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Posted: 8/26/2013 7:04:15 PM EDT
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Quoted: I'm a reloading newb. Here is today's Craigslist purchase for $150. Lee Turret press with .223 dies RCBS scale Lee primer things extra turret and dies for .308 Lee Zip trimmer with spindles for .223 and .308 Lee powder setup RCBS trickler Lots of small random things. I know I have a few items on my shopping list, not to mention components. I bought a Harbor Freight rock tumbler, and I have stainless tumbling media inbound to wet tumble. I'm planning on small batches at first. I may step up my tumbling setup when I get going. I'm just concerned with case prep for now. I'll be traveling some for the next bit, so I won't be loading anything till I have some time and can finish rounding up tools and components. Here is what I plan to do for case prep, please critique: 1. Deprime without resizing. I read that resizing dirty brass is bad. Correct. I also know that I need the primer out before I wet tumble. Correct. So, I plan to kick out the primers, then wet tumble. Can I set up my dies to deprime without resizing, or do I need a special die for that? Get a Lee Universal decapper, don't use your sizing die on dirty brass. 2. Dry the brass. This ones pretty easy. 3. Resize the brass. How many cases can I go before applying lube? Every case needs to be lubed. What should I use for lube? Dillon , Franklin Arsenal, or home made lanolin spray lube. I've ready some people use synthetic motor oil. Use real sizing lube, previous answer, don't experiment when starting out. If you do, get a stuck case remover kit. I'd prefer that to special mail-order magic brass lube, if it is feasible. How do I setup my dies to the right spot? Need a case gauge or Hornady headspace gauge. How hard do I pull on the lever? Depends on the quality of your lube. 4. Trim to length, chamfer, deburr. Tell me whats wrong with my plan! http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/mustangduckk/photo-10_zpscd63b3fe.jpg Case gauge bottom right, Hornady headspace gauge mounted to caliper. |
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Quoted:
<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Case%20Gauge/P3030544_zps10acbd9b.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Case%20Gauge/P3030544_zps10acbd9b.jpg</a> Case gauge bottom right, Hornady headspace gauge mounted to caliper. Quoted:
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I'm a reloading newb. Here is today's Craigslist purchase for $150. Lee Turret press with .223 dies RCBS scale Lee primer things extra turret and dies for .308 Lee Zip trimmer with spindles for .223 and .308 Lee powder setup RCBS trickler Lots of small random things. I know I have a few items on my shopping list, not to mention components. I bought a Harbor Freight rock tumbler, and I have stainless tumbling media inbound to wet tumble. I'm planning on small batches at first. I may step up my tumbling setup when I get going. I'm just concerned with case prep for now. I'll be traveling some for the next bit, so I won't be loading anything till I have some time and can finish rounding up tools and components. Here is what I plan to do for case prep, please critique: 1. Deprime without resizing. I read that resizing dirty brass is bad. Correct. I also know that I need the primer out before I wet tumble. Correct. So, I plan to kick out the primers, then wet tumble. Can I set up my dies to deprime without resizing, or do I need a special die for that? Get a Lee Universal decapper, don't use your sizing die on dirty brass. 2. Dry the brass. This ones pretty easy. 3. Resize the brass. How many cases can I go before applying lube? Every case needs to be lubed. What should I use for lube? Dillon , Franklin Arsenal, or home made lanolin spray lube. I've ready some people use synthetic motor oil. Use real sizing lube, previous answer, don't experiment when starting out. If you do, get a stuck case remover kit. I'd prefer that to special mail-order magic brass lube, if it is feasible. How do I setup my dies to the right spot? Need a case gauge or Hornady headspace gauge. How hard do I pull on the lever? Depends on the quality of your lube.
