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Posted: 10/24/2013 10:32:40 PM EDT
| Hey everyone, I am fairly new to reloading and I just purchased a vintage, but in like new condition Lyman 55 powder measure. I have used the graduated marks and adjustment screws as directed in the instruction manual, but the problem I have is that somehow after setting these screws and the drum to the proper load, I can dump 4 or 5 charges all weighing the same amount and then the next charge comes out about 1.5 times more than my set charge, or just the opposite happens, I get less than the set charge. Anybody else have this problem or is it just my ignorance causing this problem. Any help would be appreciated. |
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Are you saying a 50 % difference in charges, or a 1.5 grain difference? If truly a 50%,difference, something is really wrong, a big mistake in setup, or a piece is missing, or broken, or a part very loose. A 1.5 grain variance is not good, how far off depends upon chg weight, but not as bad.
Pertinent questions - Rifle or pistol? Target charge weight? Type of powder? Some variation between charges is normal, which is why they sell powder tricklers. You set the measure to throw charges a few tenths low, and then trickle in the remainder more precisely. This method is most applicable with stick powders for rifle loads that dont meter well. Lyman 55 Setup Video that might help you at link above. Bear with him, its really pretty good. Complicated charge adjustment system but should be accurate. Assume you have the 2 spouts, one for large caliber and one w/ smaller hole for small caliber. Trying to use the small spout for large rifle charges and the large for small caliber could make a difference in charge consistency. |
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I honestly stopped using my 55 after several years of frustration. I even got a new one and tried it with no better results (I use an RCBS uniflow now and like it way better.)
But, back to your problems. I found that trying to use all the adjustments (the multiple sliding sections of the rotor) didn't work as well as taking the time to set all of them at the same spot. Meaning instead of having a coarse adjustment (the big part of the rotor) to get you close) and then the smaller sections of the rotor (to get to the final charge weight needed) I just tried to keep all the sections lined up and have only one big cavity inside. The little knocker on the front was supposed to help but still didn't fix the problem of inconsistent charge weights. I was told years later that some company makes a baffle that sits down in the bottom of the hopper that will help make the charge weights more consistent but I never bought one, I just changed to the RCBS (which isn't perfect, but is way more consistent than the Lyman 55). Good luck with your efforts to get more consistency. |
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I've been using a Lyman 55 since the late '70's with good results. The above poster is right. Unless weighing very light charges, try to use the biggest slide and try to minimize the use of the smaller adjusters. In fact, I never use the finest adjustment bar on mine.
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| I do have the baffle that sits down in the powder tube. If I follow what you are saying, you are saying to set all 3 sections to zero, then use the bottom (largest) part of the adjuster to set the amount (which by the way was a light load, only 4.2 grains) for 9mm. If I only use the large part of the cylinder I assume I would have to use a powder trickler to finish off the load. Please correct me if this is not what you are saying. |
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When throwing small pistol charges like your 4.2 gr load, resist using only the top most slide ( the fine adjustment ) to make the correct volume. If you open that fine adjustment 3/4 or so open, yeah, you can make it throw close to 4.2 grs. But you will not get consistency, as you have found out. Use the coarse adjustment to make the bulk of the charge. Use the fine adjustment to make it exact if needed, but I try to only open the fine adjustment a 1/2 turn. Try to get as close as possible using the coarse. When throwing charges, consistency of manipulating the throw lever is key. If you use the knocker, use it everytime. I don't use it much, but can throw good charges by being consistent in my motions. |
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I share your frustration but my experience is getting better. I'm a perfectionist so yeah the variances nag at me like nothing else. Here's how I've gotten better and it's a little contrary to my friends above:
PB Blaster graphite: spray the internals, the drum the slides, the hopper, the baffle. I do not use the knocker thingy. I use the handle, 1 up, 1 down. Always from the bottom, swiftly up to the stop and then right back down again to the stop. I do much more rifle, large rifle like 30.06 where I've charged as much as 54grains. I use the large drum, in fact with any charge, I use the large drum until I get to within a 2 or 3 grains of my target. This has all three slides open equally. Then I use the smallest slide to creep up to my target. I still only feel confident though enough to measure every 5th charge. I'm bound and determined to use my 55 but charging cases has literally been the bane of my reloading life so far. |
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Don't use the knocker, it unsettles the powder every time, you can actually see the powder jump when using it. Whatever you do, don't have the smaller slides
overhang the big one, it'll drive you nuts and will never throw the same charge. First, before adjusting, SETTLE the powder before adjusting, when close, use the smaller slide. Be consistant on how your lift and lower the charge handle, but not real slow. I use it to throw 3.5 gr BEeye for 38 sp and it works very well. I've also found that if you size, seat primer, and charge between throwing charges, it will not be accurate.. |
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Quoted:
I do have the baffle that sits down in the powder tube. If I follow what you are saying, you are saying to set all 3 sections to zero, then use the bottom (largest) part of the adjuster to set the amount (which by the way was a light load, only 4.2 grains) for 9mm. If I only use the large part of the cylinder I assume I would have to use a powder trickler to finish off the load. Please correct me if this is not what you are saying. I never use my Lyman for light pistol charges, but I would try closing the main slide completely and using the middle one keeping the smallest lined up with the center slide. Make sense? |
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I will expand a bit on "settling the powder". This applies to ALL powder measures. When you first dump powder into measure, fill to about 1/2 inch from the top. 1) With your finger, tap the side of the powder hopper. You can see the powder settle lower in the measure. Powder is settling. That's the first step. 2)Then throw 3 or 4 charges in your scale pan and return them to the hopper. That's the second step. Throw and measure a charge. Make any adjustment needed to powder measure. Repeat step 2. Throw another charge and measure. Repeat as needed. The key here is to have the powder settled before measuring a charge. If powder is not settled, throws will vary wildly. Ball powder will measure best, why it's so popular. Flake measures almost as good. Short cut extruded powder measures well (IMR-8208 XBR, AR Comp), the longer cut extruded, not so much (Varget, IMR-4064). Just a couple of examples. With the longer cut extruded powders it's normal to throw them light and trickle up to your wanted charge. The last technique for consistant throws as mentioned previous, is to use the same force/speed for every throw. Be consistant, very important. A baffle is your friend. Leave the knocker alone. Good luck |
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