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Posted: 3/18/2013 6:53:41 PM EDT
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I've been concerned for a while about the amount of space between the gas block and the stock cap. The gap is about a 1/2cm in size. It doesn't seem to be causing issues, other than being unsightly. This is a manually-operated Mini-14 (sometimes called BOA - Bolt-Action Only) and it has no gas ports, etc.
Not a fantastic picture as I didn't have a tripod or good lighting available. Click to enlarge. 
Thanks. |
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I'd say your gas block screws are loose and it is working itself forward due to recoil. I'm not sure exactly how the gas block is retained to the barrel on the manual mini's but on a semi there is a bushing that fits in a hole in the gas block and into the piston and the barrel gas port is counterbored and that keeps the gas block from moving fore and aft along with the screws. Maybe something is amiss inside. I'd check to see if the screws are tight or not. If they are not then I'd push it back and tighten them up with some locktite.
I also notice there's a pin or something on the gas block just above the sling swivel, is that a set screw or pin to retain a dummy gas piston? |
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I've moved it and it now fits almost flush with the stock cap. It seems to be an improvement, although it now only fits certain stocks.
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I also notice there's a pin or something on the gas block just above the sling swivel, is that a set screw or pin to retain a dummy gas piston? That's a retention screw for the Accu-Strut. |
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I've moved it and it now fits almost flush with the stock cap. It seems to be an improvement, although it now only fits certain stocks. Quoted:
I also notice there's a pin or something on the gas block just above the sling swivel, is that a set screw or pin to retain a dummy gas piston? That's a retention screw for the Accu-Strut. Did you completely remove the gas block or just loosen it and slid it back? I'm curious on how this is just retained by screws and the clamping action or if there's something else involved. |
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Did you completely remove the gas block or just loosen it and slid it back? I'm curious on how this is just retained by screws and the clamping action or if there's something else involved. I slid it backwards. It went off for some work a while ago and the gas block was removed during that, but I've not fully removed it since. It is highly likely that the only retention is via the screws. Hopefully it won't move as it's torqued down correctly and would also have to overcome the Accu-Strut to move forwards. If you're interested in the internals of the rifle, I could take a few pictures, although not of the inner section of the gas block since it is now fitted. Supposedly Bill Ruger was sympathetic towards our legal situation in the UK and decided to have some UK legal handguns and Mini-14s produced. The rifles aren't particularly interesting, although we did get what might be rather unusual Government Barrel (GB) variations. When Bill Ruger died, the company soon ceased making further UK specific products. |
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If you're interested in the internals of the rifle, I could take a few pictures, although not of the inner section of the gas block since it is now fitted. Supposedly Bill Ruger was sympathetic towards our legal situation in the UK and decided to have some UK legal handguns and Mini-14s produced. The rifles aren't particularly interesting, although we did get what might be rather unusual Government Barrel (GB) variations. When Bill Ruger died, the company soon ceased making further UK specific products.
If you have time I would be curious what the differences are like in the op rod if it has the hole for a piston or if there is a piston on the gas block. I'm guessing they didn't make them so they could be readily convertible back to sem-auto by just drilling a hole in the barrel or some other easy conversion. |
| The gas block is retained by the screws AND a gas bushing that limits the amount of gas that flows from the barrel into the gas system. I can see where you might be able to move the gas block to the rear by a very small amount but you are limited by the gas bushing. That gap has always been on the Mini 14's. It allows for expansion when the barrel heats up. I think there are some accuracy issues with the Mini's if you have the bushing in a bind but that is usually if the bushing is in a sideways bind and not straight to the rear bind. Keep that in mind if you move the block rearward. kwg |
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The gas block is retained by the screws AND a gas bushing that limits the amount of gas that flows from the barrel into the gas system. I can see where you might be able to move the gas block to the rear by a very small amount but you are limited by the gas bushing. That gap has always been on the Mini 14's. It allows for expansion when the barrel heats up. I think there are some accuracy issues with the Mini's if you have the bushing in a bind but that is usually if the bushing is in a sideways bind and not straight to the rear bind. Keep that in mind if you move the block rearward. kwg The OP is from the UK and the Mini-14 in question is a bolt action type, i.e. no gas system. This rifle is a magazine fed single shot. We are familiar with the gas operated Mini-14 but as this is an export model I was curious how it was set up. |
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If you have time I would be curious what the differences are like in the op rod if it has the hole for a piston or if there is a piston on the gas block. I'm guessing they didn't make them so they could be readily convertible back to sem-auto by just drilling a hole in the barrel or some other easy conversion. Here are some pictures (click to enlarge): Working parts: 
Op-rod: 
Gas block: 
Mini-14 alongside Saiga UK-legal AK: 
Mini-14: 
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I fired about 40rnds through it today and it caused the gas block to move forwards. Not good.
All the bolts were torqued down to the recommended levels, plus it has the Accu-Strut in front of the gas block. I need to check whether any of the bolts have come lose. Retention might prove to be interesting if this is a recurring problem. Quoted:
Anaxes, Thanks for sharing. That answers my question on how they did it. No piston or cylinder there. Nice looking rig there. Did you move the front sight forward to clear the strut? Is your receiver marked Ranch Rifle as well? No problem. Yes, the sight/lug was moved forwards. The increased sight radius is nice, although the blade is a little thick for precise work. Yes, marked Ranch rifle. |
| Keeping in mind that there should be some fore-and-aft room, say at least 1/16" between the end of the stock fore-end and the rearmost surface of the faux gas block, and also similar for hand guard both fore and aft, I would remove the faux gas block, and then, using a sharp center punch, make a number of rows of Dots on the unseen, inner surface of both Faux gas block and its' cap. The slightly upset metal should give you enough "gription" for the assembly to be retained in the desired spot. I would also strongly suggest using new fasteners, and torqueing them down properly, while maintaining equal gaps between block and cap on both sides. This might mean a bit of fitting work to some stocks, so try them all first to get a feel for which, if any, stocks will need to be fitted once you have located the faux gas block assy in its desired place. |
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The picture of the gas block is disturbing - it was born without private parts! I wonder if a spot on the barrel could be dimpled, so a set screw can be used to limit the gas block's movement? If the procedure I suggested above for some reason does not work, then I would do this. The reason for trying my procedure first is that is easily and inexpensively done by the owner. While some owners might be able to perform your suggested procedure, many will have to have it done by a gunsmith, with resulting expense. |
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