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Posted: 2/6/2011 7:38:23 PM EDT
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I just bought a M16A1 653 and waiting on the paperwork to clear.
It's configured as a carbine with a 14.5" pencil barrel. I have several uppers to go on it. It's all original and I was wanting to pull the stock and upper off it and make it into a M4 type carbine. While I wait I was wanting to order a stock (CRT) and a trigger for it. What's the best trigger out for FA? I assume the gun has a mil-spec buffer tube, so all I need to order is a mil-spec magpul stock? Is there anything else I need to do to update this old gun? (it has KNS pins already installed) Thanks |
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Geissele ssf is the best full auto trigger IMHO http://geissele.com/superselect-firessftrigger.aspx  |
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OK. So the semi-auto trigger pull can be improved. Get that.
But FA, after first pull? Can someone 'splain this to me: "In fully-automatic mode, the SSF performs like a single-stage trigger with a smooth, continuous trigger pull and abrupt hammer release." Huh? Sam |
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Quoted:
OK. So the semi-auto trigger pull can be improved. Get that. But FA, after first pull? Can someone 'splain this to me: "In fully-automatic mode, the SSF performs like a single-stage trigger with a smooth, continuous trigger pull and abrupt hammer release." Huh? Sam All full-auto aftermarket triggers function the same as Gene Stoner's milspec design: They are two-stage in semi and single-stage in full-auto. A good FA trigger –– I prefer and use JPs –– will, when in FULL, (a) have a relatively short travel, (b) will be smooth during the pull, (c) will have an adjustable weight-of-pull, and (d) will break cleanly and consistently. These four abilities greatly increase the shooter's ability to use trigger control to deliver the exact number of rounds, no more, no less. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
OK. So the semi-auto trigger pull can be improved. Get that. But FA, after first pull? Can someone 'splain this to me: "In fully-automatic mode, the SSF performs like a single-stage trigger with a smooth, continuous trigger pull and abrupt hammer release." Huh? Sam All full-auto aftermarket triggers function the same as Gene Stoner's milspec design: They are two-stage in semi and single-stage in full-auto. A good FA trigger –– I prefer and use JPs –– will, when in FULL, (a) have a relatively short travel, (b) will be smooth during the pull, (c) will have an adjustable weight-of-pull, and (d) will break cleanly and consistently. These four abilities greatly increase the shooter's ability to use trigger control to deliver the exact number of rounds, no more, no less. Just found the jp trigger and it looks very nice. |
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Quoted:
tony_k got a link on that fa trigger for the m16 ? Thanks Here ya go: http://www.jprifles.com/1.4.8.2_fc.php The trigger itself is FA or semi compatible; the JP disconnector is for semi, so you can toss that out. You are left with an FA trigger with set-screw adjustments for engagement and overtravel, plus a set of springs. Note that JP offers springs in four weights: 3-3.5 pounds, 3.5-4 pounds, 4-4.5 pounds and 4.5-pound service match weight. John Paul (who is a sharp guy, as well as very helpful) recommends the 3.5-4-pound range for tactical use; for recreational or competitive shooters, 3-3.5 is fine. FWIW, I shoot a lot of milsurp ammo with hard primers, so I use either a 3.5-4 or a 4-4.5-pound hammer spring with a 3-3.5-pound trigger spring. The heavier hammer spring also helps with slowing down cycling with a 9mm upper. You do not want to use a light hammer spring with 9mm, 7.62x39, etc. uppers –– it will allow your hammer to hit the disconnector way too hard. Using a digital trigger-pull, I've found the hammer spring weight does not affect trigger pull effort. I adjust mine so the total trigger movement, from untouched to fully depressed, is 3/32". The break is consistent and is as clean as the proverbial glass rod breaking. In practice, if feels less like a trigger and more like an "on/off" switch. Much, much easier to pull triples, doubles and singles at will. And also FWIW, Brownells carries these, so you can get a dealer discount if you've got an FFL.
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Note that only the JP in my link –– the original JP trigger –– is FA compatible. JP's other, newer, drop-in designs are great triggers but are semi only. And the hammers, selectors, etc., are only available in semi. 
Also FWIW, I use the JPs with brand new, milspec Colt full-auto disconnectors, hammers and selectors. I have never had to stone or otherwise "fit" any parts when using new, milspec Colt counterparts –– they have always been "drop-in" and rock 'n' roll. However, some non-Colt, or used Colt, FA parts may require fitting, stoning/filing the disconnector engagement, etc. |
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Quoted:
Note that only the JP in my link –– the original JP trigger –– is FA compatible. JP's other, newer, drop-in designs are great triggers but are semi only. And the hammers, selectors, etc., are only available in semi.
Also FWIW, I use the JPs with brand new, milspec Colt full-auto disconnectors, hammers and selectors. I have never had to stone or otherwise "fit" any parts when using new, milspec Colt counterparts –– they have always been "drop-in" and rock 'n' roll. However, some non-Colt, or used Colt, FA parts may require fitting, stoning/filing the disconnector engagement, etc. Thanks good info for sure. |
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Thanks for all the great info.
Is the trigger really the only thing that one would want to change out? Looks like there is a few really good FA triggers out there. I'm wanting to put a CRT stock on it as well. What's the best buffer to use for a 14.5" barrel. I will also be running a 12" and a 8" 556 barrel on it as well. Is a H2 buffer the best one to use? |
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