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Posted: 5/1/2014 10:48:19 AM EDT
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I came across a really nice complete 1908 DWM Brazilian Mauser action at a garage sale of all places. It still has the crest and the numbers on the bolt and receiver seem to match, but it doesn't have the entire magazine assembly. I bought it for $20 cause I thought it was a steal. Since then I have thought I might make a custom mauser rifle. But I have a few questions. What are the Pros and Cons of using a 98 Large ring Mauser action for custom builds?? What are some caliber options I have for this action? I know it was originally 7mm mauser. Thanks
Edit: more to the point I am curious if this action could handle .243AI cause that's what I want to make. |
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Cons: relatively long lock time compared to modern actions, hate from the C&R fanbois for disfiguring an ABSOLUTELY HISTORIC rifle. (meaning once you change it they can't buy it through the mail)
Pros: You got $20 in it, one of the strongest historic actions, great gas handling, huge aftermarket, bolt face already set for everything from .243" to .30"-06 to .458" SOCOM. Set it up for 25 rnd PMags, & a folding AR stock, forward rails, go to town. 
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I wouldn't do anything but put it back to military condition.
If the barrel is good, then leave it in 7mm mauser. What magazine parts are missing? This stock set will fit perfectly, and be cheaper than putting the brazilian parts together, and will look original ______________>>>>>>>>>>>> https://www.gunpartscorp.com/ad/890470.htm You can also get all the brazilian parts from the same sight It'll cost more though. I'd go with the set in the link. |
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I bought this model 98 large ring as an action only almost thirty years ago. I decided I wanted a rifle light enough hump through mountains, and large enough of a caliber to dispatch anything I might need to. I mounted a Douglas lightweight barrel, on a Brown & Carlson synthetic stock, (at the time that was 'cutting edge'  ), put in a timney trigger, low mount buehler safety, and a leupold one piece base. the "metal-life" finish came about because on a trip to Shuyak Island, the rifle rusted. The iron sights were put on because the original Redfield scope lost it's reticle. It's chambered in .300 win mag. It's magnaported because you can imagine the recoil from a rifle weighing 6 pounds 7 oz.  |
| Sounds good. Restoring to mil-spec seems kind of pointless this late in the game. There won't be anything original about it; it will just be parts gun of no great value. I doubt you'll save any money in the long run, sporterizing can run into serious coin pretty quick, especially if it requires gunsmithing. |
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Sorry if my original post was miss leading. All I have is the receiver and bolt and all tiny parts associated with them. I don't have the entire magazine/floorplate/trigger guard assembly. No barrel. No stock. In that case I would turn it into a utilitarian type rifle. (you're better off buying a "custom" mauser than building one as far as cost effectiveness) If I had it this is what I would do; Pick any sporter barrel that chambers a cartridge of .473 head size (all mauser cartridges(except 6.5X55mm) and of course anything from the .308 and .30-06 families of cartridges. Any gunsmith should be quite familiar with the 98 action and how to rebarrel and headspace it. Get a Czech stamped "winter triggergaurd" floorplate (all you need to complete the mag now is a follower and spring) Get a synthetic stock. get the rear bridge tapped for a peep sight of your choice. Have a front installed on the barrel accordingly. Bend the bolt handle down if it isn't already. Gun-Kote/Duracoat/spraypaint etc whatever color you like. Voila- open sighted, caliber of your choice, tough as nails large ring 98. |
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The spacer is important when you change the length of the case. Not knowing but guessing that originally the rifle was an 8mm, the difference between that case length and a .308 case is pretty big. Different geometry in the cases can also cause feeding issues. One option which will work for you is different DBM (detachable bottom metal). Over on the sniperhide forum, you can always find bottom metal for sale as peoples builds change, and the good thing is that a lot of the DBM you'll find is for the .308 family of case size. |
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The spacer is important when you change the length of the case. Not knowing but guessing that originally the rifle was an 8mm, the difference between that case length and a .308 case is pretty big. Different geometry in the cases can also cause feeding issues. One option which will work for you is different DBM (detachable bottom metal). Over on the sniperhide forum, you can always find bottom metal for sale as peoples builds change, and the good thing is that a lot of the DBM you'll find is for the .308 family of case size. To my knowledge this was originally 7mm mauser since it was made for Brazil. Do you know what companies make bottom metal for mauser actions? |
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There are some companies that do make specific DBM for large rings that will go right to .308 (.243), CDI is one, http://www.cdiprecisiongunworks.com a google search will help you with others. Brownells has bottom metal for a 98 at a very good price point. It might take a little tweaking to use for a .243 but it could be done. |
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Get it heat treated before you re-barrel!
There could be a good reason the price was $20. And get this Book before you do anything to that action. |
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Quoted: Get it heat treated before you re-barrel!
There could be a good reason the price was $20. And get this Book before you do anything to that action. Heat treat a 20th Century 98 action? $20 would be about what I'd expect to pay @ a garage sale for a bbl action missing most other parts. |
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Heat treat a 20th Century 98 action? $20 would be about what I'd expect to pay @ a garage sale for a bbl action missing most other parts. Quoted:
Quoted: Get it heat treated before you re-barrel!
