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9/2/2013 11:39:06 PM EDT
I’ve still got a lot of learning to do on this tool, but I’m not starting flat-footed- my dad was a gunsmith and we owned a gunshop when I was growing up. I got active in this site a while back when I decided to start building my own AR’s, then quickly decided I needed (OK wanted) to be able to build from 80% (or 0%) receivers. Anyway, I just picked this up for $2500 and like most everyone else on here, I was just excited to share it with others who would appreciate it (my wife tries to give a shit, but just can't). I feel pretty good about the deal I made but have nothing to go on but my gut. I know all the tooling would have cost me a hell of a lot more than the machine, and the machine is pretty worthless without the tooling.

I’m sure some will want to tell me how dumb I was to buy a P.I.A.- Smithy combo unit instead of separate, 3 phase 440volt , 1,800 lb, Bridgeport mill and lathe, but I think those folks miss the point of a small 120volt combo machine like this. First rule of a gunfight-> have a gun. First rule of gun-machining-> possess and know how to run a machine. My dad likes to tell the story of the native guy in the jungle in WWII who reproduced a 1911 using only a hand file... So this is where I start, and it's the only place I can start.

With that in mind, at $2500 how did I do?

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
(From Craigslist ad locally) Smithy CB-1239  Lathe/Vertical Mill 120V, single phase

On factory stand, excellent condition, used only 5 months new receipted $8,100 (not including additional tools) original invoice for inspection, operator’s manual.

Includes:
3-jaw chuck
4-jaw chuck (brand new)
Gunsmith attachments (x2- New)
Reamer holders (x4- New)
Jacobs Chuck Arbor-New
Jacobs Chucks (x2-New)
Live Center-New
Dead Center- New
Work Vice( x2)
123 blocks
V-blocks

Additional Tooling Included (+/- $4,000 invested)

Vertex 8” rotary Table- New
Vertex Dividing Head-New
Angle Plate-New
Little Giant Cooling System-New
Comparator Stand (granite) –New
Indicators (3x): 1x Starrett, 1x Mitutoyo, 1x china
Indicator Holders (4x): - 1x Indico Universal Holder, 1x Starrett Magnetic Indicator Holder,  1x Mitutoyo Magnetic, 1x china magnetic
Parallel sets (2x)
Fly Cutter Set- New
Boring Bars
Keyway cutters-New
Assorted End mills (10-20)
Assorted lathe cutting tools (20-30)
Set of Step Blocks and clamps-New
Machinist Jacks- New
Criterion 3” boring head-New
12” Arbor Press with heavy duty stand
























9/3/2013 3:31:31 AM EDT
[#1]
The tooling alone is worth what you paid.
My only thought is a fair amount of the tooling is too large for the Smithy, more for dedicated machines like a Bridgeport and such.
You had better let me hang on to that stuff for you
Congrats! You got a free machine with it.
9/3/2013 6:26:00 AM EDT
[#2]
With that in mind, at $2500 how did I do?

View Quote


I think you did great.

Damn that's a lot of equipment for $2500...
9/3/2013 9:07:45 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote History


I think you did great.

Damn that's a lot of equipment for $2500...
View Quote



OK great- feels good to hear that. That was my instinct too, so I just jumped on it. but I usually apply better due diligence when making such a large purchase. I knew enough to know that when you buy a machine, even if you get it really cheap, it's a boat anchor without the tooling, and the more boxes and drawers this guy opened for me the more I realized this was destiny!!

I think the best part of the deal is having met the seller himself. Medical issues keep him from being able to really operate this machine safely anymore, but he is a fellow mad scientist with several patents and a sharp mind for innovation: Vietnam combat aircraft maintenance , career architect, steam engine innovator, bronze casting artist- patented a helicopter transportable 1-man fire engine (you can kinda see it in some of the pics). These are the type of guys I grew up having around, (they type of guys who are probably reading this thread) and it's nice to have a guy like that around me now that I live so far away from my family.

I know the Smithy combo probably gets a lot of smirks from the pros here, but I'm just happy to be in the game. I look forward to hearing from you all as I start moving forward with specific projects.
9/3/2013 6:12:02 PM EDT
[#4]
I for one, am jealous!
9/4/2013 4:35:29 AM EDT
[#5]
Even without a machine you got a heck of deal for $2500 (all the extra tools are worth that and more).

