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Posted: 10/4/2010 12:51:08 PM EDT
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Ok, I got the Norrels Molyresin and painted IAW directions. I just did a lower a few minutes ago and it looks horrible (did not bake it yet). There are shiny spots and it feels like it is rubbing off. I have not cured this part yet.
The rest of the parts feel like a very fine grit of sandpaper. I baked them and it seems like has gotten a little more texture, but not smooth. What am I doing wrong? Do I need to sand them down again? How do I fix the lower? Thanks… |
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Ok, I got the Norrels Molyresin and painted IAW directions. I just did a lower a few minutes ago and it looks horrible (did not bake it yet). There are shiny spots and it feels like it is rubbing off. I have not cured this part yet. The rest of the parts feel like a very fine grit of sandpaper. I baked them and it seems like has gotten a little more texture, but not smooth. What am I doing wrong? Do I need to sand them down again? How do I fix the lower? Thanks… Why did you touch it? That just reintroduces oils that you worked so hard to remove during prep. What was your prep process? What were you spraying over, anodizing or an aluminum oxide-blasted surface? Did you consult their FAQ? |
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I did check the FAQ. I only touched the parts when I was done painting and just before I was putting it in the oven (which I was told would be fine since the paint was already applied over a clean surface. I blasted the parts with aluminum oxide and wash the parts. I then hit them with break cleaner. I wore nitride gloves during the entire process and changed them after each step. Everything was very sterile until I had the paint set for almost 24hrs.
As far as the lower goes, I took Acetone and it cleaned right off (did not oven cure the lower since I was not satisfied with the finish). So why are the parts getting a rough finish? How do I apply the paint so it goes on better? |
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I did check the FAQ. I only touched the parts when I was done painting and just before I was putting it in the oven (which I was told would be fine since the paint was already applied over a clean surface. I blasted the parts with aluminum oxide and wash the parts. I then hit them with break cleaner. I wore nitride gloves during the entire process and changed them after each step. Everything was very sterile until I had the paint set for almost 24hrs. As far as the lower goes, I took Acetone and it cleaned right off (did not oven cure the lower since I was not satisfied with the finish). So why are the parts getting a rough finish? How do I apply the paint so it goes on better? Your prep sounds good. A rough finish could be bad paint (is this stuff old? did you mix it thoroughly beforehand?) or your airbrush has a problem. Did you have any pressure problems while running your airbrush? Was the nozzle clean? I assume you're painting in a relatively clean area (i.e., not outside in the wind and dust). |
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Pressure is too high and or low paint volume. How hot are you pre-heating the part? If the part cools down while spraying the coating can turn gloss. If the part gets cool put it back into the oven to bring it back up to temp.
I don't recommend you use brake cleaner after the parts have been washed. You use brake cleaner to degrease then you wash. No matter what other suggest the brake cleaner can leave a residue and screw with you. |
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I was given this really nice airbruh, but don't understand how to use it. I had it at 40psi, but lowered it to 30. I think I will go out and buy a cheaper airbrush and try that. What is the recommended PSI? Not sure what air brush you're using but that is way too high of a PSI. I use less PSI with my HVLP gun. With my HVLP gun I run about 40 PSI from the tank to the line. Then use another regulator at the gun and run between 10 and 20 PSI playing with the paint volume control depending on what I'm spraying. Air brushes normally use less then that, down below 20. |
| Not sure about the airbrush and pressure but I always make sure the parts I'm spraying are nice and hot. I use a hair dryer to keep them hot. Generally, I'll hang my parts and heat them with the dryer. I'll then spray a light coat and hit it with the hairdryer again. I'll repeat this process until I have the desired color. |
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I was given this really nice airbruh, but don't understand how to use it. I had it at 40psi, but lowered it to 30. I think I will go out and buy a cheaper airbrush and try that. What is the recommended PSI? Depends on the airbrush. Manufacturer recommendations are just that. Find a pressure that works for you, and remember it. What may work for one color (viscosity changes), may not work for another too, so there's a learning process if you change colors. Also, as I'm not familiar with the product, but what was the humidity and/or temperature. High or low humidity can mess with some spray on products between the gun tip and the object sprayed. Duracoat has a retarder to slow evaporation, Cerakote doesn't that I know of. I've shot both and had them hit the surface as a powder regardless of pressure. Just too dry (20-30% humidity) in the garage. Tech support gave a hint at adding humidity to the space, and it shot like it was supposed to. Too hot and I added the retarder to the mix of DuraCoat....sprays like it's supposed to. Was this the problem? Dont know, but it's another thing to think about. Old Cerakote doesn't spray worth a damn either. |
| I just sprayed an ammo can at 15 or so PSI and it came out slick. The last time i did it with the old sprayer it felt like 150 grit. I think I found the problem and have sanded down all the parts I did and will do them again. I am glad I got my colors in quarts. I feel like I can play with the stuff a little more and still have plenty for the guns. This stuff is pretty good cause if you mess it up, acetone takes it right off until you bake it. After you bake it, nothing in my garage can take it off other then blasting. |
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I've sprayed MR with and without preheating, and I believe I get a more consistent finish without preheating. I bought a $20 Chinese external mix airbrush at Northern Tool, and it seems to be the best thing yet. I had been using a Paasche double action airbrush but it was getting to be a huge hassle, what with its spattering and clogging.
You can remove MR with acetone or MEK. I use MEK because it evaporates more slowly, giving you more working time. I'd advise you to check the parts in bright sunlight after spraying. MR goes on thin, so it's easy to have spots that aren't fully covered that don't show up under indoor lighting. |
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I'd advise you to check the parts in bright sunlight after spraying. MR goes on thin, so it's easy to have spots that aren't fully covered that don't show up under indoor lighting. I do powder-coating also. We use a bright LED flashlight to check. Something about the light makes it easy to see thin spots. They're cheap and they work. |
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I'd advise you to check the parts in bright sunlight after spraying. MR goes on thin, so it's easy to have spots that aren't fully covered that don't show up under indoor lighting. I do powder-coating also. We use a bright LED flashlight to check. Something about the light makes it easy to see thin spots. They're cheap and they work. I usually wear a headlamp when I'm spraying which frees up my other hand . |
| I've used Norrell's and had the the best results with a cheap external mix Badger airbrush. I use 15 to 18 psi and place a mini dryer/filter. Keep your airbrush at least 10" to 12" back and use light coats. Be sure to gently "swirl" the airbrush every couple of minutes so the moly particles stay suspended in the paint jar. As for prep, I use denatured alcohol. Dries quickly with no residue whatsoever. Hope this helps. |
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