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Posted: 2/24/2010 11:29:56 AM EDT
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I am in the beginning stage of working up a load to shoot in my 24"varmint Ar15. I plan to work in increments with different powders until I find what is optimum. My question is to someone who has done this as it would save me
considerable time. How much change in weight would you do at a time? And would you use a manual or an autofeed electronic scale. I only get to my range on a weekly basis and would like to save time. |
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Most people here will advise you to work up all your loads. You wouldn't want to just take someone's word for something. Read your manuals, start at starting loads and slowly work up from there. For .223 from the bottom end i work up in 1 gr increments till i get close to max, then i load in in .5 gr increments, you only need to load 3 or 5 of each increment. Never take someone's load data without working it up yourself. You could grenade your gun, or yourself doing that.
Reloading isn't a hobby for people who want to take shortcuts. If you want shortcuts go to the store and buy factory ammo. |
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Quoted:
I am in the beginning stage of working up a load to shoot in my 24"varmint Ar15. I plan to work in increments with different powders until I find what is optimum. My question is to someone who has done this as it would save me considerable time. How much change in weight would you do at a time? And would you use a manual or an autofeed electronic scale. I only get to my range on a weekly basis and would like to save time. What bullet do you plan on using? Powder? go to the Hodgdon website and look at their load data, cross reference this from others, start low, and work up. My first increment may be .5, then .2 for at least two more. I use an electronic scale for each load. I would like to have a autofeed electronic. Edit for data from Hodgdon... "55 GR. SPR SP Hodgdon Varget .224" 2.200" 25.5 3174 " I use the 55 GR HDY FMJ-BT....very good results.... |
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Most people here will advise you to work up all your loads. You wouldn't want to just take someone's word for something. Read your manuals, start at starting loads and slowly work up from there. For .223 from the bottom end i work up in 1 gr increments till i get close to max, then i load in in .5 gr increments, you only need to load 3 or 5 of each increment. Never take someone's load data without working it up yourself. You could grenade your gun, or yourself doing that. Reloading isn't a hobby for people who want to take shortcuts. If you want shortcuts go to the store and buy factory ammo. All he is asking is how what size steps you take when you work up a load. do you go from 23-24-25 or 23.2-23.4-23.6 etc. |
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For me it depends on the actual spread from Minimum to Maximum load.
If its a rifle and has a 3-4 grain spread I will work up in .5 grain steps. Once I find a potential sweet spot I will work up a second batch in .2 steps around the sweet spot. For pistol where the spread may only be 1.5 grains I use .2 |
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Everyone claims that every gun in the world is different, even ones made in order off the same machine MAY shoot identical ammo totally differently. Not that I buy that, but that is the answer most common here. Forensics even says that, but what do I know I'm an ar-junkie not a scientist.
My opinion you should just bite the bullet and do it yourself like the manual says. |
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I am in the beginning stage of working up a load to shoot in my 24"varmint Ar15. I plan to work in increments with different powders until I find what is optimum. My question is to someone who has done this as it would save me considerable time. How much change in weight would you do at a time? And would you use a manual or an autofeed electronic scale. I only get to my range on a weekly basis and would like to save time. For .223 , I would go by ~ .5 grain steps . I use a Lee disk powder measure . And check it with a mechanical beam ballance scale . Use the best quality bullet you can afford . God bless Wyr |
| Ar bandit, it does make a difference even from the same batch of barrels. There are microscope differences in the metal as the reamer passes through and different break in methods cause the pores to close differently as well. There will also be tight spots in some barrels at different points. |
| Thanks all. I am experienced and the first thing I do is consult my manual. I usually start with minimum loads and shoot 4 targets/5shot each target and compare and average the four excluding flyers. I will move up .5 gns and do the same. Depending on results I will either quit or go to maximum charge. If results don't suit I will go to another powder and repeat the process. I am also using manual scales for half and dispenser/electronic for the other half. A long process but should give me the results I am looking for. |
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Reloading isn't a hobby for people who want to take shortcuts. If you want shortcuts go to the store and buy factory ammo. Gee Ward.......Don't you think you were a little hard on the Beaver? Lol, nah. I'm only speaking the truth. There is no good shortcuts in load development. I know it sounded like it, but I wasn't trying to be mean.... |
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Reloading isn't a hobby for people who want to take shortcuts. If you want shortcuts go to the store and buy factory ammo. Gee Ward.......Don't you think you were a little hard on the Beaver? Lol, nah. I'm only speaking the truth. There is no good shortcuts in load development. I know it sounded like it, but I wasn't trying to be mean.... Tough love 
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From this point on I think that YZ250rider should forever be known as Ward Cleaver. He should work the loads up from the minimum however. Also OP, when working up a new load I would suggest that you weigh every charge. Also, rather than shooting a bunch of groups with different weights of powder, I have a suggestion. If you have at least 100, but preferably 2- 300 yards available to you, load about 5 of each increment, and I would load them at .2-.3 tenths difference at the most, from minimum to maximum. Mark each case to identify, ( I use various numbers stripes, vertically and then horizontally), with a marker. Use one bullseye for you targer, but have a large cardboard backer, then fire each shot, marking the location of the impact on paper at your table, or walk up and mark them on the target. Check for pressure as you go. When you have fired all that are safe, you will see that a pattern has developed where some of your loads will be grouped very closely together, and others will be much larger. Take the loads that were the best and load ten or fifteen of those, ( usually about three or four), and then fire several five shot groups. That will tell you which is the most accurate.