You’ll soon learn any limitation the machine might have, how to work around some of them, and whether or not you even need/want a larger, separate lathe & mill. I learned and did a lot of work with a 10x24” Atlas lathe, the knowledge transferred to a larger lathe when the time came.

You did OK
9/9/2013 1:05:55 PM EDT
[#6]
You know you did extremely well and are just rubbing our faces in it!

Congratulations on a bigtime WIN!!!!!
9/9/2013 1:58:09 PM EDT
[#7]
Wasn't really SURE. I've heard of and seen similar machines go as low as $1500, (although in retrospect, probably the smaller benchtop models) and just making a S.W.A.G. that the tooling was worth-while. I usually study the hell out of something before I pull the trigger on it, and just jumped on this. I was afraid I'd get here and everyone would tell me the that particular model was junk or something. I knew Smithy wasn't Bridgeport, but figured it's a long standing American company and has to be better than Harbour Freight class.

I THOUGHT I had made the right call, but it's always nice to have others confirm it. And Yeah, I got tired of telling my wife what a great deal we just made and having her look at me like I just broke something, and had to tell SOMEONE .

Now I'm taking a 4-day weekend next week to try and move this thing over to my shop. Any guidance on this???

Machine is just over 6ft long, by 2ft wide, and weighs around 1200lbs. I think I have a pretty good plan, it involves taking it off it's OEM stand with a cherry picker bolting it to 50" oak 3"x8" planks, or steel channel iron (perpendicular so that it has a 50" wide base). Attaching the wheels pictured below on the corners- (I bought seven of these from the same guy for  an extra $100- used by the Air Force for moving bombs and stuff). winching it up on a flatbed, (maybe removing the wheels) hauling it down about 5 miles of bumpy dirt road to the pavement, backing it up to my double shop door (60" opening) on my very sloped driveway, chain hoisting it off the trailer and into the shop- pick up again with cherry picker, set on OEM stand.

What am I missing??


9/9/2013 2:28:18 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote History
Quoted:
You know you did extremely well and are just rubbing our faces in it!

Congratulations on a bigtime WIN!!!!!
View Quote

9/9/2013 4:12:26 PM EDT
[#9]
How to move it?
How many friends owe you money?

An engine hoist, straps, trailer and a few steel pins.
9/9/2013 5:32:46 PM EDT
[#10]
I'd say that's a damn good score.
9/9/2013 7:36:58 PM EDT
[#11]
That's a pretty nice lathe, with a <meh> mill/drill attachment, and a superb deal with all that tooling.  

Those small machines tend to have very small through-bores on the spindle.  You'll be able to do just about anything you could want with that much room between centers, except for maybe trying to add on a 5C collet chuck, due to the smaller spindle bore.  39 inches is plenty of room to do almost any barrel work you can think of, though the relatively light frame will mean you need to learn to take light cuts.

As a mill, it'll let you start cutting and learning, but is too small for much in the way of serious work.  The xy-table being mounted on the cross slide really, really restricts your x travel, and limits your y travel to the traverse of the cross slide.  The z axis has a big hard limit, which may well leave you searching for ways to get the work under the mill head and still hold it tight and true that turn out to be difficult, if not insolvable.

I too started out on a 3-in-1 smaller than that one, and it did pretty good as long as I kept the jobs small, and the cuts light.  Even after I upgraded, I kept the 3-in-1 around for many years as an auxiliary machine to do light threading and such, though I eventually sold it to clear out some space in my shop.
9/9/2013 9:15:49 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote History
Quoted:
How to move it?
How many friends owe you money?

An engine hoist, straps, trailer and a few steel pins.
View Quote


Friends-----------> check.
Engine Hoist---->check.
Straps------------> check.
Trailer------------> check.
steel pins--------> not on my radar.. What do you mean by steel pins? What type of pins are you meaning?, how do you invision me using these pins?

I'd been planning on mounting some oak timber cross members on it (as pictured below) and attaching some HEAVY DUTY ordinance cart wheels (as pictured above)- does this make sense to everyone or should I go a different direction with it?

