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Lab Radar (Page 3 of 4)
| Not sure if this has been mentioned.. or if it was just me.. I was having trouble the other day, couldn't get 9mm to register with LR pointed at target at ~9yds. 45 ACP worked fine. Moved target back to 15 yds and all worked fine. My thinking is the slower 45 ACP (reloads at ~750fps) registered fine at 9yds, but the 9mm (reloads at @ 1100fps) was too fast, so had to move back further (may have worked at 12, or 11, or 10 yds.. dunno). |
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Originally Posted By Gareth96:
Not sure if this has been mentioned.. or if it was just me.. I was having trouble the other day, couldn't get 9mm to register with LR pointed at target at ~9yds. 45 ACP worked fine. Moved target back to 15 yds and all worked fine. My thinking is the slower 45 ACP (reloads at ~750fps) registered fine at 9yds, but the 9mm (reloads at @ 1100fps) was too fast, so had to move back further (may have worked at 12, or 11, or 10 yds.. dunno). Also check your offset and verify you're in pistol mode. It acts funny when the velocity is outside of the set range. |
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Originally Posted By Blowout:
The manual rates it at 800mA. Originally Posted By Blowout:
Originally Posted By brickeyee: Has anyone measured what a Labradar actually pulls when running? That is typically what manufactures give to allow design of power supplies. Battery life depends on actual A-hr pull. Very few things pull max power all the time. Especially sophisticated electronics. |
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Originally Posted By Gareth96:
Not sure if this has been mentioned.. or if it was just me.. I was having trouble the other day, couldn't get 9mm to register with LR pointed at target at ~9yds. 45 ACP worked fine. Moved target back to 15 yds and all worked fine. My thinking is the slower 45 ACP (reloads at ~750fps) registered fine at 9yds, but the 9mm (reloads at @ 1100fps) was too fast, so had to move back further (may have worked at 12, or 11, or 10 yds.. dunno). I haven't tried the Labradar that close yet... only @15yds with 9mm/40S&W. Didn't know it could register at 15yds until I tried it. A 45 cal provides a larger surface for the radar to bounce off, so it should provide a better signal than a smaller caliber. |
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Originally Posted By brickeyee: Probably a max. That is typically what manufactures give to allow design of power supplies. Battery life depends on actual A-hr pull. Very few things pull max power all the time. Especially sophisticated electronics. |
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Originally Posted By Blowout: Did you try setting any or all Distance settings to be within the 9yds? What settings did you use? |
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Your probably right... distance setting only provides velocity readings at the selected distances and doesn't affect the unit's performance. On Labradar's frequently asked questions - Indoor - they indicate 50 ft minimum distance because of the small beam size. https://mylabradar.com/faq/ The below article indicates the beam width at 50 meters is 4 meters wide x 6 tall, so at 25 ft should be 2ft wide x 3ft tall. Beam angle should be about 4.6 degrees wide. http://www.usrifleteam.com/blog/rays-new-labradar Positioning the barrel very close to the LR and precise alignment should help at that distance I suspect. I've also read a hard flat background could effect the reading and wondered if angling the target surface would increase the signal to noise ratio. Can't do this at a public range to try out unfortunately. |
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Originally Posted By Redbirdxx: That's an excellent guide for using the somewhat cumbersome user interface on the unit itself, but I'd suggest making sure firmware is up to date and downloading the app once you've got the unit itself up and running. The app is not without some glitches, but everything is so much easier when done through the your phone. Changing settings, starting new strings, reviewing...it's all much easier and intuitive through the app. |
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Originally Posted By Doublehelix:
Yep, battery pack and tripod. I have an Excel macro that I created if you want a copy, PM me. I have shared it with quite a few people around here and elsewhere. Make sure you know how to implement and use Macros however, I don't mind sharing, but I don't want to be an Excel Tech Support email box. (That happened last time I shared my macro, which is why I am saying that!!! I started getting a million emails on how to use Macros in Excel, how to edit them, why isn't it working?, etc.) |
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Originally Posted By HomeSlice:
What's your macro do? Originally Posted By HomeSlice:
Originally Posted By Doublehelix:
Yep, battery pack and tripod. I have an Excel macro that I created if you want a copy, PM me. I have shared it with quite a few people around here and elsewhere. Make sure you know how to implement and use Macros however, I don't mind sharing, but I don't want to be an Excel Tech Support email box. (That happened last time I shared my macro, which is why I am saying that!!! I started getting a million emails on how to use Macros in Excel, how to edit them, why isn't it working?, etc.) The Labradar saves each series as a separate folder. In that folder is one CSV for the entire series, as well as a file for each individual shot. Gathering all that into one file can be slow if you have a lot of data to go through. |
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Repurposed a case and tripod head for the LR. I should have gone with a sturdier case with less flex. I'll have to add some thin plywood or something similar to the inside top. Some thin scrap steel would add some weight as well.
Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Thanks for posting this!!
I have been looking at one for months now! I don't like the old style where you have to shoot threw it and I wasn't very keen on the idea of the Magnetospeed.. They are PRICY though and that has made me really gun shy (no pun intended... or was it?) But it looks like many of ya'll have one there seems to be no need to keep sitting on the fence!! -Masta |
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Originally Posted By MastaMarksman:
Thanks for posting this!! I have been looking at one for months now! I don't like the old style where you have to shoot threw it and I wasn't very keen on the idea of the Magnetospeed.. They are PRICY though and that has made me really gun shy (no pun intended... or was it?) But it looks like many of ya'll have one there seems to be no need to keep sitting on the fence!! -Masta And the price is nothing compared to shooting a couple opticals and have to buy replacements. 
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Originally Posted By MastaMarksman:
Thanks for posting this!! I have been looking at one for months now! I don't like the old style where you have to shoot threw it and I wasn't very keen on the idea of the Magnetospeed.. They are PRICY though and that has made me really gun shy (no pun intended... or was it?) But it looks like many of ya'll have one there seems to be no need to keep sitting on the fence!! -Masta When you put promo codes in at brownells it will say LR doesn’t qualify but if you continue through checkout you can enter the code a 2nd time and it will take (or at least it did for me) |
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Originally Posted By rlltd42: I spent a little more and bought from brownells as they confirmed they would refund my money anytime for any reason...kind of like a lifetime warranty I guess. When you put promo codes in at brownells it will say LR doesn’t qualify but if you continue through checkout you can enter the code a 2nd time and it will take (or at least it did for me) |
A Nation of Sheep Breeds a Government of Wolves!!!
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Finally got my new LR out for some shooting. I started off on the pistol range to work figure out how to make it all work, I figured pistol rounds are cheaper than rifle rounds. I read all the instructions, watched videos beforehand etc and still fumbled around with the buttons for a bit; particularly with getting back to the settings menu after shooting which I now know requires the arm button to be press/hold for 3 secs. Getting the unit to trigger based on the weapon firing worked pretty well and velocities were in the ballpark I'd expect so that all went well. Got it working with my pistol and moved to the rifle range. I had no issues with the unit triggering. I was using the impact trigger (plugs into the airgun port) the guy makes/sells on snipershide for $50 and it exceeded my expectations. I zip-tied the sensor to the rifle and it triggered every time including the closing of the bolt on some occasions. So, no issues with triggering. I fired/recorded 30 rounds of 30-06 and 6.5G. The points of impact were where they should be using the LR generated velocities according to my ballistics calculator so all good there. Odd thing happened at that point: I switched to 5.56mm (55 & 75 gr) and the unit would trigger but never pick up the bullet. I tried everything I could think of, double checked settings, alignment with target etc. all without success. I figure there is something I missed that caused the hiccup. Ironically another guy down the line had a LR and his stopped working at the same time and neither of us could figure it out. That makes me wonder about some kind of environmental issue but I can't think of anything subtle enough not to notice that would still cause the unit to stop tracking bullets. I'm going to read some more online but if anyone has ideas why it wouldn't track 5.56mm I'm listening. |
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Originally Posted By Trollslayer: You are measuring the frequency shift (f-fo) of the reflected signal caused by the movement of the bullet. You don't have to measure the speed of light, as such, but you have to know its magnitude. The Doppler formula: f = fo *(c/(c-Vb)) The frequency shift: (f - fo) = (c/(c-Vb)) Projectile velocity: Vb = (1/c) - (c / (f - fo)) fo - is the frequency of the transmitted pulse f - the measured frequency of the reflection off the bullet c - the speed of light, speed of the transmitted pulse (3E8 m/s) Vb - the speed of the bullet "(c-Vb)" is comparing the frequency of the object to the speed of light. No one said you are had to "measure the speed of light." You do have to know what it is though. |
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Originally Posted By rlltd42:
Finally got my new LR out for some shooting. I started off on the pistol range to work figure out how to make it all work, I figured pistol rounds are cheaper than rifle rounds. I read all the instructions, watched videos beforehand etc and still fumbled around with the buttons for a bit; particularly with getting back to the settings menu after shooting which I now know requires the arm button to be press/hold for 3 secs. Getting the unit to trigger based on the weapon firing worked pretty well and velocities were in the ballpark I'd expect so that all went well. Got it working with my pistol and moved to the rifle range. I had no issues with the unit triggering. I was using the impact trigger (plugs into the airgun port) the guy makes/sells on snipershide for $50 and it exceeded my expectations. I zip-tied the sensor to the rifle and it triggered every time including the closing of the bolt on some occasions. So, no issues with triggering. I fired/recorded 30 rounds of 30-06 and 6.5G. The points of impact were where they should be using the LR generated velocities according to my ballistics calculator so all good there. Odd thing happened at that point: I switched to 5.56mm (55 & 75 gr) and the unit would trigger but never pick up the bullet. I tried everything I could think of, double checked settings, alignment with target etc. all without success. I figure there is something I missed that caused the hiccup. Ironically another guy down the line had a LR and his stopped working at the same time and neither of us could figure it out. That makes me wonder about some kind of environmental issue but I can't think of anything subtle enough not to notice that would still cause the unit to stop tracking bullets. I'm going to read some more online but if anyone has ideas why it wouldn't track 5.56mm I'm listening. Did you switch from Pistol to Rifle on the settings ? Aiming the LR is critical. Did you try the straw technique to make sure you were on target? |
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Originally Posted By Blowout: Did you try the LR without the trigger device attached? I'm not familiar with it and not sure why you believed it was necessary. I've been using the LR with 223 at 100 & 50 yds and it picks up every time. Muzzle 6" from the LR. Did you switch from Pistol to Rifle on the settings ? Aiming the LR is critical. Did you try the straw technique to make sure you were on target? Aimed (and re-aimed) the LR using the harbor freight builders square. Again, no issues until I switched to 5.56. The LR was in an identical position for the 30-06, 6.5G, and 5.56. Double/triple checked all settings, still can't figure out what happened. In regards to the recoil trigger thing it's really geared towards suppressed shooting which is why I bought one. It may be anecdotal but the guy next to me was having all kinds of trouble getting his LR to trigger and mine triggered 100% every time. It took the triggering issue out of the equation completely for me. FWIW I don't know the guy making/selling them, just passing along a gadget that works pretty well. Some more info: (https://forum.snipershide.com/threads/labradar-crowded-range-brakes-and-cans-sure.6917644/#post-7413645) (https://forum.snipershide.com/threads/psa-new-recoil-activated-trigger-for-labradar.6937831/) |
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Did you check if the TX channel was at least 2 channels different from the LR next to yours? Since both were having issues there could have been some interference. Did you have the TX power setting on standard? Possibly used low setting with Pistol and 30 and 6.5 was a large enough surface to reflect a signal back, but not the 223. Did you update the FW after you bought the unit? You probably already thought of these, but just in case.... |
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Well, I took my LabRadar to the range today for the first time.
I din't want to be bothered with operating a weapon whilst I learned to run this system, so.... I found a guy on the Rio Salado (Maricopa County, AZ) firing line that let me put my unit next to his compensated Win 308 on a rest. He was shooting Varget with close to a max load, 175 grain boat tails w/o coatings. I put the unit about four inches from the barrel at an even elevation very near the center of the unit and the barrel, on a very small tripod, about 10 or 12 inches behind the muzzle. It triggered every time. I used the Bluetooth/phone app to set the trigger. The Bluetooth disconnected multiple times, but otherwise worked fairly well. How easy was that? It was quite literally, like falling off the proverbial log. Brought the unit home, put the mem card in my computer, and downloaded all of the data for the single string. I was truly surprised at how easily it all went. I did, however, pour over the instructions and the internet babble before striking forth, and that might have had an impact on my experience. I used the "soda straw / scotch tape" trick to align the unit to the target. I am contemplating a more permanent arrangement. So satisfied. Now I don't have to be at the range 30 minutes before it opens in the AM to set up my Oehler. Oh, anybody want to buy an Oehler 35P? It's an AWESOME UNIT, but it takes 15 or so minutes in front of the firing line to set up. :-] pc/macd |
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Get yourself the accelerometer trigger. I wish I had learned about them sooner.
