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Posted: 1/18/2010 3:50:22 PM EDT
| I know your all getting tired of my endless threads but I have read my ass off in my manual and in the tagged threads. My problem is that I am trying to resize LC .223 brass and every other round is getting stuck in the resizing die on my dillon 550b. I have no idea what is going on. I set it in the toolhead according to the instructions (run down until it touches shellplate then back off 1/2 turn. Still I feel intense resistance when I lower the handle driving the casing into the die. The second I try to raise the handle to pull the casing out it gets stuck and shears the head of the casing off. The carbide expansion tool is passing through the neck very easy. It is the die itself that is causing the sticks. I am using "hornady one shot" lube. I have tried using just a little and I have tried using alot. It makes no difference. Still get a ton of stuck cases. Very depressing night it has been :( |
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I know your all getting tired of my endless threads but I have read my ass off in my manual and in the tagged threads. My problem is that I am trying to resize LC .223 brass and every other round is getting stuck in the resizing die on my dillon 550b. I have no idea what is going on. I set it in the toolhead according to the instructions (run down until it touches shellplate then back off 1/2 turn. Still I feel intense resistance when I lower the handle driving the casing into the die. The second I try to raise the handle to pull the casing out it gets stuck and shears the head of the casing off. The carbide expansion tool is passing through the neck very easy. It is the die itself that is causing the sticks. I am using "hornady one shot" lube. I have tried using just a little and I have tried using alot. It makes no difference. Still get a ton of stuck cases. Very depressing night it has been :( Thats yer problem.....not alot of people have too good of luck with one shot.....if you must have a spray lube, I have been using Lee lube mixed at a ratio of 1:4 with 91% and higher Isopropel alcohol.....Throw cases in a large bag, spray a couple of times, shake bag, spray a few more, shake again, and dump out in a large box to let airdry...after about 10 minutes, they are ready to size....I have never had a stuck case with that method. |
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Well, ditch the HOS as it is POS. Get some Imperial Die Wax. Make sure you get some case lube inside the case necks. HOS is the main culprit to MOST posts related to stuck cases. +1! Do a Google on One shot and you will find it is the cause of more stuck cases than it's worth. |
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Are you leaving it ry completly, if not that may be our problem.
I use Imperial Sizing Wax,way more satisfied with that, way-way less problems, only 2 in 5000+ rounds and those were more than likely my fault. Ran out of that one time and use another product out of desperation, totally shocked how well that worked, (Neutrogena Body Emulsion Intensive Therapeutic Lotion). 400 rounds with out a hitch (put it on quite heavy though) worked for me. Picked up Imperial as soon as I could though. sdshooter................. |
| One Shot may be the cause of your problem. Are you lubing the inside of the case mouths? Imperial sizing wax or dillon spray lube would be a much better choice of lube. Its normal to feel stiff resistance on the handle as you lower it to resize the case. I would try a different case lube first. Who's dies are you using out of curiosity? |
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Hornady One Shot should not be used by beginners .... I repeat should NOT be used by beginners.
