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Low budget Annealing (Page 2 of 3)
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Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Yes, I state that in the first post. As case rotates you can see the spot of Tempilaq as it comes around. Apply heat to the case shoulder and the Tempilaq will disappear (melt) in 4-5 seconds. At this point take the heat away and drop case in metal pan to cool. Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By Shadowden:
Thanks dryflash, very informative and I appreciate you taking the time to take pictures and post them. I'm guessing it's in the instructions, but tempilacque works as an indicator by becoming transparent once it reaches the indicated temperature, right. I believe that is what I read on another forum after some additional research after your previous download of some knowledge to me. It may be helpful to the original thread for us real new to reloading. Thanks! As case rotates you can see the spot of Tempilaq as it comes around. Apply heat to the case shoulder and the Tempilaq will disappear (melt) in 4-5 seconds. At this point take the heat away and drop case in metal pan to cool. Indeed you did. I'm looking forward to trying this method out. Thanks again! |
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Originally Posted By Trollslayer: I did not use Tempilaq but it could have easily been added to the process, had I wanted to do so. I mentioned this method because none of the processes above monitor or control the temperature/temper of the case heads. The issue addressed by using water remains valid - it controls the temperature of the case head. If you heat the case mouth and melt the Tempilaq and maybe go above the minimum melt of the Tempilaq, what temperature did your case head reach? Originally Posted By Trollslayer: Originally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By Trollslayer: The few times I've annealed case mouths, it was with the cases standing in a shallow pan filled with water (to ensure the case head does not get over 212 deg F and will not get annealed). That's the old school uncontrolled, not using Tempilaq, method. Water no longer has a use if you use Tempilaq correctly, unless you want to add an unnecessary step and the drying time. I did not use Tempilaq but it could have easily been added to the process, had I wanted to do so. I mentioned this method because none of the processes above monitor or control the temperature/temper of the case heads. The issue addressed by using water remains valid - it controls the temperature of the case head. If you heat the case mouth and melt the Tempilaq and maybe go above the minimum melt of the Tempilaq, what temperature did your case head reach? As previously stated as soon as Tempilaq melts, drop case in pan. You don't keep heating the case after 750 Tempilaq melts on the case neck. If you were worried about the case head over heating, apply 450 degree Tempilaq to the case head to ensure that case head doesn't overheat. Deep socket protects case head from heat so 450 degree Tempilaq is not required. Water is also not needed. If you want to promote a water method of annealing, please start your own thread. I started this thread so I had someplace to refer posters to when they wanted to anneal without the high cost of an annealing bench tool and with modern methods. Please post pics of your annealed cases next to factory annealed cases. eta, poster edited his previous posts about water. Thanks. |
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I ran some tests tonight and found no measurable difference in OAL or headspace after annealing. Ill post up some pics tomorrow.
This is the first time I've used tempilaq.. This may be a stupid question, but what exactly does it look like when it "liquefies" to indicate the right temp is reached? Does the color just disappear? Got any pics of the liquid after it has melted so I can compare (I didn't take pics of mine). It did seem my color was a little light on the brass compared to factory annealed. |
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Originally Posted By drfroglegs:
I ran some tests tonight and found no measurable difference in OAL or headspace after annealing. Ill post up some pics tomorrow. This is the first time I've used tempilaq.. This may be a stupid question, but what exactly does it look like when it "liquefies" to indicate the right temp is reached? Does the color just disappear? Got any pics of the liquid after it has melted so I can compare (I didn't take pics of mine). It did seem my color was a little light on the brass compared to factory annealed. Depending on lighting, it can go frosty white, sort of disappear, or otherwise just "change." It's a pretty sudden change, and I think what exactly you see depends on how thick the Tempilaq was applied and how quickly/slowly it gets hot. It's something I'd like to be able to do a video of, but I don't really have that capability... "You'll know it when you see it" isn't a satisfying answer, but that's what works for me. The color marking on the case afterward is pretty definitive though...Every one of my cases shows that marking after annealing. I'll point out that, with my electric screwdriver turning the case, there's a fair-sized window for seeing the change, and I've found that it's not terribly critical if you see the change as it happens or if you see it a fraction of a second later. |
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First of all, thanks dryflash for putting this thread together, finally convinced me to get my act together wrt annealing.
