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Posted: 6/12/2010 9:36:05 PM EDT
Thanks for reading! 
I'm at the point in my tinkering where I'd like a nice set of tools - punches (both steel and brass), files, etc. Found a set of nice looking Baker precision files on Midway, steel punches from Starrett, brass punches from Wheeler. I'd also like a nice pick and hook set. Are these quality tools that I can expect years of good use out of, or should I look for/at other brands? If so, which tools are preferred? I'll be doing fitting, trigger work, etc. |
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In general, anything you buy from Brownell's will be top quality tools.
Midway tools are usually good. When it comes to screwdrivers, buy Brownell's Magna-Tip sets, these are the finest made. I recommend the Law Enforcement handles. The large handle is too large for good control and the stubby is just too small. Break a bit and Brownell's will send you a free replacement if you just email them, no need to return the broken bit. Anything made by Starrett is top of the line, but Brownell's replaceable tip punches are also very good and easy to change tips when they bend or break. Files can be bought from Brownell's or jeweler's supply houses. Jewelers use Swiss files which are the best made and have finer cuts. For rough work American pattern files from good hardware stores will do, and again Brownell's sell good ones. Start your files off by using them on brass ONLY. After they start to wear slightly, use them on steel. As above, buy tools as you need them to eliminate spending money on things you won't use often. Since you'll use screwdrivers, vises, and punches more than anything else, buy the best you can in those. |
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Unless you get a discount from Brownell's some other way (law enforcement?), you'll definitely want to get a C&R firearms license for the discount. It's the only way you can afford to shop at Brownells. With the discount, they're often competitive with anyone.
FWIW, I have a set of Brownell's Magna Tips and love them. I wouldn't use anything else on a gun. Their little double ended hammer (brass/plastic) is a must. For punches, I have Starrett, plus a Brownell's punch with interchangeable tips (I primarily use the brass on this one). I also bought some roll pin punches from them. They're really handy. Get some bench blocks, too. I bought the Wheeler scope alignment setup and find it very useful as well. I also have special purpose tools like action wrenches, forearm wrenches, etc. as needed for specific guns. Bought almost all of this stuff at Brownells. |
Thanks everyone for responding. I'm not looking to purchase tools that are beyond my capability to use right now. I'm one of those guys that wants to buy something once, and have it be of very high quality and maintain usefulness for years, as opposed to those who buy cheaper tools at first and then get the better stuff down the road. Just seems silly to me to waste the money buying the cheap stuff, if I'm already planning to get the good stuff ASAP. Practically speaking, the money I'll save by skipping the cheap tool purchases will give me a head start on saving to buy additional high quality tools down the road. 
I'm already liking what I see from the "gunsmithing tools" section @ Brownell's. I'll follow up on this thread w/what I end up purchasing, and how it's working for me. Thanks again to all of you for giving me the good advice I've come to expect from ARFCOM.
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When a file is new, it's very sharp and cuts very well.
Filing steel quickly wears the cutting edges and the file doesn't cut as well. The standard was, start using a new file on brass because it'll cut really well, then after it wears use it until it's worn out on steel. As an experiment, use a new file to file some brass and note how it cuts. Then file some steel for a while. Then try it on brass again. You'll notice that it no longer cuts as well. Also, protect your files by not letting them bump against each other in the tool storage. Some people make up cardboard covers for the files to protect them, but watch out for rust. Other pointers, use chalk on files to help prevent chips from sticking in the cutting surface. This prevents having to stop every couple of strokes to brush and pick the chips out. |
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Quoted:
When a file is new, it's very sharp and cuts very well. Filing steel quickly wears the cutting edges and the file doesn't cut as well. The standard was, start using a new file on brass because it'll cut really well, then after it wears use it until it's worn out on steel. As an experiment, use a new file to file some brass and note how it cuts. Then file some steel for a while. Then try it on brass again. You'll notice that it no longer cuts as well. Also, protect your files by not letting them bump against each other in the tool storage. Some people make up cardboard covers for the files to protect them, but watch out for rust. Other pointers, use chalk on files to help prevent chips from sticking in the cutting surface. This prevents having to stop every couple of strokes to brush and pick the chips out. That makes perfect sense. Thanks for the explanation and tips on use/storage.
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If you can't afford to enroll in a gunsmithing school, at least consider taking some machining classes. Some community colleges and voc-ed centers offer them. The money spent to learn the proper ways to work with metal will go a long way in aiding your ability.
You might also want to use the search function as this has all been covered before. Good luck! |
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Quoted:
If you can't afford to enroll in a gunsmithing school, at least consider taking some machining classes. Some community colleges and voc-ed centers offer them. The money spent to learn the proper ways to work with metal will go a long way in aiding your ability. You might also want to use the search function as this has all been covered before. Good luck! Wow, a lecture on using the search function from someone who's been on the forum for six months. That's awesome! |
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Wow, a lecture on using the search function from someone who's been on the forum for six months. That's awesome! Eh, he's right. I was in a hurry and lazy and didnt read the stickied thread at the top of the forum. I really appreciate the patience and info, and have read a good amount of the Gateway threads since I've had more time. One question - I was warned about storing my files in a way that wouldnt allow them to rub/bump against each other, and also not to let them rust. What's the best way to go about preventing rust on a nice set of files? Press a silicone cloth between my thumb and forefinger, with the file in the cloth? |
| I wipe my files down with a lightly oiled rag after using them and I haven't had any problems yet (the tangs, not the cutting surfaces). I store them laid out in the tool cabinet drawer sitting on top of a silicon cloth. Whether it's right or wrong I couldn't tell you; that's the way I was shown when I was younger by several machinist, gunsmiths and hobbyist and that's what I've been doing. |
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One thing to remember, most files work one way. Dragging it instead of pushing it (for instance) will cause uneccesary wear in no time flat.
I like Simonds, Nicholson makes good stuff too, and I bought a couple sets of really nice swiss files from my local tool rep from Grobet. I've worn a couple out a little bit, but man they are nice to have for small work. Keep 'em clean, keep 'em stored to protect them from rust, use 'em right and they'll last a long time. Not forever, but long enough to make the initial money spent on the good stuff worth it. |
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