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Posted: 2/22/2019 12:45:50 PM EDT
| Mini lathe for form 1 projects or Am I just looking to get pissed off lol. I definitely am not willing to spend more than 500ish on aarger machine and dont even have the room for it. Just wondering |
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If this will be your first go at machining, and you only plan to do 1 or 2, it's not worth it.
If you want to get into machining, go for it. The lathe is an up front cost and, then, you'll have tooling, etc. I spent the better part of a year, about 4-5 hrs nightly, before I started making actual parts. Now I have a larger machine and a bench mill. |
| Yeah intended use would be specifically multiple form 1s, hoping double digits. But, I do enjoy learning new things and such. I dont see myself having a need for it other than form 1s. Currently, it would freak me out to buy a kit and just try to drill concentric and centered holes |
| So i'd imagine that if i wanted to get crazy and actually turn out some baffles or trim the od on a tube made of titanium, i may start having some issues? I recognize User and Number40 from a couple of threads here and I know you guys know your stuff when it comes to the Form 1s and appreciate your insight |
| I like to learn new things and especially build things, I bought a harbor freight mini lather and some plastic and nylon round stock and got a few books from the local library. I really enjoyed it, it did take a long time before I could actually make anything or let alone thread anything but over time I figured it out. As others have suggested if you just want to make one or two items its not worth but if you want to learn a new skill and like to building things, Its definitely worth it. |
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A drill press, alone, won't do what you seek, properly. A quality XY table is a must. As others have alluded, getting centered is key.
If you're truly planning to do multiple Form 1's, go buy that lathe. Let's say your average silencer costs $400 (we're including 22lr to TBAC) and you want to buy 10. This is going to run you $4k, not counting tax, transfer fee, etc (tax stamp is irrelevant). I can usually build a silencer for around $50. This is an average, but a realistic one. That would amount to $500 for your 10 silencers. There's a justified expenditure of $3500 on machinery and tooling. You weren't budgeting nearly this much so you're already in the black. You can recoupe some of this anytime you want. I bought a lathe because I thought it would be fun. Silencers were in mind, but not the main reason. I've made prototype parts for work, parts for kids nerf guns, custom bullet seating dies, wooden wheels that went to a homemade truck for my son. Hell, last year I made my wife wooden candlestick holders. All on the lathe that could only make silencer parts 
One time that sticks out the most was during a snowy winter. I was plowing the driveway and sheared a bolt off the tractor's steering column. This was late on a Sunday, the snow wasn't stopping, and I didn't have a close match on-hand. I went into the shop, fired up the lathe, and came out with a bolt. You start reloading to "save" on shooting. But we all know it's because you love the hobby. Nothing different here. |
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Quoted:
A drill press is going to make it more difficult to drill them perfectly concentric... Quoted:
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if i'm just ordering parts and simply drilling holes, a drill press will be just fine i'm assuming. correct? |
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Quoted:I ended up having holes almost large enough that a 9mm bullet passes through them a little snug after i got them all cleaned up While an alignment issue may have existed, your initial holes were drilled undersize. Even on a lathe or mill, I wouldn't use anything smaller than a U drill. Form 1'ers, with minimal equipment, shouldn't go below a 3/8" bit. |
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Good thread OP, I've just submitted my first two Form 1s in the past couple weeks and I've been wondering about the lathe idea myself.