I did a few tests (as discussed in an earlier post) to see if annealing changes the case any. I tested 3 cases, measuring their headspace (Hornady B-gauge IIRC) and the OAL. 
The data suggests there is no statistically significant change in the brass post annealing, so I would argue it doesn't really matter when you anneal. I do think that we should anneal before we resize (or before we form the neck on the 300 BLK) because it will reduce split necks caused by resizing. BUT, if you have already resized your cases I believe there is no need to resize them and/or trim them again if you anneal. |
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Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Depending on lighting, it can go frosty white, sort of disappear, or otherwise just "change." It's a pretty sudden change, and I think what exactly you see depends on how thick the Tempilaq was applied and how quickly/slowly it gets hot. It's something I'd like to be able to do a video of, but I don't really have that capability... "You'll know it when you see it" isn't a satisfying answer, but that's what works for me. The color marking on the case afterward is pretty definitive though...Every one of my cases shows that marking after annealing. I'll point out that, with my electric screwdriver turning the case, there's a fair-sized window for seeing the change, and I've found that it's not terribly critical if you see the change as it happens or if you see it a fraction of a second later. Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By drfroglegs:
I ran some tests tonight and found no measurable difference in OAL or headspace after annealing. Ill post up some pics tomorrow. This is the first time I've used tempilaq.. This may be a stupid question, but what exactly does it look like when it "liquefies" to indicate the right temp is reached? Does the color just disappear? Got any pics of the liquid after it has melted so I can compare (I didn't take pics of mine). It did seem my color was a little light on the brass compared to factory annealed. Depending on lighting, it can go frosty white, sort of disappear, or otherwise just "change." It's a pretty sudden change, and I think what exactly you see depends on how thick the Tempilaq was applied and how quickly/slowly it gets hot. It's something I'd like to be able to do a video of, but I don't really have that capability... "You'll know it when you see it" isn't a satisfying answer, but that's what works for me. The color marking on the case afterward is pretty definitive though...Every one of my cases shows that marking after annealing. I'll point out that, with my electric screwdriver turning the case, there's a fair-sized window for seeing the change, and I've found that it's not terribly critical if you see the change as it happens or if you see it a fraction of a second later. The problem I was having is if I paint a line around the inside of the neck, it seems to disappear completely, but if I put a dot it seems to not really change at all (I guess because it is so concentrated). My cases seem to be on the lighter side when compared to factory cases... My torch has a pretty broad flame (not very concentrated), so I'm wondering if it's the heat from the flame that's melting the templiaq and not the heat from the brass? I guess experience will tell, the rounds I've done so far pass the "crush test" so I'm at least not over annealing them. |
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Originally Posted By drfroglegs: I ran some tests tonight and found no measurable difference in OAL or headspace after annealing. Ill post up some pics tomorrow. This is the first time I've used tempilaq.. This may be a stupid question, but what exactly does it look like when it "liquefies" to indicate the right temp is reached? Does the color just disappear? Got any pics of the liquid after it has melted so I can compare (I didn't take pics of mine). It did seem my color was a little light on the brass compared to factory annealed. No pics. Will be a black smear/smudge. As case rotates I see the blue dot of Tempilaq. Then it disappears from view, that is when I drop case into pan. So apply heat and count to 4.....Tempilaq will melt this or the next time around. This is how it works with the RPM of my battery screwdriver/rotating device. YMMV |
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By request of drfroglegs in the 300blk master thread:
Ran a quick transient heat analysis [on temperature distribution in a 300 blk case after removing a torch], within about 5 seconds, none of the case is above 450° F, and it doesn't propagate very far down the wall at all. 450° is yellow in this simulation result. Total time is 20 seconds [This simulation was done in] Autodesk Simulation Mechanical. You're more than welcome to distribute it (but please host it yourself if you do - if it eats my bandwidth, I will remove it). Assumes a perfect cutoff at the top of the socket in initial temperature, where the case mouth is at 775° F and the case body is room temp with a more-or-less instantaneous gradient between. It assumes a vacuum (i.e.: no heat is transferred into or out of the case - the mass-weighted average case temperature is constant), which is obviously the worst case scenario. I could add water or air, but all it would do is prove the point further - there's no sense in dumping the cases in water. The only mechanism by which you could overheat the body of the case would be contact with another case's shoulder as that case is dumped into the pile, but even then, the case temperature is completely below 450° within a second or so of the removal of the heat source. 
