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Posted: 2/20/2012 8:18:21 AM EDT
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So im resizing some cases that i recently purchased and im seeing some that are even (not below) with the base of the gauge. Is it ok to use these cases or should i toss them?
Thanks |
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My advice to everyone on this board is to get a full set of Stoney Point gages - Headspace gage, Chamber OAL and Bullet Comparator. Get a dedicated dial indicator to mount the gage.
Case gages are really so much more difficult to use as to not qualify as a substitute for the SP gages. Honestly, about half of the questions on this board (possibly more) would never need to be asked if people had these gages and used them. |
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When I was having some problems setting up my 1200, I was talking to the guys at Dillon. The person I was talking to related that if I'm reloading for ARs that the base of the case should be even with the lower step. Take that for what it's worth. I have had no problems getting it set up to fall between the two steps. That's where all the factory ammunition I've ever tested fell. |
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Quoted:
My advice to everyone on this board is to get a full set of Stoney Point gages - Headspace gage, Chamber OAL and Bullet Comparator. Get a dedicated dial indicator to mount the gage. Case gages are really so much more difficult to use as to not qualify as a substitute for the SP gages. Honestly, about half of the questions on this board (possibly more) would never need to be asked if people had these gages and used them. So do you have any advice as to my question, other than spending more money on more gauges? |
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When I was having some problems setting up my 1200, I was talking to the guys at Dillon. The person I was talking to related that if I'm reloading for ARs that the base of the case should be even with the lower step. Take that for what it's worth. I have had no problems getting it set up to fall between the two steps. That's where all the factory ammunition I've ever tested fell. Thanks for the tip. I have been setting those that are even with the base aside in a different stack. |
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Quoted: Quoted: When I was having some problems setting up my 1200, I was talking to the guys at Dillon. The person I was talking to related that if I'm reloading for ARs that the base of the case should be even with the lower step. Take that for what it's worth. I have had no problems getting it set up to fall between the two steps. That's where all the factory ammunition I've ever tested fell. Thanks for the tip. I have been setting those that are even with the base aside in a different stack. The tech from Dillon was very specific about being even and not below the lower step. I did the same as you and set aside the ones that were even with the lower step when I was setting things up. When I shot them I didn't notice a bit of difference. Of course, your mileage may vary. |
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I noticed that the cut across the gauge is almost exactly the same width as the neck of a case. I have been using a case and sliding it across the gauge inside the cut. If it hits the case I have been keeping it. If it does not I throw it in the scrap pile. All of the ones that are even I have been throwing into a pile of their own.
Your input is greatly appreciated. |
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Quoted:
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My advice to everyone on this board is to get a full set of Stoney Point gages - Headspace gage, Chamber OAL and Bullet Comparator. Get a dedicated dial indicator to mount the gage. Case gages are really so much more difficult to use as to not qualify as a substitute for the SP gages. Honestly, about half of the questions on this board (possibly more) would never need to be asked if people had these gages and used them. So do you have any advice as to my question, other than spending more money on more gauges? My advice is to buy better gages. It is really important to do things right when it comes to reloading. Going cheap does not "pay". If you are getting a lot of variability in the headspace of your sized brass, the very first thing that comes to mind is variable lubrication. What lube are you using? Get a tin of Imperial Sizing die wax. Use it and size a few cases. If the variability persists, you have a problem with variations in temper of your brass. Making the measurements you need is very difficult without the proper gages. You could consider segregating them by size after sizing. Then resizt the long ones. If they're too short (but still within reason), you have no option but to shoot them. Trash them? I'd say no but, then again, I have the gages to work out these bugs. |
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Quoted:
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My advice to everyone on this board is to get a full set of Stoney Point gages - Headspace gage, Chamber OAL and Bullet Comparator. Get a dedicated dial indicator to mount the gage. Case gages are really so much more difficult to use as to not qualify as a substitute for the SP gages. Honestly, about half of the questions on this board (possibly more) would never need to be asked if people had these gages and used them. So do you have any advice as to my question, other than spending more money on more gauges? My advice is to buy better gages. It is really important to do things right when it comes to reloading. Going cheap does not "pay". If you are getting a lot of variability in the headspace of your sized brass, the very first thing that comes to mind is variable lubrication. What lube are you using? Get a tin of Imperial Sizing die wax. Use it and size a few cases. If the variability persists, you have a problem with variations in temper of your brass. Making the measurements you need is very difficult without the proper gages. You could consider segregating them by size after sizing. Then resizt the long ones. If they're too short (but still within reason), you have no option but to shoot them. Trash them? I'd say no but, then again, I have the gages to work out these bugs. The number of cases out of spec that I'm getting per 100 resized is 2 maybe 3. That's the ones below the lowest point on the Dillon case gauge. I have been tossing them out. I don't know of any gauge that can change the fact that the case goes below the lowest point on the Dillon case gauge. I'm using the Lee lube and the die is set to bottom out on the case holder. It could be a variance in the brass temper, I don't really know. All I was asking was if the case is GTG when it is even with the lowest point on the Dillon case gauge. I don't have the time or the funds to purchase the gauges you are recommending. To all others who have responded I also thank you. |
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It makes a difference whether you are loading for a gas gun or something else. The lower level is the SAMMI spec, which means that cases that fit down to there will basically fit in any factory chamber in the world. You don't neccessarily need or want them that small in a bolt gun. You MIGHT if you want to be certain that they will all feed in an AR or M1A or such. I am loading for a Bushmaster M4gery with a 16" barrel. I should have stated that in the OP but failed to do so. 