Any of you guys have recommendations on how to start learning what I'd need out of a small lathe? I'm in same boat as OP, baffles/cups would be cool, and eventually the other stuff like threading. I'm in DFW so there's a big, active Craigslist market and I see some pretty large old lathes for a grand or two out there. With my limited knowledge, I think South Bend is supposed to be a good one with access to parts and a solid online knowledge base. I guess the first and most important question is what would you guys roughly budget as a starting-from-scratch setup that's good for working on gun stuff like this? |
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Quoted:
Good thread OP, I've just submitted my first two Form 1s in the past couple weeks and I've been wondering about the lathe idea myself. Any of you guys have recommendations on how to start learning what I'd need out of a small lathe? I'm in same boat as OP, baffles/cups would be cool, and eventually the other stuff like threading. I'm in DFW so there's a big, active Craigslist market and I see some pretty large old lathes for a grand or two out there. With my limited knowledge, I think South Bend is supposed to be a good one with access to parts and a solid online knowledge base. I guess the first and most important question is what would you guys roughly budget as a starting-from-scratch setup that's good for working on gun stuff like this? As for spindle diameter, my 10" only has about 3/4", you are not going to get much larger until the lathe gets very large (12"+). I have used a steady rest for internal threading of tubes. You will need a threading gauge that mounts on the carriage and engages the lead screw. Look for lathes with some tooling included, that can add up to more than the purchase price real fast. I paid $90.00 just for the threading gauge which was missing on mine. Do a search for SB lathes, you might be able to find a manual on how to operate one. When you do go to see one for sale try and bring two pointed pieces of 1/2" rod. Put one in the chuck and the other in the tailstock chuck, slide the tailstock towards the chuck until almost touching check to see if they are point to point,if not the bed has some wear. The first 8-12" is what gets the most wear, not a deal breaker just be aware of the fact. I have a detailed method of checking for run out but I will need to locate it. This site has 118 publications on the south bend lathe http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1617&tab=3 |
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Quoted: A drill press is going to make it more difficult to drill them perfectly concentric... I like the little clamp that diversified machine includes with their kits, it lets you center up on a drill press without much difficulty. Pretty easy to make one as well. I would also like to get a lathe, but a drill press was all-around more useful to someone who doesn't do metal working (I use mine for a lot of other things) and also much less expensive. Somewhat locally there is a guy selling a 10x22 grizzly g0602 for $1500, but it comes with a large toolbox it is mounted to and a fair amount of tooling. Does that seem like a capable mini lathe for most things silencer related? I'm a near total novice so it would be as much an educational endeavor as anything else. I feel like if I bought something too limited I may never use it, but I don't want to get into anything bigger than a benchtop. I know it's not the deal of the century but the toolbox alone is a few hundred bucks, nevermind any tooling. |
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If you want to do threading a quick change box is what you want, I have a light 10" 45" bed, SB lathe with a quick change box and it makes threading a breeze. I also have a mini lathe that has gears that need to be changed for different threads. I have never used it for threading. As for spindle diameter, my 10" only has about 3/4", you are not going to get much larger until the lathe gets very large (12"+). I have used a steady rest for internal threading of tubes. You will need a threading gauge that mounts on the carriage and engages the lead screw. Look for lathes with some tooling included, that can add up to more than the purchase price real fast. I paid $90.00 just for the threading gauge which was missing on mine. Do a search for SB lathes, you might be able to find a manual on how to operate one. When you do go to see one for sale try and bring two pointed pieces of 1/2" rod. Put one in the chuck and the other in the tailstock chuck, slide the tailstock towards the chuck until almost touching check to see if they are point to point,if not the bed has some wear. The first 8-12" is what gets the most wear, not a deal breaker just be aware of the fact. I have a detailed method of checking for run out but I will need to locate it. This site has 118 publications on the south bend lathe http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1617&tab=3 Quoted:
Quoted:
Good thread OP, I've just submitted my first two Form 1s in the past couple weeks and I've been wondering about the lathe idea myself. Any of you guys have recommendations on how to start learning what I'd need out of a small lathe? I'm in same boat as OP, baffles/cups would be cool, and eventually the other stuff like threading. I'm in DFW so there's a big, active Craigslist market and I see some pretty large old lathes for a grand or two out there. With my limited knowledge, I think South Bend is supposed to be a good one with access to parts and a solid online knowledge base. I guess the first and most important question is what would you guys roughly budget as a starting-from-scratch setup that's good for working on gun stuff like this? As for spindle diameter, my 10" only has about 3/4", you are not going to get much larger until the lathe gets very large (12"+). I have used a steady rest for internal threading of tubes. You will need a threading gauge that mounts on the carriage and engages the lead screw. Look for lathes with some tooling included, that can add up to more than the purchase price real fast. I paid $90.00 just for the threading gauge which was missing on mine. Do a search for SB lathes, you might be able to find a manual on how to operate one. When you do go to see one for sale try and bring two pointed pieces of 1/2" rod. Put one in the chuck and the other in the tailstock chuck, slide the tailstock towards the chuck until almost touching check to see if they are point to point,if not the bed has some wear. The first 8-12" is what gets the most wear, not a deal breaker just be aware of the fact. I have a detailed method of checking for run out but I will need to locate it. This site has 118 publications on the south bend lathe http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1617&tab=3 Looks like a huge rabbit hole, but man it'd be nice to be able to turn out my own stuff rather than relying on places that might close down shop any time with no notice. |
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Prices can be all over the place. Especially with different locales. SB 9s are grossly overpriced here. My first lathe was an Atlas 618. I got it for $400 and added about $1000 to it. This included a new motor, QCTP, tooling, steady rest, etc. Once I got a larger lathe, I sold the Atlas and bought a mill. Do some more research and get as much as you can afford. Quoted:you are not going to get much larger until the lathe gets very large (12"+).
Not exactly true. There are several available with larger spindle bores. I believe the SB 10L has a 1.5" through bore. There's a newer chicom lathe that also has a 1.5" spindle. bring two pointed pieces of 1/2" rod. Put one in the chuck and the other in the tailstock chuck, slide the tailstock towards the chuck until almost touching check to see if they are point to point,if not the bed has some wear. You're making too many assumptions with this method. What if the tailstock isn't aligned properly? Using a test bar, on an aligned tailstock, with an indicator in the toolpost is a reliable test. |
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Quoted:
If you want to do threading a quick change box is what you want, I have a light 10" 45" bed, SB lathe with a quick change box and it makes threading a breeze. I also have a mini lathe that has gears that need to be changed for different threads. I have never used it for threading. On that point, the 10" gear change Atlas machines are readily capable of metric threading, a worthwhile consideration. The flat ways and light weight of the machines are a little bit of a drawback, but overall the 10F series are a great smaller machine for the hobbyist/amateur, and they are very well supported in used, NOS and new reproduction/aftermarket parts. Yes, just about any machine can be adapted to cut metric threads, but the Atlas 10" lathes came with the gears & chart to do it, and it's quicker & easier than setting up for metric on most other machines, unless you can afford a $20K+ Hardinge HLV-H E/M. Quoted:
As for spindle diameter, my 10" only has about 3/4", you are not going to get much larger until the lathe gets very large (12"+). Quoted:You will need a threading gauge that mounts on the carriage and engages the lead screw. Quoted:
When you do go to see one for sale try and bring two pointed pieces of 1/2" rod. Put one in the chuck and the other in the tailstock chuck, slide the tailstock towards the chuck until almost touching check to see if they are point to point,if not the bed has some wear. |
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The machine it's self is the cheap part.....the tooling, extra chuck(s) steady rest, QCTP, ect..... is what will get ya. lol
Look around for used machines, sometimes you can come across one for relatively cheap but often with a but load of tooling which is where you really save money. Depends what type of person you are. If you take pride in doing it yourself there is nothing more rewarding. If your trying to do it to save money then well.....yeah probably going to be upset in the end. I will say they come in handy to make yourself lots of odds and ends, tools, ect... Making your own muzzle devices saves a ton as well. Those can get pricey in a hurry. also pistol and SBR barrels are easy to do if you upgrade to a large enough 4 jaw. but I will agree getting something that has a larger spindle bore would allow you a lot more capabilities. my machine only allows .780" through the spindle and the stock 3 jaw was right at 3/4" going to a 5" 4 jaw allowed me to do ~5" worth of large diameter projects (aka tubes) on the back side of the jaws, but still had to use a steady rest to thread my tube, which was an exercise of frustration getting it dialed in with a 4 jaw on the back side and 3 jaw on the thread end. 
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