4. Trim to length, chamfer, deburr. Tell me whats wrong with my plan! http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/mustangduckk/photo-10_zpscd63b3fe.jpg <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Case%20Gauge/P3030544_zps10acbd9b.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Case%20Gauge/P3030544_zps10acbd9b.jpg</a> Case gauge bottom right, Hornady headspace gauge mounted to caliper. I have 5.56 headspace guages, go and no-go. It looks like you have something different in there. ETA: thanks for the help, 'Flash. You're always willing to lend a hand! |
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Case gauge is a different tool. Home made lube thread. Cliff notes, Liquid lanolin and 99% alcohol, 12 to 1 mix. You end up with the same thing as Dillon or FA spray lube. Spray lube in action. Shake up lube, hold box so cases are on one end. 2 sprays. Shake up box and repeat. Wait for the alcohol to dry and start sizing. Some of the lube will find it's way into the case mouths (why you hold box so cases go to end of box) and you won't have to lube the case mouths in a separate step. |
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Double thumbs up on case length/head space gauge for every
caliber you plan to reload. Ran into problems with my first .308/7.62 reloads, discovered cause and cure with gauge. Suggest shop towels and Q-tips (with cardboard or wood sticks, the synthetic sticks bend too easy) to help in cleaning dies, etc. Got a little hell from wifey when she saw me cleaning dies with "good" WalMart towels. |
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Quoted:
Alright, well here's my cart for now. I also threw in a Lee carbide 4-die .45acp set. I can't seem to figure out what/where the case gages are. Can someone post a link to an item at Cabelas, or do they not have them? <a href="http://s159.photobucket.com/user/mustangduckk/media/Screenshot2013-08-31at100124AM_zpsa201e0d9.png.html" target="_blank">http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/mustangduckk/Screenshot2013-08-31at100124AM_zpsa201e0d9.png</a> Personally I would drop the extra cash on a lathe-style case trimmer |
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Quoted:
Personally I would drop the extra cash on a lathe-style case trimmer Quoted:
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Alright, well here's my cart for now. I also threw in a Lee carbide 4-die .45acp set. I can't seem to figure out what/where the case gages are. Can someone post a link to an item at Cabelas, or do they not have them? <a href="http://s159.photobucket.com/user/mustangduckk/media/Screenshot2013-08-31at100124AM_zpsa201e0d9.png.html" target="_blank">http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/mustangduckk/Screenshot2013-08-31at100124AM_zpsa201e0d9.png</a> Personally I would drop the extra cash on a lathe-style case trimmer Already have the Lee zip and stuff for .223 and .308. I'll probably upgrade later, but this will get me started. |
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http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/25547/catid/3/Dillon_Rifle_Case_Gages At Cabelas, nothing came up except funky OAL gauges. Doesn't look like they carry them. For the same money, the Dillon is the better gauge because of the SS construction.
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Quoted:
Case gauge is a different tool. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/305174_Case_Lube_for_cheap_bastards.html Home made lube thread. Cliff notes, Liquid lanolin and 99% alcohol, 12 to 1 mix. You end up with the same thing as Dillon or FA spray lube. <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/How%20To/P2250794.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/How%20To/P2250794.jpg</a> Spray lube in action. Shake up lube, hold box so cases are on one end. 2 sprays. Shake up box and repeat. Wait for the alcohol to dry and start sizing. Some of the lube will find it's way into the case mouths (why you hold box so cases go to end of box) and you won't have to lube the case mouths in a separate step. Another noob question... Do you have to wipe the lube off after loading, or is it ok to leave on the round? |
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I see by your new shopping list that you are ordering for 45acp as well. I would suggest that you start with them as straight walled pistol are the easiest. You will learn the basics like die set ups, charges, working up loads, etc. and then can move into bottle necks. Heres a little write up that may help you out a bit. I did it a while ago and may help you out some:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/377402_I_said_I_would_write_up_my_style_so_I_did__enjoy__I_hope____.html |
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Quoted: Another noob question... Do you have to wipe the lube off after loading, or is it ok to leave on the round? Quoted: Quoted: Case gauge is a different tool. <snip> Another noob question... Do you have to wipe the lube off after loading, or is it ok to leave on the round? Pre tumbler, old school way was to wipe off with a clean rag. Best way is to dry tumble off in plain corn cob right after sizing. Then you are not doing case prep (trimming, removing primer crimp, deburring) on slick cases.