There could be a good reason the price was $20. And get this Book before you do anything to that action. Heat treat a 20th Century 98 action? $20 would be about what I'd expect to pay @ a garage sale for a bbl action missing most other parts. Yes, heat treat a 20th Century 98 action. Do you have a good reason not to? |
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Getting the parts below, you can put together a custom 308 Mauser in a tactical stock for probably a total around $450.
Wilson barrel on sale. http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/barrel-parts/rifle-barrels/98-mauser-barrels-prod16633.aspx Then add a Boyd stock. Tactical now inlets for a Mauser. You can even upgrade to colored laminates. http://www.boydsgunstocks.com/product.htm?pid=104484&cat=1215 Then send the action out to install the barrel, bend the bolt, drill and tap, and blue the whole thing. The money does add up fast, and if you were to find a used sporter rifle, it would probably cost you less than to build it yourself, but you would be getting a custom rifle with the features you want. I'm working on a similar project, as I'm an expert when it comes to rationalizing how to spend $$ on rifles
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Wasn't it already heat treated when it left the factory? What do you gain by heat treating it a second time? Edumacate me. What is the history of this action? Was heat used to remove the barrel? Read the book I linked to for more info on the why and what if's The point is, better safe than sorry. |
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I'd go 6.5x55 Swede over the 243AI
If the action doesn't look like it been through a fire I wouldn't worry about heat treat. But if you don't know the inspection points for a 98 you should have a good gunsmith check it out before building on it. Can you post pictures? |
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What is the history of this action? Was heat used to remove the barrel? Read the book I linked to for more info on the why and what if's The point is, better safe than sorry. Quoted:
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Wasn't it already heat treated when it left the factory? What do you gain by heat treating it a second time? Edumacate me. What is the history of this action? Was heat used to remove the barrel? Read the book I linked to for more info on the why and what if's The point is, better safe than sorry. Why would heat be used to unscrew a Mauser bbl? I've unscrewed my Turk bbl by hand. |
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Why would heat be used to unscrew a Mauser bbl? I've unscrewed my Turk bbl by hand. Quoted:
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Wasn't it already heat treated when it left the factory? What do you gain by heat treating it a second time? Edumacate me. What is the history of this action? Was heat used to remove the barrel? Read the book I linked to for more info on the why and what if's The point is, better safe than sorry. Why would heat be used to unscrew a Mauser bbl? I've unscrewed my Turk bbl by hand. Because some barrels are on very tight. Heat can help loosen them. |
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Quoted: Cons: relatively long lock time compared to modern actions, hate from the C&R fanbois for disfiguring an ABSOLUTELY HISTORIC rifle. (meaning once you change it they can't buy it through the mail) Pros: You got $20 in it, one of the strongest historic actions, great gas handling, huge aftermarket, bolt face already set for everything from .243" to .30"-06 to .458" SOCOM. Set it up for 25 rnd PMags, & a folding AR stock, forward rails, go to town. Oh god, please tell me about how many calibers that action can chamber, I think I'm getting a chubby.   |
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Oh god, please tell me about how many calibers that action can chamber, I think I'm getting a chubby. Quoted:
Quoted:
Cons: relatively long lock time compared to modern actions, hate from the C&R fanbois for disfiguring an ABSOLUTELY HISTORIC rifle. (meaning once you change it they can't buy it through the mail) Pros: You got $20 in it, one of the strongest historic actions, great gas handling, huge aftermarket, bolt face already set for everything from .243" to .30"-06 to .458" SOCOM. Set it up for 25 rnd PMags, & a folding AR stock, forward rails, go to town. Oh god, please tell me about how many calibers that action can chamber, I think I'm getting a chubby. I can't even hazard a guess counting the wildcats that have been stuffed into a 98. |
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Oh god, please tell me about how many calibers that action can chamber, I think I'm getting a chubby.
Quoted:
Quoted:
Cons: relatively long lock time compared to modern actions, hate from the C&R fanbois for disfiguring an ABSOLUTELY HISTORIC rifle. (meaning once you change it they can't buy it through the mail) Pros: You got $20 in it, one of the strongest historic actions, great gas handling, huge aftermarket, bolt face already set for everything from .243" to .30"-06 to .458" SOCOM. Set it up for 25 rnd PMags, & a folding AR stock, forward rails, go to town. Oh god, please tell me about how many calibers that action can chamber, I think I'm getting a chubby.
I think the number of cartridges based on the .473" diameter rim of the original 8x57 number in the hundreds, including all variants of 7x57, 30-06 and 7.62x51. In fact there are very few rimless non-belted centerfire cases which deviate from that. 35 remington, 6.8 SPC, something else with roots in the 6mm Lee Navy, and of course the Commie calibers. |
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I think that's the one Mauser cartridge that won't actually fit in the 98. Need a Swedish Mauser for that. Great round, however. Quoted:
Quoted: 6.5X55 SWEDISH
awesome caliber I think that's the one Mauser cartridge that won't actually fit in the 98. Need a Swedish Mauser for that. Great round, however. It will fit, but the base diameter is a bit bigger, so the extractor would likely need massaging. |
| About 8 years ago I was given 4 Mauser actions. 3 Turkish small rings Circa 1942, and 1943 and one 1932 (based off the receiver serial number) large ring. I sold the small rings and kept the larger ring since it had already been converted to bent bolt and turned for optics (so I have not receiver markings to tell me more info). I was planning on building a hunting rifle off of it. I think I'm going to barrel it for 8mm again though… |
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