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Let's see your Mk11, M110, and military variants (: (Page 40 of 40)
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Originally Posted By warp_foo: Cerakoting was just completed. A Centurion Arms MK11 receiver set, Criterion 22" barrel, a SOLGW M89 handguard, and a DNT The One for now. My goal is a M110A3-ish clone. I'm taking liberties with the stock... :-) https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148913/IMG_8769-3789658.jpg And the rail, receivers, glass... |
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Originally Posted By warp_foo: Cerakoting was just completed. A Centurion Arms MK11 receiver set, Criterion 22" barrel, a SOLGW M89 handguard, and a DNT The One for now. My goal is a M110A3-ish clone. I'm taking liberties with the stock... :-) https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148913/IMG_8769-3789658.jpg Attached File |
Originally Posted By bradpierson26:
So I know you're a SF whore . . . . .
So I know you're a SF whore . . . . .
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Originally Posted By warp_foo: Cerakoting was just completed. A Centurion Arms MK11 receiver set, Criterion 22" barrel, a SOLGW M89 handguard, and a DNT The One for now. My goal is a M110A3-ish clone. I'm taking liberties with the stock... :-) https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148913/IMG_8769-3789658.jpg Soooo nothing remotely close to what this thread is for 
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Originally Posted By mra4523: My apologies. Poor wording. When I stated barrel I meant the barrel as the entire muzzle end of the rifle to include the gas block and flash hider. Since those two have a larger outside diameter than the barrel itself there's no issue with the actual barrel. I think the tightness is just a new thing and it'll settle out as it ages. I just wasn't excited to have to tap down the gate latch on my suppressor to lock it into place. Originally Posted By mra4523: Originally Posted By 545superiority: How exactly is the can tight on the barrel? On my m110 (with a Marvin pitts barrel) there is a snug fit at the flash hider, then plenty of slack around the barrel, and a snug fit on the gas block. I can't envision how it could be tight on the flash hider or gas block but not barrel. My apologies. Poor wording. When I stated barrel I meant the barrel as the entire muzzle end of the rifle to include the gas block and flash hider. Since those two have a larger outside diameter than the barrel itself there's no issue with the actual barrel. I think the tightness is just a new thing and it'll settle out as it ages. I just wasn't excited to have to tap down the gate latch on my suppressor to lock it into place. Just got my legacy 110 can in and I'm having exactly the same issue - I have to use a mallet to tap the latch down. And then I have to use a brass punch to tap it back out. I can definitely see some metal shavings each time I do this, so something must be ever so slightly just off tolerance wise. Don't know what to do though - whether I should just live with it knowing I need hand tools to latch it on and off or if there's something that can be filed or adjusted. But yeah, it's impossible to latch it on by hand - need a mallet. And likewise to take it off, need tools. |
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Originally Posted By wayfaerer320: @mra4523 Just got my legacy 110 can in and I'm having exactly the same issue - I have to use a mallet to tap the latch down. And then I have to use a brass punch to tap it back out. I can definitely see some metal shavings each time I do this, so something must be ever so slightly just off tolerance wise. Don't know what to do though - whether I should just live with it knowing I need hand tools to latch it on and off or if there's something that can be filed or adjusted. But yeah, it's impossible to latch it on by hand - need a mallet. And likewise to take it off, need tools. Originally Posted By wayfaerer320: Originally Posted By mra4523: Originally Posted By 545superiority: How exactly is the can tight on the barrel? On my m110 (with a Marvin pitts barrel) there is a snug fit at the flash hider, then plenty of slack around the barrel, and a snug fit on the gas block. I can't envision how it could be tight on the flash hider or gas block but not barrel. My apologies. Poor wording. When I stated barrel I meant the barrel as the entire muzzle end of the rifle to include the gas block and flash hider. Since those two have a larger outside diameter than the barrel itself there's no issue with the actual barrel. I think the tightness is just a new thing and it'll settle out as it ages. I just wasn't excited to have to tap down the gate latch on my suppressor to lock it into place. Just got my legacy 110 can in and I'm having exactly the same issue - I have to use a mallet to tap the latch down. And then I have to use a brass punch to tap it back out. I can definitely see some metal shavings each time I do this, so something must be ever so slightly just off tolerance wise. Don't know what to do though - whether I should just live with it knowing I need hand tools to latch it on and off or if there's something that can be filed or adjusted. But yeah, it's impossible to latch it on by hand - need a mallet. And likewise to take it off, need tools. Can you remove some shims from the MD and still have it timed correctly? |