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I've been trying to anneal. Using tempilaq 750, a 10mm deep well socket, hand held electric screwdriver and a propane torch. I cannot get the tempilaq to change colors to clear. I kept a couple cases in the heat for a while and the tempilaq turned black, but it was far beyond the 4-5 seconds recommended. My cases do not appear to be changing colors like the factory annealed 5.56 cases I have or the ones posted here. The one I left in heat for a while did, but being new to all of this I'm afraid of over annealing.
Should there be any green tinge whatsoever on the case from the tempilaq or should it ask be clear/black? The one I left in a while looks to have some orange on the perimeter of the black where the tempilaq was. Is that evidence of over doing it? Can the tempilaq be applied too thick? |
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The Tempilaq never gets clear or changes color. What happens is you see it as the case comes around, then it vanishes. That's when you drop case into the metal pan to cool. If you are holding the blue part of the torch flame on the neck, this takes 4 or 5 seconds. |
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Thanks dryflash. When it dissapears, will it reappear once it cools or does it end up down in the case? I know case coloration isn't the best indicator, but I see no difference between my "annealed" cases and non-annealed cases. Is that possible (again, seems unlikely)?
This really shouldn't be hard, but I am doing my best to make it seem that way. Only things left to try is a slower hand held screwdriver and a new propane bottle. This one is about out, but that shouldn't matter I wouldn't think. Thanks again. |
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Originally Posted By Shadowden:
Thanks dryflash. When it dissapears, will it reappear once it cools or does it end up down in the case? I know case coloration isn't the best indicator, but I see no difference between my "annealed" cases and non-annealed cases. Is that possible (again, seems unlikely)? This really shouldn't be hard, but I am doing my best to make it seem that way. Only things left to try is a slower hand held screwdriver and a new propane bottle. This one is about out, but that shouldn't matter I wouldn't think. Thanks again. Sometimes, the color difference in the brass post-annealing can be hard to detect. The tempilaq will not reappear, it (kind of) dissolves once you reach full temperature. At the very least, you should feel a difference between annealed and non-annealed cases in terms of how hard they are to size (assuming uniform lube). With the tempilaq, there's basically no question as to whether you've annealed the case or not. Without it, you're just guessing. |
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Originally Posted By Shadowden: Thanks dryflash. When it dissapears, will it reappear once it cools or does it end up down in the case? I know case coloration isn't the best indicator, but I see no difference between my "annealed" cases and non-annealed cases. Is that possible (again, seems unlikely)? It disappears as in gone, never to return. Originally Posted By Shadowden: Thanks dryflash. When it dissapears, will it reappear once it cools or does it end up down in the case? I know case coloration isn't the best indicator, but I see no difference between my "annealed" cases and non-annealed cases. Is that possible (again, seems unlikely)? It disappears as in gone, never to return. How clean is your brass? Maybe that is why you can't see the change. I'm using wet tumbled cases. This really shouldn't be hard, but I am doing my best to make it seem that way. Only things left to try is a slower hand held screwdriver and a new propane bottle. This one is about out, but that shouldn't matter I wouldn't think. Thanks again. |
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Originally Posted By Shadowden:
Thanks dryflash. When it dissapears, will it reappear once it cools or does it end up down in the case? I know case coloration isn't the best indicator, but I see no difference between my "annealed" cases and non-annealed cases. Is that possible (again, seems unlikely)? This really shouldn't be hard, but I am doing my best to make it seem that way. Only things left to try is a slower hand held screwdriver and a new propane bottle. This one is about out, but that shouldn't matter I wouldn't think. Thanks again. The Tempilaq doesn't "melt," it "changes." So what you're looking for is seeing the Tempilaq go from the original color to "something distinctly different." It may seem to disappear, or it may just look very different at that point while you're heating the case. Timing isn't extremely critical, but you want to stop heating once you see the change. I