That stuff is responsible for 99% of the stuck cases .... it works good if you shake the hell out of it and keep it in a warm environment. Once it drops below 50 degrees the lube inside the can solidifies and is hard as hell to break up. Use Dillon spray lube in a pump bottle ... it's 100% better and you can actually see in the bottle if the lube is settled to the bottom or if it is shaken up good enough. I used One Shot when I started reloading and nearly quite because of it!!! Once I used Unique Sizing Wax it shocked me how easy the cases resized. The worst part of One Shot is you cannot tell when you have run out of lube either ... there may be pressure in the can, and the carrier agent spraying out ... but no lube. After you stick one case; you have to remove your die and bore cleaner or some other tough solvent on it. You need to scrub the inside of the die with a nylon brush or something to get the brass residue that stuck the case to begin with. What happens is that you get the stuck case out, but leave brass behind .... the next brass sticks to the old stuff super easy and leaves you with another stuck case. Doesn't matter how well it's lubed at that point - until you get the old stuff out. |
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One Shot may be the cause of your problem. Are you lubing the inside of the case mouths? Imperial sizing wax or dillon spray lube would be a much better choice of lube. Its normal to feel stiff resistance on the handle as you lower it to resize the case. I would try a different case lube first. Who's dies are you using out of curiosity? Just for everyones info this is the spray bottle lube not the aerosol type. I tried letting it dry first and while that did help a bit it still was kinda sticky. Ill be ordering some new lube soon since this stuff is all that is stocked locally. Also I am using dillon dies. I bought them same time as the press. |
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I know your all getting tired of my endless threads but I have read my ass off in my manual and in the tagged threads. My problem is that I am trying to resize LC .223 brass and every other round is getting stuck in the resizing die on my dillon 550b. I have no idea what is going on. I set it in the toolhead according to the instructions (run down until it touches shellplate then back off 1/2 turn. Still I feel intense resistance when I lower the handle driving the casing into the die. The second I try to raise the handle to pull the casing out it gets stuck and shears the head of the casing off. The carbide expansion tool is passing through the neck very easy. It is the die itself that is causing the sticks. I am using "hornady one shot" lube. I have tried using just a little and I have tried using alot. It makes no difference. Still get a ton of stuck cases. Very depressing night it has been :( My red added. I don't use that method................... Try reading these instructions...............note that you touch the shell holder and screwdown a little more. Not, Up.......you need the "cam over." Then............... For those who don't know about it.........IMHO…………"the secret" to re-loading a bottle neck cartridge for a gas gun is to gauge your re-sized brass. There are many different brands and ways to gauge your re-loads.
Examples…….. http://www.sinclairintl.com/prod_detail_list/Case-Gauges-Headspace-Tools This is how I do mine. 6) I use a single station press (RCBS Rock Chucker). You could use a progressive Dillon IF you wanted to. It's a personal choice. But, with whatever press you choose, consider shell plate/shell holder and/or press "flex.” I use a regular FL size/de-capper die, NOT the small base dies. To begin, lube your cases. Then, FL size and de-cap, 1 or 2 cases for a test. Gauge the re-sized case(s), to confirm that the "correct re-size" has been achieved. I use a Forster Products case gauge (the Wilson or Dillon case gauges are also popular choices). Holding the gauge vertically, insert a case into the case gauge (do NOT place it on the table top). The headstamped end of the case, needs to be at or between the high and low cuts on the gauge, to pass. This checks for the “correct re-size.“ While the other end, is used to check if the case will need to be trimmed (a job for later on). IF, it’s not the “correct re-size,” your die setting will need adjustment. Lower the ram and simply screw the die in or out a little. Don’t forget about the lock nut. Then, re-size another couple of test cases and check your work again. Repeat the test and adjustments, as needed. When you're satisfied that your test cases are properly re-sized, do the entire lot (remember to test some cases throughout the run). Aloha, Mark PS...........cases sticking in your die is usually a problem with the lube. Use enough of a "good quality lube" and I suspect that your sticking problem will be solved. BTW......that is assuming that you have the correct dies and brass. Yes, that mistake has happened before. |
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I know your all getting tired of my endless threads but I have read my ass off in my manual and in the tagged threads. My problem is that I am trying to resize LC .223 brass and every other round is getting stuck in the resizing die on my Dillon 550b. I have no idea what is going on. I set it in the toolhead according to the instructions (run down until it touches shellplate then back off 1/2 turn. Still I feel intense resistance when I lower the handle driving the casing into the die. The second I try to raise the handle to pull the casing out it gets stuck and shears the head of the casing off. The carbide expansion tool is passing through the neck very easy. It is the die itself that is causing the sticks. I am using "Hornady one shot" lube. I have tried using just a little and I have tried using a lot. It makes no difference. Still get a ton of stuck cases. Very depressing night it has been :( Notice how I double spaced your post? Makes it much easier to read, and you will get more replys. 
If you change lubes, your sizing problems will disappear. 