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Can you remove some shims from the MD and still have it timed correctly? Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By wayfaerer320: Originally Posted By mra4523: Originally Posted By 545superiority: How exactly is the can tight on the barrel? On my m110 (with a Marvin pitts barrel) there is a snug fit at the flash hider, then plenty of slack around the barrel, and a snug fit on the gas block. I can't envision how it could be tight on the flash hider or gas block but not barrel. My apologies. Poor wording. When I stated barrel I meant the barrel as the entire muzzle end of the rifle to include the gas block and flash hider. Since those two have a larger outside diameter than the barrel itself there's no issue with the actual barrel. I think the tightness is just a new thing and it'll settle out as it ages. I just wasn't excited to have to tap down the gate latch on my suppressor to lock it into place. Just got my legacy 110 can in and I'm having exactly the same issue - I have to use a mallet to tap the latch down. And then I have to use a brass punch to tap it back out. I can definitely see some metal shavings each time I do this, so something must be ever so slightly just off tolerance wise. Don't know what to do though - whether I should just live with it knowing I need hand tools to latch it on and off or if there's something that can be filed or adjusted. But yeah, it's impossible to latch it on by hand - need a mallet. And likewise to take it off, need tools. Can you remove some shims from the MD and still have it timed correctly? Hah that was my non-technical explanation of what I think is off - the gas block being the slightest bit out of spec. But I could be totally wrong too - not an expert. It's a genuine KAC gas block too - as is the flash hider. |
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Originally Posted By wayfaerer320: That's certainly one idea, but I think what it is are the grooves that feed the suppressor gate latch on either side of the gas block - they seem to line up fine, but it looks like one side is just the tiniest bit not concave enough and the latch fang is doesn't have enough clearance to push it in by hand. That's where I see it's rubbing metal too - right in the center inside of that groove. Hah that was my non-technical explanation of what I think is off - the gas block being the slightest bit out of spec. But I could be totally wrong too - not an expert. It's a genuine KAC gas block too - as is the flash hider. Originally Posted By wayfaerer320: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By wayfaerer320: Originally Posted By mra4523: Originally Posted By 545superiority: How exactly is the can tight on the barrel? On my m110 (with a Marvin pitts barrel) there is a snug fit at the flash hider, then plenty of slack around the barrel, and a snug fit on the gas block. I can't envision how it could be tight on the flash hider or gas block but not barrel. My apologies. Poor wording. When I stated barrel I meant the barrel as the entire muzzle end of the rifle to include the gas block and flash hider. Since those two have a larger outside diameter than the barrel itself there's no issue with the actual barrel. I think the tightness is just a new thing and it'll settle out as it ages. I just wasn't excited to have to tap down the gate latch on my suppressor to lock it into place. Just got my legacy 110 can in and I'm having exactly the same issue - I have to use a mallet to tap the latch down. And then I have to use a brass punch to tap it back out. I can definitely see some metal shavings each time I do this, so something must be ever so slightly just off tolerance wise. Don't know what to do though - whether I should just live with it knowing I need hand tools to latch it on and off or if there's something that can be filed or adjusted. But yeah, it's impossible to latch it on by hand - need a mallet. And likewise to take it off, need tools. Can you remove some shims from the MD and still have it timed correctly? Hah that was my non-technical explanation of what I think is off - the gas block being the slightest bit out of spec. But I could be totally wrong too - not an expert. It's a genuine KAC gas block too - as is the flash hider. Break out the Dremel! 