find that LOTS OF LIGHT is extremely useful in watching for the Tempilaq to change - for my last batch, I had several regular lights on the work and I used a cap light (clipped on the brim of a baseball cap) to add even more. I was able to see the change much more clearly because of the added light. In dryflash3's pictures, his Tempilaq dots look perfect, but mine look more like smears inside the case. After annealing the smears are there, just not the greenish color of the original application. Once the case cools there will be a residue from the Tempilaq; in my cases (wet tumbled, really clean .223 brass cut down to rough length), the residue looks like a chalky streak. After annealing, I form my cases down to 300 Blackout profile, and then trim them with a Giraud trimmer. The Tempilaq residue is still there, but neither the cases nor the bullets seem to mind. 
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Originally Posted By GHPorter: I use the same setup: a Lowes 10mm deep well socket and a (very) cheap electric screwdriver. The speed of the rotation isn't' a problem for me, but you have to know what you're looking for, and you have to be able to see it. The Tempilaq doesn't "melt," it "changes." So what you're looking for is seeing the Tempilaq go from the original color to "something distinctly different." It may seem to disappear, or it may just look very different at that point while you're heating the case. Timing isn't extremely critical, but you want to stop heating once you see the change. I find that LOTS OF LIGHT is extremely useful in watching for the Tempilaq to change - for my last batch, I had several regular lights on the work and I used a cap light (clipped on the brim of a baseball cap) to add even more. I was able to see the change much more clearly because of the added light. In dryflash3's pictures, his Tempilaq dots look perfect, but mine look more like smears inside the case. After annealing the smears are there, just not the greenish color of the original application. Once the case cools there will be a residue from the Tempilaq; in my cases (wet tumbled, really clean .223 brass cut down to rough length), the residue looks like a chalky streak. After annealing, I form my cases down to 300 Blackout profile, and then trim them with a Giraud trimmer. The Tempilaq residue is still there, but neither the cases nor the bullets seem to mind. Originally Posted By GHPorter: Originally Posted By Shadowden: Thanks dryflash. When it dissapears, will it reappear once it cools or does it end up down in the case? I know case coloration isn't the best indicator, but I see no difference between my "annealed" cases and non-annealed cases. Is that possible (again, seems unlikely)? This really shouldn't be hard, but I am doing my best to make it seem that way. Only things left to try is a slower hand held screwdriver and a new propane bottle. This one is about out, but that shouldn't matter I wouldn't think. Thanks again. The Tempilaq doesn't "melt," it "changes." So what you're looking for is seeing the Tempilaq go from the original color to "something distinctly different." It may seem to disappear, or it may just look very different at that point while you're heating the case. Timing isn't extremely critical, but you want to stop heating once you see the change. I find that LOTS OF LIGHT is extremely useful in watching for the Tempilaq to change - for my last batch, I had several regular lights on the work and I used a cap light (clipped on the brim of a baseball cap) to add even more. I was able to see the change much more clearly because of the added light. In dryflash3's pictures, his Tempilaq dots look perfect, but mine look more like smears inside the case. After annealing the smears are there, just not the greenish color of the original application. Once the case cools there will be a residue from the Tempilaq; in my cases (wet tumbled, really clean .223 brass cut down to rough length), the residue looks like a chalky streak. After annealing, I form my cases down to 300 Blackout profile, and then trim them with a Giraud trimmer. The Tempilaq residue is still there, but neither the cases nor the bullets seem to mind. Good explanation. Yes slow speed and good light is the key to success. |
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I found a slower speed screwdriver in the house, added light, and turned the torch up to max. I approached the flame a little differently so I could see the tempilaq better and feel I am getting good results now. Would still be nice to see an experiended person do it though. Setting the seating die for a 220 gn nosler and as i was typing this ended up shoving thebullet into the case when testing neck tension. Seemed like a good amount of pressure was needed, but on to new problems to solve I guess.
