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Posted: 4/11/2012 10:09:12 AM EDT
| I am needing to resize the neck on 1,000 pcs. of LC pulldown brass. Can anyone tell me how to go about doing this. Thanks. |
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1st, are you planning to shoot these in an AR or a bolt gun? If an AR, or any semi-auto, you need to full length resize them to ensure proper feeding. As they sound like they are unfired, the easiest thing to do is just run them through your resizing die the same as if you'd fired them. If you're going to use them in a single bolt gun where these cases will only be used in that gun, then you could use any of a number of manufacturer's neck sizing dies. Here is a link to a thread comparing RCBS and Lee .223 neck sizing dies you might find interesting. |
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Quoted:
Remove the decapping pin from your FL die, lube and size. Primer will not be removed. Then either wipe off lube with a rag, or tumble loaded rounds to remove the lube. So your talking about just removing the pin and not the expanding ball? Hadn't thought of that. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Remove the decapping pin from your FL die, lube and size. Primer will not be removed. Then either wipe off lube with a rag, or tumble loaded rounds to remove the lube. So your talking about just removing the pin and not the expanding ball? Hadn't thought of that. Sometimes it's that easy.  |
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Quoted:
The brass is primed and I will be shooting then in a AR.Thanks. If this brass is directly from the disassembly operation, and you're planning to neck size the cases without touching the shoulders, you'd be wise to check the case headspace anyway to make sure the brass will chamber. The shoulders may have been pulled out, increasing the case length. You will get away with neck sizing brass for an AR for one or two reloads. The case bodies will become more work hardened with each reload, stop springing back, and stick in the chamber. |
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If you want to just check headspace and go fast, the Instant Indicator will help you go through batches and actually measure the shoulder datum.
If you just want sanity check, the Wilson and Lyman gages are fine. The old Stoney Point gage is now marketed under Hornaday and uses your caliper to measure the shoulder datum. The Lyman gage will do the trick and is usually less than $20 USD. It can spot a bulged base and sort of mimics a chamber. Wilson does this too. The other gages will not spot the other dimensions. I think a serious reloader should have all of the different types for different reasons. Just getting started, use the Lyman and get going..... |
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I would do it one of these two ways because lube is not needed
Redding full length S die with a TiN 0.245" bushing. Give the shoulder a slight bump. No lube needed if you're simply using it to fix brass. Of course if you were really resizing, you'd need lube. or Lee Collet neck die. Skip the case gauge and just get the Hornady comparator set. |
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I recommend the Stoney Point/Hornady or Sinclair type that uses a caliper to get a dimension, instead the go/no go indication from a drop in gage. Much more useful for setting up a sizer die to produce brass sized to suit each requirement.
I do not recommend the Lyman drop in gage. This gage and the Wilson gage produce brass with the shoulders set to 0.008 inches of cartridge headspace. That's not the problem with them, however, they are cut too small to accept rims on .223 Rem brass that run to 0.378 inch maximum. This causes false indications of long cases. By the way, anytime this condition occurs after sizing with the die set up per instructions, first examine the rim for dings and burrs and remove the defects with a file. If there are no defects, reverse the case to see if the problem is the rim diameter hanging up in the counterbore. |
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