(also thanks Circuit for the insight. I plan on playing within my means with this thing and picking my early projects based on the new skill it would take to do it. I'll be enrolling in a community college class this coming spring, and I have a few mentors who'll work with me in the meantime. Beats the heck out of the $20 harbor freight bench-top drill press I have now and I've managed some pretty cool projects with it.

9/9/2013 9:45:37 PM EDT
[#13]
gonna have to get rid of some stuff and give my shop a full make-over (and obvious cleaning). Built this yesterday- my tool grinder stand (still need green stones, some guards,  rests, jig mounts- but you get the jist)

can't wait for my days off.

9/9/2013 10:15:33 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote History
Quoted: Those small machines tend to have very small through-bores on the spindle.  You'll be able to do just about anything you could want with that much room between centers, except for maybe trying to add on a 5C collet chuck, due to the smaller spindle bore.  39 inches is plenty of room to do almost any barrel work you can think of, though the relatively light frame will mean you need to learn to take light cuts..
View Quote


I thought for sure I saw a collet chuck and definitely saw a bunch of collets, in that pile of tools, would it be a 3c collet chuck (had to look it up)? I take it just smaller, not as useful?  The spindle bore is 1.5" what's that let me pass through, about 1"?
9/10/2013 3:11:00 AM EDT
[#15]
I have a Smithy Granite 1340 that I just recently moved from San Antonio, TX to Woodbridge, VA.  I used an engine hoist with 2 separate chains and 4 pin shackles to attach to the handles on the Smithy for moving it, along with an engine leveler chain.  Once it was in the air, I used 2 furniture dollies to set the Smithy down on, then attached ratchet straps to keep it tight to the Smithy.  It was easy to roll around then.  

Zach
9/10/2013 4:26:17 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote History
Quoted:
The tooling alone is worth what you paid.
My only thought is a fair amount of the tooling is too large for the Smithy, more for dedicated machines like a Bridgeport and such.
You had better let me hang on to that stuff for you
Congrats! You got a free machine with it.
View Quote

This ^^^

The tooling is worth what you paid so you didn't come out too bad on the deal. But, take this from somebody who has run a smithy for several months & currently owns real, American made, solid machines. A smithy is NOT cut out for gunsmith work. The rotating/height adjusting mill-head is the most vulnerable part. It is extremely susceptible to chatter simply for the fact that it isn't rigid enough. I went from being an occasional machine user to using a smithy in the middle-east for 6 months, to coming home and buying a real knee-mill and lathe, there is NO comparison between the 2. I though the chatter was bad but manageable when I was running the smithy but when I got home and found out what the chatter, err, lack of chatter, is like on a solid piece of equipment I decided the only way I will EVER have one of those in my shop is if I am paid to take it or I got it at such a good deal I think I can make a profit by flipping it to the next sucker down the line.

I'm not saying this to poo on your purchase, it was a good purchase, but I would highly suggest parting it out and moving some of it (the machine mostly) along to more of a hobby type person that doesn't know any better. If you keep the tooling you can use and sell the rest piece-meal you should get all your money back and then some. Take that money and put it towards a real machine. I bought my 1978 Index knee mill for $2000 with tooling, a VFD, & 3-axis DRO on it. I bought my 1972 SouthBend lathe for $350 with some tooling and added about $900 in tooling to it.
9/10/2013 7:04:27 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote History
I'm not saying this to poo on your purchase, it was a good purchase, but
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Quote History
I'm not saying this to poo on your purchase, it was a good purchase, but

I would highly suggest parting it out and moving some of it (the machine mostly) along to more of a hobby type person that doesn't know any better.


One step ahead of you!  That's me- I'm the hobby-type person who doesn't know any better, I've moved it on to me.

 take this from somebody who has run a smithy for several months & currently owns real, American made, solid machines. A smithy is NOT cut out for gunsmith work.    

If you keep the tooling you can use and sell the rest piece-meal you should get all your money back and then some. Take that money and put it towards a real machine. I bought my 1978 Index knee mill for $2000 with tooling, a VFD, & 3-axis DRO on it. I bought my 1972 SouthBend lathe for $350 with some tooling and added about $900 in tooling to it.


YES--THIS----, I'M FOLLOWING YOUR LEAD EXACTLY!

