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Posted: 10/16/2013 4:16:31 PM EDT
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I noticed that when I was inserting the primer into some of my casings, some went in with very little resistance, while others went in with a nice amount of resistance like they should be. None of them are so loose that they fall out, but I am concerned that they may pop out when fired.
Should I be concerned? -If the primer pops out when fired, what effect does this have on the rifle? -Should I go through and remove all the primers I inserted and re-insert new ones to identify the ones with low resistance and throw those casings out? All the casings have been swaged to remove the factory crimp. Thanks for the input guys. -AE2 (realized this should have gone in the reloading section) |
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By chance, are we discussing Federal or LC once fired brass from 09?
A micrometer can check the OD of your primers easy enough. The ID on the case requires a Deltronic pin or gage pin. Some brass I have inspected in the last several years, which was unfired Federal LC, has out of print primer bores. |
| I think you'll be fine. I've had 8mm mauser fully pierced primers (makes about the same hole as a .223 hole) and some smoke and small bits come your way. That's a hefty load and a good reason to shoot with safety glasses. The ones I've that have gone in easy, don't appear to even back out a bit. |
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One sign of worn brass is that primers become loose. If the brass is new, then it could just be the spec. And some primers are tighter than others.
With my .45 Colt, Herter's brass, I almost cannot get Winchester primers to fit. Really tight. OTOH, Winchester primers fit just fine in Winchester brass. |
Welcome to Arfcom and the Reloading Forum. Loose primer pockets are bad in AR ammo, or any other ammo. Sometimes the popped out primer will shake out of your lower, other times they will jam up and can only be removed at home. (lots of bad words here) So if I feel a primer seat too easy, I put to my little test.  I mounted the base of mine in a wood block. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/297408/lee-decapper-and-base-22-caliber This decapper is designed to strike the punch with a hammer to remove the primer. Left side on the bench I have my 22 punch that is turned down (sandpaper and a drill). Has to be to fit in a sized case neck. So what I do is push on the punch with my hand. If I can push the primer out, that case is scrap. I then reseat that primer in another case. If I can't push primer out, case gets loaded. Rifle or pistol, works the same way. |
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Quoted:
Welcome to Arfcom and the Reloading Forum.
Loose primer pockets are bad in AR ammo, or any other ammo. Sometimes the popped out primer will shake out of your lower, other times they will jam up and can only be removed at home. (lots of bad words here) So if I feel a primer seat too easy, I put to my little test. <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Tools/P3070417.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Tools/P3070417.jpg</a> I mounted the base of mine in a wood block. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/297408/lee-decapper-and-base-22-caliber This decapper is designed to strike the punch with a hammer to remove the primer. Left side on the bench I have my 22 punch that is turned down (sandpaper and a drill). Has to be to fit in a sized case neck. So what I do is push on the punch with my hand. If I can push the primer out, that case is scrap. I then reseat that primer in another case. If I can't push primer out, case gets loaded. Rifle or pistol, works the same way. WOW! |
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Quoted: Welcome to Arfcom and the Reloading Forum. Loose primer pockets are bad in AR ammo, or any other ammo. Sometimes the popped out primer will shake out of your lower, other times they will jam up and can only be removed at home. (lots of bad words here) So if I feel a primer seat too easy, I put to my little test. I mounted the base of mine in a wood block. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/297408/lee-decapper-and-base-22-caliber This decapper is designed to strike the punch with a hammer to remove the primer. Left side on the bench I have my 22 punch that is turned down (sandpaper and a drill). Has to be to fit in a sized case neck. So what I do is push on the punch with my hand. If I can push the primer out, that case is scrap. I then reseat that primer in another case. If I can't push primer out, case gets loaded. Rifle or pistol, works the same way. I haven't done this, but it is a very good idea. |
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Whether it's once fired brass or your own reloaded brass, a loose primer pocket indicates permanent expansion in the case head and you get that from excessive pressure.
Now, if it's a surplus case, it may be the result of something like a round heat soaking in a hot chamber before it was fired and was thus being over pressure with what is already a high pressure load. But if they are your re-loads, then you need to take a serious look at your loads and loading practices. In any case, you don't want to re-use any case where the primer pocket is noticeably loose. If you are loading on a single stage press, you'll detect those cases with a hand priming tool like the Lee priming tool and no heroic methods or procedures are required. If you are loading on a Dillon, you should still be able to feel when the de-capping pin contacts the primer and feel the ones that are too easy to unseat. If not, you're not using enough case lube. When I am loading surplus 5.56mm brass, I'll decap and then swage the primer pocket, then hand prime it to ensure I don't miss a bad one. That also means I remove the decapping pin from the die (just the pin, not the expander ball) when I load the round on the press. |
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Quoted:
By chance, are we discussing Federal or LC once fired brass from 09? A micrometer can check the OD of your primers easy enough. The ID on the case requires a Deltronic pin or gage pin. Some brass I have inspected in the last several years, which was unfired Federal LC, has out of print primer bores. Please tell us/me more about 09 LC Iv got more 09 than anything 
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OP, need more information - caliber, "case history". Assume these are once fired military surplus rifle cases? Where did you get them? How many are we talking about?
Note you said: "All the casings have been swaged to remove the factory crimp." What equipment / process are you using? Are you careful to follow instructions? Its probably ok to shoot them, but need more information. |
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-If the primer pops out when fired, what effect does this have on the rifle?  The Receiver Rug acts as a barrier between your AR15's trigger parts and blown primers or other debris that can jam up your rifle cold. It is designed to be installed in the bottom of your lower receiver and will prevent anything from wedging underneath the trigger, keeping you in the competition or in the fight.
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Quoted:
I noticed that when I was inserting the primer into some of my casings, some went in with very little resistance, while others went in with a nice amount of resistance like they should be. None of them are so loose that they fall out, but I am concerned that they may pop out when fired. Should I be concerned? -If the primer pops out when fired, what effect does this have on the rifle?-Should I go through and remove all the primers I inserted and re-insert new ones to identify the ones with low resistance and throw those casings out? All the casings have been swaged to remove the factory crimp. Thanks for the input guys. -AE2 (realized this should have gone in the reloading section) No effect at all, unless it falls into the FCG. The bolt and it's face is another issue |
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