#1]
I use my Lyman book lots but it is good to have several. I like the sierra for rifle loads.
If you are useing the Lee powder measure the Lee manual has some guides right on the loading charts that will help you set up any particular load faster.

I do my Rifle on the lee turret
I love the lee dies
I prefer a seperate hand primeing tool,my favorite is the RCBS , some perfer the Lee
I have used and discarded the lee scale as a piece of junk, For me the RCBS or LYMAN ballance beam type seems to work best.
8/10/2008 7:43:14 AM EDT
[#2]
Thanks for the replies.

I guess I should have noted, I do already own a Digital Caliper, and plan to purchase a Digital scale.

Thanks again,

-ThaChad
8/10/2008 7:49:12 AM EDT
[#3]
I wont say anything other than I too bought other brands and ended up with a Dillon..........eventually.



Sorry



A27257
8/9/2008 11:22:59 PM EDT
[#4]
Best bet is to go here
This link is in the Armory forum, then on to the Reloading section.
They will take good care of you there.
Best of luck
8/9/2008 11:30:43 PM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
Best bet is to go here
This link is in the Armory forum, then on to the Reloading section.
They will take good care of you there.
Best of luck


Thanks!

Maybe a mod can move my post?

-ThaChad
8/10/2008 12:47:37 AM EDT
[#6]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Best bet is to go here
This link is in the Armory forum, then on to the Reloading section.
They will take good care of you there.
Best of luck


Thanks!

Maybe a mod can move my post?

-ThaChad


Zip on over there and read the FAQ's an the tacked threads.  Most of you questions will be answered there!  Oh yeah, get the RCBS swager.

ETA:  Lee .223 factory crimp die, and a must-have; dial or digital calipers.
8/10/2008 8:28:23 AM EDT
[#7]

Patience
8/10/2008 10:24:24 AM EDT
[#8]
So can anyone tell me if my list is complete for everything I will need (Press Wise) for reloading?

Since I have to order everything, I want to make sure that I get everything I will need so i can use it when it gets here..

Thanks,

-ThaChad
8/10/2008 4:33:06 PM EDT
[#9]

Lyman "49th Edition Reloading Handbook" Reloading Manual

Lee Classic 4 Hole Turret Press (Cast Iron)
Lee Pro Auto Disk Powder Measure
Lee Double Disk Kit
Lee Auto Disk Powder Measure Riser
Lee Safety Prime Small and Large Primer Feeder for 2006, Later Reloading Press
Lee Pacesetter 3-Die Set 223 Remington
Lee Auto-Disk Rifle Powder Charging Die 22 to 30 Calibers

Lee Case Length Gage and Shell holder 223 Remington
Lee Primer Pocket Cleaner
Lee Case Trimmer Cutter and Lock Stud
Hornady Chamfer and Deburring Tool



And as you said, digital scale and caliper.

____________________________________________

So, how are you planning to deal with the cleaning job?

You can spend more $$$ on a tumbler/vibaratory cleaner with media.

Or,

How about a liquid case cleaner?  Perhaps.......

Birchwood Casey # 33845 CCI.  Follow the mixing instructions on the package.  After the soak/cleaning, the cases are removed from the solution and air dried. The solution is re-usable.  IF, you want to use an oven for drying, use the lowest heat setting.  

Why a liquid brass cleaner?  Well, it eliminates the need to buy a tumbler (or vibratory machine). I don’t have to buy media and I save on electricity. There is the added bonus of no noise and/or dust in my work space. And, if I were to tumble/clean de-primed brass, I would have to worry about stuck media in primer pockets and flash holes.


_______________________________________________

And, how about military de-capping? And prep? Perhaps?


De-cap the once fired military brass using either, a “universal” de-capper die or with a skinny nail/punch and anvil (with a hole in it, large enough for the old primer to fall out of, but still support the case rim).  Or, buy the LEE military primer de-capper set (#90102-.30 cal., #90103-.22 cal.).  Simply, run the nail/punch down through the case neck.  The nail will enter the flash hole and rest against the old primer.  Put the case on the anvil (old primer centered over the anvil’s hole).  Then, with a hammer knock out the old primer, letting the old primer fall through the hole in the anvil. Yes, the military crimp is sometimes that stubborn.

Next , the primer crimp will need to be removed.  The crimp gets either swaged or reamed/cut. My friend has a Dillon swage and I use a Lyman hand reamer/cutting tool. Both can do the job......one is cheaper. Lyman hand reamer (#7777785 Large, #7777784 Small).  I do the crimp removal while watching TV. It's as simple as: pick up a case, insert the tool into the primer pocket and twist, remove case, next.....

*Of course, you don't have to worry IF you load ONLY Commercial cases without a crimp.


________________________________________________

Re-size and trim jobs......

You seem to have covered it.  Though, you didn't mention lube.

