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Lee APP tips and tricks (Page 11 of 12)
| So l am working on getting my Lee app deluxe setup. I don't plan on ever priming on this thing. Is there any way to get a replacement plastic plate without that front protrusion piece for their primer system? I tried taking it off but see it is all one piece. If not l so just have to learn to deal with it but figured l would ask. |
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick: So l am working on getting my Lee app deluxe setup. I don't plan on ever priming on this thing. Is there any way to get a replacement plastic plate without that front protrusion piece for their primer system? I tried taking it off but see it is all one piece. If not l so just have to learn to deal with it but figured l would ask. https://leeprecision.com/app-molded-parts |
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Originally Posted By Blowout: Might try the part below. It's the standard rail w/o the primer gizmo on it. I've replaced this part on mine in the past. I https://leeprecision.com/app-molded-parts Perfect! Thank you! |
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick: Dang $10 part with $7 shipping. Do you think if l call Lee they will give me one for free? I have been disappointed with Lees CS lately I broke 2 decapping pins in my APP and they told me they would replace them but future issues I'd have to buy 3 weeks later the decapping plastic spider thingies broke, reached out and was told I'd have to buy replacements Soooo I would be very careful in asking Lee for replacement parts I buy from Titan |
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Originally Posted By craig24680: I have been disappointed with Lees CS lately I broke 2 decapping pins in my APP and they told me they would replace them but future issues I'd have to buy 3 weeks later the decapping plastic spider thingies broke, reached out and was told I'd have to buy replacements Soooo I would be very careful in asking Lee for replacement parts I buy from Titan Ok. Yeah even Dillon is starting to get like that too. Maybe l will try it anyways as l have never asked for anything before. Worse case is they say no and then I'll just leave it as is. Thanks for the info. |
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick:Ok. Yeah even Dillon is starting to get like that too. Maybe l will try it anyways as l have never asked for anything before. Worse case is they say no and then I'll just leave it as is. Thanks for the info. I haven't called CS for anything in awhile so I'm not sure what their policy is now... |
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Can anyone help me out. I am trying to put this thing together, and having problems. I am trying to set it up to deprime and Lee's instructions leave a lot to be desired. I figured I would try it out for 223/556 but when I put the top part together wiht their included universal depriming stem, I bring the press down and when I raise it up the stem is stuck in the case and it gets pulled out of the top. I must not have something right. If anyone can post pictures that would be helpful. Some other questions is this feed pawls. The manual says to use one that is not taller than the case, but there are no guidelines on what one to use for what caliber but says to put a case on the base and use one lower. Does anyone have some basic guidelines on which one to use for 9mm, 38sp, 45acp, 223/556, etc. I also wound up buying a 3d kit off ebay that replaces all the parts from lee for the tubes, etc. from this guy. https://www.ebay.com/itm/304871603120?var=603963552577 His instructions also leave a lot to be desired. Before I try contacting him, does anyone use his stuff that could help me? Thanks |
| another question-I have a lee universal depriming die with squirrel daddy replacement pin inside. Can I use it over their goofy one that came with the lee app deluxe? I am sorry for all the questions it is just I have zero experience with this and I am trying to figure it out. There are a ton of YT videos of people using it in action, but hardly any showing how to put it together, setup, etc. and the ones that are out there are all time lapsed and nothing up close so they are pretty much useless. |
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick: 1. Can anyone help me out. I am trying to put this thing together, and having problems. I am trying to set it up to deprime and Lee's instructions leave a lot to be desired. I figured I would try it out for 223/556 but when I put the top part together wiht their included universal depriming stem, I bring the press down and when I raise it up the stem is stuck in the case and it gets pulled out of the top. I must not have something right. If anyone can post pictures that would be helpful. 2. Some other questions is this feed pawls. The manual says to use one that is not taller than the case, but there are no guidelines on what one to use for what caliber but says to put a case on the base and use one lower. Does anyone have some basic guidelines on which one to use for 9mm, 38sp, 45acp, 223/556, etc. I also wound up buying a 3d kit off ebay that replaces all the parts from lee for the tubes, etc. from this guy. https://www.ebay.com/itm/304871603120?var=603963552577 His instructions also leave a lot to be desired. Before I try contacting him, does anyone use his stuff that could help me? Thanks Does this happen with LC cases? What headstamps does this happen on? 2. I think you are talking about the red plastic blocks that slide on the shuttle and sits next to the case when dropped from the feeder? Use the highest one for 223. In general use one close but not higher than the case. I have the Original APP and a current APP. The original uses a universal decapper to decap. What I use. Somewhere between 20 to 50K (10 years or so) decapped with the same decapping pin. Lee universal decapping die with collet adjusted correctly. Problem with the current APP is Lee "improved" the decapping system and you are locked into a funky decapper. A friend has one of these and has broken many decapping stems. I wasn't present so I don't know what he was doing wrong. So I will fall back on my standard press operating philosophy which is, never force anything. Never power through. If you feel more pressure on the press handle than is normal, Immediate stop. Find out what is wrong and correct it. One last thing, notice I numbered your questions in my quote. Makes it easier to answer that way. |
