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Posted: 4/6/2010 4:15:51 AM EDT
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So. my first outing with my RLL didn't go so well. I got through a total of 5 rounds before a bullet got lodged in the barrel. The first round fired fine, the second round didn't fire, light primer strike. Chamber new round, fire a "burst" of 3 rounds. First round was fine (obviuosly, already chambered and waiting), second round fired OOB, bulged the case about half way down, and the 3rd round pretty much exploded OOB, leaving the bullet in the barrel. At this point, I don't know if there is 1 or 2 bullets in the barrel.
Anyway, I believe the problem is the wrong paddle thickness. I'm running it with the KNS protector (shaved the bottom of the rear lug), 9MM bolt is ramped and milled for RLL, using a modified FCG for select-fire. The measurement I got with feeler gauges between the rear lug and the bolt is .039. The paddle I used was a standard .05. It makes sense to me that if the paddle is too thick, then the disconnector would trip too early before the bolt is closed. Is there a rule for paddle thickness, or is it just trial and error? Not sure I want to waste $100+ on paddles I will never use just to find the right thickness. I thought I read somewhere before that you should measure and then add a certain amount to get the correct paddle thickness. Any help is appreciated. |
| Not to be mean, but it seems like if you have a multi-thousand dollar lightning link, $100 in paddles would be a wise investment. Between the price of a link, the bolt(s), or paddles, it seems like the paddles are the lowest cost item and I would look to swap them before modifying any of the more expensive parts. |
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Thank you, but I don't plan to modify anything. Instead of trial and error, I would like to know if there is a tried and true process of knowing what paddle thickness should be used.
Edit: If there is not a process of knowing, then yes, I will spend the money to order different paddles. Why do that if it is avoidable? Instead of experimenting with a RLL, I wouild like to get it right based on other's experiences. |
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Thanks for the link, but I have already read that site multiple times. It doesn't have the info I need.
I thought I read somewhere in the past that you should measure the gap and add .00n to the gap to determine the correct paddle thickness. Maybe I am mistaken, but that is the info I am looking for. Thanks. |
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Okay, so my problem isn't timing. I took a .032 paddle and stuck it in the gap of .039. It obviously shouldn't trip. Whether in semi or auto, the hammer follows the bolt into battery when I keep my finger on the trigger. This is when testing, not live fire. There is no way the LL should be tripping the disconnector. Then I took the link out, and get the same behavior. The disconnector is not catching the hammer. I must have a wrong part in or something.
Any ideas? |
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Quoted:
Okay, so my problem isn't timing. I took a .032 paddle and stuck it in the gap of .039. It obviously shouldn't trip. Whether in semi or auto, the hammer follows the bolt into battery when I keep my finger on the trigger. This is when testing, not live fire. There is no way the LL should be tripping the disconnector. Then I took the link out, and get the same behavior. The disconnector is not catching the hammer. I must have a wrong part in or something. Any ideas? Yeah, you need basic function before adding the RLL to the mix. Could definitely be a FCG issue. I'd suggest a select fire kit (MUCH easier to tune) with a M16 selector, burst trigger, and both burst discos - remove the burst hook and cut a niiiiiice clearance notch in the selector. Easy to do yourself, but Joe also sels the parts ready to drop in. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Okay, so my problem isn't timing. I took a .032 paddle and stuck it in the gap of .039. It obviously shouldn't trip. Whether in semi or auto, the hammer follows the bolt into battery when I keep my finger on the trigger. This is when testing, not live fire. There is no way the LL should be tripping the disconnector. Then I took the link out, and get the same behavior. The disconnector is not catching the hammer. I must have a wrong part in or something. Any ideas? Yeah, you need basic function before adding the RLL to the mix. Could definitely be a FCG issue. I'd suggest a select fire kit (MUCH easier to tune) with a M16 selector, burst trigger, and both burst discos - remove the burst hook and cut a niiiiiice clearance notch in the selector. Easy to do yourself, but Joe also sels the parts ready to drop in. I have the modified select fire FCG from M60Joe installed. |
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Nevermind, I figured it out.
I am running an extended 9mm buffer, and a ramped bolt. The hammer never gets pushed down far enough to engage the disconnector. I put in an H2 buffer and it works perfectly now. That sucks. I wanted the extra weight of the 9mm buffer. Guess I will have to get another bolt that isn't ramped so far forward. |
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Quoted:
Nevermind, I figured it out. I am running an extended 9mm buffer, and a ramped bolt. The hammer never gets pushed down far enough to engage the disconnector. I put in an H2 buffer and it works perfectly now. That sucks. I wanted the extra weight of the 9mm buffer. Guess I will have to get another bolt that isn't ramped so far forward. What caliber are you running? There are ways to make a carbine buffer heavier, easy peasy to make a H3. Have heard mixed results with filling a buffer with lead too. |
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Shorten the 9mm heavy buffer by a fraction of an inch to allow the hammer to reset.
I am having trouble picturing it - if the bolt comes far enough back to lock open, it damn well should have reset the hammer unless the carrier's ramp was cut at too shallow of an angle. The ramp only needs to be about , uh, 19mm long..... |
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