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Here's what the gas block gate latch grooves look like after having to whack it on with a mallet and take it back off with a brass punch from the bottom of the latch fangs. It's definitely rubbing metal on the left side as you can see (and the tiny metal shavings I see afterwards is further evidence of this). So, not really sure exactly what the root of the problem is - if it's an out of spec KAC gas block, the flash hider is just ever so slightly too far forward, or something else, but whatever it is - it's off just EVER so slightly enough that this is occuring. Left side where the latch is making contact with the gas block latch groove: Attached File Right side: Attached File |
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When I mentioned to the guys at the mothership I was wanting to get a M110 PRG I was told to bring my gun to test fit. The first suppressor slid on but the gate would not close. They grabbed another one and everything worked as advertised. I guess it has something to do with stacking tolerances. It has now cleared ATF jail but I can’t get there till next week. Dan |
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Originally Posted By AGR1279: When I mentioned to the guys at the mothership I was wanting to get a M110 PRG I was told to bring my gun to test fit. The first suppressor slid on but the gate would not close. They grabbed another one and everything worked as advertised. I guess it has something to do with stacking tolerances. It has now cleared ATF jail but I can't get there till next week. Dan Thanks for sharing. Yeah not really sure what to do. Its not the end of the world as long as whacking it on with a mallet and knocking it out with a brass punch doesn't damage the gas block or suppressor. Maybe I can track down another gas block and see if swapping that out resolves it. Assuming we'll see another batch again. |
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Originally Posted By wayfaerer320: Interesting. Thanks for sharing. Yeah not really sure what to do. Its not the end of the world as long as whacking it on with a mallet and knocking it out with a brass punch doesn't damage the gas block or suppressor. Maybe I can track down another gas block and see if swapping that out resolves it. Assuming we'll see another batch again. I would contact Knights and see what they say. Daniel |
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Originally Posted By AGR1279: I would contact Knights and see what they say. Daniel Originally Posted By AGR1279: Originally Posted By wayfaerer320: Interesting. Thanks for sharing. Yeah not really sure what to do. Its not the end of the world as long as whacking it on with a mallet and knocking it out with a brass punch doesn't damage the gas block or suppressor. Maybe I can track down another gas block and see if swapping that out resolves it. Assuming we'll see another batch again. I would contact Knights and see what they say. Daniel Too late now since it was already transfered to me. It's good to know though that I'm not the only one encountering this issue. |
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Originally Posted By wayfaerer320: Yeah in a perfect world I'd just go and exchange my suppressor for another and see if another one fits better, but that's obviously not realistic hah. Too late now since it was already transfered to me. It's good to know though that I'm not the only one encountering this issue. I know you can’t swap. I meant ideas to alleviate the interference. Daniel |
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Originally Posted By AGR1279: I know you can't swap. I meant ideas to alleviate the interference. Daniel Originally Posted By AGR1279: Originally Posted By wayfaerer320: Yeah in a perfect world I'd just go and exchange my suppressor for another and see if another one fits better, but that's obviously not realistic hah. Too late now since it was already transfered to me. It's good to know though that I'm not the only one encountering this issue. I know you can't swap. I meant ideas to alleviate the interference. Daniel |
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This is with the gate latch up and the suppressor pushed as far back as it will go - doesn't appear as though it could be the flash hider that's sticking out just a tad too far - seems to sit flush against the index pin: Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By wayfaerer320: Here's what the gas block gate latch grooves look like after having to whack it on with a mallet and take it back off with a brass punch from the bottom of the latch fangs. It's definitely rubbing metal on the left side as you can see (and the tiny metal shavings I see afterwards is further evidence of this). So, not really sure exactly what the root of the problem is - if it's an out of spec KAC gas block, the flash hider is just ever so slightly too far forward, or something else, but whatever it is - it's off just EVER so slightly enough that this is occuring. Left side where the latch is making contact with the gas block latch groove: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/269084/1000013468_jpg-3800177.JPG Right side: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/269084/1000013469_jpg-3800176.JPG Side note, did you get the gas block/entire upper cerakoted? That could be what was causing the problem, tolerances on the suppressor alignment flange are pretty tight so adding the cerakote could have disagreed with it in a few minor dimensions |
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Originally Posted By thatARMSguy: If it's only rubbing on one side and directly in the center, I'd say either the left side bar on the latch is just barely too far inward or the left side notch in the gas block is barely too shallow. It's aligning off of the index pin so no issues with alignment as you posted recently, but it'd be putting unnatural wear on the left bar. I'd see about carefully filing down the middle of the gas block notch til the bar clears, then polish it up with some scotchbrite to clear off any burrs and rough spots. Side note, did you get the gas block/entire upper cerakoted? That could be what was causing the problem, tolerances on the suppressor alignment flange are pretty tight so adding the cerakote could have disagreed with it in a few minor dimensions Originally Posted By thatARMSguy: Originally Posted By wayfaerer320: Here's what the gas block gate latch grooves look like after having to whack it on with a mallet and take it back off with a brass punch from the bottom of the latch fangs. It's definitely rubbing metal on the left side as you can see (and the tiny metal shavings I see afterwards is further evidence of this). So, not really sure exactly what the root of the problem is - if it's an out of