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I am using mixed headlamp brass. I think l figured out the problem. The proprietarydepriming stem that comes with the LEE APP Deluxe it is too wide for 556. I took it out and just tried to pass it down the neck of a 223 or 556 case and it is too tight and sticks in the neck. So as I bring the press ram back up it pulls it out from the top of the press. Comparing it to the stem from my Lee universal depriming die or the squirrel daddy stem it is smaller and those stems glide easily in and out of the case with plenty of clearance and doesn't get hung up. So did Lee completely screw up on the thickness of this depriming stem? I will try to post some pics of what l am referring to. I am going to forgo 556 for now and try it with 9mm and see if it deprimes the case correctly and the rod stays inside the top assembly. Those two plastic parts that go in on the top that guide the case mouth-how long do those last? They seem pretty flimsy. I think l also figured out these 3d printed replacement parts. I see what your saying about the shuttle pieces. I was hoping for a guide (i.e. use part a for up to 9mm, etc.) but l will trial and error the different sizes to find one that is as close to the top of whatever case. Again-I really think LEE should have a legend or guide for what shuttle attachment piece to use what caliber you are trying to deprime, etc. The is also a size that is really thin but both ends are encapulated or don't have the movable "paws". Basically all the different sizes have one end that is round with a hole, and the other end has the paws that grab the brass, but this one has the round ends with a hole on each side. What is this piece for? |
Going back to this proprietary depriming stem, here are some pics of it. Above pic shows it has a small step from the stem to the rest of the body. That small step fits inside the neck of a 223/556 case ok, but as soon as it hits the tapered out larger body it gets stuck.  Here's a picture showing how it gets stuck.  Here's a pic from the side of it going into a case and you can see how there is no clearance around case from the stem.  Here's that same case with an extra squirrel daddy universal depriming stem. Note how much clearance the case neck has around the stem.  Lastly, here is a side by side pic of the squirrel daddy stem and this lee stem. Note how much wider the lee stem is. Unfortunately this stem is designed to work in the top of this lee press with the spring and the top is flared and captures the spring and stays inside. I can't just use the squirrel daddy stem as it falls right through from the top as it can't stay captured. I can't just thread my lee universal depriming die into the top as it has this proprietary threading system and the die is smaller than the opening. I am wet tumbling some dirty unprimed 9mm brass. Once it is clean and dried, I will try depriming it for now and see how it works. |
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick: I am using mixed headlamp brass. I think l figured out the problem. The proprietarydepriming stem that comes with the LEE APP Deluxe it is too wide for 556. I took it out and just tried to pass it down the neck of a 223 or 556 case and it is too tight and sticks in the neck. So as I bring the press ram back up it pulls it out from the top of the press. Comparing it to the stem from my Lee universal depriming die or the squirrel daddy stem it is smaller and those stems glide easily in and out of the case with plenty of clearance and doesn't get hung up. So did Lee completely screw up on the thickness of this depriming stem? I will try to post some pics of what l am referring to. I am going to forgo 556 for now and try it with 9mm and see if it deprimes the case correctly and the rod stays inside the top assembly. Those two plastic parts that go in on the top that guide the case mouth-how long do those last? They seem pretty flimsy. I think l also figured out these 3d printed replacement parts. I see what your saying about the shuttle pieces. I was hoping for a guide (i.e. use part a for up to 9mm, etc.) but l will trial and error the different sizes to find one that is as close to the top of whatever case. Again-I really think LEE should have a legend or guide for what shuttle attachment piece to use what caliber you are trying to deprime, etc. The is also a size that is really thin but both ends are encapulated or don't have the movable "paws". Basically all the different sizes have one end that is round with a hole, and the other end has the paws that grab the brass, but this one has the round ends with a hole on each side. What is this piece for? Open side for case decapping. Closed side for bullet sizing. |