I addressed this in the first paragraph of my first post. Because every single thread I've ever read about a small lathe/mill combo like this one-  has a list of testimonials from guys that all go about the same-

"I hate to crap on your machine, but"......."I started out with one of these..."....."figured out they suck because....it does this... and can't do this......"...."so I sold it and moved onto real machine, and could never go back"

right now I can only afford/ lift / move / house/ fit/  power / tool/  operate this machine and no other. I look forward to the day I can join the Usta Own a Smithy Combo Club.





9/10/2013 7:25:03 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote History
Quoted:
I thought for sure I saw a collet chuck and definitely saw a bunch of collets, in that pile of tools, would it be a 3c collet chuck (had to look it up)? I take it just smaller, not as useful?  The spindle bore is 1.5" what's that let me pass through, about 1"?
View Quote


I didn't see a collet chuck for that lathe in your pics, but maybe I missed it.  Your collet set might be for the dividing head, not for the lathe - my divider is equipped with a 5C collet chuck, for instance.

That's a much bigger spindle bore than I was expecting on a 3-in-1.  My old 3-in-1 was bout .8" spindle bore, while my full sized lathe is close to 2" (have to go remeasure to be exact).  The measurement which matters is the ID of the spindle bore - so if you were giving the outside spindle measurement as 1.5", the bore is probably about 1.2 or so.  Which is still big enough to do a lot of useful work.  If the actual bore is 1.5" that's amazing.
9/10/2013 7:46:37 AM EDT
[#19]
just taking that number from the operators manual.... Not sure how that applies to the reality of the usable bore.


9/13/2013 4:06:17 PM EDT
[#20]
Quoted:
I'm not saying this to poo on your purchase, it was a good purchase, but
View Quote

I would highly suggest parting it out and moving some of it (the machine mostly) along to more of a hobby type person that doesn't know any better.
View Quote


One step ahead of you!  That's me- I'm the hobby-type person who doesn't know any better, I've moved it on to me.

 take this from somebody who has run a smithy for several months & currently owns real, American made, solid machines. A smithy is NOT cut out for gunsmith work.    
View Quote

If you keep the tooling you can use and sell the rest piece-meal you should get all your money back and then some. Take that money and put it towards a real machine. I bought my 1978 Index knee mill for $2000 with tooling, a VFD, & 3-axis DRO on it. I bought my 1972 SouthBend lathe for $350 with some tooling and added about $900 in tooling to it.
View Quote


YES--THIS----, I'M FOLLOWING YOUR LEAD EXACTLY!

I addressed this in the first paragraph of my first post. Because every single thread I've ever read about a small lathe/mill combo like this one-  has a list of testimonials from guys that all go about the same-

"I hate to crap on your machine, but"......."I started out with one of these..."....."figured out they suck because....it does this... and can't do this......"...."so I sold it and moved onto real machine, and could never go back"

right now I can only afford/ lift / move / house/ fit/  power / tool/  operate this machine and no other. I look forward to the day I can join the Usta Own a Smithy Combo Club.

View Quote

I don't think you are following my lead... I never have and never will own a combo machine...

There, got that out of the way...

My post was meant in the most respectful way. Your OP did not clarify that you don't have the room to house dedicated machines, only that this was your starting point. My point isn't that the machines are junk, so much as the fact that the great deal you got on that machine can be taken advantage of to buy better quality machines with little financial impact to you... For the same amount of money as you could sell that machine and some of that tooling you can turn around and get a real lathe and mill. So financial impact is a moot point. The other point is space. I didn't think I could fit a full-size mill and lathe either. But I did. I was quite shocked at how well my lathe and mill tucked into the corner of my garage. My wife can still park her car inside even...

On to my final note. You mentioned you want this as a learning/starting point. You will certainly learn a lot with this machine. But it will teach you bad habits and maybe even crush your confidence after you ruin hundreds of dollars worth of tooling due to chatter, backlash, and other problems. I'm only telling you this because I've been there. We kept a VERY large supply of spare parts on hand for the Smithy because they routinely break parts, most notably the QCTP nut/bolt thing is a ridiculous design and has a tendency to break, the key that drives the auto-feed crosslide shears easily and it's a PITA to tear the cross-slide apart to change out, there are plastic bearings, bearing retainers, and bevel gears (the main drive gears for the mill-head) in the mill-head that wear out quickly even with light use. The mill-head doesn't reliably lock in position so there is a change, that while milling it will "catch" and the head will walk the tool right across your part breaking the took and VERY DEEPLY gouging your workpiece. I have personally witnessed every single one of these problems on a Smithy. Our group has nearly 20 of them most in the middle-east serving SOF soldiers. The only reason was a true space constraint of 8 X 4 max footprint because it's in a shipping container. If your space constraint truly is that small, I understand, but if there is any possible way you can make a bit more room, try your best.