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Quoted:
Yes lube must be cleaned off. Pre tumbler, old school way was to wipe off with a clean rag. Best way is to dry tumble off in plain corn cob right after sizing. Then you are not doing case prep (trimming, removing primer crimp, deburring) on slick cases. Quoted:
Quoted:
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Case gauge is a different tool. <snip> Another noob question... Do you have to wipe the lube off after loading, or is it ok to leave on the round? Pre tumbler, old school way was to wipe off with a clean rag. Best way is to dry tumble off in plain corn cob right after sizing. Then you are not doing case prep (trimming, removing primer crimp, deburring) on slick cases. I'm wet tumbling (so far). So my process is: 1. De-prime 2. Wet tumble 3. Dry 4. Trim 5. lube 6. Resize 7. ??? 8. prime, powder, and load Any help with #7 or suggestions on my process? Right now, I haven't gotten any further than #2. |
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Quoted: <snip> I'm wet tumbling (so far). So my process is: 1. De-prime 2. Wet tumble 3. Dry 4. Trim 5. lube 6. Resize 7. ??? 8. prime, powder, and load Any help with #7 or suggestions on my process? Right now, I haven't gotten any further than #2. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Case gauge is a different tool. <snip> I'm wet tumbling (so far). So my process is: 1. De-prime 2. Wet tumble 3. Dry 4. Trim 5. lube 6. Resize 7. ??? 8. prime, powder, and load Any help with #7 or suggestions on my process? Right now, I haven't gotten any further than #2. Cases will stretch when sized, when the diameter of case is reduced. If you don't' have a dry tumbler, you will have to wipe off lube or wet tumble lube off. Use more soap than normal if you wet tumble to remove lube.
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Quoted:
http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/25547/catid/3/Dillon_Rifle_Case_Gages http://www.midwayusa.com/product/456614/le-wilson-case-length-headspace-gage-223-remington At Cabelas, nothing came up except funky OAL gauges. Doesn't look like they carry them. For the same money, the Dillon is the better gauge because of the SS construction. Here is the Hornady gauge at Cabelas. http://www.cabelas.com/product/Shooting/Reloading/Tools-Accessories%7C/pc/104792580/c/104761080/sc/104635080/Hornady-Lock-N-Load-Headspace-Gauge/740263.uts?destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fbrowse%2Ftools-accessories%2Fhornady%2F_%2FN-1100198%2B1000003666%2FNe-1000003666%2FNs-CATEGORY_SEQ_104635080%3FWTz_l%3DSBC%253BMMcat104792580%253Bcat104761080%26WTz_st%3DGuidedNav%26WTz_stype%3DGNU&WTz_l=SBC%3BMMcat104792580%3Bcat104761080%3Bcat104635080 |
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Correct steve4102, but he was asking about case gauges. Not headspace gauge, which of course is the better tool. I'm trying to answer his question, not confuse him with another tool. Quoted:
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http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/25547/catid/3/Dillon_Rifle_Case_Gages http://www.midwayusa.com/product/456614/le-wilson-case-length-headspace-gage-223-remington At Cabelas, nothing came up except funky OAL gauges. Doesn't look like they carry them. For the same money, the Dillon is the better gauge because of the SS construction. Here is the Hornady gauge at Cabelas. http://www.cabelas.com/product/Shooting/Reloading/Tools-Accessories%7C/pc/104792580/c/104761080/sc/104635080/Hornady-Lock-N-Load-Headspace-Gauge/740263.uts?destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fbrowse%2Ftools-accessories%2Fhornady%2F_%2FN-1100198%2B1000003666%2FNe-1000003666%2FNs-CATEGORY_SEQ_104635080%3FWTz_l%3DSBC%253BMMcat104792580%253Bcat104761080%26WTz_st%3DGuidedNav%26WTz_stype%3DGNU&WTz_l=SBC%3BMMcat104792580%3Bcat104761080%3Bcat104635080 I'm trying to answer his question, not confuse him with another tool. I wouldn't say better, just different uses. For general reloading, I use Wilson gauges. The pistol gauges will do an assembled round while the rifle will do the shell only. Wilsons are built to Sammi specs so they should work in all firearms in that caliber. Some will mention getting stainless ones for rust purposes but I've never had an issue keeping them in their original boxes. I do have the Hornaday OAL gauges as well but they are used for precision rounds/bullet combinations for a specific rifle which is a bit above the initial question. I use the Hornadays to establish the jump for a specific bullet. Different bullets will have different jump distances to the lands and that's what the Hornaday will give you for OAL. Of course the latter is somewhat muted for semies, it's doable but they still have to fit into the magazine. |
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After you resize and trim, how hard do you have to work to get all the lube off? I know I could throw them back in the wet tumbler, but I'm wondering if it would be ok to just throw the brass into a spaghetti strainer or something, and rattle it around under running sink water for a minute. What do you think? |
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