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick: Going back to this proprietary depriming stem, here are some pics of it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240449/159-3691792.jpg Above pic shows it has a small step from the stem to the rest of the body. That small step fits inside the neck of a 223/556 case ok, but as soon as it hits the tapered out larger body it gets stuck. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240449/155-3691793.jpg Here's a picture showing how it gets stuck. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240449/156-3691794.jpg Here's a pic from the side of it going into a case and you can see how there is no clearance around case from the stem. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240449/157-3691796.jpg Here's that same case with an extra squirrel daddy universal depriming stem. Note how much clearance the case neck has around the stem. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240449/158-3691795.jpg Lastly, here is a side by side pic of the squirrel daddy stem and this lee stem. Note how much wider the lee stem is. Unfortunately this stem is designed to work in the top of this lee press with the spring and the top is flared and captures the spring and stays inside. I can't just use the squirrel daddy stem as it falls right through from the top as it can't stay captured. ** I can't just thread my lee universal depriming die into the top as it has this proprietary threading system and the die is smaller than the opening. I am wet tumbling some dirty unprimed 9mm brass. Once it is clean and dried, I will try depriming it for now and see how it works. ** The press uses Lee's breach lock bushings, the die fits in it and gets locked in. It only takes a partial turn to remove or install the bushing and die. I bought enough bushings to keep them attached to the dies. They probably included at least one extra in the APP kit. Breach lock Someone posted that you need to use the xpress shell holders if you use a Lee decapping or any other die in the press. I have an old press that requires the xpress shell holders so I'm only passing along what they posted. Xpress shell holders are shown in the OP on this thread. The brass passes through the shell holder. |
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick: Picture of the mystery piece l was referring to. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240449/160-3691865.jpg |
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Yeah that is what I figured was the problem. Thanks guys for confirming and for your additional info. I will give Lee a call next week on my day off and see if they can send me a replacment. Why I am at it I will see if I can get that other part out of them as well. 
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So I successfully deprimed about 500 45acp cases. I took this bad depriming pin out to check it and I already slightly bent the tip. Anyways, I am trying to call Lee CS about it being too wide for 556 to get a replacement and I keep getting messge to call back during their normal business hours which is when I am calling. They should be there right now but still getting the message. Very irritating. |
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ok-after trying several times I finally am getting through-currently on hold. While I wait I have some questions about some of the hacks or tips on this Lee APP deluxe. I have seen and read about putting either a straw from a can of wd40, etc. (red straw) or a piece of coat hanger cut to size in the spring on the shuttle. Which one is better to use? Anything else I need to modify or consider? |
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick: ok-after trying several times I finally am getting through-currently on hold. While I wait I have some questions about some of the hacks or tips on this Lee APP deluxe. I have seen and read about putting either a straw from a can of wd40, etc. (red straw) or a piece of coat hanger cut to size in the spring on the shuttle. Which one is better to use? Anything else I need to modify or consider? |
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To sum up my lee CS call I had to wait for their "technician" to get help. When I finally got him I explained my issue. Told him I used my calipers and the lee rod was .2165" and others (like my squirrel daddy) was .202. He said what I measured is correct and blamed my brass being the problem. I told him I tried it on several pieces and several would get stuck. He then told me to try tightening the winding at the top of the spring. I started asking him some other stuff and I got disconnected while i was talking to him. I also asked before getting disconnected about getting a replacement rail without the priming crap. He said that would be considered an addon and I would have to buy. Like I said-waste of time. |
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So if I want to use my Lee universal depriming die with this, I would need to get one of those lock bushings to install the die in the top. So does that mean I would have to also get some of those x-press lee shell holders with the open ended slots on each side too? What holds them in the bottom. Will that lower part that came with the lee app press work? It has like a spring loaded plunger in it. Sorry about all the questions-I was trying to ask that tech this stuff but got disconnected. Tried calling back but after waiting on hold for over 20 mins to speak with him again I gave up. I asked the girl who came back to me on hold after 20 mins if I wanted to continue holding. I asked her if there was only the one tech and she said yes. I said no and hung up. |
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So l chucked th as t Lee depriming stem in my cordless drill and spun it in some 120 gr sandpaper for about 20 mins stopping every couple of minutes to allow it to cool and not get too hot. I finished it off with some flitz and 600grit for a few minutes to smooth it out. It now measures from .205 to .210 above the taper.  Tired inserting and removing it from a few cases and now it easily glides in and out. 