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Originally Posted By LonghunterCO: Sorry if i messed it. Are you annealing before every reloading or on some other schedule (every other time, every thrid time, etc.)? I anneal when forming cases and every 5th firing after. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3:
I anneal when forming cases and every 5th firing after. Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By LonghunterCO:
Sorry if i messed it. Are you annealing before every reloading or on some other schedule (every other time, every thrid time, etc.)? I anneal when forming cases and every 5th firing after. This is also what I do. There's just not enough cold work in one firing cycle to justify annealing every time. |
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I used this method last week to anneal approximately 400 .308 cases. I used much the same equipment as dryflash shows.
I found redipping the brush after each "dot" resulted in the best results for the Tempilaq. I barely used any for as many cases as I did. One bottle should last a few thousand cases. Four to five seconds is what it took to reach the correct temperature to make the Tempilaq disappear. I did mine outdoors, on a rainy day, and had little difficulty seeing the "disappearance". I just watched the "dot" go round until it was gone. Like others, I found my cases didn't discolor like factory annealed cases (XM193 for example). They did appear slightly discolored and dull compared to the rest of the case. I annealed after tumbling, but before sizing/trimming/prep. I then tumbled again before loading to remove case lube. They were noticeably easier to full length resize than non-annealed cases. Thanks dryflash for taking a lot of the mystique out of annealing! Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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I find that my cases discolor later, a while after they cool.
I'm going to go with only one or two cases per brush dip next time I do a batch of cases. |
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Wow, dryflash3 was right. the link for McMaster Carr is the best place to order the tempilaq. I ordered the 750 degree liquid and a bottle of the thinner for what any other place was going. really fast shipping too. didn't think UPS moved that fast.
Now to put together the rest of the little items so I can start annealing. Thanks again for your great threads dryflash3 |
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Originally Posted By Nightwolf357: Wow, dryflash3 was right. the link for McMaster Carr is the best place to order the tempilaq. I ordered the 750 degree liquid and a bottle of the thinner for what any other place was going. really fast shipping too. didn't think UPS moved that fast. Now to put together the rest of the little items so I can start annealing. Thanks again for your great threads dryflash3 Your welcome.  |
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I just tried this myself, but with only 1 case.