I use spray lubes, either Dillon or Midway. Place clean cases in a box, spray 2 pumps, shake box, spray 2 more pumps. Try to get some in the case necks to lubricate the expanding ball. Cases will be a little wet, and will size easy. After cases are sized, I tumble in plain corn cob to remove the lube. You can also wipe the lube off with a clean rag. Then finish your case prep, and back to the 550 until your bench looks like this. 
And don't worry, we don't mind helping. 
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FWIW try this
Take your sizing die apart and polish the "Bell" on the decap pin use a bit of mothers on a rag or use a power adjustable dremel tool with buffing rag. Also do the inside of the die ALWAYS be vigilant when using a dremel tool you can possibly get carried away I I then take a little dab of Imperial Due Wax rub it in my palms, and roll half a dozen cases at a time one way not back and forth. Then as I remove the cases one at a time from my hand I give the necks a twist in my palm. I do this to a couple hundred (.223) at a time re-dabbing as needed .This works very well and is easy to master the feel. I then start the sizing and depriming activity ST~ PS Remember to never bulk load your ammo until your sure of your load, and your case gage confirms your die set up... Not much sucks more than pulling a couple hundred rounds apart 
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I use Dillon DLC spray case lube and just bought two(buy one get one free  ) 4 oz bottles of liquid Lanolin to make my own spray lube(a little less Lanolin, Dillon is kinda sticky for me but safe for most).
RCBS Case Slick is about the same thing and works just as good if you can find that easier than the Dillon. Hornady One Shot and Lyman Quick Spray case lube are both a big NO-GO and shouldn't be used unless you like pulling stuck cases. |
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I've had good luck with Hornady one shot, but had better luck with dillon case lube.
do you have any other sizing dies? If you do, swap out the dillon with another one. You may have a bad die with a rough spot or something that's grabbing the cases. I used to get stuck cases every once in a while but now spray the dillon lube on the cases and roll them around in a cardboard box and haven't had a stuck one yet. |
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I use the Dillon stuff- spray about 5 shots into a gallon ziplock. dump in 1 quart of brass, shake it, roll it around for a bout 1 minute. Open the bag and let the alcohol evaporate for about 10 minutes. I can quickly lube enough brass to feed a 650 all evening.
I fold and store the ziplocks in another gallon ziplock, so no greasy pans or boxes to store. Simple, huh? |
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Once a case sticks in a die, the die now has bits of brass "welded" to the die. And these bits of brass mean no amount of lube will prevent a stuck case. So if you ever stick a case, once the offending case is removed, you must completely clean the die, using the most aggressive bore cleaning solvent sold. What is an effective solvent? One that immediately turns green when used on a dirty case...be careful only testing junk cases...they will destroy rifle brass making them dangerous to use. Resizing lube is totally different than grease or motor oil, the pressures are extreme, in the range of 15,000 PSI up. Things that feel slippery to your fingers could be completely ineffective. Hornady One Shot may work in some applications but if it fails for you, get something better. For me, I have never had a stuck case with Lee. And despite it not feeling greasy, it works because it can take the pressure. |
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Hornady One Shot should not be used by beginners .... I repeat should NOT be used by beginners. But if you must use one shot, stop and read the directions. Let the OS dry completely before you start. If you do this then the OS will work fine. Ist all I use for mass 223 reloading and still haven't managed a stuck case in many years. |
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The whole key to using HOS is to let it dry.