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick: So l chucked th as t Lee depriming stem in my cordless drill and spun it in some 120 gr sandpaper for about 20 mins stopping every couple of minutes to allow it to cool and not get too hot. I finished it off with some flitz and 600grit for a few minutes to smooth it out. It now measures from .205 to .210 above the taper. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240449/164-3693970.jpg Tired inserting and removing it from a few cases and now it easily glides in and out. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240449/165-3693971.jpg FWIW, I happen to have a couple of these pins sitting at my office desk. Mine both measure .202 at the base before the step, and .2155 / .216 above. Both slide easily into a piece of fired brass. Don't know why yours was hanging up, maybe dented mouths on the brass? Regardless, buy another couple of pins NOW. I bent several in my first 3-4k rounds. Mostly my fault as things weren't quite aligned and I accidentally forced it too hard. I've since bought a set of the squirreldaddy pins (they make pins for the APP in 2 sizes, IIRC one for large flash holes and one for smaller flash holes.) The squirreldaddy pins are better, but not unbreakable. |
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Originally Posted By corruptor: FWIW, I happen to have a couple of these pins sitting at my office desk. Mine both measure .202 at the base before the step, and .2155 / .216 above. Both slide easily into a piece of fired brass. Don't know why yours was hanging up, maybe dented mouths on the brass? Regardless, buy another couple of pins NOW. I bent several in my first 3-4k rounds. Mostly my fault as things weren't quite aligned and I accidentally forced it too hard. I've since bought a set of the squirreldaddy pins (they make pins for the APP in 2 sizes, IIRC one for large flash holes and one for smaller flash holes.) The squirreldaddy pins are better, but not unbreakable. Well that worked for awhile and l just broke the pin.  It was already slightly bent and it got more bent. I tried to straighten it out and it broke off. Really disappointed with this thing so far. Spend more time meddling with it then actually using it. So now until l get another stem it is in unusable. Squirrel daddy makes this specific pin for the deluxe? Can you send me a link as l looked on their website and l don't see one. I think l really would like to use my Lee universal depriming die with the squirrel daddy pins l already have for it. What parts do l need to make this happen? |
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick: While I wait I have some questions about some of the hacks or tips on this Lee APP deluxe. I have seen and read about putting either a straw from a can of wd40, etc. (red straw) or a piece of coat hanger cut to size in the spring on the shuttle. Which one is better to use? Anything else I need to modify or consider? on mine, w/o the wire the spring will bend causing issues getting the case centered under the die. With the wire installed it's much more reliable. |
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick: So if I want to use my Lee universal depriming die with this, I would need to get one of those lock bushings to install the die in the top. So does that mean I would have to also get some of those x-press lee shell holders with the open ended slots on each side too? What holds them in the bottom. Will that lower part that came with the lee app press work? It has like a spring loaded plunger in it. I use x-press shell holders whenever using a die on top of the press. Yes they fit in the part with the plunger button you mention. They fit like a regular shell holder fits on a standard single stage press. Look at the OP there's pictures |
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Originally Posted By Blowout: I have a coat hanger wire in mine . From my understanding Lee updated the spring with a stiffer type. If you aren't having issues don't add the wire. It makes it harder to reinstall the spring on the shuttle. on mine, w/o the wire the spring will bend causing issues getting the case centered under the die. With the wire installed it's much more reliable. Ok. I will hold off on that for now. The spring does seem to be pretty stout but will see how it holds up over time and use |
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Originally Posted By Blowout: Yes you need to bushing for each die or reuse the same bushing. Didn't a lock bushing come with your press? I use x-press shell holders whenever using a die on top of the press. Yes they fit in the part with the plunger button you mention. They fit like a regular shell holder fits on a standard single stage press. Look at the OP there's pictures Thanks for confirming what l need. I don't remember seeing one of those bushings in there but l will check again tomorrow. Maybe Lee doesn't include one anymore. |