I have about 300 cases that I have reloaded numerous time using the Lee die set up that I am currently using. I started checking those that I have sitting waiting for the powder and projo. All of them fall between the 2 levels of the Dillon gauge. Some of them are even with the lower part of then gauge. Since I have been using the same lube and resizing process now as before I had the Dillon case gauge I am under the assumption that any of the case that fall even or between the cut out in the Dillon case gauge are good to go. Thank you for the advice. |
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The top of the Dillon gauge is equal to SAAMI minimal chamber length, any thing below the top of the gauge will be shorter than your chamber assuming your chamber meets SAAMI spec for min chamber length, the bottom of the cut is .005" below SAAMI min chamber length and is to short for some rifles but not so much that it will be unsafe.
The best way to use the drop in gauge is to use your calipers with it, take a fired case from your rifle and drop it in the gauge, then take your calipers and see how far the fired case sticks out of the end of the gauge, size the case and measure again, your only wanting a reduction of .003-4" in head space length no matter how deep the case fits in the gauge. The fired brass from my rifles sit .003" above the top of the gauge, after sizing(-.003") the end of the case sits perfectly flush with the end of the gauge, this is the proper way to use a case gauge. I have the Dillon drop-in gauges but don't use them, I use Mo gauges for my 6.8 & 6x45 rifles and have a RCBS precision mic's in .223 & .308 which are also better than the drop in gauges. READ READ ALSO |
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The top of the Dillon gauge is equal to SAAMI minimal chamber length, any thing below the top of the gauge will be shorter than your chamber assuming your chamber meets SAAMI spec for min chamber length, the bottom of the cut is .005" below SAAMI min chamber length and is to short for some rifles but not so much that it will be unsafe. The best way to use the drop in gauge is to use your calipers with it, take a fired case from your rifle and drop it in the gauge, then take your calipers and see how far the fired case sticks out of the end of the gauge, size the case and measure again, your only wanting a reduction of .003-4" in head space length no matter how deep the case fits in the gauge. The fired brass from my rifles sit .003" above the top of the gauge, after sizing(-.003") the end of the case sits perfectly flush with the end of the gauge, this is the proper way to use a case gauge. I have the Dillon drop-in gauges but don't use them, I use Mo gauges for my 6.8 & 6x45 rifles and have a RCBS precision mic's in .223 & .308 which are also better than the drop in gauges. READ READ ALSO That is very good info! Thank you very much. |
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Have you looked at the case rims for burrs or defects? This will cause them to fail the gage test. Look closely too, some of the tinyest burrs will make it fail the gage. ETA–– sorry, misread you post.  I recently bought a big box of brass and I have been sorting it before going ahead with the resizing. I am being overly cautious because this stuff will be part of my SHTF ammo stash. I am positive I have been throwing out some that is usable, but I would rather error on the side of caution than to be sorry later. I didn't consider burrs or defects causing the cases to fail, but I have been tossing out anything that looks questionable. So far the brass has been very good. I have found 3 to 4 split necks and 5 to 6 that have been lower than the lowest level on the Dillon case gauge. Other than that it has been good to go. Thanks for the tips! |
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Adjust your sizing die up or down until the sized case head is between the cuts. Case should be lower than top of gauge. It's best to sort your brass by headstamp, and then size them. Different headstamps will need slightly different sizing die adjustments. I'm using the Lee recommendations on die adjustment. The case holder bottoms out on the die. All of the cases with exception of a few are even with or between the step on the Dillon case gauge. After going back through the ones I tossed aside for the scrap bin, I did notice some of them had different head stamps other than LC. Not many but a few did, Thanks |
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I do use a case gage sometimes but not so much anymore since I size off the shoulder but here is a example of what you are looking for:
Sitting in the case gage you want the rim between the upper and lower cuts: 
And on the top pretty much the same: 
But if you bump the shoulder at a minimum to keep from over working the brass it won't be between these HI\LOW cuts |
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Quoted: Quoted: Adjust your sizing die up or down until the sized case head is between the cuts. Case should be lower than top of gauge. It's best to sort your brass by headstamp, and then size them. Different headstamps will need slightly different sizing die adjustments. I'm using the Lee recommendations on die adjustment. The case holder bottoms out on the die. All of the cases with exception of a few are even with or between the step on the Dillon case gauge. After going back through the ones I tossed aside for the scrap bin, I did notice some of them had different head stamps other than LC. Not many but a few did, Thanks Lee directions for Rough Setting your sizing die. Use the case gauge to set the fine adjustment. Gauge will tell you to raise or lower the sizing die. |
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Adjust your sizing die up or down until the sized case head is between the cuts. Case should be lower than top of gauge. It's best to sort your brass by headstamp, and then size them. Different headstamps will need slightly different sizing die adjustments. I'm using the Lee recommendations on die adjustment. The case holder bottoms out on the die. All of the cases with exception of a few are even with or between the step on the Dillon case gauge. After going back through the ones I tossed aside for the scrap bin, I did notice some of them had different head stamps other than LC. Not many but a few did, Thanks Lee directions for Rough Setting your sizing die. Use the case gauge to set the fine adjustment. Gauge will tell you to raise or lower the sizing die. Thanks for the tips. I have had a few that are above the top of the gauge and there is no way to size beyond my current setting. I see what you and the other guys are saying about the brass variance from head stamp to head stamp. If I start to see a pattern of the brass getting over sized I will sort it by headstamp. As it is I'm only loosing 3 or 4 per hundred due to sizing too much. That's less than the number of cases I'm throwing out for other reasons. 
Thanks again |
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