If the utmost accuracy isn't your goal, and reliability with similar performance as factory or military loads is. Fire the loads you are wanting to match through a chronograph, and then work up your load until you match the velocity, or until you reach pressure signs. Always back away from the loads with signs of pressure. I load my plinking ammo this way. It's worked well for me in all calibers I've loaded. Good luck. |
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This is how I do it. Take the maximum load listed by the bullet manufacturer for your powder/bullet combination. Load five rounds at the max. In -.3 grain increments do the same thing in groups of five. Make sure you're lightest load (starting load) using this method is at least 1.5 grains under max in .223.
Shoot them in reverse order of the way you loaded them. Shooting the lightest load first, and keeping the brass collected, seperated and marked for future inspection. Watch for pressure signs. Use a chronograph if you have access to one. Go downrange between each set of five to change targets. This allows the rifle to cool between groups. Write on each target the powder charge and bullet weight, primer used and oal. Keep the target with the brass. When you get any pressure signs stop the testing. If you exceed the published maximum velocity and your barrel is the same length as the one in their manual stop the testing. Be extra careful when approaching the last three sets of test ammo. .3 grain increments is 30 fps to 40 fps on average in .223. You'll find a powder range your rifle likes using this method. Try to stick with popular powders, there is a reason why they are popular, they work. Disassemble all loads that showed pressure and anything loaded hotter. This must be done immediately or mark the ammo with a majic marker and place it in a container with a "note to self". My method is contrary to most reloading advice. It will give you results quicker than the -10% starting method. Most people want the best accuracy, useful velocities and safety. My method sacrifices a little on the safety side, I'm probably -5% from maximum on my starting load. This has never caused me any problems............so far. YMMV. I believe my method gets me a decent load quicker than going the -10% method. The more you reload and become familiar with your powders, bullets and brass the more predictable it gets. I don't know what I would do without a chronograph. When I make a change in components I can back off a little and see what velocities I'm getting. I'm not guessing anymore and have years of notes to work from. Otherwise I would have to start lower, work up and watch for pressure signs with each little change. The worst part is I still wouldn't know my velocity and in a round about way what the real pressures are. |
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I have a RRA Predator Pursuit with stainless 20 inch 1:8 twist wylde chamber.I started on low side of data and worked up some loads til i got my best accuracy.
I have used powders like TAC, H322, H335 and varget. I was at the range last week and a guy was shooting the exact same gun and he got better groups from 69 g Sierra HPBT matchkings with 25.5 varget CCI400 and i told him my best have been 55gr Nosler ballistic Tip 26.4 H335 with CCI450.I had shot the load he likes best but my gun don't shoot it that good.My best accurate loads are the 55 Nosler above and Sierra 52 gr HPBT matchking with 25.8 H335 CCI#41 2.250 OAL. Other loads that were pretty good where Hornady 55gr VMAX 24.4 H335 CCI#41, 2.250, Hornady 55gr FMJ 25.5 TAC CCI#41 2.238, Nosler 55gr Spitzer 25.6 TAC CCI #41 2.249 You can check the data on those loads and are at or below max. I notice Hornady book shows less max then some others same bullets and powders. |
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