So, what are you intending for that?  LEE lube, pad and other lube, wax with fingers for application or spray?

________________________________________________

As for re-priming cases.  

I like the LEE auto prime hand held tool (don't forget the special shell holder).......it's fast and easy.
________________________________________________

AND............a VERY IMPORTANT ITEM.


For those who don't know about it.........IMHO…………"the secret" to re-loading a bottle neck cartridge is.......a case gauge.  There are many different brands and ways to gauge your re-loads.  

Examples……..

www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=REMTHT&type=store

I use a Forster Products case gauge (the Wilson gauge is also a popular choice).  Insert a case into the die.  The headstamped end of the case, needs to be at or between the high and low cuts on the gauge, to pass. This checks the headspace.  While the other end, is used to check if the case will need to be trimmed.


________________________________________________

Aloha, Mark






8/10/2008 8:50:09 PM EDT
[#10]
List of equipment you need is here www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=486
8/10/2008 10:02:50 PM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:
List of equipment you need is here www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=486



Yeah, That's not really what I asked though.  I know what I need,  I am making sure I got all the parts needed for the Press, since there's a dozen *other* parts that are needed for the press to actually do anything (IE: Dies).

Thanks for the post though..

-ThaChad
8/10/2008 10:26:14 PM EDT
[#12]
Wow, What an awesome reply!!   Thank's soo much for taking the time to not only reply with great information, but to sort it all out!

To answer your questions...




Quoted:

So, how are you planning to deal with the cleaning job?

You can spend more $$$ on a tumbler/vibaratory cleaner with media.

Or,

How about a liquid case cleaner? Perhaps.......


Do you use liquid case cleaner?  How does it work?   I was actually going to go with the standard tumbler/seperator,  are all Tumblers/seperators equal, or is there one better than another?


Quoted:

And, how about military de-capping? And prep? Perhaps?


De-cap the once fired military brass using either, a “universal” de-capper die or with a skinny nail/punch and anvil (with a hole in it, large enough for the old primer to fall out of, but still support the case rim).  Or, buy the LEE military primer de-capper set (#90102-.30 cal., #90103-.22 cal.).  Simply, run the nail/punch down through the case neck.  The nail will enter the flash hole and rest against the old primer.  Put the case on the anvil (old primer centered over the anvil’s hole).  Then, with a hammer knock out the old primer, letting the old primer fall through the hole in the anvil. Yes, the military crimp is sometimes that stubborn.

Next , the primer crimp will need to be removed.  The crimp gets either swaged or reamed/cut. My friend has a Dillon swage and I use a Lyman hand reamer/cutting tool. Both can do the job......one is cheaper. Lyman hand reamer (#7777785 Large, #7777784 Small).  I do the crimp removal while watching TV. It's as simple as: pick up a case, insert the tool into the primer pocket and twist, remove case, next.....

*Of course, you don't have to worry IF you load ONLY Commercial cases without a crimp.


Will the standard Lee case Sizer & de-capper that comes with the 3-piece .223 Die set not work for military crimped primers?

As for swage, I was thinking the Dillon, but I don't know what it costs?  I will take a look at the lyman hand reamer, I might go that way..



Quoted:

Re-size and trim jobs......

You seem to have covered it.  Though, you didn't mention lube.

So, what are you intending for that?  LEE lube, pad and other lube, wax with fingers for application or spray?


I know I will need some sort of case lube, I haven't really spent any time looking at the options, though I did see a video on YouTube where the guy had some sort of Ink-pad type thing he just rolled the cases over, that looks like the cleanest way to do it..

One thing I read said to tumble/clean the cases, then lube, resize, and de-cap the cases, then re-tumble to clean the lube off.    I also read another place that you don't need to remove the case lube.  How do you do it?



Quoted:

As for re-priming cases.  

I like the LEE auto prime hand held tool (don't forget the special shell holder).......it's fast and easy.


For re-priming, I will use the LEE Safety Prime with the press.  The case resize & de-cap die will re-prime on the down stroke with the use of the Lee Safety Prime, which is on my list with the press.



Quoted:

AND............a VERY IMPORTANT ITEM.


For those who don't know about it.........IMHO…………"the secret" to re-loading a bottle neck cartridge is.......a case gauge.  There are many different brands and ways to gauge your re-loads.  

Examples……..

www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=REMTHT&type=store

I use a Forster Products case gauge (the Wilson gauge is also a popular choice).  Insert a case into the die.  The headstamped end of the case, needs to be at or between the high and low cuts on the gauge, to pass. This checks the headspace.  While the other end, is used to check if the case will need to be trimmed.


I will take a look at the products you posted, I think it is a good idea to have a *Double-Check* methoid/tool, and the case guage would be it.



Thanks again for your time and input.

-ThaChad
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