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Posted: 2/13/2016 12:56:45 PM EDT
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I have loaded up some 223 rounds starting with 21.0 grains of 10x then went up .2 till I got to 22.6 grains. Brass is once fired LC sized polished and trimmed to 1.522.
Waiting on the little brown truck to bring my chronograph then I will see which one is best, Am I missing anything besides when I shoot them to check for pressure sign. These will be shot out of a AR with a 14.5 barrel. |
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I hope 1.522 is a typo. Throw away any brass you may have trimmed to this length.
Velocity isn't how most people determine which load is best, since that should correlate to powder charge. People conduct load development to find the most accurate load for their rifles. |
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People conduct load development to find the most accurate load for their rifles This^ Having chrono data is a bonus. Watch for signs of too light a charge; i.e. won't cycle, excessive soot on neck and shoulder. Watch for signs of over pressure by the primers (not always the best indication) on the high end. Glad that was a typo 
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I know this wasn't mentioned but new AR-15 rifles can be a little tight. I've seen some that would not cycle factory ammo if not well lubed (wet) with CLP or other lube. Just thought I'd mention it just in case. I don't want you to be fooled thinking your load is too light when actually its something else.
Good luck with your load development. Motor |
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I start at .5 or half grain below max. I'll load 5 rounds drop half grain, load another 5 rounds etc. I load for accuracy only for each rifle as long as the rifle functions as it should. I shoot for groups and pick the load accordingly. I will drop to .2 grains between loads if necessary to zero it in. Don't own a chrony, no plans of getting one. I don't care about a hundred FPS plus or minus, just accuracy.
If it's a supper hot load and you can't hit the side of the barn, what good is it.?? |
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My 18" rifle gas cycles fine down to at least 19.5gr of 10x under a 55fmj, you should be good there. 21.5 is sweet shooting in all my ARs, recoil impulse and accuracy, no chrono. Personally with bulk fmjs I do my load dev in .5gr intervals, bullet's not accurate enough to see the small differences IMO, YMMV especially with the Hornady it's better than most.
10x is not the best metering, but not the worst, and just a bit dirty, it is however economical when loading a lot for killing paper, there are better powders if max velocity is a concern. It is my go to for <300yd messing around at the range and the short range matches I shoot. |
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Quoted:
I start at .5 or half grain below max. I'll load 5 rounds drop half grain, load another 5 rounds etc. I load for accuracy only for each rifle as long as the rifle functions as it should. I shoot for groups and pick the load accordingly. I will drop to .2 grains between loads if necessary to zero it in. Don't own a chrony, no plans of getting one. I don't care about a hundred FPS plus or minus, just accuracy. If it's a supper hot load and you can't hit the side of the barn, what good is it.?? To each their own, but this is not the way a new re-loader should be developing a load. 0.5 grain below max might very well be over max for any particular gun. Always start low and go up... |
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Quoted:
To each their own, but this is not the way a new re-loader should be developing a load. 0.5 grain below max might very well be over max for any particular gun. Always start low and go up... Quoted:
Quoted:
I start at .5 or half grain below max. I'll load 5 rounds drop half grain, load another 5 rounds etc. I load for accuracy only for each rifle as long as the rifle functions as it should. I shoot for groups and pick the load accordingly. I will drop to .2 grains between loads if necessary to zero it in. Don't own a chrony, no plans of getting one. I don't care about a hundred FPS plus or minus, just accuracy. If it's a supper hot load and you can't hit the side of the barn, what good is it.?? To each their own, but this is not the way a new re-loader should be developing a load. 0.5 grain below max might very well be over max for any particular gun. Always start low and go up... I agree. The process is back asswards, especially so for a new reloader. I've been reloading for decades and still, I start low and work my way up. New rifle, new barrel, new cartridge, new bullet or anything new - start low and work up. P.S. - I agree with the assertion a chronograph is not necessary. I agree that accuracy is way more important than velocity. Safety is most important of all. Safety trumps everything else. |
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Start at book minimum and work up is best for beginners.
Keep in mind that trying to match book FPS, most data is recorded with a 24 inch barrel in a controlled environment. Work up to find your best accuracy node. A chrono is very useful to check your ES and SD on your loads so you can adjust your loads for consistency one you find a accurate load. |
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Quoted:
Start at book minimum and work up is best for beginners. Keep in mind that trying to match book FPS, most data is recorded with a 24 inch barrel in a controlled environment. Work up to find your best accuracy node. A chrono is very useful to check your ES and SD on your loads so you can adjust your loads for consistency one you find a accurate load. Sir, I'm glad someone mentioned what I believe is the primary utility of a chronograph. When I do chrono testing I set up the screens down range aligned with a 200 yard distant target and shoot for accuracy across the chronograph. The chronograph will not only show the individual velocities but further the ES and SD point you in the direction of the most consistent load. In my experience I can get some really good groups with a number of loads but the ES and SD tell me which one is the better choice for across the course competition. Once that load is determined, as Mr. Flashbang points out, further adjustment of the powder charge in small increments can be beneficial toward further reduction of the ES and SD. All of which becomes important when trying to maintain a tight group in variable light and wind conditions. For the OP; in you initial post you mentioned you are using once fired LC brass. Although you didn't mention it I assume you realize the primer pockets of such brass has been crimped and that crimp must be removed before new primers can be properly seated. Lastly, I've found it of some benefit to uniform the primer pockets depth and deburr the primer flash hole both from the inside of the case as well as outside. HTH, 7zero1. |
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