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick: Did you try the straw or the wire? What didn't work? I am only curious as right now it is working fine, but figured if it would help down the road I would put in in right away. |
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick: So if I want to use my Lee universal depriming die with this, I would need to get one of those lock bushings to install the die in the top. So does that mean I would have to also get some of those x-press lee shell holders with the open ended slots on each side too? What holds them in the bottom. Will that lower part that came with the lee app press work? It has like a spring loaded plunger in it. Sorry about all the questions-I was trying to ask that tech this stuff but got disconnected. Tried calling back but after waiting on hold for over 20 mins to speak with him again I gave up. I asked the girl who came back to me on hold after 20 mins if I wanted to continue holding. I asked her if there was only the one tech and she said yes. I said no and hung up. They attach to the catch bottle with the proper shellholder/to/bottle adaptor. |
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick: Squirrel daddy makes this specific pin for the deluxe? Can you send me a link as l looked on their website and l don't see one. Unfortunately it looks like they've taken them off of their product list. After buying my last batch of pins I took some time to examine the whole process and found I wasn't pushing the upstroke firmly to the stops, resulting in the case sitting just shy of the center line. The self-aligning bushings in the decapping die do a good job, especially on pistol brass, but they're not perfect. Once I started watching and making sure the brass was centered before beginning the next cycle I stopped breaking pins. |
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Originally Posted By corruptor: Unfortunately it looks like they've taken them off of their product list. After buying my last batch of pins I took some time to examine the whole process and found I wasn't pushing the upstroke firmly to the stops, resulting in the case sitting just shy of the center line. The self-aligning bushings in the decapping die do a good job, especially on pistol brass, but they're not perfect. Once I started watching and making sure the brass was centered before beginning the next cycle I stopped breaking pins. Thanks. Too bad as I have their replacement pins for my Lee Universal Depriming die and they are so much better than the soft lee ones. FYI-Midsouth shooters supply has a sale on all Lee reloading products right now. I just placed my order for the bushings, xpress shell holders, and I wound up getting some more of the original lee pins for the APP. |
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So l got my Lee parts order from mid south yesterday. So l thread the Lee app bushing into the top and then thread my Lee universal depriming die into it. How far in do l thread the die in? Should l stop when it touches the Lee express shell holder? Can you cam over with this Lee app deluxe or should you avoid doing so? Thanks |
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick: So l got my Lee parts order from mid south yesterday. So l thread the Lee app bushing into the top and then thread my Lee universal depriming die into it. How far in do l thread the die in? Should l stop when it touches the Lee express shell holder? Can you cam over with this Lee app deluxe or should you avoid doing so? Thanks About 1/16 inch gap. Same as any decapping die. Then adjust stem low enough to knock primer out. This is important, don't over tighten the collet. You want it just tight enough to decap, but raise up if it encounters an obstruction. Loosely tighten collet. Try to decap but the decapping stem should raise up. Good. Tighten a little more. Keep tightening, decapping until decapping stem stays put. Small steps, don't rush. Now try a crimped primer. You should have to tighten stem a little more. Repeat as needed. That's how the decapping stem should be tightened with the collet. If you over tighten, you get broken pins. I use regular Lee pins and they don't break on me. But I adjust collet correctly. Look at the APP, (a lot lighter built than a Rockchucker I'd say) don't do any cam over. Cam over may happen when sizing, NEVER when decapping. Make sure shellholder spins easily. If not it won't automatically align with the case if it's a little off. |
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick: So l got my Lee parts order from mid south yesterday. So l thread the Lee app bushing into the top and then thread my Lee universal depriming die into it. How far in do l thread the die in? Should l stop when it touches the Lee express shell holder? Can you cam over with this Lee app deluxe or should you avoid doing so? Thanks The APP has different linkage than a single stage press and cam over doesn't occur. When sizing cases, you need to make sure your pushing down the handle hard enough for the die to firmly touch the shell holder each time since there is no cam over. |