I learned to machine on Bridgeports and higher-quality import lathes. Those machines are fine, and teach you the right techniques. Without the knowledge of those proper techniques, it's very difficult to operate a junky import. Sometimes you won't know what you are doing wrong because it's hard to diagnose if you even are doing something wrong when the nature of the machine is to eat tooling, chatter to the point that it shakes the ground, and you will chase your tail trying to correct things. However, approaching that with the knowledge and background gained from running true machines you will have a better understanding and can hopefully save yourself some dough. I ate several thousand dollars in tooling (broken cutters mostly) in the 6 months I ran the Smithy due to the inherent nature of it; had that been out of my own pocket I wouldn't have been running a machine like that. I now run used US made for the same cost as some of the import stuff and I save a lot on tooling. It's hard to explain to a beginner, but take the word from all the experienced users, there is a very large noticeable difference...

Once again, I say this not to poo on your purchase, only trying to give you advice. If I were in your situation I would part that sucker out, do everything possible to make space in my garage and bring in some real stuff. Until then I DEFINITELY wouldn't be touching somebody else's guns. Poor surface finish and lots of "oh shits" when using a Smithy... just my opinion though, take it for what  you paid for it.

ETA, to give a little credit the lathe function of the Smithy is acceptable in most respects. It will do the job. The mill function is the part that is very lacking and not worth more than a drill-press.
ETA2, I measured the footprint of my full-size mill and smaller lathe. Mill is 4' deep and 5'6" wide, lathe is 2' deep X 4' wide... just food for thought...
9/13/2013 5:42:12 PM EDT
[#21]
10-4, I get you, and didn't mean for my previous post to come across as defensive as it may have sounded- don't read this one as anything other than thankful for you taking the time to give your input and share your wisdom.  

My dad was a gunsmith while I was growing up, he started small and ended up with Bridgeport and South Bend machines- So I do already have some exposure to many of the issues you bring up. He helped me make a threaded screw when I was 10 with a tiny little watchmaking lathe, and that experience is what brings me to being in this conversation with you today.  I intend to do work within the sideboards of my own capability, and within the sideboards of the machines capability. I don't anticipate working on other peoples guns anytime soon, if ever. - I've got some simple projects outside of the gun world that I need to do first, and plan to start milling some 80% receivers- I just watched a guy on youtube do one of these with a harbor freight drill press, and I'm pretty confident I can pull it off with the Smithy. If my ambitions run up against my capacity, I'll get the tools I need to go to the next level.

I'm not saying your argument about bigger, American standard tools was wrong- My point was that there is a place in this world for a machine like this, and right now I'm in that place. ARFCOM is full of folks telling other folks to not waste their time and money on that (Deltron, Tasco, Central Machinery, Kia) and to save up their money for a (Noveske, Trijicon, Bridgeport, Cadillac). It's generally good advice, but the world would grind to a hault without the former group.

9/15/2013 2:11:05 PM EDT
[#22]
I completely understand where you are coming from.  I'm active duty military and moving every 3 to 4 years with a dedicated lathe and/or mill would be very cost prohibitive to me.  Especially since I typically rent, that's why I went for the Smithy, the size/weight concerns for me.  It does what I need it to, maybe not as fast as a dedicated unit, but it works.

Zach
9/19/2013 6:02:51 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote History
Quoted:
I'm not saying your argument about bigger, American standard tools was wrong- My point was that there is a place in this world for a machine like this, and right now I'm in that place. ARFCOM is full of folks telling other folks to not waste their time and money on that (Deltron, Tasco, Central Machinery, Kia) and to save up their money for a (Noveske, Trijicon, Bridgeport, Cadillac). It's generally good advice, but the world would grind to a hault without the former group.

View Quote

Roger that... you seem to be pretty educated. I just wanted to give my insight into the machines since I've been there, and ran both of them...
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