It will feel sticky and may seen that it won't work, but that is how it is supposed to feel once it's dry. Don't spray more than 50 cases at a time. Stand them up, spray all around at a 45* angle to ensure some lube gets in the case mouths and let them dry for about 10-12 minutes. While they're drying, remove your sizer die and clean it thoroughly with a brass solvent acetone, then another thorough cleaning with lacquer thinner or similar solvent and let it dry. Once the die is dry, pass a sopping wet patch of HOS through the die, once again, let it dry. Once you're out of One shot, don't buy anymore; use one of the other products mentioned in previous posts or make your own. My personal favorite is 1 TSP of anyhydrous lanolin melted into 8 oz. of 99.99% isopropyl alcohol and poured into a pump spray bottle. Never had a stuck case with that formula |
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Hornady One Shot should not be used by beginners .... I repeat should NOT be used by beginners. But if you must use one shot, stop and read the directions. Let the OS dry completely before you start. If you do this then the OS will work fine. Ist all I use for mass 223 reloading and still haven't managed a stuck case in many years. same here one shot is all I use |
| I used some valvoline synthetic oil lubing every 10th case and it works flawlessly. I have ordered some dillon lube but I wanted to go ahead and process this 1000 rds of brass so thats what I went with. The one shot will be hitting the trash next time Im out at my press. I have started retumbling the brass now that it is sized and trimmed to get the oil off the case. How long does it need to tumble to do this efficiently? Im using crushed walnut hulls from pet supply in my FA tumbler. |
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Hornady One Shot should not be used by beginners .... I repeat should NOT be used by beginners. But if you must use one shot, stop and read the directions. Let the OS dry completely before you start. If you do this then the OS will work fine. Ist all I use for mass 223 reloading and still haven't managed a stuck case in many years. same here one shot is all I use Same here....I have not stuck a case since I figured out how to use One shot correctly. Correctly is not following the instructions and I agree not a good lube for a beginner...... Aero E ....if I/We ( successful One Shot users) write a One Shot "how to" will you put in the stickies? |
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Hornady One Shot should not be used by beginners .... I repeat should NOT be used by beginners. But if you must use one shot, stop and read the directions. Let the OS dry completely before you start. If you do this then the OS will work fine. Ist all I use for mass 223 reloading and still haven't managed a stuck case in many years. same here one shot is all I use Same here....I have not stuck a case since I figured out how to use One shot correctly. Correctly is not following the instructions and I agree not a good lube for a beginner...... Aero E ....if I/We ( successful One Shot users) write a One Shot "how to" will you put in the stickies? Same here, it's all i've ever used and never once had a stuck case. I use it on .223, .308, .303, 8mm, .270, 50Beowulf, and have had excellent results. I hold the block of cases in left hand, hold OS in right hand, 45° above and away about 6-8 inches. I spray cases, spin block 180° and spray one last time. You dont ned much, but must make sure you get some in the case mouths, that is why you spray at that angle. Sometimes I give a little spurt into the die, but most times I dont. Pretty simple, and pretty effective. |
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I used one can of One Shot. My first time was with LC MG 7.62mm brass. What a bitch!
If you let it dry as the OS proponents state, it will work. I used up the rest of my OS on 5.56mm brass. I used a lot more product than the instructions said to use and let it dry thoroughly. dillon lube is my new favorite. Why you may ask? Not because it's convenient to spray and works pretty effortlessly. It's because I get much more consistent results on the distance the shoulder gets pushed back. You see I measure my brass headspace with a Stoney Point/Hornady kit to insure my brass is right for the chamber length of the particular rifle. I've used One Shot, RCBS case pad lube, RCBS pump lube, Redding/Imperial Die wax, and the dillon spray. The dillon gives me the most consitently set shoulders out of any of them. I'm betting the variance on the thick lubes is due to build up in the dies and less consistent coating of the brass. The one shot I feel was due to the neck getting lubed inside or not. My current favorite method is to fill my plastic sinclair loading blocks and set the block at a 45 degree angle then hold the spray bottle at a 45 deg from horizontal and then spray them with a few shots. Turn the block 180 degrees and spray again. I'm sure I'd save on spray lube if I went back to the zip lock back and massaged the bag after spraying but I like the consistency of the above method. happy reloading. |
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I use HOS also. Put my brass in a ziplock spray a bunch of HOS in the bag and then seal and shake works great.
Check this out! I also reload LC brass and every now and then run across a piece that is intensely stubborn to re-size. If you look at the bottom of the brass near where the head may seperate it may be bulging. I don't know whether these few pieces were shot from a saw or from a rifle with bad head spacing. Either way I don't think it is worth risking head separation so I just crush those and move on. You may have a batch of brass that is bulging. |
| I also found that if I use a reloading block to spray my cases with HOS the bottoms don't get any HOS on them and it causes fouling in the mouth of my dies. To solve this I followed what everyone else does and on faith put my brass in a bag as outlined in my above post. |
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