I chopped a "TAA 08" headstamp with the portaband, cleaned up the cut, annealed as described, and lubed it up and ran it through the sizing die. I then trimmed to length. What im running into is, checking it with the Hornaday headspace comp. tool, Im about .007 long. (1.085") Question. Is it the TAA case, not enough anneal, or normal for the reform? Should I have to reset the sizing die to form brass? I ran it in and out 2 or 3 times, but no change. Do I need another sizing die, screwed in deeper for the reform, and then size with the die I have when resizing? If this is more of a 300 blk question than a annealing question, Im sorry. Thank you Dryflash for the knowledge I gain with each of your posts. |
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| How is your sizing die adjusted? I adjusted mine to put the shoulder where it should be per SAAMI specs, and every case came out right. It sounds like your die is about 1/8 turn too high... |
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With 300 blk brass it measures 1.078 after sizing (1.082 before)
the test measures 1.085. (cut down TAA 08 nata) This is why Im wondering if I didn't anneal it enough or..?. Im thinking its springing back. Its measuring longer than fired brass. Neck thickness is .013" I noticed when I got the Tempilaq its a weird texture. Not like paint. it dries quickly, with the texture almost like dry toothpaste. Is this normal? |
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Originally Posted By mybronco2: With 300 blk brass it measures 1.078 after sizing (1.082 before) the test measures 1.085. (cut down TAA 08 nata) This is why Im wondering if I didn't anneal it enough or..?. Im thinking its springing back. Its measuring longer than fired brass. Neck thickness is .013" I noticed when I got the Tempilaq its a weird texture. Not like paint. it dries quickly, with the texture almost like dry toothpaste. Is this normal? Yes. Keep top on bottle when not using as it drys fast, Be sure to shake well before using. Do your already fired cases size and chamber? Wondering if sizing die is not down enough. Please start a thread and we can continue this, as this is an annealing thread. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: SNIP I like to anneal before the shoulder is set when forming cases. SNIP I want to know why you want to anneal after sizing? Wouldn't annealing before sizing allow the brass to form better in the die, and take less force/wear on the die and brass? You would loose some annealing by reworking it, but for wear and tear and life of the brass I would think that would be a better option. Skool me please... |
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| First chop the .223 case at about the base of the shoulder. Debur as needed. Next anneal the chopped cases. Now lube and size the annealed cases in your 300 Blackout sizing die, INCLUDING THE EXPANDER BALL. Finally, trim to length, debur/chamfer and you're done. Annealing makes it much smoother and easier to form the Blackout cases, and I think it also results in more consistent neck thickness, though I don't have tools sensitive enough to measure this. |
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Originally Posted By PARover:  Duh. RIF.Originally Posted By PARover: Originally Posted By dryflash3: I think you are mixed up. Anneal before forming the shoulder. Duh. RIF. |
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The key to dryflash3's method is that the cases are evenly heated all the way around. That's hard to do if the cases are standing up in a pan of water.
Short cases call for short sockets. I bought a deep-well 10mm socket for this purpose, and I haven't yet seen a need for the shorter socket. I thought about annealing 7.62 Tokarev cases converted from 9mm, but with the several other steps required for this conversion, Starline's prices made me decide to just buy new brass instead. |
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Thanks for resurrecting this thread. I was wondering where it was because I am in need of the technique. I ordered the Tempilaq and a collet bullet puller just last night. Approximately 300 rounds need to be disassembled and the cases annealed. Oh well, it's a hobby, right? |
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The problem I had with "just fixing the pics" is that this thread is several years old. (as in before this site had the latest update)
That is why all the extra junk is showing up. The update must add all the formatting junk that you see now. It doesn't edit out, I tried. edit 5/7/18. Was able to edit first post and get rid of all the formatting crap. |
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| Does the annealed brass need to be sized/formed right away or can I store it to form later? In other words will the softened brass harden over time even if it hasn't been work hardened. |
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Originally Posted By Vinny302:
I think you guys are misunderstanding my question. Say you have been annealing but you have over annealed some cases. Could you just reheat them red hot then quench them quickly. Would that quick quench return the hardness to the brass? This is just a question I have been thinking about, I am using Templaq and have been annealing properly. V |