spec KAC gas block, the flash hider is just ever so slightly too far forward, or something else, but whatever it is - it's off just EVER so slightly enough that this is occuring. Left side where the latch is making contact with the gas block latch groove: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/269084/1000013468_jpg-3800177.JPG Right side: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/269084/1000013469_jpg-3800176.JPG Side note, did you get the gas block/entire upper cerakoted? That could be what was causing the problem, tolerances on the suppressor alignment flange are pretty tight so adding the cerakote could have disagreed with it in a few minor dimensions It's definitely rubbing more on the left side groove, but frankly, I can't even push the latch down at all without significant force with a mallet, so even at the top where the latch starts to fall downward, even up top there there isn't enough clearance for it to move down with just hand pressure. Debating filing the grooves, but I'm not a gunsmith and I certainly don't want to make anything worse by accident. |
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Originally Posted By wayfaerer320: The upper is cerakoted including the double pic rail section of the gas block, but the suppressor alignment flange isn't cerakoted - precisely for that reason. So, I don't think that'd be a factor. It's definitely rubbing more on the left side groove, but frankly, I can't even push the latch down at all without significant force with a mallet, so even at the top where the latch starts to fall downward, even up top there there isn't enough clearance for it to move down with just hand pressure. Debating filing the grooves, but I'm not a gunsmith and I certainly don't want to make anything worse by accident. Have you heard back from KAC for their suggestion. If you file on the GB and get another can then you have effectively married that gas block to the current can. The other option is to work on the leg of the gate. That way the radius on the GB aren't changed. Just food for thought. Daniel |
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Rule of thumb is to modify the least expensive / easiest to replace part first - in this case that seems to be the offending leg of the locking gate. As thatARMSguy pointed out above, the interference is in the bottom of the groove on the gas block. If the gate is removable from the suppressor, some very light sanding or stoning to the inside surface of said leg could probably fix the issue. Question: without trying to install the suppressor, does the locking gate open and close (run up and down) freely? |
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Originally Posted By AGR1279: Have you heard back from KAC for their suggestion. If you file on the GB and get another can then you have effectively married that gas block to the current can. The other option is to work on the leg of the gate. That way the radius on the GB aren't changed. Just food for thought. Daniel Originally Posted By havoc: Rule of thumb is to modify the least expensive / easiest to replace part first - in this case that seems to be the offending leg of the locking gate. As thatARMSguy pointed out above, the interference is in the bottom of the groove on the gas block. If the gate is removable from the suppressor, some very light sanding or stoning to the inside surface of said leg could probably fix the issue. Question: without trying to install the suppressor, does the locking gate open and close (run up and down) freely? |
No SAM-R thread in the KAC sub forum so I hope y'all don't get butt hurt seeing this in here. I felt like it belong in here     Bonus pics of the haboob that just rolled through   |
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Originally Posted By MNRidesHonda: No SAM-R thread in the KAC sub forum so I hope y'all don't get butt hurt seeing this in here. I felt like it belong in here https://i.imgur.com/gs4u7w2.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/YeKJcHg.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/R6qXfzO.jpeg Bonus pics of the haboob that just rolled through https://i.imgur.com/uBUd5M8.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/iJV9a9E.jpeg |
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Forgot to post pics of the completed gun: Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Awesome, looks very clean Originally Posted By wayfaerer320: Forgot to post pics of the completed gun: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/269084/20260817_164921_jpg-3813025.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/269084/20260817_165119_jpg-3813026.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/269084/20260817_165056_jpg-3813027.JPG |
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Originally Posted By ShaneWang: Awesome, looks very clean Originally Posted By ShaneWang: Awesome, looks very clean Originally Posted By wayfaerer320: Forgot to post pics of the completed gun: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/269084/20260817_164921_jpg-3813025.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/269084/20260817_165119_jpg-3813026.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/269084/20260817_165056_jpg-3813027.JPG |
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Originally Posted By AGR1279: I finally got the PRG home from ATF jail. I’ll get out next week to shoot it side by side with the welded can to see if there is much of POI shift. Daniel https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/17981/IMG_8360-3803104.jpg What's the update on how the PRG can performs vs the welded? |
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Originally Posted By wayfaerer320: Forgot to post pics of the completed gun: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/269084/20260817_164921_jpg-3813025.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/269084/20260817_165119_jpg-3813026.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/269084/20260817_165056_jpg-3813027.JPG  Looks awesome. Waiting for a can drop for mine. |
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disregard. Poured through the pages and what I have won't work. It was an SR25 Match barrel that was cut about an 1/8 shy. So, I will have to source a Mk11 barrel. I know Nefarious was producing some, but it seems not anymore. Any source for Mk 11 barrels? |
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disregard. Poured through the pages and what I have won't work. It was an SR25 Match barrel that was cut about an 1/8 shy. So, I will have to source a Mk11 barrel. I know Nefarious was producing some, but it seems not anymore. Any source for Mk 11 barrels? D Wilson Mfg |
Let's see your Mk11, M110, and military variants (: (Page 40 of 40)
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