I could never get the unit to work without it on two of my guns. One is a suppressed 300 BLK shooting subs. There was always a guy blasting his comped unsuppressed AR in 5.56 10 lanes down, and that ten lanes down is still louder than mine 6" from the unit, so the trigger wouldn't work for that. Second gun I could never get it to work for was my 458 SOCOM. That has so much muzzle blast that I couldn't keep the unit steady and get it to read. Not on a tripod, not on a plate, not with bricks between it, nothing. I even made a custom baffle, that bolted on the side of the plate, still no dice. It either wouldn't read the projectile, or wouldn't trigger. Accelerometer trigger has fixed it all. It's all I use now. Never have to worry about setting sensitivities, etc. 
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-:
Get yourself the accelerometer trigger. I wish I had learned about them sooner. I could never get the unit to work without it on two of my guns. One is a suppressed 300 BLK shooting subs. There was always a guy blasting his comped unsuppressed AR in 5.56 10 lanes down, and that ten lanes down is still louder than mine 6" from the unit, so the trigger wouldn't work for that. Second gun I could never get it to work for was my 458 SOCOM. That has so much muzzle blast that I couldn't keep the unit steady and get it to read. Not on a tripod, not on a plate, not with bricks between it, nothing. I even made a custom baffle, that bolted on the side of the plate, still no dice. It either wouldn't read the projectile, or wouldn't trigger. Accelerometer trigger has fixed it all. It's all I use now. Never have to worry about setting sensitivities, etc. |
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Originally Posted By SuperDutyMikeMc: This. You may have been the one who turned me on to it in a GD thread months back. Seriously makes all the difference. Also, a Pelican 1520 fits it perfectly, with room for a baseplate and a few extra goodies. And it comes in Orange. 
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Seahorse Laptop case works well
Lid has pockets for pens, external battery, notebook, targets bottom is padded well(for a notebook) side pocket is prefect for a tripod small pelican case hold extra bits If you call Labradar they will send you stickers.... Attached File Attached File |
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Thanks. I am overdue for one of those. I installed lithium AA batts in mine, but they won't last forever. So far, so good.
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Overwatch.
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Originally Posted By wildearp: Thanks. I am overdue for one of those. I installed lithium AA batts in mine, but they won't last forever. So far, so good. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-:
Get yourself the accelerometer trigger. I wish I had learned about them sooner. I could never get the unit to work without it on two of my guns. One is a suppressed 300 BLK shooting subs. There was always a guy blasting his comped unsuppressed AR in 5.56 10 lanes down, and that ten lanes down is still louder than mine 6" from the unit, so the trigger wouldn't work for that. Second gun I could never get it to work for was my 458 SOCOM. That has so much muzzle blast that I couldn't keep the unit steady and get it to read. Not on a tripod, not on a plate, not with bricks between it, nothing. I even made a custom baffle, that bolted on the side of the plate, still no dice. It either wouldn't read the projectile, or wouldn't trigger. Accelerometer trigger has fixed it all. It's all I use now. Never have to worry about setting sensitivities, etc. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-:
Get yourself the accelerometer trigger. I wish I had learned about them sooner. I could never get the unit to work without it on two of my guns. One is a suppressed 300 BLK shooting subs. There was always a guy blasting his comped unsuppressed AR in 5.56 10 lanes down, and that ten lanes down is still louder than mine 6" from the unit, so the trigger wouldn't work for that. Second gun I could never get it to work for was my 458 SOCOM. That has so much muzzle blast that I couldn't keep the unit steady and get it to read. Not on a tripod, not on a plate, not with bricks between it, nothing. I even made a custom baffle, that bolted on the side of the plate, still no dice. It either wouldn't read the projectile, or wouldn't trigger. Accelerometer trigger has fixed it all. It's all I use now. Never have to worry about setting sensitivities, etc. I soldered the wires on the sensor and hot glued it inside of a piece of Bic pen tube. It works great. |
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Originally Posted By Are-O-Be: You can make one for cheap with one of these and a microphone cable(most people have an old one around the house). I soldered the wires on the sensor and hot glued it inside of a piece of Bic pen tube. It works great. |
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Originally Posted By Blowout: So all the accelerometer switch does is close the circuit at the microphone plug? Note some of the wires are coated in varnish and will need to be removed before soldering. You can burn it off with a cig lighter and scrape it with your finger nails. |
If you want peace, then prepare for war.