I can't imagine why, everyone knows Troy products are kid tested, Mom approved. -Undefined
Even though it may seem that the OP is mentally disabled, calling him a "retard" is a personal attack. -DKProf
Even though it may seem that the OP is mentally disabled, calling him a "retard" is a personal attack. -DKProf
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Originally Posted By brakeman123:
Does the annealed brass need to be sized/formed right away or can I store it to form later? In other words will the softened brass harden over time even if it hasn't been work hardened. |
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I don't anneal many cases. 3rd and 4th fired cases go into my reserve stash. I reload them for "the revolution" and they go into storage. If they get shot they will simply be tossed. But, I have found that with .223 brass; if I use a hot torch with a full propane tank, I can get the neck and shoulder to change colors before the brass gets too hot for me to hold with a bare fingers. By the time the heat gets down to the base where I'm holding the brass, the necks and shoulders have changed colors to resemble new military brass. They get dropped into a metal coffee can until they cool without water. kwg |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3:
https://i.imgur.com/j2FvnPt.jpg Edit to fix pics and thread. 5/7/2018. LOW BUDGET ANNEALING: My equipment, torch: pan to drop hot cases in, battery powered screwdriver to rotate cases with hex to 1/4 or 3/8 drive adapters, deep sockets, 3/8 for 223/300 blk 1/2 for 308/30-30, and 750 degree Temiplaq. The Temiplaq is a must have. $24 [/url]https://www.midwayusa.com/product/988733/tempilaq-temperature-indicator-750-degree-2-oz Better price here; [/url]http://www.mcmaster.com/#temperature-indicating-liquid/=vlxyes Notice that no water is needed to cool off cases you never overheat the cases when you use Tempilaq. For annealing to work properly, cases should cool to room temperature by themselves. Takes about 5 minutes. https://i.imgur.com/XePc0uw.jpg Place case into socket and rotate case with screwdriver (you could use a drill, use a slow speed). Notice the blue drop of Tempilaq on the inside of the case mouth. Case in socket has been annealed and notice that the Tempilaq disappears/melts. Place flame of torch on the neck of the rotating case. You can see the spot of Tempilaq as the case rotates. When the Tempilaq melts (disappears) drop case in the pan. Takes 4 to 5 seconds for this to happen. https://i.imgur.com/7SSoVov.jpg Here are my results. Some 300 blk brass ready to run through the 300 blk sizing die to form the shoulder. If you try this without the Tempilaq, you will over heat the brass and get poor results. I sure did. I like to anneal before the shoulder is set when forming cases. 3/8 deep socket for 223, 300 blk 7/16 deep socket for 6.5 Grendel, 7.62x39 1/2 deep socket for 308, 30-30, 30-06, ect https://i.imgur.com/mEiYvtI.jpg 300 blk cases after forming shoulder ready to trim to length. I trim to 1.360, then debur and chamfer. Notice crumpled case, that's what happens when you don't put a small bit of Imperial inside the case neck. Lube placed on Q tip, then inside case mouth. This thread is meant for the low budget folks, please keep this thread free from the commercial annealers and the home built annealers. Here is the DIY thread, https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/DIY_Annealing_Machine/42-434088/? If you want to post about these machines, start your own thread or post in the above thread. Thank you. Ask your basic low budget annealing questions in this thread. No need to discuss that was the method used before Tempilaq and rotating cases. If you wish to discuss it please start your own thread. It's a waste of time anyway. |
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Originally Posted By cmcque: Can you use 700F Temilaq? That was the only stuff Brownells had and I had a gift card for there. |
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Originally Posted By AKSnowRider:
Yes, it will work... brass anneals faster the higher the temp it reaches, up to just shy of 800* if I remember right..so 700 will work....I try to get the brass neck/shoulder up to temp as fast as possible, because it transfers less heat to the case head that way..So I use a hotter 18K Mapp gas torch instead of a propane torch..which makes it much simpler to get results...just have to be careful you don't go to high on the brass temp because it burns the 
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Originally Posted By AKSnowRider:
Dang it...  I have to claim brain damage... Wait, was that you??  I've thought about a hotter flame source (like MAPP gas), but think it would most likely heat up the machine components fast in the annealer I made and expect it would require some heat shielding. For me, making an annealer was a low budget approach to address the number of cases I do at one time (250 - 1000 pieces). It was half the price of buying a machine off the shelf and it has more features. |
Low budget Annealing (Page 2 of 3)
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