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Freinds, I managed to lose the instructions for my app. Any chance one of you guys deprimes 380 on yours and can tell me the configuration for the shuttle peices? Purchased a large baggy of 380 brass but it needs deprimed and washed. Maybe 380 doesn't work well on the APP? Ehh, went back to the beginning of the thread and think I have a better idea about what I need to do. |
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Originally Posted By meistermash: Freinds, I managed to lose the instructions for my app. Any chance one of you guys deprimes 380 on yours and can tell me the configuration for the shuttle peices? Purchased a large baggy of 380 brass but it needs deprimed and washed. Maybe 380 doesn't work well on the APP? Ehh, went back to the beginning of the thread and think I have a better idea about what I need to do. I use some 3d printed parts that don't need to be adjusted for each case Swap a funnel for each and gtg |
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Originally Posted By Blowout: I tried to keep most setup details in the first post to make it easier to find whatcha need. Haven't included bullet sizing, primer pocket swagging or primer seating since I haven't attempted those with the APP. Sure and thank You good Sir. I need to swap out the feed tube thinger, put in the heavier spring that I ordered for the slider, adjust the stroke for the shuttle and I think the shuttle needs to run without a top price to get the highth right. I am using a universal decapper with spring loaded pin to fling primers out. Lyman? I went from 38 special. Have used it for 223 so I should know the hole is smaller. |
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Originally Posted By meistermash: Sure and thank You good Sir. I need to swap out the feed tube thinger, put in the heavier spring that I ordered for the slider, adjust the stroke for the shuttle and I think the shuttle needs to run without a top price to get the highth right. I am using a universal decapper with spring loaded pin to fling primers out. Lyman? I went from 38 special. Have used it for 223 so I should know the hole is smaller. - It looks like the 223 xpress shell holder also fits 380 auto. - The flat top riser (PA4384A) should work on the shuttle. Below is a pick of the shuttle setup for 9mm with a 380acp sitting on the rail. Attached File Attached File - Your decapper should work fine. - I have a container of 380acp cases that were decapped and wet tumbled. I must have done those at some point and just forgot decapping them on the APP. |
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Here are links to all sorts of APP instructions. .223 and .380 use the same shell holder pretty much across the board, since the heads are almost (if not actually) identical (I didn't look up the numbers.) Lee APP Instructions Deluxe APP Instructions Instructions to Change Jaws for Small Cases Video showing how to attach that #$%#$ spring to the actuator hook. |
| Here's my contribution to this thread: Don't leave the spring hooked to the shuttle when not in use. When the handle is up it puts tension on the spring and shuttle enough to torque it cockeyed. If you leave it like that for weeks / months it bends it up semi-permanently and it won't slide back and forth as good. YMMV |
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Originally Posted By Rimneck: Here's my contribution to this thread: Don't leave the spring hooked to the shuttle when not in use. When the handle is up it puts tension on the spring and shuttle enough to torque it cockeyed. If you leave it like that for weeks / months it bends it up semi-permanently and it won't slide back and forth as good. YMMV That's a good point. That little jerk of a spring is hard enough to deal with at times...having it take a set is just asking for trouble. I'd take it off of the casting rather than the shuttle, because seeing it dangle in front of the red parts is kind of waving a flag that says I need to hook it back up. My input, related to the shuttle: The plastic of the fixed part that the shuttle slides on gets dirty, and it can make the shuttle drag. I tried waxing the fixed part, using a block of canning wax and polishing it in, but that left enough residue that the dirt stuck to it - I think paste wax would do the same thing. So I cleaned it with thoroughly with alcohol and a tooth brush to get rid of the wax. Then put a tiny amount of plumber's silicone grease on the outside of the base's rails and the insides of the shuttle's rail parts (where they rub together). By tiny I mean I put it on with a tooth pick. The base still gets dirty, but it's not going to grab gunk, and the grease seems to stay on the sides of the rails and inside the shuttle's matching parts. |
Lee APP tips and tricks (Page 11 of 12)
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