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I love my Labradar... Had a new ProChrono before this and liked it but... I kept getting random fps readings.. Built a coffin for it and this solved my problems (with indoor lighting kit) but it was WAYYY too much to haul to a remote range. I use a coffee stir straw tapped to the top of the chrono to help with alignment of my labradar. I use a 20k mah battery pack from Amazon... basically lasts 3hr per range trip and around 10-15 trips before recharge. I also ended up getting the remote microphone. Made life easier for every rifle and handgun. I adjust sound level depending on the rifle or handgun but it's easy to do within the app... Unfortunately I'm one of those people that have yet to truly learn the radar's control panel interface. I use just the app to switch everything. Good luck with this nice piece of technology! |
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Originally Posted By Are-O-Be: Yes. The microphone plug will have 4 wires but it only uses 2 of them. You can strip the wires, plug in to the Lab radar and briefly touch the wires and see the Lab radar trigger. Note some of the wires are coated in varnish and will need to be removed before soldering. You can burn it off with a cig lighter and scrape it with your finger nails. |
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Originally Posted By rlltd42:
The accelerometer is the only way to go for rifles. I may figure a way to attach to a pistol as well. Using my LR without one now is tedious. |
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Originally Posted By drfroglegs: Is there an accelerometer kit some of yall can recommend? I've seen a few different ones but don't really have much feedback on which ones work well. |
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Originally Posted By drfroglegs: Is there an accelerometer kit some of yall can recommend? I've seen a few different ones but don't really have much feedback on which ones work well. |
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Originally Posted By Wash-Ar15:
i hope if LR does a revision of the current model they make an internal rechargeable battery pack. using regular AA in it, they suck down fast. i am wondering also why no other company has offered a doppler chrono. Just buy rechargeable lithium AAs. They work great. |
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Originally Posted By Kleinman:
Have any of you guys with multiple chronograph tested them against each other with a known load. To see how far off from each other they are? Compared to my old Shooting Chrony known loads all read slightly faster on the LabRadar I'm going to go ahead a put that on the old optical unit. |
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Originally Posted By Kleinman:
Have any of you guys with multiple chronograph tested them against each other with a known load. To see how far off from each other they are? There is a thread here that compared the magnetospeed to the Labradar and an optical unit. The magnetospeed and Labradar performed nearly identical and both outperformed the optical unit. I'll see if I can find the thread... Edit: thanks @popnfresh for such an awesome comparison. https://www.ar15.com/forums/Precision-Rifles/LABRADAR-v-MAGENTOSPEED-v-SHOOTING-CHRONY-comparison-FYI-APP-NOW-AVAILABLE-in-OP/10-6511/ |
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Originally Posted By drfroglegs:
Edit: thanks @popnfresh for such an awesome comparison. https://www.ar15.com/forums/Precision-Rifles/LABRADAR-v-MAGENTOSPEED-v-SHOOTING-CHRONY-comparison-FYI-APP-NOW-AVAILABLE-in-OP/10-6511/
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Originally Posted By codesmith:
Seahorse Laptop case works well Lid has pockets for pens, external battery, notebook, targets bottom is padded well(for a notebook) side pocket is prefect for a tripod small pelican case hold extra bits If you call Labradar they will send you stickers.... https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/37083/labradar__1___Medium__jpeg-1222771.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/37083/labradar__2___Medium__jpeg-1222772.JPG |
The last thing I want to do is hurt you. But it's still on my list.
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I have been using lithium AA batts and the last range session really took a toll on them. Battery meter would go from 3 bars down to zero, but I still got all of my shot strings recorded. 75 shots, 8 series. Time to get that USB power supply.
Interestingly, the previous time out, I couldn't get it to pick up rimfire, .38spl, or .45-70. I tried the microphone and various settings, including Doppler. I don't know what I was doing wrong that day. I wasn't against a side wall, which the troubleshooting says may be an issue, but there was a wall beside my target. I can't see how that would be an issue. Troubleshooting also mentioned bullet shape, and they were 535gr Postell and 405gr lead flat nose slugs. I am going to go with poor device aiming and I really need to install a sighting tube in the v-groove. This past Sunday, I set it to audible trigger, sensitivity 1, and it accurately picked up every .223 and .308 round I fired, not a single erroneous reading or missed shot. I spent a little more time making sure of the vertical positioning and aim. I may have had it pointed downward a bit too much last time. Cheers! |
Overwatch.
Lab Radar (Page 3 of 4)
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