>KNOW THAT: Handloading comes with some RISK.

An individual needs to gauge his or her own RISK TOLERANCE LEVEL to each situation in their life.

What's acceptable to ME........may not be, to someone else.

The Manual writers/publishers and editors, decide what's their safety margin and each will have their own threshold for safety. Load data between various manuals will vary.

>KNOW THAT: Handloading is PART EXPERIMENTATION.

Each manual contains many WARNINGS.

One popular warning, is against making “any substitution” of components, as it may be dangerous.

Try reading this subject: How do changing various components affect chamber pressure and velocity?

www.frfrogspad.com/miscelld.htm#components  

Then..........from SPEER..........



So, what do you do, if you don’t have the exact re-loading components as mention in the book?

IF you have a low risk tolerance level......perhaps, you’ll wait until you have the exact components?

But, doing that isn’t always practical.

For ME………..I'd take into consideration my RISK TOLERANCE LEVEL and maybe EXPERIMENT a little or not.

I'd search my available resources and various internet web sites. Perhaps I’d even contact the manufacturer. I'd attempt to figure out a SAFE (acceptable to ME) plan of action, using the available data.

ALWAYS REMEMBERING TO: Start low and work your way up.

>LASTLY……..KNOW THAT: YMWV.

Good re-loaders will not just "pick one" from the book or reproduce someone else’s load and expect to see the exact same results.  Conditions, equipment, components, lot#s and specs, can vary.

YMWV.

Magnum Primers

Magnum primers contain a greater amount and/or slightly different explosive mix than is used in standard primers. On ignition, magnum primers give longer burning, hotter flames. Their use is recommended for (1) any ammunition that will be used at or below zero degrees F., (2) with most Ball powders and (3) with slow burning rifle powders like MRP and IMR 4831 in very large cases. Magnum pistol primers often will give more uniform velocities in magnum handgun cartridges loaded with large charges or slow powders like 296, 2400 and H-110. Magnum primers may be used with faster burning or easy-to-ignite powders, but normally there will be no advantage in doing so. As when changing other components, it is advisable to reduce powder charge weights on initial loading with magnum primers.

Quoted:
Hey guys...

So I've got:

• Once-fired PRVI 5.56 Brass (cleaned, sized, swaged and primer'd)
  
• .224 55 Grain Hornaday boat-tail w/Cannelure bullets
• Ramshot TAC powder
• Wolf Small Rifle Magnum primers

My Hornaday manual says the starting load is 21.5 grains.  But it's based on using Winchester WSR primers.  Should I change anything for my starting load since I'm using Wolf primers? No

Ramshot data  


You will be fine with the start load of 22.7 grs Tac, Wolf SRM with the 55 gr HYD (Hornaday).

Work up and watch for pressure signs. Max listed is 25.3 grs.

When I switched from Win SR primers to Wolf SRM and re-worked up my loads, I ended up with the same powder charge.

Most of my loads are 1/2 to 1 gr below listed max. Same loading data for Hornaday's SP and 55 gr FMJBT.

Remember the start load will be safe with a different primer than what was tested. That's why it's a start load.

The TAC powder & Wolf primers didn't come with any load data.  Checked the Ramshot website and they don't have a load listed for this combo, either.

It's there in the 1 in 12 data.  Which is safe in a 1 in 9 twist rifle. HYD bullet, nobody lists loads with Wolf primers.

I'm planning on loading several sets of 10 rounds each at the various loads listed, start at the bottom and see which ones work best in my rifle  (reading my ABC's today...)  I'm slightly nervous since this is my first time and I REALLY don't want to screw up my rifle!!!